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  1. #1
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    Default Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Has anyone tried this yet? If so, any thoughts/comments. Thanks.

    From nstperfume.com:

    Ambrarem ~ An expression of desire and passion with marine, animalic and floral accents. The notes feature pink pepper, elemi, iris, oud, saffron, castoreum, bourbon vanilla, sandalwood and amber.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    I wore Ambrarem last night for New Year's Eve. Ambrarem opens with a distinct petroleum accord - that HDP Petroleum doesn't have. It's like they named them wrong. Take a Xerjoff Homme or Knize 10 opening, tame it, knock the intial blast down by 70%, and you have a sophisticated petroleum accord created by a balancing act between saffron, iris and castoreum.

    Gérald Ghislain is the "king of balance". Time and time again he manages to balance scents so meticulously, that talking about individual notes seems pointless.

    Ambrarem gets my vote for the most "Unique Scent of 2011". I haven't smelled anything like it in the last 3,000 samples I acquired. The scent has nose addicting qualities - new pleasures for the nose, not knowing the origin or caring for that matter.

    I think these three Edition Rare scents could have been called "The Juxtaposition Trilogy" or
    "The Yin and Yang Ménage à trois." Let's give you floral one minute, then hit you with an anamalic theme, then bam, a sweet thing going on - all the while not having a clue what's happening, but enjoying every minute of it. Let's just say Ambrarem will be my first bottle purchase of 2012.

    Gérald Ghislain really takes his perfume creations to knew levels of enjoyment with The Edition Rare Trilogy. These are serious perfumes with super high quality raw materials, fantastic longevity and sillage.

    Ambrarem is like good Ménage à trois, you'll never forget it, always wanting to come back for more.

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Ambrarem is like good Ménage à trois, you'll never forget it, always wanting to come back for more.
    Sounds good.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    Gérald Ghislain is the "king of balance".
    Thebeck, I couldn't agree more with the above statement and the whole assessment given in your post! Unfortunately I only had the chance to rapidly test Ambrarem while I was at the shop buyng Petroleum but what you say is clearly and immediately noticeable. Personally I still believe the most successful and unique composition of the lot is Petroleum just because Ghislain had already explored amber in Ambre 114. That being said, the whole juxtaposition thing, the super-quality of the ingredients and the perfect blendind are outstanding.

    There's one thing I noticed: The Edition Rare share a "new signature". I still have to come up with a more precise idea but, so far, it seems that they all introduce a transparent, sort of watery, vibe. Don't get me wrong, all of them are full bodied compositions but Ghislain was able to create three bold fragrances that, at the same time, feel somehow weightless. Amazing stuff.

    Even Rosam, which initially sounded "forgettable", is still head and shoulders above the average quality available on the market. Incredibly blended and very far from the stereotyped rose/oud combo.

    I already own Petroleum but I feel like I will buy the other two pretty soon...
    Last edited by alfarom; 1st January 2012 at 05:04 PM.


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  5. #5

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    alfarom said - [There's one thing I noticed: The Edition Rare share a "new signature". I still have to come up with a more precise idea but, so far, it seems that they all introduce a transparent, sort of watery, vibe. Don't get me wrong, all of them are full bodied compositions but Ghislain was able to create three bold fragrances that, at the same time, feel somehow weightless. Amazing stuff.

    I said - Exactly - the watery marine thing is a repeated theme. People won't know what we're talking about until they experience these.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Very favorable first impression of Ambrarem on YouTube:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpRtDPy6TZg

  7. #7

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit166 View Post
    Very favorable first impression of Ambrarem on YouTube:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpRtDPy6TZg
    Yeah, Robes rated it the top fragrance of 2011. Very curious to sample it.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    I am crushing hard on this scent.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Another winner from HdP, this house is superb. Ambrarem is one of the most unique ambers around with a kickass Petroleum opening. Definitely, NOT a blind buy, but test it first. Their Amber 114 is a smooth round amber and Ambrarem is the upstart.

    Cheers Rex
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    I tried this yesterday, thanks to a generous BNer. I had been intrigued by the notes and the comments of many BNers (especially alfarom), but I should have been warned by the "marine" reference.

    Upon spraying, Ambrarem is a mineral leather, not terribly unpleasant, but crude and a little too sketchy. Yes, it is modern and toned down, relative to say Knize Ten (as if this were a good thing), but it also lacks the warmth and interest of the reference predecessor. In any case, the monster soon comes out. When smelled with the nose against the skin, one gets the mineral/leather part, plus a touch of amber sweetness. But at a distance, an unpleasant marine-ozonic note dominates the picture. Quite durable too. I very strongly dislike these types of notes, so this kills it for me.

    While tamer than most of the entries in this dismal category, Ambrarem is clearly related to the scary nauticals a la M/Mink or Tirrenico. (which explains why alfarom likes it so much). So I think that one's opinion of Ambrarem will depend on how one feels about the style.

    I am curious, and a little scared, to smell the reportedly starker Petroleum. Will the nautical character be even stronger?

    cacio

  11. #11

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    LOOOL Cacio. I'm so sorry you didn't like Ambrarem. Personally I still find Petroleum to be the winner of the trio, Ambrarem is pretty darn good too but when it comes to ambers I stick with the more classic Ambre Precieux or the incensey Ambra Mediterranea.

    That being said, the marine note is the common demeanor of the whole series so, at this point, I feel like strongly disencourage you to test the other two. Really. BTW, just because of you, today I blind bought a bottle of Paco Rabanne Metal. YAY!!!!


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  12. #12

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Alfarom, have you tried Kinski? If not, I think you might like it. (And Cacio, you shouldn't go near it!)

  13. #13

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    Alfarom, have you tried Kinski? If not, I think you might like it. (And Cacio, you shouldn't go near it!)
    I've two huge samples waiting for me and I rapidly tried it on paper. I've to say that my first impression is not so positive. I get the same, strong, overwhelming, chemical blast that I used to like so much in Escentric 01 and bored me in no time. I've to give it a full wear to come up with my (personal) final virdict but, so far, I'd say: much hype-no substance.


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  14. #14

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Have a sample of this on the way to sicked lol :P

  15. #15

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    I've two huge samples waiting for me and I rapidly tried it on paper. I've to say that my first impression is not so positive. I get the same, strong, overwhelming, chemical blast that I used to like so much in Escentric 01 and bored me in no time. I've to give it a full wear to come up with my (personal) final virdict but, so far, I'd say: much hype-no substance.
    Initial sniff vs. full wear is completely different in the case of Kinski. Give it a chance. Around the fourth hour, it blew my mind.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    For the usual law of "contrappasso", as we say in Italian, I bet alfarom is going to hate the green oily note of Metal ("synthetic narcissus", presumably).

    Kinski = chemical bilge. Note taken...

    cacio

  17. #17

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    Initial sniff vs. full wear is completely different in the case of Kinski. Give it a chance. Around the fourth hour, it blew my mind.
    I'm glad you said that. I received a sample of Kinski yesterday and I might have gone ahead scrubbed it off too early.

    now i know to wait for the mind=blown phase

  18. #18

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    There is plenty to offend along the way. Definitely not for everyone. But the transformation it does left me in awe.

    Quote Originally Posted by SmelltheGlove View Post
    I'm glad you said that. I received a sample of Kinski yesterday and I might have gone ahead scrubbed it off too early.

    now i know to wait for the mind=blown phase

  19. #19

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    Initial sniff vs. full wear is completely different in the case of Kinski. Give it a chance. Around the fourth hour, it blew my mind.
    I'm a huge fan of certain types of synthetic notes (hence my love for CDG and the likes), but what initially disappointed me in Kinski is the strong resemblance to Escentric 01. As I previously said I only rapidly tested it on paper so I'll need a full wear to see if the strong similarity is actual or was just a temporary olfactive hallucination.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    For the usual law of "contrappasso", as we say in Italian, I bet alfarom is going to hate the green oily note of Metal ("synthetic narcissus", presumably).
    Let's see. I usually trust your nose and with the exception of some sporadic "bilge" note, we have a compatible taste.
    Last edited by alfarom; 26th February 2012 at 03:26 PM.


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  20. #20

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    ... an unpleasant marine-ozonic note ... clearly related to the scary nauticals a la M/Mink or Tirrenico.

    M/Mink to me doesn't have a 'nautical' aspect. Maybe we don't talk about the same thing. There are 'aquatic' and 'nautic' and 'marine' and 'ozonic' and 'bilge' 'notes'. I argue there should be a difference between the Atlantic the Mediterranean the Pacific the Arctic the Antarctic and all the other seas. At least for a trained nose, who I'm not.

    http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2...lecules-2.html

    My own olfactory reference system is better in relating fragrances to others than in identifying single 'notes'. Would it be a heretic statement to say, the more a fragrance can be separated into 'notes' the less it is of interest?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Wildthingy:

    I used "nautical" as a catch all term to indicate materials, to which I must be hypersensitive, that recall bilges and brackish water - in different ways, with different decaying seafood or bilge construction materials.

    Thanks for the link, very interesting. Given my dislike, I've always been curious about these notes, and interested in trying to distinguish them. They do give different interpretations of the nautical theme: from the tropical swamp Eden, to the French swamp of Bas de soie, the intensely brackish Tirrenico, the decaying flower water of the drydown of Love in white, the more mineral, synthetic bilges of M/Mink, Ambrarem, and, at the extreme, SM. There are probably very many, and, in your list, while I dislike calone, it doesn't give me quite the horror of these other notes.

    cacio

  22. #22

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Wildthingy:

    I used "nautical" as a catch all term to indicate materials, to which I must be hypersensitive, that recall bilges and brackish water ...
    And this I don't get.

    http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2...lecules-1.html

    The link given above is part (1) of an introduction to 'clean' molecules to which the earlier given link to 'marine' chemicals follows as part (2). Your personal connotation to 'marine' evokes the picture of foul/rot, slippery dirt.

    Do You see the contradiction? My assumption is (I probably will never smell Petroleum or Ambrarem due to extensive costs and hassle to get a sample), HdP tried to clean up and lighten the usually hefty 'oud'-theme. I can imagine a peculiar contrast in such a concoction.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    What about the rotting note in Bolt of Lightning? Does that one not bother you?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Wildthingy:

    I used "nautical" as a catch all term to indicate materials, to which I must be hypersensitive, that recall bilges and brackish water - in different ways, with different decaying seafood or bilge construction materials.

    Thanks for the link, very interesting. Given my dislike, I've always been curious about these notes, and interested in trying to distinguish them. They do give different interpretations of the nautical theme: from the tropical swamp Eden, to the French swamp of Bas de soie, the intensely brackish Tirrenico, the decaying flower water of the drydown of Love in white, the more mineral, synthetic bilges of M/Mink, Ambrarem, and, at the extreme, SM. There are probably very many, and, in your list, while I dislike calone, it doesn't give me quite the horror of these other notes.

    cacio

  24. #24

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    I'm a huge fan of certain types of synthetic notes (hence my love for CDG and the likes), but what initially disappointed me in Kinski is the strong resemblance to Escentric 01. As I previously said I only rapidly tested it on paper so I'll need a full wear to see if the strong similarity is actual of was just a temporary olfactive hallucination.
    It is definitely an extension of both Escentric 01 and (as you learn about 4 hours later) Excentric 02. if you're not a fan of those, I think cacio is correct that you will not like Kinski either. I happen to like the first two--not quite enough to buy a bottle. Kinski was the one that made me pull out the payment card.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Wildthingy:


    Fascinating topic indeed...

    As it often happens, I think people have different associations. These are materials with sharp, mineral characteristics that, depending on sensitivity and intensity, could recall clean, if not household cleaning, or byproducts of bacterial decomposition in the presence of metal (as in bilges). To me, this second aspect prevails. I can imagine how the opposite aspect prevails for (most) other people-or it would be impossible to explain why they are used with such abandon. In addition, as said, I don't feel this way for all marine notes, just some, likely the ones to which I am most sensitive to.

    I agree that decomposition and brackish water have many aromatics compounds, some more traditionally dirty or sweetish (this is the aspect most present in Eden, for instance), but they also have mineral-metallic aspects (M/Mink, secretions magnifiques, etc.). If you find M/Mink clean, then Ambrarem is exactly as you say, a sweetish tar/oud wiped over with some sharp hospital cleaner. If you get the chance (I know it's difficult), you should try to smell Tirrenico: the "marine" aspect is intensified to such a degree that it will probably suggest decaying sea life even to the most ardent marine lover.

    For an easier to find example, have you ever smelled Scent by Issey Miyake? what's your take on it? It is not very intense, and the note is pretty much in isolation, so I think this is a nice test to determine how one perceives clean marine.

    cacio

  26. #26

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Brian:

    no, the (non-mineral) decaying note of tuberose, as in Eclair, doesn't bother me at all. Which, once again, shows that people have different sensitivities and mental associations.

    I must also retry Womanity. Some recent comments mention foul, decaying notes that I simply don't get - so here's another example of olfactory nerve (or brain) differences ...

    cacio

  27. #27

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    ... (non-mineral) decaying note of ... foul, decaying notes ...
    My observation as a layman: flowers occasionally evaporate the same molecules that are a signature of feces or rot in order to attract insects (carnal flower). These molecules isolated and used in a perfume, which 'note' would they make? Fecal or flowery?

    In modern perfumery many chemicals are used as single components, as 'atoms' of smell. In such cases the description of a fragrance as build up by 'notes' doesn't make sense anymore. While a specific smell can be made up by a single significant molecule, most of the smells around are mixtures of chemicals in specific proportions. As perfumers are free to synthesize such proportions in an arbitrary manner, these guys invent unprecedented, nameless 'notes' all day. Where would one draw the line within all this chemical mess in order to differentiate note A against note B?

  28. #28

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    It is definitely an extension of both Escentric 01 and (as you learn about 4 hours later) Excentric 02. if you're not a fan of those, I think cacio is correct that you will not like Kinski either. I happen to like the first two--not quite enough to buy a bottle. Kinski was the one that made me pull out the payment card.
    I actually think Escentric 01 was pretty fine (and bought a full bottlle a few years back) but I've never been able to pull it off regularly as after a bunch of wearings I started to get a sticky and kinda oppressive quality to it.

    Let's see what happens with Kinski but my point is slightly different. Kinski sounds like something "claculated" to achieve the success of Escentric 01. Just like a (not so) talented pop singer trying to replicate his previous unexpected success. All the elements of the first memorable song are there, but the new track lacks the freshness and the innovative power of the firs song.

    OMG, this thread is derailed....sorry guys.

    @Cacio: I get the infamous watery/bilge-like/milky note you mention, also from LeLabo's Neroli 36. Not as prominent as in the Eldo, but still there, IMO.
    Last edited by alfarom; 23rd February 2012 at 11:26 PM.


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  29. #29

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Any more opinions on Ambrarem? I'm eagerly awaiting a sample (along with Petroleum) with my order from First in Fragrance, which unfortunately won't be arriving for another 4 weeks!

  30. #30

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    Any more opinions on Ambrarem? I'm eagerly awaiting a sample (along with Petroleum) with my order from First in Fragrance, which unfortunately won't be arriving for another 4 weeks!
    You'll enjoy this one Duke; I think we have fairly similar tastes. I blind bought it based on various reviews and the listed notes; very nice fragrance. I don't find it as challenging as some have noted, I enjoy it from top to bottom, with the dry down ending up as a creamy vanilla (on my skin at least)

  31. #31

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Fraghead View Post
    You'll enjoy this one Duke; I think we have fairly similar tastes. I blind bought it based on various reviews and the listed notes; very nice fragrance. I don't find it as challenging as some have noted, I enjoy it from top to bottom, with the dry down ending up as a creamy vanilla (on my skin at least)
    Sounds good! I have no doubt I'll love it. Have you tried Petroleum?

  32. #32

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    I own large decants of both Ambrarem and Rosam plus a full bottle of Petroleum and IMO Petroleum is still the standout...


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  33. #33
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    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    Any more opinions on Ambrarem? I'm eagerly awaiting a sample (along with Petroleum) with my order from First in Fragrance, which unfortunately won't be arriving for another 4 weeks!
    I am definitely in the minority, but I really disliked it and found it sickeningly sweet. I also found that it was too castoreum heavy for my taste. Petroleum on the other hand was absolutely wonderful.
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  34. #34

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    Sounds good! I have no doubt I'll love it. Have you tried Petroleum?
    No; but I may just order a small sample in the future!

  35. #35

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    I'm still getting my nose around these but my impression so far is that Ambrarem is the weakest of the bunch. Petroleum is by far the best and most interesting although I do like the transparency of Rosam.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Histoires de Parfums Ambrarem

    Quote Originally Posted by laph View Post
    I'm still getting my nose around these but my impression so far is that Ambrarem is the weakest of the bunch. Petroleum is by far the best and most interesting although I do like the transparency of Rosam.
    Interesting, because Robes08 from Youtube, said the opposite! Confusing

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