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  1. #1
    Hillaire
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    Default The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    For any who were confused the sign-up thread's closure, it was simply closed (by my behest) because it was filled-up, and I did not want to/ could not turn anyone down. And its simply as big as I can imagine, right now, a handful of destinations. I am so touched my proposal generated such interest from such passionate and eloquent basenoters, the newly fascinated, as well as the alread-'names' in vintage perfume knowledge.

    I am truly excited; it's been fun smelling old ciritc-things all week!

  2. #2

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    That was sweet of you to do that, Hillaire. I'm looking forward to reading everyone's impressions.

  3. #3
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    My, but assembling this sample pack has proved a project and a half!
    However, it is coming to a close, and I intend to mail out on Monday!
    I'll post again when I do!

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Make it a pleasure not chore x

  5. #5
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I've been getting warmed up - wearing my Azemour les Orangers sample now, and have been wearing chypre-y citruses at night. Chanel for Men recently, too.

    Do Acqua di Parma Colonia and the Intensa count? The Intensa especially smells pretty chypric to me ... I think? I'm waiting for my Eau de Rochas and Signoricci minis to come too!
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  6. #6
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    I've been getting warmed up - wearing my Azemour les Orangers sample now, and have been wearing chypre-y citruses at night. Chanel for Men recently, too.

    Do Acqua di Parma Colonia and the Intensa count? The Intensa especially smells pretty chypric to me ... I think? I'm waiting for my Eau de Rochas and Signoricci minis to come too!
    OOh, I cannot wait for your Signoricci minis to arrive, and your Rochas. Those are SO great.
    I like it that you are 'warming up' ! That really tickled me!
    As for the acqua di Parma, "no." (Just kidding!) It's a good one.



    @Alityke, dear. But work is my pleasure.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 6th March 2012 at 03:54 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Hope your beard is less prevalent than the guy on the left hehehe

  8. #8
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    The package is on its way! Yeah!

    Once again, so that you can give your address to the person before you, here is the order:

    I'll mail to Alityke
    Altikye mails to Larimar
    Larimar mails to Cacio
    Cacio mails to Rubegon
    Rubegon mails to jujy54
    jujy54 mails it to OVincze


    A good amount of time to sniff your way through this heap is a week. I am excited now!
    Let me know if you have any questions by PM or post them here.

    OVincze, I know you were wondering about your addie and when it went out as well as if there is a thread that continues the 'talk' I hope this answers all your questions.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 6th March 2012 at 03:56 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    *stalking this thread *

    for swap/sale:





  10. #10

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I'll post to this thread when I receive them

    *Eagerly waiting by the letterbox*

  11. #11

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Aw bummer! I have just discovered this thread. What a great project! Oh well, I have posted so that I am subscribed and I can enjoy all of your experiences by proxy! Looking forward to it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Wow, really exciting! I am enjoying Azuree today. I cannot wait for those really cool samples to arive. Definitely look forward to them, well, I will have some time to prepare for sure and it will only make me more excited as well.

  13. #13
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I finally got one of my minis yesterday - Signoricci 2! USPS moves much slower than the interwebs. I'm going to try it out this weekend.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  14. #14
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I am also signing on here to read everyone's impressions when their samples arrive.

  15. #15

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Still waiting.... Regular actions on arrival home from work.

    Open back door, run through house to letter box, sigh when no scent samples.

    I know they have 1000s of miles to cross and customs to get through but I'm so excited!

  16. #16
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Oh, my goodness! That's so adorable. I hope it lives up to the fantasy!
    It'll a be a few more days; I am thinking Tues. Or Wed. -- or maybe longer.

  17. #17

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I have received a note from the postie that there is a package to collect it's too large to go through the letter box. As everything else I was expected has been delivered. So I suspect it will be the lovely chypre pack put together by our wonderful Hillaire.

    So 7am will find me at the post office and 7.05 will find me tearing it open in the car.

    Will confirm tomorrow evening.

  18. #18

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Way hay I was right It has arrived.

    Hillaire you are wonderful. I won't spoil the surprise for others in the group, but how lovely Thank you for your generosity from the bottom of my heart

    I did open the envelope in the car as I forecast and the drive to work was accompanied by AG Nuits D'Hadrien on my left arm and Chamade on my right arm.

    The AG N D'H is a bright citrus in the top and has now faded to a gentle spiced moss. Not sure how the longevity will be on me AG's tend to fade quite rapidly on my skin.

    On my is Chamade. The top didn't have any citrus on me and truth be told I wasn't keen on the it, now though I'm getting a blousy rosy floral with a little wood and moss behind it which is very Guerlain and I like it much more than the opening.

    On my left wrist is YSL In Love Again. Getting grapefruit and blackcurrent in the top and has yet that is where it has stayed. I can imaging a good spray of this on a warm day would be lovely and refreshing.

    On my right wrist is Balmain's Vent Vert. Green in the opening and into the middle but not linear. The green has changed and warmed a little. So far VV is my favourite.

    Work calls so will be back at lunchtime with an update and this afternoons samples.
    Last edited by Alityke; 14th March 2012 at 08:00 AM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Hi
    Its lunchtime so 5 hours into the drydown of the four samples applied this morning.
    AG Nuits D'Hadrien has now gone. 2 hours in it suddenly blew lots of cumin at me then rapidly left. Like the top very much, the spiced middle was interesting but the sudden cumin hit was unexpected.

    Chamade as per my earlier thread, didn't particularly like the opening but did like the floral, rosy trumpet voluntary that came in the middle. The drydown I felt was rather "meh" and flat. There was tonka but little moss. It lasted for four hours so moderate longevity from a relatively small sample dab.

    YSL In Love Again the blackcurrent greenery remains throught, I liked the opening, very fresh. The mid notes I have found rather too sweet for my personal taste but not unpleasant at all. The drydown remained sweet and green, rather odd but not unpleasant. Again longevity of 4 hours for a small dab. I could enjoy this as a summer sprayed scent and will test from a counter now its on rerelease.

    Vent Vert, now were talking, crisp green opening, smooth green middle and a mossy woody dry down. Right up my alley. A grown up scent for a woman not a girl but not an old woman scent at all. Nothing old fashioned or dated but polished and knowing. This could easily be FB worthy but I shall try to do a full wearing of the batch I buy first.

    Onto this afternoons tests scents.
    Left arm Patou's Vacances wow green green green green green galbanum with may be a touch of lavender
    Right arm Edelweiss burgduft lovely floral but crisp opening
    Left wrist Paco Rabanne Eau de Calandre unusual slightly plasticine opening which made me cough a little.
    Right wrist Kanebo Morenosei rather dry lemongrass opening reminiscent of thai food

    Lunchtime over so will report back after work this evening

  20. #20
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I'm enjoying reading your reviews, Alityke.

    The delightful YSL In Love Again was indeed re-issued, but was then discontinued a second time several years back, although bottles can still be found. The re-issue smells the same as the original (it wasn't reformulated when re-issued.)

    It has two flankers that I have not smelled, In Love Again Jasmine Etoile and In Love Again Fleur de la Passion. Buyer beware: Read carefully-- there are a lot more of the flankers up for sale online than there are of the re-issued, original scent In Love Again, and the image of the re-issued original scent with the green box is sometimes incorrectly shown when it's actually a flanker that is being sold.


  21. #21

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    You're doing an excellent job with your reports, Alityke! Very interesting. I felt pretty much the same as you about Chamade. And I so wanted to love it.

    Hillaire, love the new avatar! Very pretty pic!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  22. #22

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    [QUOTE=30 Roses;2493629]

    The delightful YSL In Love Again was indeed re-issued, but was then discontinued a second time several years back, although bottles can still be found. The re-issue smells the same as the original (it wasn't reformulated when re-issued.)
    QUOTE]

    In Love Again has just been re-issued a third time in the cream chess piece 80ml version along with Y, Yvresse and Nu. Nu and Y remain as I remember them but as I never tried ILA on the first 2 occasions I wouldn't know. I feel a full wearing coming on from the Boots counter this weekend

  23. #23

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    A quick update
    Patou's Vacances is still going but i cannot find a chypre dry down or mid notes. Its now quite old ladyish in a lavender bag way.

    Edelweiss Burgduft this is sweet, soft and completely pink floral on me. I can appreciate it but it isnt to my taste.

    Paco Rabanne Eau de Calandre yes I'm getting something of a mossy drydown but the plastic note is still hindering me. Smells of how the Swinging 60's should have smelled in London

    Kanebo Morenosei this dried into a classic chypre middle which I liked very much but it's now gone whereas the other 3 are all still going

  24. #24
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by Alityke View Post
    In Love Again has just been re-issued a third time in the cream chess piece 80ml version along with Y, Yvresse and Nu. Nu and Y remain as I remember them but as I never tried ILA on the first 2 occasions I wouldn't know. I feel a full wearing coming on from the Boots counter this weekend
    Good to know that! It should never have been discontinued.


  25. #25

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Just about to sign of from work so another quick update

    Patou's Vacances all but gone now. See last notes for dry down
    Edelweiss burgduft wood, pink flowers and a little moss in the drydown, still there so quite tenacious.
    Paco Rabanne Eau de Calandre thankfully left me. I disliked the plasticity of this
    Kanebo Morenosei completely gone. Longevity not it's strong point but the best chypre of this test

  26. #26

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Oh, how fun, it will be interesting to see whether we like the same things or not, I find that our tastes are quite similar Alityke! BTW, I am wearing Sisley thanks to you today and I have worn Diorella and Azuree as well, very nice ones for sure!

  27. #27

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I'm going to add some of my chypres that fit the bill as well if I can get some more tubes from the pharmacist. Think he's getting fed up of me now though.

    I have a tired nose this evening

  28. #28
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Alityke! I am glad you got it and all is sound.

    I am very much enjoying your comments. I agree with you, actually, about most. I woule never call Vaccances old-ladyish (tsk LOL!), but you are right. It's pre-chypre, but so verdant I thought it should be smelled.

    The Chamade is not a favorite of mine either. You smelled the latest version, which I prefer to the more high-octane original, personally.

    Best of fun!

    PS I knew you'd dig Vent Vert. It's the citric paradigm, after all.

  29. #29
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by perfumedlady View Post

    hillaire, love the new avatar! Very pretty pic!
    thank you!

  30. #30
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Holy crap! I can already see that my comments are going to be way below par in this sampler. Great job, Alityke! I'm taking notes - and, I'm so glad I'm not going first on this one.

    This isn't exactly sampler related, but it came from the first thread. I got my Signoricci 2 and Eau de Rochas minis last week. I didn't get to try them over the weekend because a mother load of vintage Guerlain stuff landed on my doorstep and demanded my attention.

    I wanted to post some impressions of my citric minis here and get some feedback before the mother of all samplers arrives at my doorstep. I need to study!



    Now, I've given the Eau de Rochas a try tonight after work - I'll try the Ricci tomorrow.

    Eau de Rochas ran its course in about 2-3 hours. I'm reapplying now to play it back again.

    My first impression is lots of lemon. Other citrus as well, I suppose - it doesn't smell like pure lemon oil, so there must be something else. I can't perceive separation between the citric notes, though.

    My wife was in the room the first time I applied and she gave me a look and asked "Are you wearing Shalimar?" (she thinks the Shalimar belongs to her - hah!). I couldn't believe she confused the two. Maybe its because when you apply Shalimar, the first thing that flies out into the room is the citrus. It's bergamot, not lemon - but none of her other perfumes have any citrus to speak of, so maybe that was it (she mostly wears Shalimar, Idylle, and a couple of powdery Kenzos).

    Now that I'm wearing Eau de Rochas again, I do get a somewhat Guerlain-esque character from the citric opening. Reading some reviews, I see that the notes include amber and sandalwood. I never would have picked those out, but maybe it is their presence that gives this effect.

    Within about 30 minutes, most of the citrus has burned off and it's more balanced. Balanced with what I can't say. The notes cite florals in the heart but I can't smell them. It seems more like the soft base notes becoming distinctly perceptible as the citrus fades. An hour in, it is very faint - nose to skin gives a soft impression but no sillage, unless olfactory fatigue is blinding me to it. By the 2 hour mark it's almost all gone - putting my nose in my shirt or to my wrist, I think I can still detect it, but it's kind of like when you are trying really hard to hear the beep when taking a hearing test - I wouldn't bet on it. (note: my skin absorbs fragrance pretty quickly, so this may be faster than on someone with less absorptive epidermis)

    That felt like a pretty pathetic attempt. Sorry! It's the height of allergy season, and I think my nose is not at its best.

    Overall, I would classify this as a traditional eau de cologne. Mostly top notes with a little bit of heavy stuff to improve longevity and lend character and distinction. I see more resemblance to Imperiale than to, say, Chanel Pour Monsiuer.

    In EdR and Imperiale, the citrus is the star of the show. Imperiale flips on the lights after 20 minutes and shows you the door - EdR stays on stage a little longer, and has some funky jazz playing as the crowd works its way out of the auditorium. With CpM, the citrus is just the opening act for the darker, more complex headliner.

    I suppose it's a spectrum, and EdR is somewhere in between I and CpM. Is this making any sense, or am I just wandering around in the weeds?

    Is any citric eau de cologne with a foundation of some base notes a citric chypre, in some sense? I know that the traditional formula included oak moss in the base, but now that it's not used I suppose the definition must be broadened.

    To put it simply - what makes something a chypre? I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts, as this is very muddy in my mind.

    Whoa! This ended up being waaaay longer than I planned. Sorry!
    Last edited by rubegon; 15th March 2012 at 07:29 AM.
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  31. #31

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    Holy crap! I can already see that my comments are going to be way below par in this sampler. I'm so glad I'm not going first.

    [ "Are you wearing Shalimar?" (she thinks the Shalimar belongs to her - hah!).

    Is any citric eau de cologne with a foundation of some base notes a citric chypre, in some sense? I know that the traditional formula included oak moss in the base, but now that it's not used I suppose the definition must be broadened.

    To put it simply - what makes something a chypre? I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts, as this is very muddy in my mind.
    Great job, great effort, Alityke! Impressing!

    Thank you for your sympathy, rubegon! I'm next on the list to sample... gulp!

    Well, truth does not have to be told with regard to Shalimar and your wife's idea!

    Chypré? I am very excited to have the chance to participate here as green chyprés are tricky for me. As you pointed out, rubegon, there is a classic bergamot - labdanum - oakmoss structure in the prototype chypré. I will include (I have Hillaire's permission ) a Sous le Vent sample to the sample pack. Now, I can see why some say they see it more as a fougere, although I disagree - to my liking this is a quintessential chypré and possibly my most favorite of all, but at least from the house of Guerlain. It is the aromatic, bitter and mossy quality (Sous le Vent has oakmoss extract listed, too), a somewhat frugal (dry) nature that makes it so chypré for me. This is just my lay interpretation, but I give you another example. Parure is considered a chypré. I can perfectly well *feel* this with the EdT, where - somewhat naturally - the concentration makes for a 'frugal' structure and feel. I can see it in its extrait concentration, too, but less so since the dark rose is so opulent and the whole accord around it that the opulence slightly masks the chypré perception IMHO. We all perceive things differently, but that is how I feel about it.
    Thanks again, Hillaire for giving us the chance here! You are too generous. I too like the avatar pic a lot - a very telling and strong expression!

  32. #32
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Thank you rubegon, your comments are great. I think you are right about Eau de Rochas being closer to an Eau de Cologne than what you think of as 'chypres'. The only problem is that some EdCs are in fact chypres, too. Not mutually exclusive, it get's confusing.

    O de Lancome and Vent Vert are probably the most deifnitive examples of how this works. Intended as refreshing summerwear, to splash on, basically. But these too also really feel chypric in their drydown. It's often hairy in the more citric terrain especially. I have grown very sensitive to the interplay of patchouli, moss, and bergamot (and sometimes labdanum) that -- if in a very specific way are played with -- constitute a "chypre". Even when the overwhelming message is "EdC Splash!!".

    I hope that Signoricci 2 will help you make the connection. It's more of a proper chypre (like Chanel PM), but it's also a very decent EdC, for all intents and purposes.

    As to what constitutes a true chypre -- I must get into this, ru, I think, to help you think of what makes anything a kind of chypre -- it's a very narrowly delineated ratio of bergamot, patchouli, and okamoss (and originally labdanum, too). It's signature is reacognizable, once you get to know it.

    But, and I emphasize that but -- its ratio is only specific in and of itself: it can be a small player in another kind of perfume. For Example, some chypre florals I know (I don't know why Goldleaf just popped into my mind. Oh, maybe because I am wearing it. LOL!) smell just like plain ol' flowery florals upon first blast; the chypre is just a small player in their effect. But it's chypre once you catch it, absolutely!

    Some fragrances are BIG on the chypre, and build around it with the other ingredients, tweaking it and personalizing it, and I love those most (I love chypre). Cabochard goes here, Azuree goes here (a leather to me and not at citric). These are easy to recognize. Some even add more of one chypric ingredient to hoke up the chypre and take it to an angle. I am thinking of Ungaro's Diva, which is an oakmoss bomb, and of HdP's Marquis de Sade, which is a pathouli bomb. Chypres are so much fun to dive into!

    So to answer your question about whether EdCs with certain base ingredients are citric chypres:

    a. There are not fast rules in terminology. EdCs are certainly EdCs, so it's not neccessary to nitpick, actually. It just happens I do.
    b. As you get now, it's more than basenotes, it's a balanced recipe basenotes and topnotes added to said EdC, which makes it a citric chypre (as well as an EdC)... when one does care to nitpick.

    And with regard to new, mossfree chypres: This perfumista, for one, says, "Like Hell".


    That said, in my recommendations and in my sample pack, too. I took great 'perfuma-poetic' interpretive licence with the "notion" of the "citric chypre". So please keep that in mind, all Some of my choices were citric alone, and not chypric in the least. Some were chypric and not too very citric (but maybe their verdancy or refreshing quality inspired me too offer them). And some were just plain verdant. And some were just a wild take on citrus that made me smile... You get the point....

    I wish I had separated the absolutely categorical citric chypres in my sample box! But if it's of interest to anyone, I'd be happy to identify those true blues as we progress!

    So far, only the Vent Vert and the Kanebo, and the Eau de Calandre fit the bill. And Alityke would probably agree they smell nothing alike. Lots of fun


    Oh! One more thing, and then I am done about chypres. I say this on these female frag boards all the time because I am silly and a tad fussy. But the simply seeing notes of Bergamot, Okamoss, and Patchouli does not mean it's a chypre! I explained the ratio bit above, so the reasons make sense, why those notes can act independently of a chypre accord. But it's a fallacy I see so often it hurts, because so many vintages used those ingredients, which aren't chypres. Like lots of Orientals and Aldehydics. Oh, Aldehydics get really hairy, because some chypres are really aldehydic (Y) and some aldehydics are almost chypres, too (19).

    Okay, need to shut the piehole, going to bed now.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 16th March 2012 at 08:08 PM. Reason: to make grammer and spelink more betterer

  33. #33

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    I'm nosily piggybacking too. I love threads like these. It is what perfume is all about, sharing and playing and sniffing.

  34. #34

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Working so cant spend time reading the whole thread.

    This morning is
    Left arm Yves Rocher Desir de Nature - one word Cabotine! Flowers in a green lawn
    Left wrist Ma Griffe pure green with a tiny hint of citrus
    Right wrist Parfums de Nicolai Eau Turquiose, truth be told I cant comment as I cant smell it at all
    Right arm Yves Rocher Chevrefeuille, no citrus in the top but is floral

    Back at lunch

  35. #35

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Popped back with a quick report on this mornings tests before I wash them off and start on this afternoons

    Yves Rocher Desir de Nature - continues in the cabotine framework. It's still going and is very linear. Started off floral and green and is still floral and green. I'm not getting much moss here

    Ma Griffe has turned into a classic citrus chypre and is very much to my taste. Still going with the green mossy bones of a drydown. My favourite so far

    Parfums de Nicolai Eau Turquiose, what ever this smells of I'm anosmic to. I cannot smell anything from this.

    Yves Rocher Chevrefeuille, mid notes were pure floral to my nose. Pretty insipid and it has now gone completely.

    Back when I've washed my wrist/arms and applied this afternoons testers.

    This is fun

  36. #36

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    OK post lunch and washed off this mornings tests and starting this afternoons.

    Left arm E Coudray's Givrine, a favourite of Hillaire's mum if I remember correctly. Opens with a slightly sherbetty lemon with a teensy bit of bubblegum rose in there

    Left wrist Gres Air du Cabochard, this is much butcher, citrus yes but a decided hit of leather in there, reminds me of a more refined version of the opening of EldO Rien. Great opening

    Right wrist Eau de Lubin, strong bergamot opening which tickled my nose. Getting may be a little shoe polish which is not unpleasant. Reminds me of the smell of an English stately home that's open to the public is a very good way, strong polished oak wood accord

    Right arm Lancome's Climat, the opening is of home made pink lemonade with a soupcon of raspberry in there but that lasted only a minute or so, then into astringent green grass.

    These 4 are goodies and may need individual tests to report on more fully if I have time before passing onto Larimar

  37. #37

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    This thread is fantastic! I have just treated myself to a hunker down with it with my afternoon coffee. I loved your comments Alityke, and Rubegon, and everyone actually. I am definately coming back to take some notes.

    Hillaire, is that gorgeous bright knowing sexy twinkly woman really you? What a lovely photo!

  38. #38

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Great comments, great thread! Yes, Hilliare, your new avatar is gorgeous (so that must be you)!

    Alityke, I also found Calandre a bit plasticky, but I have not tried it for years. It was one of my mother's signature scents in the 70s and it smelled wonderful on her, but I couldn't wear it. Whatever goes plastic on me smells great on her.

    Chamade in edc is wonderful - brighter, lighter, spritzier. It was my favorite formulation - but again that was years ago and I only knew extrait and edc, and the cologne was my favorite. I love Guerlain classics in edc. Hope you don't mind my adding my comments to your sniffa thread.

    I've never tried YSL In Love Again but I may hunt some down, that sounds like my kind of thing.

    I love YR Désir de Nature, I have a bottle a Basenoter sent me a couple of years ago. I pick up a little bit of mint in there I think.

  39. #39

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Mid afternoon update

    E Coudray's Givrine, a favourite of Hillaire's mum if I remember correctly. Now settled to a pure citrus with maybe a tiny flower behind it. Pretty but almost over
    Gres Air du Cabochard, a more refined Azuree now. Leather, moss and galbanum. Good solid chypre

    Eau de Lubin, getting more English Stately home that's open to the public smell is a very good way, strong polished oak wood accord continues. Still very noticable, more wood and polish than strictly citric chypre. I think I may need to purchase a sample.

    Lancome's Climat, mild green and grassy. Still tangible, not unpleasant but difficult to quantify. I need to wear this alone. I think the Lubin is getting in the way

  40. #40

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Last update today

    E Coudray's Givrine, is still there so excellent longevity. Has dried down to a pretty citrus floral but isn't showing me the bones I like. Very pretty though.

    Gres Air du Cabochard, a full mossy chypre dry down, the leather has gone but this is excellent stuff.

    Eau de Lubin, this has dried to a cumin spiced note. The wood has left and it has lost it's wonderful stately home smell I really liked.

    Lancome's Climat, disappeared at about the three hour mark. I will try this alone as I liked it's top very much but it did lose the fight with the Lubin.

    Got meetings all day tomorrow so won't be testing as I can't comment.

    Back with more on Saturday

  41. #41
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    WOW these are great reads!!! Alityke, you are so perceptive, and we agree very much.
    Please keep these until you have gotten to know them as you want to. I want no one to be rushed!!

    I am glad you love the Air du Cabochard as I do! One of my all time great Unsung Treasures. I think it's a perfectly balanced fresh chypre with a leather drydown for both genders, wouldn't you agree?

    I have to say I am surprised you found no citrus in the Chevrefeuille, though. To me, it's one of the most tarty, puckering of the lot. I shall be curious to see if others find citrus.

    Also I am happy you get the Lubin; they are a strange house, for sure. But so interesting.

    Now the Eau de Turquoise anosmia thing is fascinating!! I think of it as being really loud. I wonder what the ingredient is.



    Rubegon! I cannot wait to know if you love Signoricci 2! (It's okay if you do not [well, not really]). I uphold it as the best of its genre. And I am sorry for blathering on and on about chypres; hope I did not bore you of the subject!



    And thank you, Foustie, Larimar, liilybelle. For saying sweet things about my avatar. My son snapped it from the backseat while I was talking to the carpool bunch. He's so talented!

  42. #42

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Thank you all, this thread is fabulous. I sit down and indulge myself periodically here for a virtual try on session.

  43. #43

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    WOW these are great reads!!! Alityke, you are so perceptive, and we agree very much.
    Please keep these until you have gotten to know them as you want to. I want no one to be rushed!!

    I am glad you love the Air du Cabochard as I do! One of my all time great Unsung Treasures. I think it's a perfectly balanced fresh chypre with a leather drydown for both genders, wouldn't you agree?

    I have to say I am surprised you found no citrus in the Chevrefeuille, though. To me, it's one of the most tarty, puckering of the lot. I shall be curious to see if others find citrus.

    Also I am happy you get the Lubin; they are a strange house, for sure. But so interesting.

    Now the Eau de Turquoise anosmia thing is fascinating!! I think of it as being really loud. I wonder what the ingredient is.



    Rubegon! I cannot wait to know if you love Signoricci 2! (It's okay if you do not [well, not really]). I uphold it as the best of its genre. And I am sorry for blathering on and on about chypres; hope I did not bore you of the subject!



    And thank you, Foustie, Larimar, liilybelle. For saying sweet things about my avatar. My son snapped it from the backseat while I was talking to the carpool bunch. He's so talented!
    I'm pleased my thoughts are in line with others thinking.

    There are some I shall try again on there own as with Climat, I think they may have been ovrwhelmed by the samples close to them. I'll be back tomorrow with more thoughts on another 8 of the testers. My word Hillare that is one huge sample pack though!

    ML

  44. #44

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Wow, this thread is great already and it's just getting started! Love reading all of your posts.

    Hillaire, post #32 is absolutely brilliant, thank you for taking the time to explain as only a nit-picking mind can! Should be the reference post for anyone unclear on just what a chypre is. Required reading, IMO.

    Alityke, can't wait to hear how you get on with Climat on its own. Hope it lasts longer next time, I tend to get sparkling aldehydes and fresh cut grass for hours with that one. I think it's pretty special.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  45. #45
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Well, truth does not have to be told with regard to Shalimar and your wife's idea!
    That's right! She can have the EdP and the current parfums. My Marly horse extraits and zigzag EdCs ... well, she doesn't even know I have them to be honest.

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Chypré? I am very excited to have the chance to participate here as green chyprés are tricky for me. As you pointed out, rubegon, there is a classic bergamot - labdanum - oakmoss structure in the prototype chypré. I will include (I have Hillaire's permission ) a Sous le Vent sample to the sample pack.
    Excellent! I get to try a new Guerlain as well.

    I wonder how difficult it would be to construct a simple chypre accord with essential oils. You know, I got into this hobby because I wanted to make my own perfumes, bought Mandy Aftel's book, and then a bunch of essential oils. I tinkered around a bit and made some simple blends. Then I thought "maybe I should buy some good perfumes to have an idea what I'm trying to acheive" and from there ... well, I'm sure you can guess where that led.

    I have bergamot, oakmoss, and patchouli oils already. I could get some labdanum and mix up an array of trial accords in different ratios to try to produce the accord in isolation. I should probably get some fresh bergamot... If anyone has any ideas about where to begin with the ratios, I would appreciate it. I suppose I could post something in the DIY forum to get some help with this little side project.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Thank you rubegon, your comments are great. I think you are right about Eau de Rochas being closer to an Eau de Cologne than what you think of as 'chypres'. The only problem is that some EdCs are in fact chypres, too. Not mutually exclusive, it get's confusing.
    ...
    As to what constitutes a true chypre --... it's a very narrowly delineated ratio of bergamot, patchouli, and oakmoss (and originally labdanum, too). It's signature is recognizable, once you get to know it.

    But, and I emphasize that but . it's ratio is only specific in and of itself: it can be a small player in another kind of perfume.
    You are thanking me? H, you are far too gracious.

    Just to be clear, when I'm talking about an EdC, I mean the composition, not the concentration. I think you mean the same thing? So an EdC composition that includes the right proportions of patchouli, moss, and maybe labdanum becomes a kind of weak chypre with a citrus overload? If Eau de Rochas is like this, my nose is not a fine enough instrument to sense it (yet?).

    The chypre accord becomes like a fundamental note then, that can play a large or small role in a composition. That makes sense. This is one of those accords that seems like a thing that is distinct from its components. The analogy that comes to my mind is from chemistry - notes are to elements as accords are to compounds. The properties of the compound are unrelated to those of its elements. It's an illusion of perception in perfumery, but the effect is the same.

    I think I can see it when it is central to the comp, but if its a small player I don't notice it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I hope that Signoricci 2 will help you make the connection. It's more of a proper chypre (like Chanel PM), but it's also a very decent EdC, for all intents and purposes.


    I tried it last night, but couldn't really concentrate on it. I put it arm-to-arm against EdR, and all I really got is that it is much more tenacious, drier and earthier. It has a lot more going on than EdR.

    Today, my SOTD is Eau Noire, but I kept it off my arms. I sprayed the outside of my forearm at about 1:00pm with Signoricci 2. This is dry, bitter stuff! I do like it. It's bracing and ... palate cleansing. The composition seems very spare, with little embellishment. Not much crowd-pleasing nose candy here. I see the resemblance to Chanel for Men, but this is like CfM's wiry, trail weary, sunburned cousin riding in out of the desert. If I'm not mistaken, this is the chypre accord against a nearly white background - easy to see. I find it easy to see in CfM as well, but that compositions seems more "filled out".

    Strangely, in the first hour or so, with nose to skin, it was so sharp it produced a sightly uncomfortable burning sensation up in my nose. I'm a little worried that my olfactory perceptions are warped right now. Spring allergy season is peaking now with ragweed in full bloom. I'm snorting nasal corticosteroids daily at this point, and their delightful bug spray note may be interfering.

    Five hours on, I still can barely smell it close to the skin, and it still has a similar character. It's very nice - softer, less bitter. The drydown is graceful. It leaves a cool earthy freshness on the skin.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    And with regard to new, mossfree chypres: This perfumista, for one, says, "Like Hell".

    I wish I had separated the absolutely categorical citric chypres in my sample box! But if it's of interest to anyone, I'd be happy to identify those true blues as we progress!
    Yes, please! I need a cheat sheet, and I'm not ashamed to admit it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Alityke View Post
    Gres Air du Cabochard, a more refined Azuree now. Leather, moss and galbanum. Good solid chypre
    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I am glad you love the Air du Cabochard as I do! One of my all time great Unsung Treasures. I think it's a perfectly balanced fresh chypre with a leather drydown for both genders, wouldn't you agree?
    I'm really looking forward to this one.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Rubegon! I cannot wait to know if you love Signoricci 2! (It's okay if you do not [well, not really]). I uphold it as the best of its genre. And I am sorry for blathering on and on about chypres; hope I did not bore you of the subject!
    Now you know! EdR is a little too simple to fall in love with. S2 is a real perfume. It doesn't have much meat on the bones, but it has damn nice bones.

    As for "blathering on" ... perish the thought! I am happy to read anything you have to say. That's why I'm here!

    Damn - another long one! I tend to ramble on ... and on ... I'm the one that should apologize for blathering on.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  46. #46
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    I see the resemblance to Chanel for Men, but this is like CfM's wiry, trail weary, sunburned cousin riding in out of the desert.
    Yes! I love it! The Prince and The Pauper a bit, too. But I prefer the Signoricci 2 for some reason.

    Thanks for taking the time to share your impressions. I enjoyed 'smelling along' with you.


    The true blue chypres of the last bunch Alityke sampled would be the Eau de Lubin, the Air du Cabochard, the Climat and the Chevrefeuille.

    The Givrine is a citric floral. Very stripped down. Lemon and cream rose. One of my all time favorites.

  47. #47

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    If anyone has any ideas about where to begin with the ratios, I would appreciate it.
    I shall have a look for you.

    From my vintage Pouchers book:-
    Chypre perfumes have a considerable vogue owing to their remarkable strength and persistance. They are based very largely upon oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum, and clary sage, the flowery note being imparted with rose, jasmine etc. Bergamot or lemon is a desirable addition, to give the perfume a first sweet note of appeal.

  48. #48

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Back on the test again today. Well at least for this morning. I'm going to Megahell later to spend my vouchers.

    This morning on the left wrist we have Rochas Audace. This I recognize as being in my comfort zone of haing a good solid citric opening with some galbanum in there

    Left arm one Chanels Cristalle EdP. Lovely recognizable green lemon lime top notes. Like a refreshing cool shower. Mmmm

    Right wrist M Micallefs Ete, lemon sherbet sweetie opening... Yummy

    Right arm Chanel Cristalle EDT. Lighter green citrus opening than the EdP. More grass less lime.

    Interestingly I pull the samples from the pack at random so the odds Gods gave me the direct comparison of the two Cristelles.

    Back after lunch

  49. #49

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Rochas Audace this has dried to the good bones of a familiar citric chypre, but there's a twist. This has sweetness which becomes apparent about 15 minutes in and stays into the dry down. N interesting enough maneuver but no to my taste.
    Chanel Cristalle EdP louder than the EDT with more citrus. I get lemon, lime, lemongrass and a tiny bit of sour orange in there and this lingers into the salty oakmoss and grassy dry down. Beautiful work.
    M Micallefs Ete 30 minutes of herbet lemon fizzy fun the dry down to a very close to the skin woody sweet polishy finish. I wanted to enjoy this, I tried but for me its too sweet and lacks depth and interest. Maybe Im a philistine.
    Chanel Cristalle EDT. Quieter, greener, more astringent than the EdP. Lacks the lingering sour orange and lime but this makes it more refined and slightly more "perfumed" the dry citric top, leaves a heart of lemongrass and galbanum then dries to a tiny squeak of moss and patchouli. Gone in 3 hrs whereas the EdP is still rockin & rollin

  50. #50
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Thank you Alityke. So fun to read!

    Just a bit of backgroud re: the "dueling" Cristalles. They are not simply alternative concentrations; in this instance they are also distinct formulae. Most perfume critics (purists) lean toward the original edt formula, while I find myself much more interested in the edp, created years later by Jacques Polge; to my nose, it's richer and spicier, and that's a good thing.
    SO cool you pulled them out to compare randomly,!!!

    The Audace is a hard to find classic, which I like best of the group you sampled. Your review is spot on. My preference lies in the leather fourgere drydown, and it's unisex appeal.

    Sorry you don't like the Ete from Micallef. Guess you are just a Philistine!!!


    And the chypre report for this random sample bunch is: all four are bona fide citric chypres! Rochas Audace, Cristalle edp, Cristalle edt, and Micallef Ete (The Micallef is new-ish; must have been issued just under the IFRA wire; it's a sold chypre with a nice oakmoss drydown).

  51. #51
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Announcement!

    While fussing in my desk drawer last night, looking for a gold pen, I happened upon a little bagged sample. It was one of the ones meant to go in this pack, which must have slipped out of the box when I was packing up, Carven's Vert et Blanc. Sadly, it was one of the best I had to offer, a fine, tart chypre with a perfumey drydown! I apologize, folks. Let me know if I ought to send it Larimar, or what you suggest!


  52. #52

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    There's so much to smell already that we're risking olfactory overload!

    cacio

  53. #53

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Good morning to all. Today's morning test:

    Left wrist M Micallefs Jewel for Her. Top smells in the same family as that oriental chypre Dioressence. This is really interesting. Not citric but spicy leather to my nose. I look forward to this developing.

    Left arm YSL Pour Homme. Gorgeous lemon top really fizzy and fresh with maybe a touch of pine behind there.

    Right arm Jean Louis Scherrer Original. Green green green like being whipped in the nose by dried long grass. Very 1970s classy lady scent

    Right wrist Natura Brasil Kaiak Feminine. More cheerful lemony orange top. This has sweetness but lacks bones as yet. I'll be interested to see how this develops

    Back around lunchtime. I'm going to rescue that discounted bottle of the polar opposite of an astringent chypre I've fallen head over heeling inlove with

  54. #54

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Afternoon, back with the pre change update.

    M Micallefs Jewel for Her. What a beautiful work of art! Rich, spicy, fleshy, certainly come hither, extremely well blended where individual notes are so difficult to identify. However the dry down is showing moss and patchouli and I would say clovey carnation. Delicious, this is one I shall be sad to send onto Larimar

    YSL PH. More like an edc lemony lime even now with a tiny bit of BO thrown in so something of cumin along with the salty moss. Nice work. Good hot weather frag

    JL Scherrer Original. I'm amazed it's gone! Classic citric green chypre whilst it lasted. Even a hint of leather but too short lasting.

    Natura Brasil Kaiak Feminine. Again gone already. Did develop a mossy dry down with some sweetness but lacks longevity. Disappointing I did like that top.

    Favourite this morning is M Micallefs Jewel for Her.

  55. #55

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    This afternoons test:

    Left arm Creed Royal Water. Lemon and lemongrass opening with a watery bluebell note behind it. Smells of warm spring days. Very relaxing.

    Left wrist Yves Rocher Ev Avril un Soir. Green, dry and bitter. I like this top.

    Right arm EL Bronze Goddess Soleil. Strong bergamot opening with some skin like musk behind it to my nose. Smells warm.

    Right wrist Etienne Aigner Explosive. Anise on the opening with herbal notes behind it, the herbal notes have come to the for very quickly.

    Back later with more thoughts

  56. #56

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    3 hour update.

    Creed Royal Water. Just still present on my skin, still lemon and lemongrass with the bluebell or hyacinth in the background, very minimal moss in the dry down. This is a very nice Edc IMO but for price lacks longevity. For an edc I'd go this mornings YSL PH.

    The YR En Avril un Soir. Very little left but what is left is a pretty mixed floral base. It smells blue to my nose but that may be sow of the notes from Royal Water creeping in

    EL Bronze Goddess Soleil. Not certain I think this is chypre. This is still going, the bergamot is long gone. Leaving a rather nice warm skin smell, more musk than moss but lightly done. This is definitely FB worthy to be used as a cheerer up when it's grey and cold and summer is but a memory

    Etienne Aigner Explosive has dried to the mossy bones of a chypre base with a tiny bit of that herbal anise adding sweetness. This will have the greatest longevity but is not to my taste.

  57. #57
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Announcement!

    While fussing in my desk drawer last night, looking for a gold pen, I happened upon a little bagged sample. It was one of the ones meant to go in this pack, which must have slipped out of the box when I was packing up, Carven's Vert et Blanc. Sadly, it was one of the best I had to offer, a fine, tart chypre with a perfumey drydown! I apologize, folks. Let me know if I ought to send it Larimar, or what you suggest!

    Too bad about this. I love this one a lot! It is really special!

  58. #58

    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Last report for today

    Creed Royal Water. I'm amazed but something is still there! It doesnt smell chypric though, it smells of a very small dose of sandalwood which is quite nice.

    The Yves Rocher has now gone completely

    The EL is still there too. Very nice skin scent. No idea what these Basenotes are but if I could get a FB I would

    The Explosive has also left me which surprised me as I expected this to be the most longlasting.

    Back tomorrow with a further 8 to test. Hillaire you are a goddess amongst perfumistas, the Queen of Chypres. I don't know how to thank you enough for the gift of being able to try all these wonderful creations!

  59. #59
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Announcement!

    While fussing in my desk drawer last night, looking for a gold pen, I happened upon a little bagged sample. It was one of the ones meant to go in this pack, which must have slipped out of the box when I was packing up, Carven's Vert et Blanc. Sadly, it was one of the best I had to offer, a fine, tart chypre with a perfumey drydown! I apologize, folks. Let me know if I ought to send it Larimar, or what you suggest!
    Why not just send it to alityke? She can test it and get it to Larimar before he gets through the other 42 samples. It would be a shame for her to miss this one.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  60. #60
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Continued Citric-Green-Sampler Thread: Impressions and Notes :)

    WOW! Alityke, you are the bomb!! I honestly did not imagine the sheer undertaking of explaining one's impressions of each and everyone of these little fragrances.

    I am thrilled silly you like the Micallef Jewel so well. To me, it's a graceful, elegant classic. I fear it being discontinued. Good news for you, though, as Fortnum and Mason can send you a bottle, and their Micallef prices are really good; I bought several of my Micallefs there.

    Kumquat, thanks for your sympathy; since you know the Vert et Blanc, you can imagine how perfectly it would fit!


    The Chypre Report on the last you sampled!

    Micallef Jewel is strictly a green chypre, very galbanum-y, full-bodied and dry. But not much citric; however, the bergamot note is bananas in this sucker. Think of Ivoire with a greeeeeen, very modern presence.

    YSL PH is technically a citric fougere, and not a chypre. I included it as I find it unisex as well as one of the best lemon fragarnces on earth. I also thought it would be fun to pit the fougere accord against all the the chypres, for enrichment.

    Jean Louis Scherrer original is a straight up green, citric chypre. A paradigm.

    Natura Brasil Kaiiak Feminino is a citric floral. It's almost purely bergamot and neroli. And it's one of my favorite 'clean' scents.

    Creed Royal Water is another paradigmatic citric chypre, like Givenchy III. It's under the radar, since it's usually a masculine option, but it's actually, all chypre, even though it has a ferny character. I find it's drydown similar to the Eau de Campagne (I am jumping ahead!), personally.

    Yves Rocher en avril un soir (not to be mistaken with the new, unrelated scent by that name) is actually a floral aldehyde, but very, very green and mossy, and dry. Closest in personality to Private Collection and Calandre. I wanted to introduce it to green vintage lovers, since I think it's an unsung bit of genius.

    Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Soleil is a floral chypre with a very watery, muguet character. It's not a rich, traditional chypre; I find it quite thin. But because of the tartness of the muguet and bergamot as well as its edc type-of purpose, I thought it would please you guys!

    Etienne Aigner Explosive is another floral chypre, but a nice -- as Alityke mentioned -- herbal green one. I'd park next to Niki de Saint Phalle, but I think it's a finer fragrance. It's very hard to come by sadly, and again, I hoped it would be a treat to lovers of green -- if not super citric -- chypres.



    Thanks again, Alityke, for all your comments. I am so interested to see what charms you, as well to learn how these fragrance 'behave' on you!!!

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