Thread: How to build an orris accord...
Since Irival ( Orris ROot Replacer) Is expensive and hard to find, is there any suggestion of how to make an "Orris Accord"? Thanks.
I ordered it already from PA. Also a friend of mine gave me this, in order to build an "orris" accord:
-Ionone Alpha -1
-Dihydro ionone beta -2
-Irone alpha @10% -2 ( hard to get and expensive, but we can experiment leaving it out)
-Isoraldeine 95 - 5
Hope it helps. I am wondering ( Since orris is used as base note) how we can create an "iris-orris" in top and heart notes of any composition.....any idea (I know carrot and celery)?
Then you can see that I am obsessed with orris..
Thanks always Chris !!!!!
I think if you want irris-orris as a middle to top note, what you are really looking for is violet - something I must say I really love - and then you are looking at a combination of the main ionones: alpha, beta, alpha-methyl and perhaps dihydro ionone beta. You might add isoraldeine 95 (more violet and less orris than the 70) and undecavertol too.
Great Chris. Thank you.
Great Post Chris!!!!
I didn't realize about cucumber aldehyde..interesting. What about Orriniff ( I can smell some cucumber there) and Violiff? Any suggestion of woods and musks to impart more coolness to my orris-iris-violet creation? I was thinking in Norlimbanol , but in small traces too, cause it can overpower any composition. Thanks always Chris!!!!!!
The best I find to getting the ingredients right is a headspace analysis if you can find one: cucumber aldehyde is counterintuitive I agree, but is also in the scents of the hyacinth and narcissus flowers in tiny amounts and is an essential for a good violet IMO. I like to have some green-ness in it too - violet leaf absolute is the obvious choice, but also leaf alcohol (again part of the scent of the real flower).
Offiniff and Violiff are both pre-mixed accords by IFF so I canít say exactly whatís in them, but certainly Violiff is intended to be used as-is to create a violet note. I donít use either personally as I have an accord of my own devising that I prefer to use.
Now as to the woods and musks - I have used a tiny amount of norlimbanol, a whole collection of different musks and some Chinese Cedarwood. If you donít have the Chinese then Virginian works well too and is cheaper.
Chris thank you always! What a expensive hobby! I feel will never finish buying something that is missing.
Sometimes I tell my self: Do a minimalist-synthetic fragrance and that's it. But I dont want to give up, even if I spend a whole year collecting the right ingredients for my iris-orris perfume , and learning from my mistakes; and now (as you saw in my other post) I want to make a metallic accord. Maybe they will work very well together. I want to have access to Maurice Roucel " Black Book" and steal the secret of Lutens "Iris Silver Mist". I believe that perfume is the reason of my insomnia.
Can I steal it......?