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  1. #1

    Post Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Hi. Soon i'll be giving a try to the DIY world of perfumery. I am reading a lot of articles, posts and even a book about perfume.
    There are many people who want to recreate their favourite fragrances using raw perfumery components. I think nobody noticed this here before but some of these components are always listed on the box of perfume.

    Example: (Burberry The Beat!)
    INGREDIENTS: ALCOHOL DENAT. (SD ALCOHOL 39-C) -PARFUM-AQUA-BENZYL SALICILATE-BUTYLPHENTYL METHYLPROPIONAL-LIMONENE-ALPHA ISOMETHYL IONONE-HEXYL CINNAMAL-HYDROXYCINNAMATE-GERANIOL-LINALOOL-COUMARIN-DIETHYLOAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE-CITRAL-BENZYL BENZOATE-BENZYL ALCOHOL-AMYL CINNAMAL-CL 14700 (RED 4)

    I guess the main "secret ingredients" of the fragrance are hiding behind -PARFUM- but i see some of aroma chemicals listed separatly (like limonene,linalool).
    Why are those other chemicals listed separatly?
    Why some of the aroma ingredients are listed and some of them hidden under the -PARFUM- tag? What decides about it?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    The listed ingredients are required by law to be listed because they are potential allergens/irritants. Unfortunately it tells you almost nothing if say, limonene is listed, as limonene is present in many essential oils.

    I can't recall them all but I know that alpha isomethyl ionone, 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (lyral), and butylphenyl methylpropional (lilial) are a few of the stand alone synthetics that have to be listed. Seeing those on a package does help somewhat, as you at least know that synthetic is present in the mix, but still, those chemicals are in tons of scents that smell nothing alike so it doesn't help much. :\
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Most will also have UV Filters, Antioxidants and Colours listed too. These are also potential allergens.
    Australian Blog on Fine Fragrance ---> http://savourandscent.tumblr.com/

    Winemaker/Perfumer for Emerald Vintners ---> www.emeraldvintners.com.au

  4. #4

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Quote Originally Posted by GuerlainJedi View Post
    Hi. Soon i'll be giving a try to the DIY world of perfumery. I am reading a lot of articles, posts and even a book about perfume.
    There are many people who want to recreate their favourite fragrances using raw perfumery components. I think nobody noticed this here before but some of these components are always listed on the box of perfume.

    Example: (Burberry The Beat!)
    INGREDIENTS: ALCOHOL DENAT. (SD ALCOHOL 39-C) -PARFUM-AQUA-BENZYL SALICILATE-BUTYLPHENTYL METHYLPROPIONAL-LIMONENE-ALPHA ISOMETHYL IONONE-HEXYL CINNAMAL-HYDROXYCINNAMATE-GERANIOL-LINALOOL-COUMARIN-DIETHYLOAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE-CITRAL-BENZYL BENZOATE-BENZYL ALCOHOL-AMYL CINNAMAL-CL 14700 (RED 4)

    I guess the main "secret ingredients" of the fragrance are hiding behind -PARFUM- but i see some of aroma chemicals listed separatly (like limonene,linalool).
    Why are those other chemicals listed separatly?
    Why some of the aroma ingredients are listed and some of them hidden under the -PARFUM- tag? What decides about it?
    This mainly the result of the EU Cosmetics Directive - in the UK implemented by the 2008 Cosmetics Regulations, which list 26 ingredients that have to be shown on the label.

    Just to add two points to what’s already been said here:
    First many of these ingredients, like limonene, linalool, geraniol farnesol and cintronelol are in a whole host of natural oils as well as sometimes added as an aroma-chemical. You have to list them however they got there. So for example geraniol on the list might indicate rose otto, geranium oil or pure geraniol was used (or a host of other things for that matter).

    Second: if you list one of these things on the label and it isn’t there you’re not going to be prosecuted. If you fail to list it and it is there you risk prosecution. Even very tiny amounts have to be declared (a few parts per million), so to protect myself I routinely list all the ones that appear in natural oils on all my labels, just in case.

    The net result of all this is that it’s of no practical use in determining what is in a perfume you’ve bought.

    Perfume can neither be copyrighted nor patented so the only way a perfumer has of protecting his or her work is to:
    a) keep the formula secret.
    b) use proprietary molecules (called ‘captives’ in the industry) which are aroma-chemicals that have been made by the perfume house in question and which can be patented.
    c) use other kinds of very special and exclusive ingredients that are not available to those who might try to copy his or her work.
    d) use some natural ingredients, which are harder to identify using GC-MS analysis.

    Only the big 5 perfume houses have the option of b) and most of us struggle with c), d) isn’t fully effective and in any case only works in conjunction with a). Hence the secrecy.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Sorry Chris, you are a little bit wrong about labelling every allergen in the fragrance. The allergens have to be listed if they are present above a certain level in the finished product, so it depends how much is present in the concentrated fragrance, and how much concentrated fragrance is present in the final product. It is not necessary to label every allergen present.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Actually I think I’m a little bit right David

    I didn’t say you have to label every potential allergen in the fragrance, I said:

    Even very tiny amounts have to be declared . . .
    I could have been admittedly more right, if I’d said that the limit above which you have to declare any of these materials is 0.001% of the product (that’s for perfumes, it’s different for wash-off products). Anyone interested can see the full list of restricted ingredients, direct from the legislation as passed by the UK Parliament. The bits most relevant to perfumery are items 67-92 (which have labelling requirements) and 96 & 97 (which don’t). There have been some amendments to the regulations since they were passed, but I couldn’t find a consolidated list to link to.

    Now of course with an aroma-chemical that does not occur in nature (such as Lyral for example) I will always know whether or not I’ve added any and exactly how much. But for a substance which occurs in multiple essential oils that I routinely use I can never be sure, even if I calculate it out on the basis of a series of standard compositions, that I don’t have a particular batch of, say clove bud oil, that contains higher than usual amounts of eugenol and as a result have tipped over the threshold. It is therefore a pragmatic and sensible precaution to include eugenol on the label.

    I know that your experience David is of working in larger companies and in that environment I can see that you might conduct an analysis on each batch of each material and therefore have a precise measure of each of those ingredients in each fragrance. For those of use who work alone however that’s impossible, so we have to make pragmatic choices to enable us to be sure of avoiding a £5k fine or 6 months in prison . . .
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Sorry guys, I have a question about this, you talked about UK or EU legislation so far, but I know that almost every perfumer house follows IFRA regulations as well, about allergens and restricted ingredients. I know that IFRA standards are not mandatory but also know that they have a strong power and almost everyone consider them as they were laws.
    Well, now here's my question: does IFRA want you to put in labels allergens or do they regulate only the composition of perfumes?
    Thanks
    Sebastiano - Organic Chemist

  8. #8

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    This is an interesting topic for discussion, as it's the realm of the advanced perfumer and a very important topic...compliance.

    Otocione, they are talking about UK legislation, which is similar to the EU directives that cover similar things. This legislation states the amount at which certain aroma chemicals may be, when they must BEGIN to be obligatory to list in the ingredients. As Chris Bartlett pointed out, 0.001% for most mentioned (this is effectively the moment you add in anything that contains said molecules really...)

    The IFRA is a separate third party industry body that offers standards at which many countries subscribe.

    For a shortcut...follow the IFRA, and you're generally following the member countries legislation. But it's always safe to double check local legislation.

    To put simply, we're currently going through compliance with our own line of fragrances, with the aim to have the ability to export to the EU, UK and US...and this means reviewing approximately 10 very lengthy pieces of legislation...that law degree is coming in handy now...
    Australian Blog on Fine Fragrance ---> http://savourandscent.tumblr.com/

    Winemaker/Perfumer for Emerald Vintners ---> www.emeraldvintners.com.au

  9. #9

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    Quote Originally Posted by otocione View Post
    Sorry guys, I have a question about this, you talked about UK or EU legislation so far, but I know that almost every perfumer house follows IFRA regulations as well, about allergens and restricted ingredients. I know that IFRA standards are not mandatory but also know that they have a strong power and almost everyone consider them as they were laws.
    Well, now here's my question: does IFRA want you to put in labels allergens or do they regulate only the composition of perfumes?
    Thanks
    Sorry - just to clarify - IFRA say nothing at all about labelling requirements. As far as IFRA is concerned as long as all the materials you use are permitted and used in permitted quantities then no-one needs to know what is in your fragrance. Indeed part of the reason the IFRA standards were first set up was to help maintain that position of secrecy which the industry believes necessary.

    Unfortunately the EU thinks differently and has made a separate set of regulations which have the force of law in all EU member countries, implemented through separate but compatible legislation in each country. If you wish to sell to any EU country you have to comply with those regulations, including the labelling requirements. There is work underway to try to harmonise those requirements with the similar but different ones that obtain in the USA but there are still significant differences.

    Just to complicate things further the labels have to identify ingredients in defined ways - using a peculiar combination of Latin, French, English, chemical names and registration numbers that only the EU could come up with and virtually no-one understands.

    The net result is that it’s quite hard as BCarter says.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Aroma chemicals listed on the perfume package

    @ BCarter
    Thank you, actually I knew what IFRA was, my question was specifically on what they require about labels.

    @Chris
    Ok, thank you
    Sebastiano - Organic Chemist

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