Based on your description I think you would like Chanel Cuir De Russie.
After reading about Cuir Cordoba by Keiko Mecheri I am revisiting my search for a leather fragrance that is suitable for me. Specifically that means a nice floral/leather combination. I'm going to try a sample of Cuir Cordoba soon. The black violet note with leather intrigues me. Anything else I should be aware of? I liked Royal Delight by Creed for example (and while I'm no dandy I've never been self-conscious about giving things like this a go anyway) and that has leather too but I'm not sure that counts in my mind as a true leather scent. I'm thinking of something where the leather actually is defining of the entire composition but with strong complimentary floral notes. Knize ten was good but I'm already aware of that one (I'd like to have a good grasp of what exactly my options are in this genre). Anyway thanks everyone I'm sort of leather ignorant when it comes to colognes.
Last edited by autumngleeman; 19th January 2012 at 08:17 AM.
Based on your description I think you would like Chanel Cuir De Russie.
Derby is my favourite leather; the florals are not overdone and it is decidedly masculine. Whether it is floral enough for you I am not sure.
I haven't tried the vintage, I only have the latest (well, the last of the bee bottle lot before the square bottles). However, most reviewers don't see a huge amount of difference. Mine is perfect for me, anyhow.
Cuir de Lancome -
Van cleef & Arpels pour homme.
I feel that Cuir de Russie may be the best floral leather in existence. Beware of the civet (not a great amount), if you don't like a certain dirtiness.
Tabac Blond is a thick, dense leather with some tobacco, smoke - and a lot of iris and Egyptian rose. Truly excellent.
Another good floral leather, as others have already stated, is Derby by Guerlain. It's like a green floral leather.
Last edited by Grottola; 19th January 2012 at 10:55 AM.
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Aramis New West (preferably old bottle)
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Cuir Pleine Fleur by Heeley
+1 Cuir Ottoman. My most recent purchase and THE best, sexiest leather/suede with powdery iris. Fantastic stuff.
Definitely Gomma + 1
IMO, the best floral leather is Eau d'Hèrmes
+2 for Gomma (great scent)
It was a calculated risk. Unfortunately, I'm bad at math.
cuir pleine fleur has quite a few raves from people I respect, but I can't smell it very much, so I won't pass judgement but advise trying it.
cuir lancome vintage cabochard and bandit are great suggestions. I find knize ten floral as well.
last but definitely not the least, is ocean rain by mario valentino. floral and leather in an incredible composition. great stuff, but far from being a crowd pleaser.
Repeating some suggestions. For a bold one, Bandit, very strong, green, in your face.
For superplush smooth suede, Cuir de Russie (the edt is more floral, the parfum is smoother and more skin like).
Derby is great too, though it is not primarily a leather to my nose, but a woody-citrus with leather. I don't smell big differences between vintage and current.
The reference violet leather used to be Jolie Madame, but the current version is nowhere near as good as the vintage.
Another for Derby
Yes, Heely for a nice floral leather. I would also recommend Cuir Ottoman Cuir De Russie for softer leathers. Noteworthy masculines are Gueralin Derby and Puredistance M.
Some good suggestions there.
If you like your leather with a little more floral, try Tubereuse Animale by Histoires de Parfums - a stylised tuberose with leathery undertones.
Cuir de Russie and vintage Cabochard
Cuir Ottoman is a perfect leather for a foral lover - smooth leather, overt iris, jasmine undertone.
A recently discontinued gem is DS & Durga's $, a bold jasmine-leather with a musk drydown.
Cuir Pleine Fleur is a pleasing mimosa-violet-birch but is more earthy than really leathery.
i would add Dzing! - leather, sawdust + iris and caramel\ Dzongkha - peony, leather, incense, vetiver
The Gap The Original - though it's more a fruity leather than a floral leather.
Know what - perfume is dandy anyway. If You dare You could try Balmain - Jolie Madame. That one has a very dry rasping leather / violet aroma.
If You tend to frippery despite being a non-dandy, what about S-Ex? I like it very much. It has a pee note that I would clearly would file under 'leather'. Leather once was made using - literally! - human feces. From that the famous saying comes: "Pecunia non olet." which exactly reflects the importance of pee for preparing leather - look it up, pal Today the relevant components are isolated or substituted. Hence my suggestion to go for chemical, incorporated by Bandit.
Vintage YSL Jazz
Knize Ten Golden Edition which is a step up from the original.
Spanish Leather by Geo F. Trumper
Aoud cuir d'arabie.
Lot's of great suggestions, will support the Chanel Cuir de Russie, Cuir de Lancome, Dzing!, Cuir Ottoman and Cuir Pleine Fleur suggestions, but must add
Cuir d'Iris by Parfumerie Generale, one of my favorites, and also the new one from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Cuir Fetiche. The latter one is like a blast from the past meets a moder leather. It's very nice!
Currently looking for Ava Luxe Midnight Violet
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But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
thanks guys for making the job so much easier. I knew i could count on you all! I've tried some of your suggestions and I haven't tried others. I'm going to get a bunch of samples from your suggestions tomorrow. Hopefully I come away with a leather fit for my tastes and fill a hole in my collection in the process. I'll let you know how Cuir Cordoba goes too. I really hope that one works, I like the note pyramid.
An other leather with an inherent flowery contrast:
leather from saffraleine, quite chemical and soft, aldehydes give a nice counterpoint feeling natural (go figure!) and fresh. The dry down is a conventional high quality floral.
An honest fragrance, to me by far more respectable than many 'natural' smelling concoctions.
But I'm pretty sure the public will go - and righteous so - for a more conventional fragrance. Despite the CdG (and Bandit too, to some degree) being spot on the original description, people tend to go 'classic' if money is involved. CdG doesn't radiate enough 'value'. (No offense here, just an observation!)
Eau de Cuir de Russie (Le Jardin Retrouvé):
LOVE Cuir Ottoman and Boxeuse on my DH, they don't work for me but make me crazy when he wears them
Don't think anyone has yet mentioned Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. The dominant floral note to my nose is orange blossom, which I associate with great masculines like PdN New York.
'...And you'll carry me down on your dancing
To the pools that you lift on your wrist...'
I think the CdG is a good continuation to Knitze10 and Bandit. The leather seems to be less worn and dirty. The flowers are cleaner, less sexy. All in all it seems to be more emblematic "what is the smell X like" than literally "making You smell as X" - whatever that means.
I personally wouldn't like to smell as leather. In my olfactory universe leather is an off note. That for I like the tar-soap rendition of Safraleine in Tom Of Finland more.
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Eau Sauvage Fraiche Cuir
Transforms gently from leather into a beautiful floral over a 6 ~ 8 hour period. I don't know how it manages to do this. Most perfumes encorperate leather in the basenotes, but this one works the other way round. Really worth trying !
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I agree with David -
Bel Ami...my oh my, what an incredible and deep fragrance. It never loses its rich and plush leather or wood, but it does get florals in the deep heart. There are layers here that are so unimaginable in today's creations.
Another scent that I don't see much (or any?) mention of is the wonderful Vintage Azzaro Acteur! A fantastic composition with a slightly wilted, rich red/burgundy rose of amazing depth, a boozy vibe on top, rich oakmoss (Vintage!) and a plush leather note that is secondary only to the unique, not-so-fresh rose note.
It is also amazingly inexpensive but Acteur gets a standing ovation for quality. Perhaps, the best ever fragrance from the house...yes, at times I feel it even surpasses Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme.
“Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”
― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen
All of the best floral leathers have been mentioned -
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Cuir Pleine Fleur
Cuir de Lancome (most floral)