I have only a few 'looks' - either something very like the Hasidic, or, in Summer, light linen suits - so it is all about mood for me.
Inscrutability among those trying hard to place one - Caron pour un Homme or Eau Sauvage. (They are never out of place, and say virtually nothing about one's class, personal life or profession. Almost masks.)
A languid day spent idly among art galleries - Hammam Bouquet. (It is hard not to just relax and commune with the beauty of life wearing this - for the first three hours at least.)
Wishing to make a good impression on colleagues, or for that matter just socially - Tabac Blond. (Slightly androgynous, true, but easily masculine enough, to say nothing of ravishing, that I feel self-assured wearing it. I have gotten the most complimentary reactions to it of anything I have yet worn, which is pleasant.)
Ambitious resolve that involves doing things by oneself instead of in the company of others - En Avion. (It is feminine, but also so - austere. I do sometimes hesitate to wear it when out, for it is so feminine that it's really very daring for a man. But it makes me want to accomplish difficult things.)