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  1. #1

    Default Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Hey guys, really hoping this isn't a duplicate thread. Don't know very much about scents, but after educating my nose a little more, I decided to give Angel Men another chance after writing it off the first time. I actually really love the dry down once I look past the sharp opening. Can anyone recommend scents that basically follow the same format? I'm dying to try musc ravageur. Any more recommendations? Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Most fragrances have an evolution over time, many of which have "sharp" citrus, herbs, or aldehydes in the top notes. Different chemicals evaporate at different rates, so that's why you get the difference over time. Good perfumers know how to manipulate these characteristics to create a perfume that evolves over time, creating coherent structures throughout the evolution of the scent.

    Some scents don't have this sort of evolution, though. Bulgari Black, for instance, has little in the way of top notes, and does not change significantly through its evaporation.

    Scents similar to A*Men? There are many sweet & herbal scents that follow the same general idea, but A*Men is positively unique. Here are some recommendations:

    A*Men Flankers (Pure Havane, Pure Coffee, Pure Malt) - You may like Pure Malt, as the top notes are far smoother and more rich.
    Idole Lubin - Soft sweet woody fragrance with subdued edible spices
    Heritage by Guerlain - sweet and rich oriental with a very angel-style patchouli accord.
    Rochas Man - S W E E T woody vanilla coffee beverage - warm and sensual, lightly musky
    Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - woody, nutty licorice confection. Delicious.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez - Welcome to the Twilight Zone !! The paltry, note listing belies the complexity of this fragrance. Initially, one is bombarded with a lovely, sweet and woodsy violet, whose brilliance is amplified by aldehydes, an amazing, wet concrete, a graceful wave of petrichor, that special smell of earth, caressed by raindrops after a dry spell, a flint smell and an intense mustiness from the patchouli. This surreal melange is enshrouded by a wet, foresty lushness, with flittering specks of flavorful licorice. The welcoming heart kidnaps the explosive opening and fosters its taming. Lovely violet leaves, with their inherent freshness, inspire an equisitely extreme, green aura akin to grass clippings with a shading of cucumber. Versatile patchouli imparts it nutty and earthy facets. Seductive amber, with its deep, somewhat woody and vanillic dimensions, and white musk, with its dirty sweetness add some powderiness to the blend. The robust base overtakes this humbling middle, where the multifaceted patchouli raises its faintly peppery and herbal heads as well as its mulch-like property. Dry cedar, pencil shavings as well as camphoraceous pine supply intriguing woods. And, evocative, animalic musk, where fecal pellets from critters as well as pubic sweat harmonize, contributes to the fantastical drydown. This extremely masculine and unique composition has very good projection, 4-5 hour scent cloud, and longevity, 7-12 hours - easy on the trigger is the catchphrase here. This atypical fragrance is not for the faint of heart.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    If you're looking for stuff with a rather drastic or at least quite noticeable change in direction from the top notes, I'd give a few of these a try;

    Musc Ravegeur by Frederic Malle
    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Andy Tauer
    Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdijan
    Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens
    Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens
    Ambra Aurea by Profumum

    Some of these openings are considerably rougher than others, but they all morph around quite a bit depending on where you apply them. If you're just starting out, be warned that not all of them might initially be something you'd be used to/want to smell like at the beginning, but if you give it a little bit of time, I think you could really appreciate some/all of them come dry down time.
    Last edited by Partario; 7th February 2012 at 10:48 AM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    You might enjoy L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme and Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree (CPMC). Both have citrusy opening, but CPMC is more spicy. Although their drydown is sweet/powdery, there's a unique difference and both maintain their masculinity, class, and elegance.

    I get a full work hours (8am-5pm) longevity - sometimes even longer - from both top quality well-blended fragrances without the need of reapplication at the middle of the day.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    +1 Musc Ravageur

    also Eau Noire
    Bulgari Black
    musc koblai khan.
    C&S n║88
    my current top five (always in transition)

    Dior Eau Noire
    HdP 1725 Casanova
    eau de gloire parfum d'empire
    Dia man Amouage
    comme des garšons man 2

  7. #7

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Creeds Bois Du Portugal - This has a really in your face astringent lavender opening that I find intolerable, though the smoky woody drydown is great.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Azzaro pH

  9. #9

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents


    Musc Ravegeur by Frederic Malle
    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Andy Tauer
    Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdijan
    No.88 by Czech & Speake
    Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens
    Egoiste by Chanel


    Plus these two spring to mind, although I'm not wild about them:

    The Dreamer by Versace
    Havana by Aramis

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Formidable Homme

  11. #11

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Musc Rav and Egoiste

  12. #12

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Musc Ravegeur
    A taste of fragrance
    Bvlgari Black
    Dior Fahrenheit

  13. #13
    Dependent
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    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Many of my collection have this characteristic, though they are all FAR less sweet than A*Men.

    Esencia Loewe
    Carven Vetiver Dry
    Halston Z-14 (pre 2011 formulation)
    Lomani pH
    Ungaro I

    Givenchy Xeryus
    Bogart Witness
    Caron Yatagan
    Zirh Ikon

  14. #14

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    I don't think Musc Ravageur has a sharp opening at all.
    But I'll +1 on Tubereuse Criminelle, that's the first one that came to mind when I read the title.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Green Irish Tweed opens a bit sharp, and sweetens up beautifully during the drydown. My favorite drydown along with A*Men.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    I get this feeling, I confess, from most of my favorite scents, including Rive Gauche PH - I find the opening a tad too soapy, too fresh, but the drydown makes up for everything, same thing goes for Versace l'Homme- too herbal at the first sniff, too "dark botanical" almost up to the point of being slightly "medicine-like", again, I am rewarded by a divine drydown

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Le Labo Oud 27

    Creed Tabarome Millesime

  18. #18

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Tom Ford for Men Extreme

  19. #19

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Amouage Ciel has this super sour-floral accord of Rose, Geranium, Bergamot, and Lavender in the opening that is very sharp and very bitter, then it dries into an incredibly magical drydown.

    Alot of Maitre scents follow this same path of shocking bitter tops that blossom into wonderful bases.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Creed Acier Aluminium - Crazy metallic dusty opening moving to a lovely smooth banana / amber / sandalwood dry down.
    Chanel Egoiste - Never liked the opening of this too much but the dry down (smooth sandalwood again) is great.
    Tom Ford Noir de Noir - Prefer this when it reaches the nice caramelised rose / truffle dry down.
    Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur - Anyone who wears this knows what I mean (also true for Jicky too)

  21. #21

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Most fragrances have an evolution over time, many of which have "sharp" citrus, herbs, or aldehydes in the top notes. Different chemicals evaporate at different rates, so that's why you get the difference over time. Good perfumers know how to manipulate these characteristics to create a perfume that evolves over time, creating coherent structures throughout the evolution of the scent.

    Some scents don't have this sort of evolution, though. Bulgari Black, for instance, has little in the way of top notes, and does not change significantly through its evaporation.

    Scents similar to A*Men? There are many sweet & herbal scents that follow the same general idea, but A*Men is positively unique. Here are some recommendations:

    A*Men Flankers (Pure Havane, Pure Coffee, Pure Malt) - You may like Pure Malt, as the top notes are far smoother and more rich.
    Idole Lubin - Soft sweet woody fragrance with subdued edible spices
    Heritage by Guerlain - sweet and rich oriental with a very angel-style patchouli accord.
    Rochas Man - S W E E T woody vanilla coffee beverage - warm and sensual, lightly musky
    Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin - woody, nutty licorice confection. Delicious.
    Hey man seriously appreciate you taking the time to educate me. Is there something specific that the perfumers do to create a "sharper opening"? Is it a matter of using certain ingredients? Or perhaps they change the actual process of making the perfume? Of course, I'm not asking for a super technical answer haha, I'm just curious why some openings are softer while others hit you in the face.
    Last edited by icanzapyou; 8th February 2012 at 02:18 AM. Reason: This was meant to be a reply to another post. Apparently I screwed up replying directly to his post. Perhaps you can help?

  22. #22

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    By the way thank you everyone for your suggestions, can't wait to try them out!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Kenzo Pour Homme

  24. #24

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Silver Man by Amouage

  25. #25

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    I would sell a lot of Chanel Pour Monsieur and could never understand it from what I was smelling right out of the bottle. I finally let it dry down a bit and now I LOVE it.. not exactly sharp per se, but still a nasty opening to my nose
    -Cologne is the only fashionable thing that fits me! (Me, circa 1997-present)
    http://www.youtube.com/860cologne

  26. #26

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Bois de Iles

  27. #27

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Quote Originally Posted by SteelerOpera View Post
    I would sell a lot of Chanel Pour Monsieur and could never understand it from what I was smelling right out of the bottle. I finally let it dry down a bit and now I LOVE it.. not exactly sharp per se, but still a nasty opening to my nose
    I find Pour Monsieur's opening to be one of the most pleasant openings of any fragrance, ever. It has a beautiful fizzy coca-cola opening that really blends wonderfully with the whole chypre structure. A great mix of ginger and spicy citrus. I can say without a doubt that I absolutely love it.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    I second Versace's The Dreamer, although I think the dry-down is extremely light, inviting, dryly sweet, and pleasant. It's a favourite of mine. I own A*Men as well, and love scents that metamorphosize upon my skin. Another of my all-time favourites that I hated at first because of the strong, sharp, lavender blast in the opening, is Rochas Man. After wearing it just once I fell in love! It is much like a cross between The Dreamer, A*Men, and Le Male, at times smelling similar to all of them, while at others just smeling sublimely scrumptious and heavenly.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Quote Originally Posted by icanzapyou View Post
    Hey guys, really hoping this isn't a duplicate thread. Don't know very much about scents, but after educating my nose a little more, I decided to give Angel Men another chance after writing it off the first time. I actually really love the dry down once I look past the sharp opening. Can anyone recommend scents that basically follow the same format? I'm dying to try musc ravageur. Any more recommendations? Thanks!
    Spice Bomb!

  30. #30

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    Cartier Santos Concentree

  31. #31

    Default Re: Sharp opening, awesome dry down scents

    +1 Amouage - Silver Men

    Givenchy - Gentleman
    Bogart Pour Homme

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