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Thread: Noir Patchouli

  1. #1
    N_Tesla's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Noir Patchouli

    I am testing Histoires de parfums Noir Patchouli today. Rather than brazen 60's patchouli this is quite nice, subuded with a slight sweet twist. I recieved my samples yesterday from Miomia after jury duty. The whole group got to get out of service because all seven cases settled out of court. COOL! Anyway I would be interested in hearing thoughts on Noir Patchouli from those base noters, myself included, who recieved the samples from Miomia.
    Thanks Miomia.
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 18th February 2009 at 03:19 PM.

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    I've had a sample for a while, and oddly enough I've been testing it this morning, too. My only problem is that it's not appropriately named. After a decent patchouli topnote, the heart kicks into a strong rose accord with little/no patchouli. People expecting a patchouli-centric fragrance will be disappointed. The Histoire de Parfums 1826 (the current reformulated version, not the old version) is much, much more of a patchouli fragrance then is Noir Patchouli.

    NP is a nice enough fragrance, but it's doesn't do what the name promises. You'd expect this from Le Labo, but because the other named Histoire fragrances are dead on (Ambre 114, Blanc Violette), this one is a little odd.

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    Smile Re: Noir Patchouli

    bbBD: Yes, I smell the rose. I am not that much for spicey frgrances and the rose makes it very attractive to me. For patchouli lovers though I hear what your saying. As for me I may get a bottle of this before it is no longer available. I keep smellin the back of my hand as I am writing this. Really good stuff. Haven't tried the others yet. Will report when I do.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    I like it quite a bit and almost bought a bottle (old style bottle at a discount is mighty appealing), but wasn't sure that I'd find many times to wear it over other patchouli scents I have. There's something comforting and familiar in it. It's very nicely done to me.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    A patchouli scent that lacks a real patchouli punch
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  6. #6

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    I am surprised no one has commented on the resemblance of Noir Patchouli to Aramis 900 EDC and MPG Parfum d'Habit. Basically, it's one third the former and two parts the latter.

    I don't understand all this talk about Noir Patchouli not containing patchouli. It has an abundance of patchouli; however, when you mix patchouli with rose and rose like constituents you get neither patchouli nor rose but a patchouli rose accord. That's what's at the heart of this accord as it is at the heart of the two above mentioned fragrances, not to mention a fragrance like Prafums de Rosine Rose d'Homme EDP. If you want a straight patchouli fragrance, this is not it, but the way people fret, you'd think it was the first time they discovered that most fragrances that have the name of a key essential oil as part of the name of the fragrance hardly ever deliver up that particularly essential oil in its pure unmixed form. If the did, we'd all be wearing essential oils instead of fragrances, which are always a mix of various constituents, with in some case the key constituent more prominent than in other cases.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 19th February 2009 at 05:14 PM.

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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    scentemental - I always appreciate your perfumer's perspective. I'm glad you mentioned Rose d'Homme because I recently got a sample and find it to share a lot of similarities with Noir Patchouli.

    I think you're not understanding my comment, or perhaps your criticism is a touch misplaced:

    It's not that I dislike the fragrance or don't understand naming conventions. I certainly don't expect an essential oil, and I'm hardly fretting. The source of my comment is that nearly all fragrances with the name 'patchouli' in the title are patchouli-centric in terms of how they smell.... from SMN to Etro to Mazzolari, Profumum, Reminiscence Paris, Montale, Farmacia SS Anunziata, Ava Luxe, Molinard, Caswell-Massey, etc. (I like patchouli if you couldn't tell). These houses all have patchouli-titled fragrances that are patchouli accords and not pure oil (obviously). However all of them smell predominately of patchouli.

    'Noir Patchouli' - to my nose - is predominately a rose fragrance accompanied by patchouli. Especially with the word "noir" in the title I'd expect the ratio of rose:atchouli to be reversed so that it's a patchouli fragrance accompanied by rose. The only other patchouli-titled fragrance I can think of that isn't overwhelmingly patchouli-smelling is CB I Hate Perfume Patchouli Empire. I'm sure there are others, just not any I've tried.

    I hope this clarifies the source of my statement.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    ps - As mentioned above, HdP's 1826, as reformulated, is predominately patchouli accompanied by rose... perhaps they switched the labels at the lab ;-p

  9. #9

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    I am surprised no one has commented on the resemblance of Noir Patchouli to Aramis 900 EDC and MPG Parfum d'Habit. Basically, it's one third the former and two parts the latter.
    ooooh, now I like the sound of THAT!
    Last edited by arlecchino; 19th February 2009 at 07:03 PM.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    scentemental - I always appreciate your perfumer's perspective. I'm glad you mentioned Rose d'Homme because I recently got a sample and find it to share a lot of similarities with Noir Patchouli.

    I think you're not understanding my comment, or perhaps your criticism is a touch misplaced:

    It's not that I dislike the fragrance or don't understand naming conventions. I certainly don't expect an essential oil, and I'm hardly fretting. The source of my comment is that nearly all fragrances with the name 'patchouli' in the title are patchouli-centric in terms of how they smell.... from SMN to Etro to Mazzolari, Profumum, Reminiscence Paris, Montale, Farmacia SS Anunziata, Ava Luxe, Molinard, Caswell-Massey, etc. (I like patchouli if you couldn't tell). These houses all have patchouli-titled fragrances that are patchouli accords and not pure oil (obviously). However all of them smell predominately of patchouli.

    'Noir Patchouli' - to my nose - is predominately a rose fragrance accompanied by patchouli. Especially with the word "noir" in the title I'd expect the ratio of rose:atchouli to be reversed so that it's a patchouli fragrance accompanied by rose. The only other patchouli-titled fragrance I can think of that isn't overwhelmingly patchouli-smelling is CB I Hate Perfume Patchouli Empire. I'm sure there are others, just not any I've tried.

    I hope this clarifies the source of my statement.

    Perfectly, and thanks for taking the time to do so. I find everything you say eminently sensible and well though out. I will say, though, that I didn't have you in mind when I posted, nor any one else in particular for that matter.

    It’s interesting to consider that “rose” as a note in perfumery is a very elastic concept, and this becomes apparent when one has familiarized oneself with the two major kinds of rose oils and the many regional variants of these rose oils and the 5 or 6 major aromachemical constituents with which most rose accords are created. Personally--and let's remember that individual noses resolve notes different depending on interpretation and experience and the phenomenological vagaries of individual perception--I find Noir Patchouli to be a well-balanced rose patchouli accord with neither one element dominating on a quite sophisticated, well-done amber base. Paradoxically, that's one of the reason's I don't like it. I prefer either the patchouli or the rose to predominate; instead, I find that it has a prickly powderiness, typically of well balanced patchouli rose accords, that doesn't sit well with me. I feel the same way about Rose d'Homme EDP.

    Incidentally, it seems I have inherited the mantle of Basenotes' resident perfumer. I noticed someone else used that appellation in another post. I am not a perfumer. Apart from owning and sampling essential oils and some aromachemicals, I have never even dabbled in the art of making perfume. I just talk about fragrances as adequately as I can based reading, thinking, and experience. I am very much a dilettante in the literal, etymological meaning of the one; namely, one who delights in fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    ps - As mentioned above, HdP's 1826, as reformulated, is predominately patchouli accompanied by rose... perhaps they switched the labels at the lab ;-p

    It sounds like 1826 is something I would like since patchouli predominant fragrances are favorites of mine as are rose predominant fragrances.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 19th February 2009 at 08:27 PM.

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    I also recently sampled Noir Patchouli and liked it enough that I've sprung for a 100ml bottle in the now-old packaging! Starting with the premise that each and every one of our noses is different, as well the wiring of our olfactory systems, I must say that Noir Patchouli is a primary patchouli scent to me. Yes, I appreciate other accords, including rose, but this is in no way a rose-dominant scent to my perception. I place the effect of the patchouli in Noir Patchouli to a point somewhere between, say, Givenchy Gentleman on the one hand, and L'Artisan's Patchouli Patch on the other. I think that Noir Patchouli is very well done, has excellent longevity, and keeps me wanting to smell myself all day long.
    Last edited by wicozani; 27th February 2009 at 03:55 PM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    I think I finally got a handle on Histoire de Parfum's Noir Patchouli, and figured this thread deserves a bump. scentemental was spot on about the rose-patchouli accord; the rose and patchouli notes meld & mesh so well together that anyone could be forgiven for thinking there's little patchouli or little rose to be found. While comparisons to other patchouli dominant fragrances are inevitable, I feel one has to consider the house style in order to understand this composition, and just take the name with a pinch of salt. After all, Serge Lutens Cedre isn't about cedar, is it? What's more important is if it smells good on your skin...

    Btw, just for fun, to those who feel the patchouli here lacks real presence for a 'noir' composition, what name would you have given it? Patchouli Sport?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Good thread to bump

    Quote Originally Posted by jrd4t View Post
    I like it quite a bit and almost bought a bottle (old style bottle at a discount is mighty appealing), but wasn't sure that I'd find many times to wear it over other patchouli scents I have. There's something comforting and familiar in it. It's very nicely done to me.
    Yep, bought it.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    When I hear rose-patchouli-accord I'm ashamed to admit I tune out. I've got Voleur de Roses, and it's a top fragrance for me. I don't know I'd go for any challenger.

    But how does Noir Patchouli compare with VdR?
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB View Post
    When I hear rose-patchouli-accord I'm ashamed to admit I tune out. I've got Voleur de Roses, and it's a top fragrance for me. I don't know I'd go for any challenger.

    But how does Noir Patchouli compare with VdR?
    VdR is grittier & earthier, and the rose much more full bodied, existing as a rather separate entity from the patch. In comparison, Noir Patchouli is smoother, with a subtle rose & minty patchouli tightly intertwined. It comes down to a difference in style IMO with the Noir dovetailing nicely with my taste preferences.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Cool, DF! Thanks very much for the reply.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB View Post
    When I hear rose-patchouli-accord I'm ashamed to admit I tune out. I've got Voleur de Roses, and it's a top fragrance for me. I don't know I'd go for any challenger.

    But how does Noir Patchouli compare with VdR?
    You should give Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire pour homme a shot... really, really nicely done patchouli/rose with spices. I think it's vaulted into my top five... if I were to actually keep tabs.
    The Bark Bites Back.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    it doesnt come across as a rose/patch scent to me.. there are defintiely strong florals but somehow, it doent come across as rose prominent the way it does in VdR, Black oudh etc. it's more about florals, patch and vanilla.

    the scent it reminds me of is Chanel Coromandel.
    Last edited by jenson; 22nd March 2010 at 09:48 PM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    fine scent. I Love the retro feeling accord (yet modern) made of patchouli and rose.
    my current top five (always in transition)

    Dior Eau Noire
    HdP 1725 Casanova
    eau de gloire parfum d'empire
    Dia man Amouage
    comme des garçons man 2

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Very nice scent indeed.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Noir Patchouli

    Indeed. Probably one of the finest from HdP.

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