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  1. #1

    Default My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    So I blind bought a whole bottle of Mouchoir de Monsieur last week and it showed up yesterday. I was trying to find an older bottle, and was hoping that the older bottles would be the easier ones to find, but beautyencounter sent me a new one anyway (I've been tricked by that dreaded gold generic box more than a few times as of late). It was manufactured in Feb 2011 according to the batch code. Is this the one people said was horrible?

    Anyway, I have heard a lot about newer versions of this fragrance, about it lasting as long as an eau de cologne, about it being cleaned of its civet, and other unpleasant things that come with the reformulation of a product that doesn't sell well enough to keep it in stock. This made me kind of pissed but I'm way too curious to send back a bottle, so I wore it.

    Oh my god.

    My Mouchoir de Monsieur is still magical. My version does contain a civet note, though nowhere near as much as other people have pointed out. As far as longevity goes, I can still smell its vanillic charm over 13 hours after my initial application, though it was light throughout, and noticeably drops off a bit after 5 hours, essentially becoming a skin scent. It actually is very similar to my 70s habit rouge eau de cologne in its lasting power(which is pretty intense!). However, I do feel as though the eau de toilette label may be a bit inflated, because this is very, very similar in strength to an eau de cologne(but with longer than average lasting power).

    The scent itself is fantastic. The opening is a beautifully classic bergamot/English lavender accord that totally reminds me of my grandmother's linen closet, little bars of Yardley soap hiding in the meticulously ironed folds. This of course changes rather quickly into this lovely fresh earthy, rooty vanillic lavender thing that lasts for quite a while. This stage, sniffed up close, really does give an impression of soiled diapers. It is surprisingly non-linear for this type of scent, and there is a lot at work. The drydown is part guerlinade, part ambery softness with an intense rooty note. It is utterly sublime, and I actually like it way better on me that Shalimar EDT, which has a similar drydown. It has a lot of similarities with Shalimar EDT, though it is certainly very different and not as dark. It's introspective, and reminds me of the smell of waking up in the morning dew after sleeping outside; fresh, moist earth, flower buds, and a little sweat. Fantastic.

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Glad you have had a good experience. It's a great fragrance in any form IMO.

  3. #3

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    The current is still great. I'm fine with it. The vintage in the big square bottle lasts a bit longer, but not earthshakingly so. I think I like the top notes in the new even better, but the base of the vintage is richer. All in all, one of probably two Guerlains as per today (the other being Vol de Nuit Extrait) that is still available in pretty much all of its glory.

  4. #4

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    I fully agree with previous posts: MDM is a richly fulfilling, highly structured and textured scent, with various facets rewardingly highlighting almost any distinctive fragrance note, so that one can hardly decide what is more to like about this scent- the stunning individual notes or the balance and harmony of their composition

  5. #5

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Everyone I know thinks it smells terrible, though.

  6. #6

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    lovingta,
    Thanks for the great write-up. I have been looking to try MdM for some time, since I am a big fan of Guerlain, and it is said to be similar to Jicky, a favorite. You've made me want to order a fb blind, but I will hold off until next month, since I'm taking a trip to Disney in Orlando, and I hear they have a Guerlain boutique. Any other Guerlains I should be looking for? (I buy both "female" and "male" designated scents.)

  7. #7

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by carolina girl View Post
    lovingta,
    Thanks for the great write-up. I have been looking to try MdM for some time, since I am a big fan of Guerlain, and it is said to be similar to Jicky, a favorite. You've made me want to order a fb blind, but I will hold off until next month, since I'm taking a trip to Disney in Orlando, and I hear they have a Guerlain boutique. Any other Guerlains I should be looking for? (I buy both "female" and "male" designated scents.)
    Mouchoir de Monsieur is like halfway between Jicky EDT and Shalimar EDT.

    Epcot does, and you have to pay admission to get in, and they aren't really that good, though they think they are the best. They have a very limited selection and like to pretend it's because Guerlain discontinues everything in America even though Bergdorf Goodman store has everything and can get whatever they don't have. I'd be a little surprised if they had mouchoir de monsieur, to be honest.

    I'd try all the classics if they're available.

    L'Heure Bleue may just be my favorite Guerlain scent but I've only smelled the Eau de Toilette version and it's absolutely fantastic on both sexes IMO. I'm in an interesting predicament, because it's a total risk that I may like the EDP less if I ordered it, even though most people seem to think that the eau de toilette is garbage compared to the EDP and extrait.

    Heritage is also sublime.

  8. #8

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    Everyone I know thinks it smells terrible, though.
    It's a bit of an acquired taste perhaps. I wasn't too keen when I first sampled it, about 18 months ago. The opening civet blast I found off-putting. I thought 'Mouchoir' must be French for napkin (diaper). However, I kept coming back to it, and now that my nose has acclimatised to it, I love it. The civet soons settles down into something inoffensive - radiating a warm sensuality. Incidentally I get about 8 hours from 4 or 5 sprays, it is more than an EDC on me.

    My bottle's batch number is 1P01, manufactured Feb 11. I didn't notice any obvious difference to the sample, which pre-dates this, but I might re-test that some time.

  9. #9

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    Everyone I know thinks it smells terrible, though.
    It's the opening that is a bugspray-like blast to some. It has been commented on me. I enjoy it however. I really spray lavishly in order to enjoy the drydown more. It's a very 'sexy' smell on skin after about 30-45 minutes. It rocks my world more than Jicky, neither concentration and vintage of which lasts longer on me than MdM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    If you enjoy MdM, then trying (and also enjoying Jicky) is a must!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  11. #11

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Own it, love it. Lots of compliments when I wear it. From 1904, it makes feel sophisticated and worldly, even if I'm just hanging around the house in grungy jeans and a flannel shirt. No wardrobe is complete without it, IMO.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    nice descriptive text ... enjoy your Mouchoir de Monsieur !! ... others may or may not share your enthusiasm - c'est la vie ...

  13. #13

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    It's interesting, when I asked everyone what they thought of it yesterday, they didn't like it much. Today, I went out to lunch with my girlfriend and someone else that didn't like it yesterday. He said, "Someone smells really, really good." I thought it might be my girlfriend, who was wearing Womanity, so I asked what it smelled like. He said "I don't know, like a creamy vanilla smell."

    I had no idea it projected at all, and now I learn that its sillage is attractive whereas the close-up isn't quite as nice to others. It is a subtle fragrance, but it is positively wonderful. Delicate and ornate.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marais View Post
    It's a bit of an acquired taste perhaps. I wasn't too keen when I first sampled it, about 18 months ago. The opening civet blast I found off-putting. I thought 'Mouchoir' must be French for napkin (diaper). However, I kept coming back to it, and now that my nose has acclimatised to it, I love it. The civet soons settles down into something inoffensive - radiating a warm sensuality. Incidentally I get about 8 hours from 4 or 5 sprays, it is more than an EDC on me.

    My bottle's batch number is 1P01, manufactured Feb 11. I didn't notice any obvious difference to the sample, which pre-dates this, but I might re-test that some time.
    My bottle is from the same batch. Do re-test, I'd like to know what I may or may not be missing!
    Last edited by lovingthealien; 7th January 2012 at 09:14 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    MdM regardless of batch is a true gem that truly harks back to the Belle Epoch era c. 1900. Fragrances like this probably only come around once a century.

  15. #15

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    It's interesting, when I asked everyone what they thought of it yesterday, they didn't like it much. Today, I went out to lunch with my girlfriend and someone else that didn't like it yesterday. He said, "Someone smells really, really good." I thought it might be my girlfriend, who was wearing Womanity, so I asked what it smelled like. He said "I don't know, like a creamy vanilla smell."
    May I wonder, Lovingthealien, how many hours after application you received that doubtless pleasant comment?

  16. #16

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    I finally was able to sample my vial of this the other day. I can say I really like it as well. Much preferable to me than Jicky. I find Jicky to short lived, whereas MdM is like slow motion. I always get crazy excited over a fragrance I enjoy sampling, but it really would be cool to have a fragrance made from 1904.
    Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Nicole Miller (vintage), Opium pour Homme, Oxford & Cambridge, Concentré D'Orange Verte...etc.

    Seeking decant/sample of Jil Sander Feeling Man, Cacharel Nemo, Bijan for Men EDC, Lanvin for Men, Giorgio VIP, Il Lancetti and other old school frags ....etc. I have samples to swap.

    More HERE
    Please PM me !

  17. #17

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by Merely View Post
    May I wonder, Lovingthealien, how many hours after application you received that doubtless pleasant comment?
    It was about 2 hours. I was still getting compliments around 4 hours after application today, too. Maybe the spray on the clothes did it? I was smelling it myself on a long drive home again, well over 8 hours after application. It really does linger much better than one would think.

    I really do love it. It's like a second skin on me.

  18. #18

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    A firm favourite of mine (along with jicky parfum).
    Don't worry about 2011 batch codes and reformulations: Thanks to a certain BNer, I have a sample of some quite vintage MdM. I also have a couple of slightly older bottles containing darker coloured juice which I've been meaning to test side-by-side with the current formulation. For sure, the fragrance has changed somewhat, but it is still enitrely recognisable as Mouchoir de Monsieur, and is still a wonderful, wonderful scent. Enjoy!

  19. #19

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    My bottle is from the same batch. Do re-test, I'd like to know what I may or may not be missing!
    6 hours into a R arm/L arm test and I haven't detected any sigificant difference at any stage. I suspect you have go further back than 2010 before you find the 'stronger' stuff. Anyway, I'm happy with mine

  20. #20

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    I am very happy with mine, but there's always that weird feeling that I got ripped off when they show me a different box. I read that Heritage wasn't good in current formulation, but it's stunning.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    I too went a bit gaga over MdM when I first smelled it.

    Mind you, I had already prior to this, fell in love with Shalimar and Jicky, so the Guerlain-DNA was already in my blood. I always found Jicky EdT a bit too powdery and the EdP overtly animalic, so it was perfect timing for me 'find' MdM just in time. In my thread from 2009 I called it 'quiet and silent' and while I still agree that it is quiet it is (as I've come to understand) not silent...this stuff lasts ALL day when applied liberally.

    I wouldn't worry about the fact that you got a 'new' bottle lovingthalien...if you love it just enjoy it. The bottles of vintage MdM I have spotted (rarely) on eBay usually inch up to about $200+ for the tiny 30 ml bottles. So if you plan on acquiring some, be prepared to pay high prices.

    And, as Primrose suggests above, please try Jicky. I love the parfum and the hard-to-find disco'd EdC.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  22. #22

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    The scent itself is fantastic. The opening is a beautifully classic bergamot/English lavender accord that totally reminds me of my grandmother's linen closet, little bars of Yardley soap hiding in the meticulously ironed folds. This of course changes rather quickly into this lovely fresh earthy, rooty vanillic lavender thing that lasts for quite a while. This stage, sniffed up close, really does give an impression of soiled diapers. It is surprisingly non-linear for this type of scent, and there is a lot at work. The drydown is part guerlinade, part ambery softness with an intense rooty note. It is utterly sublime, and I actually like it way better on me that Shalimar EDT, which has a similar drydown. It has a lot of similarities with Shalimar EDT, though it is certainly very different and not as dark. It's introspective, and reminds me of the smell of waking up in the morning dew after sleeping outside; fresh, moist earth, flower buds, and a little sweat. Fantastic.
    I'm about a half hour into the sample you sent me. I actually found this thread by searching for "mouchoir diapers" Glad to know I am at least not alone in finding that accord a bit of a hurdle. It seems to be transitioning into something a little more vanillic now. I wish the civet had lasted longer. No idea at this point what my relationship will be to this frag, but I can see why people enjoy it.

  23. #23

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    I'm about a half hour into the sample you sent me. I actually found this thread by searching for "mouchoir diapers" Glad to know I am at least not alone in finding that accord a bit of a hurdle. It seems to be transitioning into something a little more vanillic now. I wish the civet had lasted longer. No idea at this point what my relationship will be to this frag, but I can see why people enjoy it.

    LOL at the "diaper" description, Brian! Yes, the opening is a bit tough with a big bunch of civet. I found this very hard at first, but I remembered the whole experience with a fragracne is the drydown. I was rewarded with the beautiful elegance in the end.

    MdM is a classic and I adore it.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  24. #24

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Do try it on linen; I tend to prefer it thus than on skin, where I find it can become a little fussily ornate and sweet. It is forever a perfectly legitimate excuse to wear a pocket square - 'My perfume demanded it!' And indeed, dousing one's handkerchief in it really will subtly envelope one in its scent for a long time.

    How wonderful its civet is. At no point is it overbearing. I agree with Mikeperez about Mouchoir de Monsieur's longevity, and imagine that the civet may be in good part responsible for this. I rather dislike Guerlain's tendency to combine citrus and vanilla, as the accord - or rather the sustained antithesis - is jarring and, in my opinion, unharmonious. Habit Rouge is another of their scents with this 'curdled' accord. So I do wish Mouchoir de Monsieur had less citrus.

    In any case, Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of the greatest fragrances in French perfumery.

  25. #25

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    One of my favorite perfumes of all time. I have never gotten tired of this one.

  26. #26

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    While I honestly prefer Jicky (in all its diluitions) over MdM, I still find the latter to be a stunning example of a dandified masculine from the beginning of the century. The debate regarding the stronger animalic presence in MdM is still open but, personally, I realized that I reach my decant of MdM when I'm not in the mood for the strong civet note of Jicky (which happens VERY rarely).


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  27. #27

    Default Re: My first date with Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    Thanks for your contributions, guys! I still love it and wear it too often! I find that no matter how many new fancy fragrances I get, I'm always reaching for Guerlain fragrances first. They are a small star steadily twinkling in the dark, lifeless void of perfumery.

    Mouchoir de Monsieur, it's okay that you smell a little like diapers. Your opening is like veiled beauty, and your drydown is like sleeping in the shade of an old tree, its whispers of ancient wisdom becoming decipherable only to those who lie still and listen carefully. Few scents comfort me in the way you do.

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