I agree on the Vibskov...abysmal. Biehl is very erratic, ranges from total crap to fantastic...what have you sampled? And what exactly from CDG?
H&G has some pretty cool stuff (e.g. Skarb and Blask)
I had pictures and stuff attached to it so I'll just post my link.
Ordered a huge batch of samples which came today so I've spent the day exploring them. Been HUGELY dissapointed with most of them. The Henric Vibskov ones were just rubbish. Ordered some CdG which unfortunately didn't take my fancy!
And some biehlparfumkunstwerke, which were also a let down.
But H&G have blown me away.
Some initial reviews of Skarb, Bosque, Geste, Multiple Rouge and Askew
I agree on the Vibskov...abysmal. Biehl is very erratic, ranges from total crap to fantastic...what have you sampled? And what exactly from CDG?
H&G has some pretty cool stuff (e.g. Skarb and Blask)
Ah I'm gutted I didn't get to try Blask, and Eau Radieuse, and whatever other ones weren't available on luckyscent at the time I ordered.
My biehl ones were, mb02, al02 amongst a couple other non worth mentioning....
The comme des garcons, both monocles, hinoki which I really hoped to enjoy but didn't find as exciting, stephen jones, another I really wanted to like, I didn't realise how clove filled it would be - can't stand cloves, and zagorsk, also picked up a lot of cloves in this which was a shame. I'm really trying to explore more CdG I like, I own avignon, and it took me a while to enjoy that!
Vibskov - abysmal is a perfect word. Feels like a right waste of samples.
Also got some Tauer's, which I didn't like as much as others.
But testing the Humiecki and Graefs, really gave me some inspiration to the load of rubbish I've been choosing recently.
You have any suggestions alfarom? I always respect your nose on this forum.
I can't wait to try Blask, myself. I've tried all the rest of them. I actually blind bought Skarb as it was on sale for over half off - luckily I love it. I would love to own bottles of Askew and Geste and maybe even Bosque but I think I'll live with samples or decants as they aren't remotely close to scents I'd wear regularly. Still, I love'em! Heck, Eau Radieuse is a wonderful once in a while scent, too. Green bananas, lemons, and a wide open sense of space. There are days when that scent would blend in such a synergistic way as to make magic.
It's interesting that you pick up watermelon in Skarb. I've never gotten such a vibe - I get more of a sweet chamomile along with lemony incense in the opening along with a bit of 'brown sugar' from the myrrh/carrot seed/orris combo. My skin brings out the salty herbal elements of Skarb and make it a great great great late summer early autumn scent. It evokes the thought of golden leaves and dry, yellow fields. Grain and earth. Salty and human.
Speaking of salty and human, Bosque really does capture the essence of - well, have you seen the marketing picture they use for it? It's very post orgasmic in a sense. The slightly tangy grapefruit and salty vetiver notes mingle with the milky accord to create a smell evoking the essence of a woman, while the chlorinated marine notes and again the milky accord combine quite well to create the slightly sweet smell of the essence of a man; all of that on a bed of grass. Bosque, a quick romp in a summer meadow. Carefree and joyous.
On the other hand, CdG - same relies on 'saffraleine'. Insense Ultramarine goes for 'pharaone'. Once one has smelled the kind-of-plastic raw materials in high concentrations these ingredients won't hide any more. Particularly chemicals that are designed to give a whole palette of olfactory sensations with only one molecule. May be I'm too critical ...
I actually quite liked AL02 but like it better AL03 which is bsically an imporvement on the 02 with the addition of a considerable animalic base. The rest of the offering is quite unremarkable...
As for CDG, my suggestion is to have some patience with the Stephen Jones. Yes, cloves are definitely there, but unless you're really hypersensitive to them, they're kinda overwhelmed by violet leaves and aldehydes and not so prominent...
Wierd, you deacribing Skarb makes it sound like a whole other fragrance. Well I've still got stacks more wearings of them ahead in the future so I'm sure my initial impressions will change.
And yes! I didnt see the Bosque advertising until after I tried it, it's perfect! Sums up everythinf it feels to me. This will probably be my first purchase from the line, absolutely loved it.
Yeh al02 was pleasant, nothing more, wish I'd got 03 now though sounds more interesting. Also regretted not getting mb03 as I read its an inbetween Avignon and Cardinal... Ah well, wont bother with this line again.
I will definitely try Stephen Jones again, the aldehydes were fantastic and I love violet but the cloves were too much initially. I may be able to get over it as it's more dentist-euganol-clove than spice. I'll never own a bottle I'm sure, but I'll enjoy some good wearings.
Thanks for your input
"It's interesting that you pick up watermelon in Skarb. I've never gotten such a vibe - I get more of a sweet chamomile along with lemony incense in the opening along with a bit of 'brown sugar' from the myrrh/carrot seed/orris combo. My skin brings out the salty herbal elements "
http://www.iff.com/custom/iff/books/.../324382196.pdf , page 44). May be all that development - which is impossible for a sole molecule - is a game with otherwise developing contrasts in the rest of the fragrance. Skarb is special; it reminds me of Polish ghurkins which is a peculiar effect if You know Poland from first hand experience. The Slavish man ... ...
The price is rediculous, though. I could not buy it without feeling bad. Too bad.
<edit> helional is also known as 'floramelon' - so there has to be a melon-y aspect ...
Last edited by WildThingy; 13th January 2012 at 07:05 PM.
alfarom - thanks for the suggestion I'll look into that one!
WildThingy - that would explain it. I'm useless with my knowledge pf aroma chemicals and such, so appreciate little bits like this thanks.
I'm testing Bosque more and loving it, but you're right, the price - Oh Man!!
Hmm, the weird thing is that now that melon has been mentioned, I can sort of smell it if I try when sniffing the top notes. I wouldn't say that melon is the predominant note by any means, but there is a facet of it up there along with the rest. Interesting! I don't doubt that helional is there indeed.
Question to those who've tried both: Is there any similarity between Skarb's fresh/watery notes and Profumum's Acqua di Sale? If I recall, I think Turin described AdS as "helional alone."
All of that being said, Helional's substantivity is listed at only 64 hours over at Good Scents site, while any base note (look up say, Sandalwood, Labdanum, etc) is always listed at 400 hours (it must be the most they measure as I've never seen any higher number there, despite different base notes having different - but very long - substantivities.) So surely it's not "just helional" as the longevity would be pretty bad if that were the case (note that the 64 hour listed longevity is on paper and in 100% concentration.. I've found that you need to divide that number by at least 10, and probably more like 20, to get a realistic "on skin" time).
Of course Skarb is not just helional. The dry down has some musk for sure. By that it avoids - to some degree- to become too one dimensional in the end. Just today I smelled the breathtaking sillage of a friend, who prepared to stumble into a new team. Contemporary fragrances are mostly quite predictable, and their utter simplicity is as obvious as their synthetic origin. Skarb is nothing of that kind.
I'm afraid I spoiled Your fun with it. When all these people started to discuss various aspects of Skarb, which I considered typical for helional I couldn't keep my mouth shut. Bad boy!
I gave it a thumbs up. At least it has a funny story behind it, say mothers home made ghurkins, at least to me. And technically the idea to center a scent on a specific complex smelling chemical is not that revolutionary any more, but here it is worked out quite well.
I just received samples of Askew, Bosque, Blask and Skarb. I guess I'll post my impressions here...
Well, I'm wearing Blask right now, and quite frankly, this is one of the best fragrances I've tried in a long, long time. That doesn't mean it's easy to wear though. To me, it smells pretty much like the notes in its official pyramid, but the red wine comes off more like red apple (likely some sort of tannin smell). Official notes are red wine, bay laurel, walnut wood, floral notes and oud. All in all, I'd say it smells like sweet red apple candy (but smooth and good quality) over a touch of bay leaves and walnut wood. I don't really smell the oud, but there's a very nice and clean/floral musk in the base that smooths everything over very well. There's seriously nothing out there that smells like this! It's unique, clean, sexy and youthful, but it doesn't smell cheap. At the same time, it doesn't smell luxurious either - you could smell this on someone and you'd have no idea it costs 200$ for a bottle.
I don't get the Straight to Heaven similarities, but I am detecting something that reminds me of Le Male! It's weird because Blask smells NOTHING like Le Male, but I think I'm smelling a powdery, clean musk used in both fragrances.
Anyway, this is a very special fragrance, and I'll definitely be wearing more of it this week. My hat's off to the "Christophes," the perfumers who created the Humiecki and Graef line. This is really a refreshing and unique composition - modern perfumery at its best.
I get a solid dose of calone in Skarb which was the only reason I rejected it. I dislike calone strongly, but I definitely respect Skarb's uniqueness and integrity of concept. Askew was also off for me but not easily dismissed -- very unique too. I think H&G has a lot of integrity as a company considering the speed of releases.
H*ly sh*t I haven't even given these a lot of time, but I'm sniffing Skarb and Askew and they're simply genius. I haven't been this excited about a fragrance line in months.
SO UNIQUE, and SO GOOD. Christophe Laudamiel is by far my new favorite perfumer.
Skarb is this comfy, earthy, dewy, rain-y barley and carrot seed fragrance, while Askew is electric, like the air before a thunderstorm, yet so well-calculated, sexy and sophisticated. It's like Abercrombie's Fierce but 10 years down the line, with more class.
I tried Bosque yesterday, but I was a little underwhelmed by it. It was like a mix of fresh and ozonic notes, buffalo grass and clean synthetic musk. The buffalo grass note is awesome though.
Glad to hear you love them L'Aventurier. You seem to be into the modern avant garde scents, so that doesn't surprise me too much. Laudamiel (and Hornetz) are arguably the masters of that genre.
I too love Skarb and Askew. I need to get a bottle of the latter. It is so truly alive - it is just perfect to wear as the snow is thawing and spring is returning.
I noticed you own a bottle of Skarb - it's such a great fragrance. It's a shame it doesn't get more positive attention on these boards.
The only other fragrance I own by Laudamiel is S-ex. I really love that one too, it's so modern and unique. Very avant-garde!
I'll have to keep an eye out (or a nose) for Laudamiel and Hornetz's next fragrances together.
If you notice Askew on sale somewhere, like Luckyscent or something, let me know and I'll do the same. I'd love to own a bottle too, I'm just a bit hesitant to pay the 220$ price tag.
It's only available at First in Fragrance as far as I know. And yeah, it's hard to cough up so much for it - but not because it's not worth it. Yeah, it doesn't come across with the 'opulence and splendor' most would demand of a $200+ perfume, but I don't care, it has a true vitality to it that so few perfumes have. I'm just hard up for cash as of late :P.
Regarding Skarb, I actually blind bought it last year for my birthday as I found it for sale for about half off - and it was the last bottle in stock according to their site (and it actually went out of stock after my purcahse so they weren't actually misrepresenting their stock to make a sale!) A great blind buy. The earthy incense is like nothing else; the closest comparison might be a lighter take on the basic theme of Yatagan, but even so there are many differences.
Well said, SOS. I was just thinking that - the H&G fragrances aren't loud and luxurious, which, for some reason I expect from higher price tag fragrances. The Humiecki line still stands out, but in a reserved and confident way. Like saying something witty and intelligent without shouting.
I'm definitely going to purchase one of them, either Skarb or Askew. I really enjoy Blask, but it doesn't really suit me. I'm wearing Skarb today and it's really enjoyable. I'm getting kind of a salty-ozonic vibe on top of the barley, which smells so natural, yet modern and clean. It reminds me just a little of Erolfa in terms of the ozonic saltiness.
You got an awesome deal on Skarb! That's a pretty crazy blind buy, but I guess there's a lot to be expected from the Christophes these days.
Gosh these reviews are old and desperately need updating!
L'Aventurier I was also so excited when I tried this line. Keep at it with Bosque, it was the one that blew me away and I've wanted a bottle ever since. Pure joy on first blast - spring meadows, dried glass and delicate flowers with a bizarre lactonic note that transforms into a Secretions Magnifique sperm accord of salt and metal. It's BRILLIANT.
Hey forfreddie, I actually really enjoyed reading your reviews on your blog. I wanted to thank you for that, since you're the reason I chose to sample the Humiecki line in the first place. There weren't many reviews on the net about them, and you did a great job describing them. It got me really interested in trying them.
Considering your blog and the fragrances you reviewed, it's obvious you've got good (and eclectic!) taste with an appreciation for the art of the perfume/fragrance.
I'll give Bosque another shot this week. The other fragrances are so good that I can't imagine that one being anything short of amazing too.
Ah thanks man! These little quick sniffs were written when my blog first started in January - it was pretty much when I was getting into the whole niche thing for reallll you know. I set the blog up more so I could remember my thoughts on every sample I tried... but it evolved hugely since then
Please do, fair enough if it's not your favourite of course, Skarb was my least favourite from what I tried - I guess it depends on what you're used to sniffing prior to them.
I just spent a few days with Bosque. It's a quality fragrance, no doubt. Truly unisex, inoffensive and perfect for anytime, weather or place.
I love it, but there are a few caveats. There are certain things I don't like about it, namely that it smells a bit generic, and it also smells like something I would use to clean my carpet. I hate saying that, but it's true. I might still buy a bottle one day, but it's hard to jump in when it costs so much.
In terms of what I smell in Bosque, I mostly get a kind of sweet and ozonic, bluish-green accord (like a gust of fresh air, violets or cucumber) mixed with the smell of new plastic, over buffalo grass and white musk. There are other really interesting facets, like a kind of milky skin smell and a touch of something salty. It's very clean, with nothing animalic, though it still has character and doesn't smell antiseptic. It's uber-soft ALL THE WAY through, with no harsh or sinus-tingling notes and everything is impeccably blended into one big soft, fresh and comforting accord. It smells to me like a pillow that my girlfriend would sleep on after washing her hair with some fresh cucumber-scented shampoo.
I wore it for 3 days in a row, a testament to how interesting it is to me, but I'm still left undecided about it. I really suggest trying it if you like modern, fresh and airy scents that don't offend. For those looking for fragrances that make a big statement, I'd suggest Askew, Blask or Skarb over Bosque in a heartbeat.
Loved reading your thoughts L'Aventurier - it's wierd, your review sounds so negative but you still say you like it and find it interesting. That's rare.
I completely understand what you're getting at in saying that it is completely smooth. The natural opening of dried grass and that milky sunshine cucumber smell is purely joyous to me, generic? - I have smelt nothing like it, but it does go a bit cleaning product-ish, but it's wierd becuase there's no citurs which would be the usual association.
As for the challenging aspects, I find the metallic salty "semen" like accord in the base the challenging part - it is so unexpected and flies up out of nowhere. The advertising images for this scent fit it perfectly:
I do find the fragrance is almost sepia toned. And there's this bizarre dirty musky sexuality underneath the fresh accords up top that bring to mind in construction (but not scent) to S-Ex by S-Perfume with it's calone over musk and leather. It's got that huge contrast in it but is created so that it is seamless and almost unsurprising.
Of course I'm not trying to force my opinion on you, your description is spot on. I think I will end up with a bottle one day as well. Personally it's my favourite in the line (but I haven't tried Eau Radieuse, Blask or Clemency). I'm thrilled you gave it a second chance and some good wearings
Loving the conversation here.
Just as a random aside, for anyone who likes Eau Radieuse but finds it too expensive, do give (and don't laugh!) Derek Jeter Driven by Avon a try (the original, with the blue juice). I got a sample of Driven by a friend whose mother is an Avon lady, and immediately upon trying it thought of Eau Radieuse, despite not knowing the notes of Driven. After looking them up, it makes a lot of sense - it shares citrus, bamboo, mint and rhubarb notes. Driven's dry down is a bit different, going a bit 'cooler' and woodier while Eau Radieuse stays warmer and has more of a sense of space throughout, but they are close enough that if you like one you'll probably like the other, and then it's just worth seeing which one you like more.
I do like Eau Radieuse a bit more thanks to the differences in the dry down, but there are things I prefer about Driven, too, such as its lesser projection, and toned down citrus elements in the early stages.
I was just participating over on a Bond No. 9 thread and it occurred to me that while I don't wear much from either house, they're almost opposites.
- H&G are conceptual perfumes, designed to be wearable (not by many, perhaps) but provide a story with each wearing.
- Bond are proletarian and meant to be sprayed, sort of olfactory paint, though their colors are bright -- garish? -- indeed.
- H&G seem to release new perfume about 1x/year?
- Bond have released about a dozen in the past 18 mo
- H&G: classic, understated visual design
- Bond: loud, brash visual design
- H&G: appeals to the aesthete?
- Bond: appeals to the status-obsessed?
Bond is kitsch. There, I said it. I also wear 1 Bond and 0 H&G's. What does that say about me...
MonkeyBars, I wouldn't get too analytic about it in terms of what it says about you hahah
Bond has some great scents, and although I think there's a lot of rubbish released per year, they've prob got as many gems as Humiecki and Graef (overall).
On a side note, I spent some time with Askew, and although I love the way it smells, it kind of grates on me. It's super "spiky," like the fragrant equivalent of a metal workshop, full of sparks and the smell of iron being grinded with iron. I don't think it's very wearable for me, even though I like the idea it presents. I also think that, it's a better deal to just buy Abercrombie and Fitch's Fierce, as they share the same metallic, bitter cedar basenotes. I do prefer and appreciate Askew, but it's similar enough to Fierce for me to buy a bottle of Fierce instead.
I'm still really enjoying Skarb and Bosque (surprise, surprise!) though. I'd have to say those are my favorites, with Blask not far behind.