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  1. #1

    Question Does anyone know the more recent history of mens colognes?

    What I mean by that is in the 90's through today, fresh aquatics came into vogue. In the 80's it was really quite the oppsite with the so called heavier powerhouses. The 70's all I know was Brut et al. The 60's? The 50's? The 40's? The 30's? What was the focus, theme or emphasis in those generations?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Does anyone know the more recent history of mens colognes?

    First off, the 70s had a huge selection of men's fragrances. The aromatic fougere was boss, but there were tons of variations. I'd say the 70s was when the idea of male fragrance really caught the American public as a nearly mandatory accessory, whether it be aftershave, deodorant, hair tonic, or just personal fragrance.

    The 30s-60s had a more limited selection, but the fragrances available was usually great. There weren't a lot of "themes" in the way you mean. The 80s and 90s fragrances had what can be perceived as a "theme" because the development of these fragrances was largely overseen by marketing teams. If something was popular, the idea was to capitalize on it until people were tired of it.

    However, it is undeniable that fougeres have been king of the hill in men's fragrances for the entirety of the last century.

    The 30s brought fougeres Canoe, Skin Bracer, and Aqua Velva, the strange oriental fragrances of old spice and Dunhill for men, and the beautifully vanillic lavender of Caron's Pour Un Homme, most of which were scented aftershave lotions.

    The 40s were troubled and there were very few masculines produced until the very end; Moustache, English Leather, and Acqua di Selva were produced in 1949.

    The 50s were home to some of the nicest fragrances for men ever: Chanel Pour Monsieur, Monsieur de Givenchy, Tabac Original, Carven and Givenchy's Vetivers, and Pino Silvestre.

    The 60s started expanding on the idea of a man wearing fragrance in America; it was no longer a barbershop thing or a personal grooming option, but Men were wearing fragrance to smell good. Guerlain's Vetiver and Habit Rouge, Brut, Aramis, Gres Pour Homme, Eau Savage, and Monsieur Rochas are just some examples of the more lovely fragrances created in the 60s for men.

    As stated above, the 70s was home to many, many different fragrances for men. It was a new market that exploded and competition was high without horrible marketing teams to create a uniform characteristic. It is my opinion that most of the best and most innovative men's fragrances were from the 70s, despite how troubled the idea of masculinity was. Look it up!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Does anyone know the more recent history of mens colognes?

    Wow, thanks alot for your insightful answer as it is appreciated.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Does anyone know the more recent history of mens colognes?

    Luca Turin's "Perfume Guide" book includes a section that addresses this.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Does anyone know the more recent history of mens colognes?

    Quote Originally Posted by neal View Post
    What I mean by that is in the 90's through today, fresh aquatics came into vogue. In the 80's it was really quite the oppsite with the so called heavier powerhouses.
    Those genres (power houses and aquatics) did not come into vogue in the 80s and 90s.
    Major corporations decided that they'd make suffice profit by shoving powerhouses down the general consumer's throat in the 80s and aquatics in the 90s.

    Many many people wore niche, as we know it today, even in the 80s and 90s.
    Forza L'Artisan Parfumeur, Maitre Parfumeur and Caron.

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