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  1. #31
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    drseid's Avatar
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    Capo di Feno could make a terrific alternative for those who'd like an immortelle-centered fragrance but don't stand the burnt-sugary-syrupy aspect of this Flower.

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    Capo di Feno could make a terrific alternative for those who'd like an immortelle-centered fragrance but don't stand the burnt-sugary-syrupy aspect of this Flower.
    You know it is funny you mentioned that, as I can't stand immortelle due to that very reason and did not recognize it because I did not smell that aspect in the scent at all (IMO this is a very *good* thing).
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

  2. #32

    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Thanks for sharing.

    Carticasi sounds nice. And if is used in reserve then Mia Murza may be very nice too.
    +1 on hedonist, thanks alfa.

  3. #33
    Foustie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Hi guys. It's me (again)!

    I have two hefty samples up for grabs. Loriani (The Lavender), and Carticasi (The unusual green). Both very herbal, both nice, particularly the Carticasi. It's quite unusual.

    Loriani - Opens with a really lovely Lavender, then joined with a very true thyme. Alfarom comments on the orange blossom, but on me undoubtedly the herbs dominate and then unfortunately it falls away. You may find it different. We seem to be finding this with the naturals, aren't we?

    Carticasi - In my view the opening makes me think about a modern take on an old fashined astringent masculine, but then it becomes more aromatic (not sweet) in the middle, and this is clearly the contribution of the rose. I love when rose is used in that way, to aromaticise. It's not floral as such. Carticasi retains a herbal quality throughout, even as it softens and develops on the skin. Unisex but would be really lovely on a man I think. Distinctive. Very good.

    If you would like them post here then we know that they are taken.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    foustie, can i ask for the carticasi? don't care for loriani, me and lavender don't really go along. let me know, thanks

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Of course Danny, you are most welcome.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Actually we have decided to send them on to Dan as a pair. He'll come back to us once he has tried them.

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    You know it is funny you mentioned that, as I can't stand immortelle due to that very reason and did not recognize it because I did not smell that aspect in the scent at all (IMO this is a very *good* thing).
    Yes, Capo Di Feno completely skips the sugary aspect of this flower. It's the most true to life rendition of the immortelle I've ever smelled.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Next up in my sample pack from Lucky Scent is Carticasi, which I really am enjoying as my SotD. Quite the green resinous scent, but the rose used in support actually is what holds the composition together, IMO. My mini-review follows below...

    Carticasi

    Carticasi goes on with a very strong grassy-green note, strongly resembling the smell of freshly cut green grass. Underneath the mastic open is a very subtle rose undertone that really takes a bit of the bite out of the now slightly bitter green accord, as galbanum also joins the mastic in the scent's heart. The base has woody undertones, but the resinous biter-green remains through the dry-down, now in a more supporting role to the woody accord taking the fore. Projection is average to below average, with surprisingly above average longevity (especially for an all-natural).

    Carticasi is a very nice release from Testa Maura indeed. It starts off a bit on the strong side with its cut green grass-like mastic note, but the rose and galbanum really compliment the mastic extremely well, giving the perfect juxtaposition of bracingly bitter (from the galbanum) and smooth and soft (from the rose). The woody notes in the base only enhance the overall experience and meld perfectly with the remaining bitter greens from the heart. While I can certainly see some being a bit put off by the open (which I personally enjoyed), it is only the prelude to the amazing heart and dry-down to come of this minimalist all natural gem. Carticasi earns a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Up today is a great immortelle scent for folks like me who usually dislike it as a featured ingredient... My mini-review of Mia Murza follows:

    Mia Murza

    Mia Murza opens with a combination of bergamot and immortelle that pretty much remains throughout the scents limited development. The combination is reminiscent of an almost slightly sparkling ginger and olive oil concoction, for lack of a better descriptor. I must say that the immortelle really has almost no resemblance to the stereotypical presentation of the note in most scents containing it. The only other primary identifiable note is a very prominent patchouli base note that also bleeds into the heart of the scent as well, remaining through the relatively brief dry-down. Projection is below average and longevity is poor.

    Mia Murza is a scent I expected to really hate as I can't stand immortelle as a general rule, and its usually exhibited caramelized, almost syrupy presentation like in Eau Noir by Dior is near intolerable... That said, I love Mia Murza because the immortelle is presented in a completely atypical manner, lacking all the characteristics of the flower that I disdain so much. If I did not know it was the primary note, I would swear it wasn't present based on my prior experiences. I actually think the atypical immortelle and patchouli combination works rather well here and I thoroughly enjoyed the overall accord, regardless of whatever is behind it. My real gripe with the scent, reducing the chance of purchase is its relatively short-lived longevity of 2 hours (with the average for me being 8-10 hours). For $140 for a 50ml edp I expect much better than that, all natural ingredients or no. Still, performance and price aside I do love the smell and certainly recommend the excellent 4 star out of 5 Mia Murza as an immortelle scent for folks like me who usually dislike immortelle.
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    @ drseid - your impressions are, indeed, informative, and very much appreciated.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Quote Originally Posted by dollars&scents View Post
    @ drseid - your impressions are, indeed, informative, and very much appreciated.
    Less than 100th of yours, but one tries. Many thanks. :-)
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

  10. #40
    Foustie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    On Carticasi.... Quite the green resinous scent, but the rose used in support actually is what holds the composition together, IMO.
    *sigh*. Loving your reviews of this great line drseid. We seem to agree about the wonderful use of rose in Carticasi.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Testa Maura: A Re-Launch!

    Up today is Aqua di Casta. I wish I knew what chestnut water smelled like, but if this is it I guess I must love the stuff... My mini-review follows:

    Aqua di Casta

    Aqua di Casta opens with a sharp ginger note that is slightly bitter with even an almost salty quality, with a cedar wood undertone that grows over the scent's progression. The ginger and cedar hang around well into the heart, combining with just the faintest supporting rose and an almost effervescent vetiver rising from the base, giving the scent even more zip. In the dry-down the vetiver and cedar remain, now joined by very dry sandalwood as the backbone. Projection is above average and longevity is average.

    I am sold on both this scent and Testa Maura in general. Aqua di Casta is supposed to be a scent revolving around chestnut water, but I confess I have no idea what that smells like. What I *do* know is Aqua di Casta smells incredible and is an excellent representation of a dry cedar wood and sparkly vetiver scent with a very different relatively stark take on sandalwood to boot. I guess that is what continues to impress me with the house in general... Testa Maura approaches their entire line with providing unique takes on ingredients that I thought I knew well through sampling many other scents that present them the same way as all the others. Here, it is the sandalwood that is the standout, in others the immortelle. Aqua di Casta is another relatively minimalist composition that is far from inexpensive at $140 for a 50ml edp bottle, but I definitely recommend trying it out as it may change your perception of what to expect from prominent sandalwood compositions. Aqua di Casta earns an excellent 4 stars out of 5.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Finally today the last of my samples, Aleria, got a couple full wearings. I like this one, but it did not rise to the high standard set by the rest of the line, IMO. My mini-review follows:

    Aleria

    Aleria opens with a very nice natural grassy lemon which soon morphs into a bergamot orange accord. The lemon quickly fades but the orange remains into the heart notes, melding with an herbal floral myrtle note with just a hint of cedar wood from the base. During the dry-down the orange finally recedes allowing the cedar to dominate, with just a faint hint of a beeswax accord joining it to smooth out and anchor its woody nature. Projection is poor and so is longevity.

    Aleria is a very nice pleasant smelling scent, but I confess it does not impress as much as the other scents in the Testa Maura line. Its almost lemongrass-like opening is really amazing, and the herbal citrus at its heart is quite enjoyable as well; but there is nothing really innovative here unlike the rest of the line. Something else missing with Aleria is performance. It is a skin scent with only about an hour's longevity on skin. So while I enjoyed my sample, due to its relatively poor performance, lack of innovation and high price at $140 for 50ml Aleria earns a "good" rating of 3 stars out of 5, but is a tough sell as a purchase proposition.

    As for my overall impressions of this line after now sampling all the available scents... Count me as definitely impressed on the whole. I think the one I may actually purchase is their Eau de Cologne offering Capo di Feno as it offers the best value of the lot, but Aqua di Casta was probably my favorite of the samples if price were not a factor.
    Last edited by drseid; 20th October 2012 at 08:52 PM.
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

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