Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Default How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Hello friends,
    I want to make a Chypre perfume to someone who loves Mitsouko. Anny suggestion?? Help!!!!!

  2. #2

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    I currently only use naturals so i don't have aldehyde C-14 for the peach but try this

    Oak Moss - 2
    Labdanum - 1
    Benzoin - 1
    Patchouli - 1
    Jasmine - 2
    Rose - 1
    Clove - 1
    Bergamot - 6
    Neroli - 2
    Lemon - 1
    Mandarin - 1

    This is a recipe I am currently working on if you extend let me know what you did, good luck.

  3. #3

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Quote Originally Posted by yandynestor View Post
    Hello friends,
    I want to make a Chypre perfume to someone who loves Mitsouko. Anny suggestion?? Help!!!!!
    There is a published version of Mitsouko - not the production formula but very similar - which is available on the Perfumerís Apprentice site, from which you can even buy a kit with which to make it.

    If there is an element of Mitsouko that your friend particularly appreciates you could emphasise that element in your version, making it uniquely theirs.

    Sweet orange - 10
    Lemon - 20
    Elemi - 2
    Celery seed - 5
    Chamomile, 10% - 5
    Bergamot - 130
    Tarragon 10% - 35
    Coriander - 10
    Lavender - 10
    benzyl acetate - 50
    linalyl acetate - 20
    geranium oil - 10
    Ylang Ylang - 10
    Citral - 5
    Jasmine absolute - 10
    phenyl propyl alcohol - 5
    Oak Moss - 70
    Clove 30
    Dimethyl Anthranilate - 2
    Anisyl Acetate - 3
    Benzoin 50% - 20
    Castoreum tincture 10% - 5
    Civet tincture 10% - 10
    Labdanum resin - 10
    Peru Balsam resin - 5
    Rose absolute - 20
    Methyl Ionone - 40
    Costus 10% - 20
    Ethyl Cinnamate - 10
    patchouli - 10
    vetiveryl - 20
    coumarin - 50
    hydroxy citronellal - 25
    aldehyde C-14 10% - 20
    Musk Xylene (or substitute with another musk) - 50
    Vanillin - 20
    DEP or IPM or DPG 200

    I would replace the Musk Xylene (now banned from use) with Ambrettolide or Velvione and the civet tincture with synthetic civet (the Firmenich one is very good). The PA entry does not mention it but Costus is now also prohibited by IFRA but again there is a direct replacement available (this time from Givaudan I think - it isnít a material I use normally).

    Tarragon is more usually called Estragon in perfumery so you may see the oil listed under that name.
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  4. #4

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Thanks for that Chris! gives me some good ideas on further ingredients to add to my minimal structure.

  5. #5

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Thank you guys. Thank you thank you...

  6. #6

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Am definitely going to add some oud and orris, and let see....

  7. #7

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Thanks Chris,
    i love chypre perfumes, so i have created ( with modification ) the Mitsouko perfume you have posted. This is my first perfume which really smell good. I have lowered patchouli to 0.05% ( next time i will remove it completely - i dont like patchouli i have here - even at this low concentration ).
    I have replaced musks with 4% ambrettolide + 1% velvione. I have not added Dimethyl Anthranilate, Anisyl Acetate, Citral, because i dont have them...Civet tincture replaced with Civet CNC 0.06%

    BTW: any replacement for IFRA restricted ethyl cinnamate ?.
    Last edited by Milhaus; 20th August 2014 at 01:16 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Replacing some coumarin and vanillin with the adjusted quantities of the respective tinctures improved the perfume, for me. I would replace musk xylene with ketone, as much as possible, and adjust the strength/soapiness with iso-muscone and velvione.

  9. #9

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Is the quantity of clove oil a misprint? 30 seems an awful lot!

  10. #10

    Default Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trufflehunter View Post
    Is the quantity of clove oil a misprint? 30 seems an awful lot!
    So, may I assume that you are discussing the Mitsuoko Formula? (you weren't specific)

    If so, then is there some reason that you consider 3% to be a highly potent amount for a fragrance? But if it really bothers you, then use less, or not at all. YOU'RE the Perfumer! :-)

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

Similar Threads

  1. Eau Sauvage's "Chypre accord"
    By Merely in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 26th February 2012, 10:38 PM
  2. Mitsouko vs chypre fruit montale
    By moreda in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 25th February 2009, 07:39 PM
  3. Mitsouko vs chypre fruit montale
    By moreda in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 25th February 2009, 07:00 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000