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Thread: Oakmoss?

  1. #1
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    Question Oakmoss?

    I'm not new here, but I am a nivice at identifying notes, so I have two questions about oakmoss, to wit:

    •what do you think of Camden Grey, would this be a wise purchase?

    •If I were to get say 5 decants, which ones should I go for to get the full-on oakmoss experience? Do I stick to the chypre category? Vinage only?

    My inquiring nose wants to know.

    Thank you!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Hello,
    I’ve not shopped with Camden Grey so I can’t vouch for them one way or the other. However there are quite a few places you can buy Oakmoss absolute and you’ll get a fair idea of what it smells like from most: you only need the top quality stuff if you are going to make a fragrance with it.

    As to what to buy, certainly vintage Chypre will give you a good idea as it’s a key component of those (or was before IFRA made it so restricted that it was mostly replaced with synthetics).

    But don’t neglect the Fougère category, also based on oakmoss, but in this case in combination with lavender and coumarin. In my view some of the best interpretations of oakmoss are of this type. Also don’t forget that the very first fragrance of this type Fougère Royale, was also the first perfume known to use a synthetic (the coumarin) and has a pedigree going back to 1882: they have to be worth a look IMO.
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    Chris Bartlett
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    @Chris Bartlett: Thank you for such an informative reply. Not planning to make a fragrance with the oakmoss, just sniff it. Thanks also for suggesting fougere category; I had not thought of it perhaps because it's not typically female.

    I'm casting about for my "happy birthday to me" present—coming up next month—and was trying to decide between exploring a niche house and exploring a note. I'm thinking now note. I had sent out decants of my favorite fragrance inquiring about it's structure, Mollie Parnis, and got contradicting opinions, particularly as to whether it was a chypre. From there, exploring oakmoss struck me as a necessity to further educate my nose.

    Best regards,

    jujy
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    A good objective - should be fun too. Although Fougère has traditionally been regarded as exclusively masculine, you may find some of the aromatic Fougères with floral notes work for you.

    I’ve always been a bit doubtful about the fragrances being gender specific anyway . . .
    A person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person.”
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation I’m happy to quote: if you want free advice, that’s what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Likewise. Back in the early 80s, I wore Givenchy Gentleman as my go to work fragrance. I should scare some up again. Yatagan intrigues me, too (I lust for leather and civet).
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Well,I settled on oakmoss absolute (low atranol) diluted to 10% in fractionated cocnut oil from Nature's Gift. I went with the diluted because the full-strength sounded to sticky and hard to handle for a newbie like me. I'm getting Band-Aid + Marmite or Worcestershire sauce + wet leaves with a soupçon of "death by smelly sneakers"—more pleasant than it sounds. By itself, odd, but now I understand what makes a chypre a chypre.

    Later on, as I was taking a walk, I saw some lichen on an oak tree. Crumbled and sniffed, and recognized the earthiness of chypre.

    I also have two bottles of Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. She's the foundation.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    I'm getting Band-Aid + Marmite or Worcestershire sauce + wet leaves with a soupçon of "death by smelly sneakers"—more pleasant than it sounds.
    The pure absolute does rather resemble Marmite in color and texture as well, now you mention it

  8. #8

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    . . . Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. . .
    What a lovely turn of phrase - I might borrow that next time I’m writing on the subject

    Glad to know the project worked too.
    A person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person.”
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation I’m happy to quote: if you want free advice, that’s what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Is this still being used or have they gone synthetic?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    In high-end fragrances it is certainly still being used, although the IFRA restriction is quite severe at 0.1% of the finished product.

    What that means for my own retail products is that I use a combination of synthetics - there are a couple of good ones on the market - plus as much of the real thing as I’m able to put in. I think that approach is quite common in amongst indie perfumers but I don’t know whether the big houses prefer to simply go all synthetic.

    When working to a commission the client is king and can have whatever they want of course.
    A person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person.”
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation I’m happy to quote: if you want free advice, that’s what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Bartlett View Post
    In high-end fragrances it is certainly still being used, although the IFRA restriction is quite severe at 0.1% of the finished product.

    What that means for my own retail products is that I use a combination of synthetics - there are a couple of good ones on the market - plus as much of the real thing as I’m able to put in. I think that approach is quite common in amongst indie perfumers but I don’t know whether the big houses prefer to simply go all synthetic.

    When working to a commission the client is king and can have whatever they want of course.
    Oh ok thanks for the info. Are there any fragrances worth looking into with this note?

  12. #12

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Likewise. Back in the early 80s, I wore Givenchy Gentleman as my go to work fragrance. I should scare some up again. Yatagan intrigues me, too (I lust for leather and civet).
    most leather fragrances contained a good dose of oakmoss.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    I also have two bottles of Coty Chypre; she is like the mannequin upon which all other chypres are draped. She's the foundation.
    yes, that's it. :)

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