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Thread: Guerlain Derby

  1. #1

    Default Guerlain Derby

    Forgive me if I am late to the party, but why is Derby not generally available and extremely expensive?

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I bought a bottle many years ago when it was part of their regular release line. Then I believe it was discontinued and resurfaced later as part of their Les Parisiennes line which is an exclusive line I believe at a higher price point. Don't know why this happened though. Others, I'm sure can shed more light on this.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Perhaps, as it often happens, when something's not a big seller, but appeals to a few discerning people, companies cut back and move the product to the more expensive lines. Department store space is expensive, so companies only keep there the few best sellers.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    ...it is said Guerlain will keep it exclusive. They're probably right: imo Derby is rather nice but really nothing special...a bit dull wet hair smell; nevertheless it sells better than when it was released in 1985...!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    you know what though, when I looked at the official Guerlain website, Derby is not mentioned among their fragrances. Not even under the exclusives. I'm beginning to wonder if it actually has been discontinued...again apparently, from what hednic said. I just checked the Guerlain website and once again, nothing. Maybe it's getting a new bottle? But surely it would be mentioned if it was still in production.
    Last edited by autumngleeman; 1st February 2012 at 05:03 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by vulgarrhymester View Post
    you know what though, when I looked at the official Guerlain website, Derby is not mentioned among their fragrances. Not even under the exclusives. I'm beginning to wonder if it actually has been discontinued...again apparently, from what hednic said. I just checked the Guerlain website and once again, nothing. Maybe it's getting a new bottle? But surely it would be mentioned if it was still in production.
    http://www.guerlain.com/int/en/base....les-parisiens/

    -- See page 2

  7. #7

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by vulgarrhymester View Post
    you know what though, when I looked at the official Guerlain website, Derby is not mentioned among their fragrances. Not even under the exclusives. I'm beginning to wonder if it actually has been discontinued...again apparently, from what hednic said. I just checked the Guerlain website and once again, nothing. Maybe it's getting a new bottle? But surely it would be mentioned if it was still in production.
    Mistake!

    http://www.guerlain.com/int/en/base....les-parisiens/

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    oops, you are right trauerkraut and pluran. Also, for those in the United States, apparently select Neiman Marcus Stores carry it (in case anyone reading was curious about where they could find it). I was told Atlanta, Northpark and Houston stores. I confirmed this by calling one of the stores. here is a number for the Northpark store: 1800-756-5784, ext 2522. 3.4 fl. oz, around $240. They will ship of course. Or Guerlain boutiques, if there is one nearby. I'm sorry this doesn't help you though brescd01.
    Last edited by autumngleeman; 1st February 2012 at 05:26 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Hmmm I fnd it to be readily available and reasonably priced.

    for swap/sale:





  10. #10

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I never tested this, so I cant really comment about it. But i do have a sample on the way

  11. #11

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    It's available for those who really want it, but the shit's 250 bucks a bottle now. Ridiculous.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by vulgarrhymester View Post
    you know what though, when I looked at the official Guerlain website, Derby is not mentioned among their fragrances. Not even under the exclusives. I'm beginning to wonder if it actually has been discontinued...again apparently, from what hednic said. I just checked the Guerlain website and once again, nothing. Maybe it's getting a new bottle? But surely it would be mentioned if it was still in production.
    Websites are not always the latest sources of information.

    IMO, Guerlain's Derby, even in the new version, is a very understated classic.

    Too bad the bee bottle is now history. It has been replace with an ugly wooden monstrosity that is not consistent with the timeless elegance of the scent.

    I would agree that it is more for the discerning buyer and not for the general scent-buying public. Just like Apres l'Ondee, one has to search for it or ask for it, or buy from boutiques.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I agree that it is more for discerning buyers than the average guy. The lack of mainstream popularity keeps it's widespread availability down. Personally I love it.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Derby is only available in the US from Bergdorg Goodman in NYC if I'm correct. I believe it's in extremely limited production (maybe the least-produced non-limited edition scent they offer; Arsene Lupin sells better!). You can order by phone.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingthealien View Post
    Derby is only available in the US from Bergdorg Goodman in NYC if I'm correct. I believe it's in extremely limited production (maybe the least-produced non-limited edition scent they offer; Arsene Lupin sells better!). You can order by phone.
    The Guerlain boutique at the Palazzo in Vegas might carry it, but they no longer have the bee bottle, sadly. You may wish to call them at 1-866-409-6110. You may also order by phone.

    The Bergdorf number for Guerlain is 1-800-558-1855 x 2734.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Seems to be available at Saks Fifth Ave, but not if you go directly to the website. Found an ad using a Google search:

    http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/...er=GGLPRADS001

  17. #17

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The vintage version of Derby, if well kept, is a much better fragrance with considerably more lasting power than the current issue. It was around $3 per ml (eBay) until just a few months ago.

    Martin

  18. #18

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I am just enjoying the bee bottle of this scent. I am dismayed to find the new version in the wooden bottle has been altered to be more "citrusy."

    Has anyone tried the newest stuff?

    The older Derby was a wonderful leather chypre.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I got mine at Guerlain Las Vegas (in the bee bottle) a few years ago...was underwhelmed by it--nice, but not WOW, and not my style, so I sold it here.
    I retained a few milliliters, and revisit it periodically, but my opinion never seems to shift.
    I actually found it a bit 'old lady-ish' in the drydown! Weird, huh?

  20. #20
    Basenotes Junkie BurgundyMarsh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    It is my understanding that Derby is now officially available only by going physically to the Guerlain store in Paris. I've seen the occasional bottle from a third party on-line for a gigantic price. I have made inquiries to various retailers with no results.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Neiman-Marcus in San Francisco had a tester in the bee bottle this past weekend. I didn't inquire about stock.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I believe the Guerlain counter at Harrods (London) has it... at least they did when I was there in April. I sniffed it there and loved it, but came home with Arsene Lupin Dandy instead which really was a love affair, though I'm told the new formulation isn't a patch on the old one.

  23. #23
    Basenotes Junkie BurgundyMarsh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Swanky View Post
    Neiman-Marcus in San Francisco had a tester in the bee bottle this past weekend. I didn't inquire about stock.
    I've asked about it in the Neiman Marcus in Boston and they don't carry it, nor does the downtown Saks. It does seem you can order it from the Saks website at $245US. Could be they are doing a little relaunch with that hideous bottle. It would seem pointless to create a new bottle if they weren't going to distribute it.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I own five bottles of vintage Derby, three in the wide, ribbed bottle sometime described as the "eagle" bottle, and two in the tall rectangular bottle common to vintage Vetiver and Habit Rouge.

    I found these at prices well under $100 per bottle, which is considerably less than what the current version sells for. It might require some work and patience, but good deals can be found. I haven't tried the current version. I do not find the vintage versions to be all that powerful, and wouldn't expect the current one to be, either.

    Why is availability limited? My guess is that it wasn't selling well enough to be kept on the general market, but there was enough interest by aficionados to offer it as part of a special line produced in smaller amounts.

  25. #25

    Default Guerlain Derby

    Hey guys - what's similar to Derby?

  26. #26
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Pretty unique IMO.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I've tried desperately to get past the powder bomb to enjoy the other notes. This one just hasn't clicked with me yet (ducks for cover)...

  28. #28

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    According to Luca Turin, ELdO Je suis un homme. To be honest, the similarity to my nose isn't that strong. But both are wonderful.

    cacio

  29. #29

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I know what doesn't smell like Derby. Derby. If you like Derby don't bother with Derby. It's nothing like itself (anymore)

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I think that if you stuck Derby into a "modernizer", it would come out as Tom Ford Extreme. I know a lot of people will find that relationship tenuous, but there is a certain elegance that goes from Paris to New York City and from the ballroom to the ritzy rave when you go from Derby to Extreme.

    I also think that, among classics, Caron Troisieme Homme has certain strong similarities. It's more floral, and less chypre, but there is a smoky streak that links them in their elegance.

    But I have not found anything quite like Derby, so I had to buy it.
    * * * *

  31. #31

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    to me it smells very green and 80's... kind of a more refined polo green... Amouage Memoir Man...
    My Top 10

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  32. #32
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by change1 View Post
    to me it smells very green and 80's... kind of a more refined polo green... Amouage Memoir Man...
    Yes! There is a nice resemblance to Polo green.
    * * * *

  33. #33

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Knize Ten
    Xerjoff Homme

  34. #34

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by tehtimmeh View Post
    I've tried desperately to get past the powder bomb to enjoy the other notes. This one just hasn't clicked with me yet (ducks for cover)...

    I love the powder. And the contrast with the leather. If it wasn't for the powder I wouldn't wear it.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I agree with Duke, Xerjoff Homme is the closest but its really not anywhere near as good as a decent/vintage bottle of Guerlain Derby.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    To my nose, Hermes Equipage is very close - but I know some people here disagree.
    I think it depends on which notes in Derby your brain singles out. To mine, Equipage is a match.
    Worth a sample/decant in any case!

  37. #37

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    In my little knowledge i find that only Habit Rouge share some resemblances, in the Parfum Version, but only in the drydown.
    Derby is chypre with a very different opening that i dont even can describe. Maybe aldehydes?

  38. #38

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    There are accords in the original Xeryus that share great similarities with Derby IMO. However, as Hednic stated, it is quite unique. It stands alone for its quality.
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  39. #39
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Old, new or whatever Derby, I find it to be a great fragrance.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I agree on Je Suis Un Homme (minus the powder). Why Are you looking for something similar? I'm genuinely curious...


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  41. #41

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    How about Aramis JHL?

  42. #42

  43. #43

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I agree! Maybe Equipage feels a little colder and has more carnation but it is the closest match for me so far.


    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
    To my nose, Hermes Equipage is very close - but I know some people here disagree.
    I think it depends on which notes in Derby your brain singles out. To mine, Equipage is a match.
    Worth a sample/decant in any case!
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

    My swap thread

  44. #44

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Somewhere between Equipage, Knize Ten and the green original Polo maybe?

  45. #45
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    For smell it's subjective but for overall feel there's congruence with Diorling, Jules and Fahrenheit. I'm talking about the original formulations in all of them. It's interesting to note that Jean-Paul Guerlain considered Fahrenheit to be one of the best masculine fragrances ever made.

    The original Derby was heavy on natural costus (the antithesis of clean), a complex animalic ingredient loved by both Guerlains, Edmond Roudnitska and many others. It's responsible for the wet hair note in Derby, but it's also responsible for a lot of other things. It's hard to make great fragrances without natural animalics, and natural ingredients in general. The IFRA did away with natural costus in the mid-90's. You can smell the synthetic version in the new Derby but due to IFRA restrctions on bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss and a million other things, it's hardly the same fragrance. Still better than most, though. :-)
    Last edited by pluran; 1st September 2012 at 04:55 AM.

  46. #46
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The closest i know is the original (1976) Gucci pour Homme. I own both and find them very similar, but the Gucci may be hard to find since it is discontinued.

    See these enlightening comparative reviews here and here.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

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  47. #47

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Is $300 really the current price of Derby?!

  48. #48
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckW View Post
    Is $300 really the current price of Derby?!
    $245.00 ar Saks.

    http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/...45524446495108

  49. #49

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by perfaddict View Post
    The closest i know is the original (1976) Gucci pour Homme. I own both and find them very similar, but the Gucci may be hard to find since it is discontinued.
    This is a good call. Yes, it's hard to find but, at the same time if you have some patience you can score a bottle for resonably cheap. I paied mine no more than 30 bucks...seriosuly.


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  50. #50

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The first time I smelled it, I immediately thought of Equipage, but the relationship is mostly in the topnotes.

    MPG Parfum d'Habit shares some smooth leathery/green Derby qualities in the base.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  51. #51

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I get Equipage.

    I am mourning the bee bottle and so happy I bought a back-up bottle.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
    To my nose, Hermes Equipage is very close - but I know some people here disagree.
    I think it depends on which notes in Derby your brain singles out. To mine, Equipage is a match.
    Worth a sample/decant in any case!
    I absolutly agree with you I thought they are twins on the first spritz. But the drydown is different. For the first 1-2 hours you can hardly smell any difference.

  53. #53

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by neal View Post
    Hey guys - what's similar to Derby?
    I used to know the answer to that!

    Well, my answer at least:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/202...Response-9%29?

    (I also used to know how to hide the url with a text overlay - ahh, the mind - it is a terrible to waste. Hope everyone is doing well!)
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  54. #54
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Yeah, I agree with PLURAN on Jules by Christian Dior. I don't like either one though.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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  55. #55

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    natural costus (the antithesis of clean), a complex animalic ingredient
    It comes from a plant, though.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    guys, i am getting a chance at guerlain derby eagle bottle 100ml though slightly used one..its a spray bottle..only one thing is confusing me.. eau de toilette is directly written under Derby in front of the bottle...i have tried searching the net but cant find any eagle bottle in 100ml size which is spray one and has eau de toilette directly written under Derby...everything looks authentic but this edt thing is confusing me..does anyone among you have or seen an eagle bottle in 100ml size with eau de toilette written directly under Derby and above Guerlain Paris

  57. #57

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    does any of your guerlain 'eagle' bottles have eau de toilette written directly under Derby on front of the bottles ?

    Quote Originally Posted by noggs View Post
    I own five bottles of vintage Derby, three in the wide, ribbed bottle sometime described as the "eagle" bottle, and two in the tall rectangular bottle common to vintage Vetiver and Habit Rouge.

    I found these at prices well under $100 per bottle, which is considerably less than what the current version sells for. It might require some work and patience, but good deals can be found. I haven't tried the current version. I do not find the vintage versions to be all that powerful, and wouldn't expect the current one to be, either.

    Why is availability limited? My guess is that it wasn't selling well enough to be kept on the general market, but there was enough interest by aficionados to offer it as part of a special line produced in smaller amounts.

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