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  1. #1

    Default The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    I did a search and find more or less favorites threads. Sorry if this doesn't belong.

    I am curious about which scents you would consider the greatest masterpieces of fragrances and fragrance history. Not necessarily ones you wear or own or would call your favorite. Scents that you recognize great quality and composition in. Scents that hold widely, well-established praise for their greatness.

    So what scents would you nominate if you were making a sort of Hall of Fame / Gallery with significant great fragrances?

  2. #2

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    So what scents would you nominate if you were making a sort of Hall of Fame / Gallery with significant great fragrances?
    All by CREED. To see them fall.

  3. #3

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    So you would nominate them... to see them get shot down for being overrated? Is that what you mean?

    Well, I was thinking along the lines of ones that deserve to be recognized.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    So you would nominate them... to see them get shot down for being overrated? Is that what you mean?

    Well, I was thinking along the lines of ones that deserve to be recognized.
    'Don't get the concept of 'masterpiece' anyway. I think of Secretions Magnifiques by ELdO as an artistic fragrance under many aspects - marketing included. Well executed, masterly! That's my weak spot regarding the topic of masterpieces. Other fragrances are likeable or not. More or less so on an arbitrary scale altered by personal preferences from subject to subject. But being technically perfect despite being detested by nearly everyone - great!

    Things I like the most: YSL - Y, ... real East Indian sandalwood, Shiseido - Tactics, and some others for which I don't like to push the prices on ebay ... for obvious reasons ;-)

  5. #5
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    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Brands like Adidas, Cuba, and Axe/Lynx are generally thought to be masterpieces by everyone who tries their lines.

  6. #6

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    WildThingy, it may not be your intentions but you have a way of unfavorably disrupting threads.

    I would nominate :

    Hasu No Hana
    Or Black
    Rose 31
    Iris Silver Mist
    Leather Oud


    To name a few.

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  7. #7
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    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Fougere Royale

  8. #8

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Fougere Royale
    This is certainly one of them.

  9. #9

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    The problem with this concept in the world of fragrances, IMO, is that the original frag (of a genre or type) is not necessarily the most wearable. This was true of Coty's Chypre (which was "improved" into Mitsouko). I've come across a few examples of this that, TMK, nobody else has mentioned, so I have a feeling it's quite common. For example, I think Habit Rouge was an attempt to "masculinize" Emeraude. However, the Emeraude selling today is something I would not want to smell under any circumstances. It's complicated !

  10. #10

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Boucheron Jaïpur Homme EDP...there will be many niche mentioned I'm sure

  11. #11

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.

  12. #12

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Love lists....here are a (very) few fragrances that come to mind

    Or Black
    Jicky
    Djedi
    Bandit
    Knize Ten
    Derby
    Muscs Koublai Khan
    Insensè
    Yatagan
    Une Fleur De Cassie
    CDG Original EDP
    Sycomore
    No.5
    No.19
    En Avion
    Sous Le Vent
    Vol De Nuit
    Kouros
    Bois Des Iles
    31 Rue Cambon
    Avignon
    1740
    Bel Ami (Vintage)
    Shalimar
    Dzing!
    Fracas

    ....too many to mention....


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  13. #13
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    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Thank you Sugandaraja. That really brings the reformulation issue to the bone for me. The successive iterations of the Fifth made me shudder at the thought. It's the same for perfume aficionados.

  14. #14

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.
    You articulated this perfectly. Unfortunately, you're preaching to the choir. The jackoffs in charge of the perfume houses these days are clueless/and or indifferent about the greatness of these fragrances.

  15. #15

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.
    You articulated this perfectly. Unfortunately, you're preaching to the choir. The jackoffs in charge of the perfume houses these days are clueless/and or indifferent about the greatness of these fragrances.

  16. #16

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    vintage Mitsouko
    vintage L'Heure Bleue
    vintage Vol de Nuit
    vintage Apres L'Ondee extrait
    vintage Bois des Iles
    vintage Cuir de Russie

    some probably less thought of as masterpiece's, but are so imho..

    Dunhill Blend 30
    Monsieur Balmain
    Gucci Nobile
    Patou Pour Homme
    vintage Jil Sander Man Pure

  17. #17

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    Thank you Sugandaraja. That really brings the reformulation issue to the bone for me. The successive iterations of the Fifth made me shudder at the thought. It's the same for perfume aficionados.
    And yet (in my opinion) many of Caron's compositions can still be perceived in much of their original glory. I tried vintage En Avion recently, and really, it has barely changed.

  18. #18

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.
    This is one of the best posts I have ever read. Bravo!
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  19. #19

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    L'Heure Bleue
    Mitsouko
    Vol De Nuit
    Shalimar
    Bois des Iles
    Chanel No.5
    Kouros
    Fougere Royal
    Bulgari Black
    Cabochard
    The list goes on...

  20. #20

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    L'Heure Bleue
    Mitsouko
    Vol De Nuit
    Shalimar
    Bois des Iles
    Chanel No.5
    Kouros
    Fougere Royal
    Bulgari Black
    Cabochard
    The list goes on...

  21. #21

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    I wish I were educated enough to respond to this, but I am not. Fun reading everyone else's answers though.

  22. #22

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    I'm a little surprised at this. Luca Turin, at least as of 2009, seemed to think that Chanel No. 5 was the one thing that, against all odds, had held its ground. Are you sure she wasn't getting the EDP when she was accustomed to the EDT (or v.v.)? And there is a tyranny to those paper strips; Santal 33 had to exit my cab through the window before I tested it on my skin.

    Totally agree with you on the general point. I'm just surprised to find Chanel No. 5 the example.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.

  23. #23

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    I'm a little surprised at this. Luca Turin, at least as of 2009, seemed to think that Chanel No. 5 was the one thing that, against all odds, had held its ground. Are you sure she wasn't getting the EDP when she was accustomed to the EDT (or v.v.)? And there is a tyranny to those paper strips; Santal 33 had to exit my cab through the window before I tested it on my skin.

    Totally agree with you on the general point. I'm just surprised to find Chanel No. 5 the example.
    The 2011 edition (i.e. The Little Book of Perfumes), Luca Turin mentions that both Chanel No.5 EdT and EdP have been changed because of the IFRA regulations. The EdP seems to be changed less, but probably still noticeable.

  24. #24

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    I'm a little surprised at this. Luca Turin, at least as of 2009, seemed to think that Chanel No. 5 was the one thing that, against all odds, had held its ground. Are you sure she wasn't getting the EDP when she was accustomed to the EDT (or v.v.)?
    Chanel No. 5 is still a good fragrance. But I don't think even Luca would claim it hasn't been reformulated.

  25. #25

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    I wish I were educated enough to respond to this, but I am not. Fun reading everyone else's answers though.
    +1, I've still yet to explore many fragrances that are revered as Gods here and am not confident enough in saying what I think is a master piece. I'm happy on one hand to not have smelt original formulations or vintages of modern classics as I would probably be on an never ending hunt to look for them and it would be pricey. But in years time when I'm much older and look at fragrances at that present time and look back at the past at what is then going to be considered old formulation etc.. I'll be able to say "That fragrance is not what it used to be back in th day", I think time tells whether a fragrance is considered a masterpiece by people, but during that time itll just be a shadow of its former self and those who knew it from the start will be the few who will be able to speak about how the fragrance was in its prime.

  26. #26

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by canuck21 View Post
    But in years time when I'm much older and look at fragrances at that present time and look back at the past at what is then going to be considered old formulation etc..
    Likely, in a years time, given the rate of reformulation. I can think of many fragrances of the last five years that have already gone under the knife.

  27. #27

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Joop! - Homme

    /close thread
    My top 16:

    1. Joop! - Homme 2. Puredistance - M
    3. Tom Ford - Tobacco vanille 4. Tom Ford - Neroli portofino
    5. Tauer - L'air de desert marocaine 6. Armani Privé - Ambre orient
    7. Bond - Harrod's oud 8. Amouage - Jubilation XXV
    9. Parf. Brückner - Aoud 1 10. Clive Christian - X
    11.Xerjoff - Regio 12. Lush - Breath of God
    13. M.Micaleff - Art collec. 102 14. Armani Privé - Figuier eden
    15. Nasomatto - Pardon 16. Heeley - Oranges and lemons ...

  28. #28
    Basenotes Junkie Shaka's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by MrAndySais View Post
    Joop! - Homme

    /close thread
    Absolutely!!!

  29. #29

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Shaka View Post
    Absolutely!!!
    Is this a joke?

  30. #30

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    WildThingy, it may not be your intentions but you have a way of unfavorably disrupting threads.
    I would nominate :
    <a list>
    To name a few.
    Sorry, for me it really really - really - doesn't make sense to list fragrance names. Really! Its less than a 1/100 of the fun. 90/100 of it is to discuss the question, and give reasonable answers. If You feel this disrupts a thread, You are quite sensitive against reasoning!
    Last edited by WildThingy; 25th February 2012 at 07:56 AM.

  31. #31

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.
    I am aware that fragrances get reformulated, and many who loved the originals are not as fond of the reformulations, but I don't think that should stop people from answering in any way. So maybe Chanel No. 5 from 1965 was better than Chanel No. 5 2008 and so on, but if I see ten people in here nominate Chanel No. 5, I perceive it as a winner of masterpiece status. Because in its many forms and evolutions, a masterpiece can be experienced even if it is an revision of the first masterpiece.

    Just because one person says the current Chanel No. 5 is a masterpiece and another might specify 'Original Formulation' or 'Vintage', doesn't mean that it should be left out due to the complication that some might be considering it as it stands now and some might have a specific rendition they believe deserves the title.

    Basically, if you have in mind a fragrance that you believe is worthy of such recognition, regardless of its production status, post it here.

    I sort of want to know which greats people have in common on their lists so I can see that maybe a certain bunch appear in here several times or that someone feels a certain formulation from long ago was known to be one of the legends of fragrance.

  32. #32
    Frag Bomb Squadron XVII
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    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    I wonder when Leonardo da Vinci painted Mona Lisa, did he ever thought of it as the masterpiece it has become today?? Can 'hype' somehow turn a competent piece of work into a much revered 'masterpiece'? It seems (hidden or hitherto unknown) gems acquire the masterpiece status only after they are discovered, marketed widely to much (critical?) acclaim, and satisfy some important opinionmakers. Even after reformulations, the star power (of say Chanel No.5) stays undiminished and the name endures. A triumph of marketing over substance? In the beverage industry, is Coke a masterpiece?

    Back to topic, I think one of the greats that require little introduction would be Guerlain's Mitsouko.
    Last edited by Diamondflame; 25th February 2012 at 07:38 AM.

  33. #33

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    I wonder when Leonardo da Vinci painted Mona Lisa, did he ever thought of it as the masterpiece it has become today?? Can 'hype' somehow turn a competent piece of work into a much revered 'masterpiece'? It seems (hidden or hitherto unknown) gems acquire the masterpiece status only after they are discovered, marketed widely to much (critical?) acclaim, and satisfy some important opinionmakers. Even after reformulations, the star power (of say Chanel No.5) stays undiminished and the name endures. A triumph of marketing over substance? In the beverage industry, is Coke a masterpiece?
    I suppose I am asking for the 'discovered' masterpieces. It really is hard to say whether something is a masterpiece if no one cares to build an appreciation for it.

    Mona Lisa would perhaps just be another painting if it were stored in a cellar and never found, never acclaimed. I think such status requires people to make it big or lasting as a legend or masterpiece. We are, after all, the ones titling the works as such.

  34. #34

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    ...
    "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.
    I know the original Beethoven - I work for a living in his former hometown, knowing about the teeny cult too. I understand the analogy.

    Perfume is made to be multiplied millions of times. It is an industrial product. It is spread out to be used in arbitrary, unpredictable situations. Its more like a pop song than a symphony. Boiled down to this perspective, I would suggest to measure a perfumes merits against just the main theme, or if You will the refrain. Chanel #5 is - reformulated or not - still unique in that it is unprecedented. Same with Jicky. Or - a forgotten masterpiece(!) L.T.Piver - Floramaye. And the most condemned of all times: Secretions Magnifique.

  35. #35

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Knize Ten, No. 5, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Caron pour un Homme, EdC by Farina Gegenuber, Floris No. 89 would definitely belong to my Hall of Fame

  36. #36

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Reformulation and the secrecy of formulation itself makes this a difficult prospect.

    I'm not a hierarchy builder, but even if I was, imagine this...

    Take a famous work of art. I'll use Beethoven's Fifth. Now imagine that, due to budget cuts, it had to have it reduced to a group of six players. The later down the line, it had to be changed again, from six to two. Then, it needed to made shorter, first to fit fifteen minutes, then, only three. Then it was put on a very tightly compressed audio so it could be easily downloaded.

    Now, add on to this, in this world, only a few dozen people at most know the original Beethoven work. For most of the world, when they think of Beethoven's Fifth, they think of a tinny trumpet and piano recording that comes in at 2:59 and seems very unremarkable, yet is still somewhat popular due to its historical provenance. To them, this is Beethoven's most famous symphony, and the forces at work marketing don't want them to know any better.

    This is the reality of all of the ''classics" for decades ago, even the ones that are still nice fragrances now. As the fragrance world is built now, it's very hard for any form of fragrant artistry to span generations in any meaningful sense.

    A couple years ago, I took a friend of my mother's for some perfume sniffing. I put a tester strip under her nose and asked "What is this fragrance?" She didn't know; she'd never smelled it. When I told her it was Chanel No. 5, a fragrance she'd worn from the early '60s until the end of the '80s, she was aghast - "That's not Chanel No. 5!", she insisted.

    The sad thing is, she was right.

    Well said.

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  37. #37

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Nicely put, Sugandaraja.

    Masterpieces? Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar et al, and Chanel No.5, of course. I'll add Sous le Vent to the line-up with all the usual suspects. It's so much easier with the benefit of hindsight, particularly if we allow 'Masterpiece' to encompass iconic stature + both critical and commercial acclaim. There seem to have been plenty of threads pointing out the obvious. Personally, I get my fun by trying to identify the more recent works that are 'potential masterpieces'. And then buying an extra bottle or two if I happen to like it because, well . . . see above by Suga.

    Some fairly recent ones that I think are contenders:

    Une Fleur de Cassie
    Attrape Coeur / Guet Appens
    Homage (First Edition)
    L'Abeille (First Edition)
    Insolence EDP
    L'Heure Fougueuse
    Balsamo della Mecca
    Tiffany for Men
    31 Rue Cambon
    Derby
    Carnal Flower
    Terre d'Hermes
    New York
    Leather Oud
    Granville (yes, the new Dior one that seems so 'obvious' but just nails it).

    There's lots more out there
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 25th February 2012 at 04:37 PM.

  38. #38

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Mr.reasonable, same here. I feel that Sartorial will soon join the ranks.

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  39. #39

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Personally, I get my fun by trying to identify the more recent works that are 'potential masterpieces'.
    Yep, in this context I strongly believe that a bunch of Histoires De Parfums, some Tauers, some CDG, and the whole Vero Profumo line will join the ranks pretty soon...
    Last edited by alfarom; 25th February 2012 at 01:53 PM.


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  40. #40

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Mr.reasonable, same here. I feel that Sartorial will soon join the ranks.
    Its competent - did You ever compare it to Givenchy - Monsieur De Givenchy? If a masterpiece should stand for a genre, the latter would be it.

  41. #41

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by WildThingy View Post
    I know the original Beethoven - I work for a living in his former hometown, knowing about the teeny cult too. I understand the analogy.

    Perfume is made to be multiplied millions of times. It is an industrial product. It is spread out to be used in arbitrary, unpredictable situations. Its more like a pop song than a symphony. Boiled down to this perspective, I would suggest to measure a perfumes merits against just the main theme, or if You will the refrain. Chanel #5 is - reformulated or not - still unique in that it is unprecedented. Same with Jicky. Or - a forgotten masterpiece(!) L.T.Piver - Floramaye. And the most condemned of all times: Secretions Magnifique.
    I disagree. A perfume made year after year without batch variations is like a CD of a symphony (or a pop song). A perfume on the spot for the individual customer is like a live performance. I would view perfume compositions like musical compositions. A reformulated perfume is like an reorchestrated symphony or a pop song remix. Whether a perfume is a pop song or a symphony, that's another question.

  42. #42

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    I disagree. A perfume made year after year without batch variations is like a CD of a symphony (or a pop song). A perfume on the spot for the individual customer is like a live performance. I would view perfume compositions like musical compositions. A reformulated perfume is like an reorchestrated symphony or a pop song remix. Whether a perfume is a pop song or a symphony, that's another question.

    Very interesting thoughts man. But personally I think the only problem is that when the remix or the reorchestration is motivated by a desire to save production cost, it literally cheapens the value (not just in cost and money, but artisinal value, quality, craftsmanship) of the fragrance.

  43. #43

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    I disagree. A perfume made year after year without batch variations is like a CD of a symphony (or a pop song). A perfume on the spot for the individual customer is like a live performance. I would view perfume compositions like musical compositions. A reformulated perfume is like an reorchestrated symphony or a pop song remix. Whether a perfume is a pop song or a symphony, that's another question.
    A good extension of an analogy! For the record, I used Beethoven's Fifth just as a familiar example - it could have been a bowdlerized book, or a badly restored and altered painting.

    To some extent, even very famous works of art are ''reformulated" in some sense, too. In classical music, there has been a huge growth in playing authentically these past fifty years ( i.e. trying to emulate the instruments playing styles of the time the music was written in ), but playing a Mozart symphony or a Vivaldi concerto on a sea of high-tension, steel-wound strings; Boehm-system keyed woodwinds; and modern valved brass instruments - all children of the industrial revolution, is very much akin to reformulation. Nothing makes me laugh like seeing a period drama done with great attention to detail then then seeing a flub like a valved trumpet appearing.

    There seems to be a growing interest in a similar "period practice" in perfumery, though it's still pretty nascent at this time.

  44. #44

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Chanel No. 5 is still a good fragrance. But I don't think even Luca would claim it hasn't been reformulated.
    From the recent Little Book of Perfumes:

    "2011: Let it be said that the Chanel crew must have worked shifts to keep No. 5 constant in the face of restrictions or supply difficulties affecting just about everything that goes into it: jasmine, rose, sandalwood, citrus. The fact that 2011 is even close to what it was is a testament to their skill. Only a weird ketonic note up top, less rich nuttiness in the heart, and less strength in the drydown serve to remind us that IFRA are a bunch of traitors". LT

    I have said it elsewhere but my bet is that those in the industry who were hoping this would be a nicey nicey Little Black Book of the Best 100 Perfumes sales aid will have choked on their coffee when they saw how LT & TS have relentlessly drummed home the major hit that so many of these masterpieces have taken at the hands of the very same industry that makes 'em and sells 'em.

    PS

    Yes, alfarom, Vero Kern. Beautiful work, esp. Onda - masterpiece-worthy.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 2nd March 2012 at 08:26 AM.

  45. #45

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    Yep, in this context I strongly believe that a bunch of Histoires De Parfums, some Tauers, some CDG, and the whole Vero Profumo line will join the ranks pretty soon...
    I like thinking about that too. What recent scents are such sure winners?

    I haven't smelled Puredistance M yet, but I was curious if anyone thought it would have lasting praise.

  46. #46

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannon View Post
    I haven't smelled Puredistance M yet, but I was curious if anyone thought it would have lasting praise.
    It certainly has its loyal followers, but (as mentioned elsewhere) it has a bit of a Brown Problem.

  47. #47

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    c h a n e l - e g o i s t e

  48. #48

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    It certainly has its loyal followers, but (as mentioned elsewhere) it has a bit of a Brown Problem.
    Err... What exactly is a Brown Problem? I hope it isn't as icky as it sounds...

  49. #49

    Default Re: The Greatest Masterpiece Fragrances

    To many to name from different houses, you got:

    Creed
    FM
    Guerlain
    HEELEY
    CdG
    Serge Lutens
    HdP

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