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  1. #1
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    Default How to build an orris accord...

    Hi everyone!!!
    Since Irival ( Orris ROot Replacer) Is expensive and hard to find, is there any suggestion of how to make an "Orris Accord"? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Chris Bartlett's Avatar
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Isoraldeine 70 would be a good place to start and is available from both Perfumerís Apprentice and Hekserij.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    I ordered it already from PA. Also a friend of mine gave me this, in order to build an "orris" accord:
    -Ionone Alpha -1
    -Dihydro ionone beta -2
    -Irone alpha @10% -2 ( hard to get and expensive, but we can experiment leaving it out)
    -Isoraldeine 95 - 5
    Hope it helps. I am wondering ( Since orris is used as base note) how we can create an "iris-orris" in top and heart notes of any composition.....any idea (I know carrot and celery)?
    Then you can see that I am obsessed with orris..
    Thanks always Chris !!!!!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    I think if you want irris-orris as a middle to top note, what you are really looking for is violet - something I must say I really love - and then you are looking at a combination of the main ionones: alpha, beta, alpha-methyl and perhaps dihydro ionone beta. You might add isoraldeine 95 (more violet and less orris than the 70) and undecavertol too.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Great Chris. Thank you.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Quote Originally Posted by yandynestor View Post
    Great Chris. Thank you.
    Youíre welcome. Another thought if you are trying to create a violet accord: youíll need cucumber aldehyde (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienal) in traces too. Donít use too much or it will go from violet to melon quite suddenly (and then to cucumber if you keep going).
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Great Post Chris!!!!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    I didn't realize about cucumber aldehyde..interesting. What about Orriniff ( I can smell some cucumber there) and Violiff? Any suggestion of woods and musks to impart more coolness to my orris-iris-violet creation? I was thinking in Norlimbanol , but in small traces too, cause it can overpower any composition. Thanks always Chris!!!!!!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    The best I find to getting the ingredients right is a headspace analysis if you can find one: cucumber aldehyde is counterintuitive I agree, but is also in the scents of the hyacinth and narcissus flowers in tiny amounts and is an essential for a good violet IMO. I like to have some green-ness in it too - violet leaf absolute is the obvious choice, but also leaf alcohol (again part of the scent of the real flower).

    Offiniff and Violiff are both pre-mixed accords by IFF so I canít say exactly whatís in them, but certainly Violiff is intended to be used as-is to create a violet note. I donít use either personally as I have an accord of my own devising that I prefer to use.

    Now as to the woods and musks - I have used a tiny amount of norlimbanol, a whole collection of different musks and some Chinese Cedarwood. If you donít have the Chinese then Virginian works well too and is cheaper.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: How to build an orris accord...

    Chris thank you always! What a expensive hobby! I feel will never finish buying something that is missing.
    Sometimes I tell my self: Do a minimalist-synthetic fragrance and that's it. But I dont want to give up, even if I spend a whole year collecting the right ingredients for my iris-orris perfume , and learning from my mistakes; and now (as you saw in my other post) I want to make a metallic accord. Maybe they will work very well together. I want to have access to Maurice Roucel " Black Book" and steal the secret of Lutens "Iris Silver Mist". I believe that perfume is the reason of my insomnia.
    Can I steal it......?

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