Thread: Best Iris fragrance, please help
I remember sniffing this..and a lot of people smell iris in it. I didn't know of iris at all as far as the note smell when I had the sample..but there is Dahlia Noir EDP..not the EDT, the EDT is nothing like the EDP. I got a lot of patchouli in the EDP and powder...that's all I remember!
"One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.
Out of curiosity, which iris frags sport really good projection and longevity? My skin tends to eat scents, and iris is a note that struggles with performance sometimes. I'd love to find my holy grail iris (my journey hasn't even begun yet).
On my shortlist to try: Iris 39, Iris Silver Mist, Iris de Nuit, VC&A Bois d'Iris. Any of these particularly strong in sillage/longevity?
Also, thanks to everyone for all the recommendations so far. Iris Pallida as "ghostly" iris... sounds amazing. I'm scared to even try it.
Iris 39 - strong
Iris Silver Mist medium strong
Iris de Nuit weak'ish
VC&A Bois d'Iris weak
Iris pallida and iris silver mists are what I call masterpieces. You rarely happen upon such robust and well blended perfumes.
Bois d'Iris The different Company - more woody and fragrant than soliflore iris but nice nonetheless.
Citta di Kyoto Santa Maria Novella - iris prominent albeit feminine
Dzongkha - just divine
I know there has been a lot of positive feedback on the new fragrance from Ramon Monegal "Impossible Iris" that may be worth sampling.
I found this out the day i took a walk with my mother in
our garden on a warm sunny afternoon.
Upon entering the house again i was baffled by the amplified projection.
Its like a violinist that only plays under ideal situations.
I oblige and accommodate required optimum ambience.
It's funny how one taste in fragrance changes over time. I recall when I first began collecting fragrances. I was in my teens and I wouldn't even consider purchasing anything that smelled remotely feminine. Now I am in love with Iris. Fragrance collecting is in and of itself and incredible journey and life altering experience. I am so happy to appreciate fragrances today that I would have never dared to sniff years ago.
I very recently sampled two from Xerjoff - both of which I recommend to Iris fans.
Irisss - is just iris, iris, IRIS. To me it's just a soliflore - very rich, very natural smelling. Someone was asking for lasting power and silliage - THIS IS IT! Too much for me actually, but I dont think Im that big an Iris fan. I have to try this again in the winter. It might not be that overpowering then. Even if you dont like it that much, I recommend you DON'T wash it off. After about 3 hours, it gradually changes into an incredible dry-down. The iris becomes more subdued, softer, very, very slightly powdery [Im not sure if this is the right word] and with just a hint of vanilla. I wish they'd use this mix in a perfume with more florals - I'd probably buy 6 bottles. I could still get traces of it this morning.
It's worth wading through the iris just to get to the drydown - and if you really like iris, you'll probably love the wait. I think every iris lover should sample this!
Ibitra - Another XJ every iris lover should try. This has more other notes in it, but to me the other notes are all muted and it's still mostly iris. It's supposed to have lemon top notes and a floral heart [including iris]. I got a slight lemon tinge and a lot of iris. Am still waiting to see if other floral notes develop.
This is a much softer, for me, more wearable iris. I want to see how it develops. It's expensive if you buy the bottle, but you can order a sample of it just to try. For anyone who loves iris, I highly recommend these two. Im wondering if this company does a jasmin and/or roses scent - anyone know?
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It's starting to open up a little now. Im still getting mostly iris - but much softer, subtler than Irisss - with only a hint of something else. Hope the drydown is the same.
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Okay - now it's getting slightly sweeter and a bit more floral. But still largely iris. I think I could really start to like this. I prefer Ibitra now, but Im going to re-sample in cooler weather.
These 2 I definitely recommend to sample!
Wow, thank you everyone for your kind comments, but I did find my Iris Holy Grail. When I set out on this journey I had no idea that I will find not just an Iris Holy Grail, but my own HG fragrance. I always thought that the whole idea of HG fragrance is a mirage, smoke and mirrors, but it came true for me.
Iris Pallida - when I get even the slightest whiff, its like a ghostly knife through the heart: hair stand on a back of my neck and I get chills. I can't imagine living my life without ever smelling it again. That life would be empty...Luckily I have enough to last me a long while.
hobbes22 - do be afraid, but you might not relate to it as I did and it is one worth knowing for sure. I will second hedonis222 that it opens fully under certain conditions, but when it does...it is truly special.
senore01 - it is funny how tastes change. I used to hate vanilla, but can't imagine my life without it too. But iris is not always femme, in my opinion: Iris Silver Mist and Iris Pallida are truly unisex. Iris de Nuit depends, some think of it is girly, but I don't think so at all.
As for longevity/sillage I agree Iris 39 is the strongest on both counts. But Iris de Nuit and Iris Pallida, though do not announce their presence loudly, last for a very long time on me: good 6-10 hours. I think it is all in the nature of Iris - I remember watching a video on a Chanel website where Christopher Sheldrake explained that the way Iris molecule behaves is that it builds overtime, so if you are underwhelmed by Iris fragrance initially, give it ample time and it will catch up with you. I observed that phenomenon for years with Chanel 19 and it is my favorite aspect of Iris fragrances - catching ghostly whiffs when least expecting them.
As for Xerjoff, I spent way, way too much on Iris Pallida and I did find the One. Maybe one of these day I will try Xerjoff out of curiosity, but I know for sure that no Iris will take place of Iris Pallida in my heart. EVER!!!
Hedonist, C Rose, thanks for your input. I'm excited to go through my iris seeking journey. I think Iris 39 and Iris Silver Mist look like leading contenders for what I'm looking for, although I've read Iris 39 is more of a warm iris rather than a cool one. I love the description of Iris Pallida as a ghostly, cool iris. I guess I'll figure out what I like as I test more iris scents.
PalmBeach, Impossible Iris is one I've heard a lot about recently. I hope to check it out soon.
Classics Lover, thanks for your reviews on the Xerjoffs. Irisss sounds like an intriguing, long lasting iris. Would you call this a cool or a warm iris?
Whitefluffy, thanks for starting this thread. It's helpful for someone like me that has yet to seek out their holy grail iris scent. I'm very happy for you that you found your Holy Grail scent overall! I thought that was just a myth, it's awesome to see someone enjoy a scent so much.
By the way, what do people think of MPG Iris Bleu Gris? Does it stand up against some of the others mentioned above?
I think I should mention that I tried an Impossible Iris, thank you Foustie!
It is a very good Iris fragrance with a new take on Iris. Well done, well blended, exquisite, and fresh. It;s happy - airy, but not for airheads. It starts out very much like Iris Silver Mist and Iris Pallida, with a blast of earthy iris. Then raspberry and ylang ylang join the party, lifting gloomy iris to they skies full of sunshine. Cedar is barely there, but gives it a backbone while keeping the whole composition transparent. Impossible Iris has decent longevity and sillage, but it leans more femme in my opinion. Of course, it's all a matter of chemistry and perception. I think of it as sexy, classy, and very very happy Iris. The bottom line: is it FB worthy? It is to me...From all Iris fragrances I threw my hubby's way, Impossible Iris was his absolute fave.
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hobbes22 -thank you for your kind words and good luck on your Iris journey. Iris 39 and ISM is a great start! MPG Iris Bleu Gris is very unique and animalic, more in Yatagan style - naughty. But I think you should check it out too.
I find it interesting that comments generally seem to be that Iris de Nuit is delicate and faint. I must be fortunate but this stuff just works on me, lasts all day and pretty strongly with it.
Yeah I love it, one of the top ten in my collection. It is my black shirt frag as I'm always inclined to want to wear black. For me it has a bit of melancholy about but it in a good way.
There is a song lyric;
"A man in black on a snow white horse,
A pointless life has run its course,
The red rimmed eyes, the tears still run
As he fades into the setting sun"
If I was that man this is what I'd be wearing
To me Iris Pallida is a melancholic man (in a black shirt, of course) who plays sad and enchanting bluesy tune on electric guitar and the rain pours down heavily outside. It's a song about love long lost and missed opportunities in life, but there is hope...Did I make you barf or what?
By the way which song is that? I want to hear it!
Lol, I am ill today but no. Nothing wrong with a bit of melancholy as long as it isn't habitual. I've not tried IP, nor ISM which I'm keen to try, must look for IP then. The song is Yet Another Movie'' by Pink Floyd. I'm a fan of David Gimour's somewhat melancholic style (theres that word again).
i've seen these terms used to describe fragrances here many times. Im not really sure what they mean so I wouldnt want to give you a bum steer.
On me Irisss was very strong and just smelled of Iris and nothing else until the drydown. I dont know if you would call that cool or warm. I thought it was too much in the summer, but I will definitely try it again in the winter when it might be more subdued. Hope this helps.
Classics Lover - thank for your input with Xerjoffs, it's invaluable to this thread.
Ozjon701 - I just listened to that song and sprayed myself with Iris de Nuit. It is very fitting and I LOVE this stuff! But Iris Pallida is the one that fits even better - I am aware that I sound like a broken record - but I know now you will like it more than ISM. Would you like to try some? Please PM me with your address . This is how Iris Pallida smells to me:
hobbes22 - please do PM me too and I send you some Iris Pallida as well!
Last edited by Whitefluffy; 17th August 2012 at 03:15 AM.
That song makes me think of driving home on deserted streets at 4am
Another great irises are the newest from Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Amyris Homme and Amyris Femme. Really well done fragrances. The female version was louder and more happened in it.
I also like Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris and Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile.
And I really enjoy Iris in Prada Infusions.
I'm not a big fan of Iris de Nuit, Iris Silver Mist etc...
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Cannot forget about Daimiris by Laboratorio Olfattivo! It's really nice, a little bit colder, slightly herbaceous iris with a hint of powdery quality.
This iris lover loves Iris Pallida, Chanel 19 Poudre and Brecourt's Eau Trouble.
Ferre by Gianfranco Ferre
Last edited by torooo; 19th August 2012 at 07:13 AM.
Has anyone mentioned Un Lys by Lutens? Purple Bird turned me on to this, it's very nice and girly.
Has anyone mentioned L'homme de coeur by Divine?
It was one of the first "niche" fragrances I've ever owned, it's really beautiful and uncommon.
There really is nothing like 'Iris Silver Mist' just as there is nothing to compare to vintage 'No. 19'. You're right, ISM takes some getting used to, it is a fragrance for the mature Perfumista. (I mean 'experienced') It occurs to me that you might really enjoy 'Ormonde Jayne- Woman' it's all about Hemlock. It's a little off the Iris path but it is green and tangy like 'No.19' and it is a Heart-breaker.
Last edited by kumquat; 28th December 2013 at 04:03 PM.
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