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  1. #1
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    Question Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Interestingly, I had just exhorted my music theory students to find the common tone when writing 4-part harmony.

    That said, I've been trying some vintage fragrances. With My Sin Eaude Lanvin as the reference, I have been living with two other fragrances that have a similar floral heart, If someone could break this out it would satisfy my curiosity. Those two fragrances are Weil Antilope and Ma Griffe by Carven. The openings couldn't be more different; Carven's asafoetida note with it's foul mercaptan is the strangest, Antilope is more conventionally aldehydic, as is My Sin. Ma Griffe is also distinguished by a cinnamon note at the base.

    The heart to these three is what I would call a deep floral, and on me all three are skin scents at this point. I think I'm smelling rose and ylang-ylang. My Sin also has an anise note (tarragon?). All three have a quality I would call "lotiony", as opposed to powdery.

    Has anyone else smelled all three of these, particularly in short succession. In the spirit of the season I should ask, "Do you smell what I smell?"
    Last edited by jujy54; 23rd December 2011 at 07:04 AM. Reason: title
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    I think I get what you mean, though I haven't smelled all three in quick succession. What you call "lotiony" I think of as a "satiny" texture. I don't know what it is. I hope someone who does will chime in, I'd like to know now, too!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Could that common note be sage?
    I know what you mean about "lotiony" as a smell texture. I couldn't never think of a word for it--friends and family of soapy. I think I use all of these words in way that only makes sense to me. For me "satiny" or "silky" applies to Chanel No. 5. 31 rue Cambon...And don't even let me start on "pebbly" perfumes.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Pebbly, good word. So is satiny. I think in textures, too. Spiky or prickly is another.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Nostalgie, I'm not sure about sage. I keep thinking it's a floral note, but floral plus sage or even tarragon (anisic) is a possibility.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Pebbly, good word. So is satiny. I think in textures, too. Spiky or prickly is another.
    Oh, good ones!

    jujy--I see, it is the floral you are trying to ID. I read the post too quickly. I haven't smelled them in while. I always think of galbanum in Ma Griffe. Now I"m eager to re- test all three.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 9th January 2012 at 09:54 PM.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  7. #7
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    My vote goes to a combo of Muguet and Ylang Ylang, clean and creamy.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Hillaire, muguet, yes, that's there. I think you have solved the mystery, tho I'm also thinking that tarragon may play a role.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    All three definitely have aldehydes. I sampled my vintage Ma Griffe today. After the moss subsided, I was left with aldehydes and gardenia. My Sin is a civet monster, in my recall, which the other two are not.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    rednails, I have the Eau de Lanvin strength of My Sin, and I'm a big civet fan. Don't know why but the floral notes dominate for me, the civet being an undertone rather than an overtone. You are right about aldehydes, too, and they ring out at the open of all three, along with that smooth floral heart. I'm thinking hillaire got it right, ylang-ylang + muguet.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    In my My sin Eau de Lanvin, the civet is not very strong at the beginning, where it is mainly floral, but then comes out in full force in the drydown.

    cacio

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Maybe it's my chemistry, cacio, but other civets hit me harder than My Sin, notably Intimate, Bal a Versailles, and Jicky.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    I'm just venturing into Chanel N5, the mother of the other three. What else to where on Christmas Day?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    Speaking of No. 5. I have an oooooooooold bottle of cologne -- they don't make it anymore, I don't think. It is full of....civet.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Finding the common note: Antilope, Ma Griffe, My Sin

    So I have heard, rednails. Now, having added n5 to make a quartet, I'm wondering if the secret ingredient isn't anisic aldehyde after all. I'm smelling tarragon (anisic), and all 4 have aldehydes , so it makes sense. Does anyone know for sure?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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