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  1. #1
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    Quarry's Avatar
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    Smile All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    With renewed enthusiasm, I invite you to join us in wearing
    a chypre fragrance on Saturday, March 3.
    Cacio has kindly sent me some Jacomo Silences to sample, and I'll be exploring that.

    * * *

    For newcomers, here's the lowdown on this monthly online event:

    Every member, any gender, novice or veteran sniffer, is invited to apply a fragrance related to the theme of the month (listed below) and share your thoughts on the first Saturday of the month. This isn't a mandatory assignment; it's just for fun. Because not everyone logs in on weekends, you're encouraged to continue to add comments within this themed thread on subsequent days. If you don't join us for this month's discussion, please look ahead at the tentative lineup and join in at a later date.
    JANUARY ~ Oriental
    (warmth, flowers, spices, woods & vanilla)
    FEBRUARY ~ Animalic
    (civet-, castoreum-, leather-, or musk-influenced scents)

    MARCH ~ Chypre
    (used to be defined by oakmoss presence, but ...?)
    APRIL ~ Floral
    (single solifore or full bouquet of flowers)
    MAY~ Fruity
    (single sweet fruits or a bowl of fruity-florals)
    JUNE ~ Citrus
    (hesperidic: bergamot, lemon, orange, grapefruit, tangerine, etc.)
    JULY ~ Green
    (fresh leaves & grasses)
    AUGUST ~ Fresh or aquatic
    (cool, dewy notes and seaside scents)
    SEPTEMBER ~ Opposite-Gender Fragrance
    OCTOBER ~ Ambery
    (dark, light or blond amber as feature note)
    NOVEMBER ~ Spicy
    (warm notes associated with cooking)
    DECEMBER ~ Gourmand
    (fragrances with a foody note, but not usually fruity--save for May)
    Looking for suggestions?
    See previous SnS discussions:
    Oriental — Jan. 2007, Jan. 2008, Jan. 2009, Jan. 2010, Jan. 2011, Jan. 2012
    Animalic — Feb. 2007, Feb. 2008, Feb. 2009, Feb. 2010, Feb. 2011, Feb. 2012
    Chypre — March 2007, March 2008, March 2009, March 2010, March 2011
    Floral — April 2007, April 2008, April 2009, April 2010, April 2011
    Fruity — May 2007, May 2008, May 2009, May 2010, May 2011
    Citrus — June 2007, June 2008, June 2009, June 2010, June 2011
    Green — July 2008, July 2009, July 2010, July 2011
    Fresh — Aug. 2008, Aug. 2009, Aug. 2010, Aug. 2011
    Fougere — Sept. 2007
    Opposite Gender — Sept. 2008, Sept. 2009, Sept. 2010, Sept. 2011
    Ambery — Oct. 2007, Oct. 2008, Oct. 2009, Oct. 2010, Oct. 2011
    Spicy — Nov. 2007, Nov. 2008, Nov. 2009, Nov. 2010, Nov. 2011
    Gourmand — Dec. 2007, Dec. 2008, Dec. 2009, Dec. 2010, Dec. 2011
    For the months of July and August 2007, regular BN was offline and supporters had access to an abbreviated site. We discussed aquatics and greens, but those posts are no longer accessible.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  2. #2

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Sounds great, love this category so will definitely participate but probably comment late (on Monday), very nice activity and sorry that I have missed the ones this year as I really loved them as well but better late than never))

  3. #3

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Here we go. Lots of chypre lovers on Basenotes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Oh, my, which chypre should I choose?
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Rose Ambre by Fragonard

  5. #5
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Oh jeez...this one's going to be hard to pick just one.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  6. #6
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Oh jeez...this one's going to be hard to pick just one.
    Well, no one says you have to limit yourself! Maybe there's a good reason that Quarry hosts these over the weekend!

    I've narrowed mine down to five, lol!
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  7. #7

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post
    I've narrowed mine down to five, lol!
    That sounds about right -- same here! Love those chypres!

  8. #8

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Much excitement in the Alityke household for this one!

  9. #9
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    I can't wait! I happen to have a new bottle of vintage Givenchy III that is superb. That may be just the one!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Ooooo Chypre Saturday ! Yes !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Well l think this Saturday might be a momentous day for me. l'm not generally a chypre gal, but l have a sample of Mitsouko (modern extrait), kindly sent to me by the lovely Mimi (thanks darlin'!), &.... l have never even sniffed Mitsouko before. No, really!
    So l guess it's time, isn't it?

    lt will have to be during the day as l'll be out with the bf in the evening; l won't risk wearing a new perfume around him without trying it first, but l'll be here with my impressions when l get the chance. l'm quite excited!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  12. #12

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Glad I found this! I've been reading Basenotes for a while and recently joined. At first when I started with fragrances last year I thought I would love chypres, but wasn't sure until just a few weeks ago. This week has been chypre week exclusively, by Saturday I should be getting ready to try my vintage Givenchy III. Or a recent purchase of Aromatic Elixir. Or Weil Antilope. All of which seem a bit daunting because they are so strong and green!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Yay, I say !!!

    I might go with the effervescent, irisy, modern-day-chypre Chanel 31, rue Cambon. Or maybe with the soft, soapy, 70's-drug-store-chypre Prince Matchabelli Cache. Or it could be the sophisticated. confident, and sexy chypre, Paloma Picasso. Hold on now, I forgot about the classically, understated and downright regal chypre, Ralph Lauren Safari. And then there's the elegant, ultra-modern floral-chypre, Bulgari Rose Essentielle. It might just have to be each of them taking a turn thoughout the day!
    "You can't change the past, but you can ruin the present by worrying about the future."

    "Three essentials for a good life: Someone to love, somewhere to go, and something to look forward to."

  14. #14
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Mikie, do my favorite on you, a semi-chypre, a spring scent d'Amour from Guerlain. It sits well on you and Ray loves lemons, I thought.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by rin_nd View Post
    Glad I found this! I've been reading Basenotes for a while and recently joined. At first when I started with fragrances last year I thought I would love chypres, but wasn't sure until just a few weeks ago. This week has been chypre week exclusively, by Saturday I should be getting ready to try my vintage Givenchy III. Or a recent purchase of Aromatic Elixir. Or Weil Antilope. All of which seem a bit daunting because they are so strong and green!
    Extra big hug and welcome to you, rin nd! Do come out and play as often as you like.
    Elixir? GIII? Antilope? And you started with fragrances just last year? Zoom, zoom, zoom! Look at you.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Mikie, do my favorite on you, a semi-chypre, a spring scent d'Amour from Guerlain. It sits well on you and Ray loves lemons, I thought.
    Philtre d'Amour? Well, like you said, that's sort of pseudo-chypre, and if it's SnS day I want to go for the whole hog and wear a grand, dramatic, big boned chypre. If you're gonna go, go large - right?

    I wish I had some Profumo by Acqua di Parma still around, I love that stuff almost as much as I love Mitsouko, which is most likely what I'll wear. And Chypre by Coty, the vintage EdP I have. And maybe some Tabac Blond extrait? Oh...you see what I mean, it's impossible to choose just one.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  17. #17

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Extra big hug and welcome to you, rin nd! Do come out and play as often as you like.
    Elixir? GIII? Antilope? And you started with fragrances just last year? Zoom, zoom, zoom! Look at you.
    Thanks Quarry! I bought a vintage set off Ebay, specially for the Miss Balmain, because after purchasing a recent Cabochard I realized I loved scent with a leather notes - so unusual I was blown away! Anyway I got lucky with the other chypres in that set, GIII, Ma Griffe, Antilope, Vivara and my now beloved Miss Balmain (I do like soliflores too). I came to perfumery through the back door via aromatherapy - I think most of my first blends were chypres needing a good base. It is now an obsession

    Plus I think I like the mature, unisex and somewhat professional quality that those vintage chypres have, as I am a professor who also sees patients and super sweet perfumes that most young women where today are just not appropriate for me and my body chemistry.

  18. #18
    Dependent knit at nite's Avatar
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    As has been noted, 'tis impossible to choose just one. I think we need at least a SnS Chypre weekend, if not a full week sometime. I have narrowed it down to.......no...will just have to see tomorrow

    Glad you joined in on the fun rin-nd!! WELCOME
    Sync'in and Think'in in 2015!
    Currently wearing: Le De by Givenchy

  19. #19

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    I shall layer my Mitsouko and also fit in some time for Lyric Woman. Yes, I shall.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  20. #20

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    My plan is for early GIII and later in the day Aromatic Elixir!

    Today my SOTD is Dioressence (not sure if vintage or not) - started with a nice and proper chypre, then morphed into a sultry balsamic oriental. Worn for the first time. Wasn't expecting the oriental quality - sometimes too heavy for me when I am at work. Was very nice, and I felt very feminine and powerful (important since I teach a bunch of unruly mid 20s young men!).

  21. #21
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Good morning SnS-ers - Happy chypre day!

    I'm starting my day in Gucci No3, a disarmingly gorgeous, sleek classic floral chypre from 1985, it's possibly (and at the moment it's absolutely) my favorite chypre from that era ...and beyond. I don't know who created it, but its perfect harmony of notes include bergamot, tuberose, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, narcissus, amber, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and vetiver. It's been discontinued for quite some time, but you can still find new-old-stock once in a while ...I hoard it. Y'all have a great day!


    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  22. #22

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Wearing the end of a bottle of 1980s vintage Givenchy III. Opens with a WHOOSH of lemon peel and bergamot then in creeps the astringent green of the galbanum... Green, grassy but still sharp from the bergamot and citrus. Delicious

  23. #23
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Caleche Hermes is part of the weekend plan. In spite of so many to choose from few are in my collection that I wear regularly.
    Perfume and incense bring joy to the heart; but the heartfelt counsel of a friend is as sweet as a fragrant forest.
    Currently wearing: Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

  24. #24

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    I think chypres are my favorite in my admittedly limited experience. After reading a previous thread "Replace 70's chypres", I ordered a few samples from Posh Peasant. Hillaire, I was impressed with your knowledge of this and am leaning strongly on your recommendations! I have a vintage Dioressence and Givenchy III to try, and this morning I picked:
    Le Temps d'Un Fete by Parfums de Nicolai. I guess that would translate to Party Time, or maybe the more innuendo filled Ball Time.

    My perfume describing skills are woefully inadequate. I do get the green grassy, new flower growth smell, mixed with soft florals. There is a sweetness to the opening, but just a faint bitter mossy smell behind it to keep it interesting. I'm 2 hours into this fragrance and the whiffs I get keep making me stop and deeply inhale my wrist. While it evokes spring time, I could see wearing it year round.

  25. #25

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    The heart of the GIII is opening now. This is crisp as a starched white shirt. Still grassy and green but theflorals are starting. I get some white flowers, possibly jasmine but a jasmine bud not an open flower, lily of the valley early in the morning whilst dewy and behind those the freshness of hyacinth and a touch of clove so dianthus must be in there too.

    The dry down is still to come

  26. #26

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    It does not get really any better than Sous le Vent in my books. The aromatic- citric opening with the Guerlain herbal bouquet (emphasis on tarragon, I think) is perfumery perfection - masterfully executed, unique and outstanding! The opening accord does remind me of juicy limes with zest and I am not the first to mention as drseid has done it before in his review for Sous le Vent. Sous le Vent lifts your mood, refreshes you and is 'sombre' enough to fit the genre and raise enough interest (with its chypré base notes and indolic/slightly animalic facet underneath the whole composition). Longevity is many hours, but very redux (if on skin only, which is best, however) after two hours. Nevertheless, a couple of days ago I did wake in the morning being enveloped in a Sous le Vent chypré aroma bubble. Possibly my favorite chypré, definitely my most favorite contemporary and one of my very most wanted Guerlains!

  27. #27
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    So today l have smelled & worn Mitsouko for the very first time!

    l don't think l need to describe the notes here, but l will attempt to describe my impressions. The opening was, as l expected, very "retro" in feel, with an underlying creaminess that quickly became more prominent, & sweeter. At this stage it seemed almost cloying & possibly headache-inducing to me, but l hung in there. After an hour it was softer & mossier, & although l didn't really recognise the peach note as such, l definitely got the "fuzzy peach skin" vibe l have read about. Three hours in, l got the salty oakmoss along with an almost ambery sweetness, & now seven hours after application it's faded but still traceable.

    l'll be honest; l didn't expect to love Mitsouko, but l can imagine growing to like her a lot after a few more wearings. She isn't bitter & green on my skin as l have found other chypres to be, but l think it's usually the addition of galbanum that ruins a perfume for me. l went into town & back while wearing her today, & l felt very "put together" & in control, which l enjoyed.

    Thanks again to Mimi for enabling me to try this one!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  28. #28

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    Mmmmm.... Teardrop you smell fab-u-lous! Try a little more and you will be under the spell of the playful and alluring Mitzie. She's very approachable and warm unlike some of her chypre sisters who sometimes tend to the austere and correct.

    Speaking of austere the Givenchy III is now down to her very high and chiseled cheekbones. Here sneaks in the warmth of vetyver, sandalwood and myrrhe with the savory oakmoss. Whilst it isnt listed to my nose there is civet. This dry down will last the evening out and I find it irresistible

  29. #29

    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    I’m wearing Estee Lauder Azurée for chypre sniff ‘n speak. I’ve recently discovered this classic and been enjoying soooo much. It is green, clean, warm and dry, but with enough sweetness to keep it from being too terribly austere and bitter. EL’s website doesn’t list leather as a note but there is an impression of leather in there, too, though I wouldn’t call this a leathery fragrance. I think it is lovely stuff, and you cannot beat the price. I love Estee Lauder for keeping their classics. Last night I refreshed my SotA, Aqaba, with Azurée on top, and the combination was gorgeous. So it's good for layering, too. I'll probably switch to something else this evening, but I don't know what yet. And maybe, as Knit says, I'll make it a chypre weekend.



    Top Notes: Basil, Jasmine, Citrus

    Middle Notes: Armoise, Vetiver, Rose

    Base Notes: Patchouli, Moss, Amber

  30. #30
    Dependent L'Incandescent's Avatar
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    Default Re: All invited *** Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3, 2012 *** CHYPRES

    I'm wearing 31 Rue Cambon for the first time today. Despite the lack of oakmoss, it really does have a chypre feel. There is something in here that at least suggests that classic chypre bitterness, even though it's not the same thing; my guess is that it's the combination of pepper and vetiver that my nose is interpreting that way. The floral heart is elegant in that trademark Chanel way, and the base, to my surprise, was somewhat ambery. Unfortunately, the longevity seems very poor.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

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