Essential first pick ? Chergui
Easiest to wear ? Gris Clair
Why am I even starting this thread? Dude I don't even know. I've read through so many damn Lutens threads. But you know the drill, very first Serge, hoping for something different. I'm really up for anything (I'm all for sweetness, I'm fine with feminine, whatever), as long as it provides some contrast to my little collection:
La Nuit de l'homme
Allure Edition Blanche
Light Blue for Men
Green Irish Tweed
Comme des Garcon 2 Man
Chergui's the shit apparently, and MKK is supposed to be great, Ambre also gets a lot of love. So I'm really sorry to do this, but I'm hoping to buy one, what's the essential first pick? Thanks!
Essential first pick ? Chergui
Easiest to wear ? Gris Clair
Well that's just it, there are so many wonderful Lutens, why jump to the most praised ones when the others are generally better. If you want to play it safe, then yes go for Chergui, after the herbal opening, if you're familiar with the scent of amber, Ambre Sultan is a safe choice also. MKK is a wonderful musk, but don't fall into the hype of pee and poo and all sorts, it's nothing of the kind.
My personal favourites are Tubereuse Criminelle, Miel De Bois amongst others and I've yet to try even half of them.
Fille En Aiguilles is another relatively safe choice.
Theres too many and everyone will list different. Find out what notes you prefer and sample sample sample.
I believe your best investment at this point is a sample pack.
Reading descriptions of many, I can say there were many surprises in what I loved, and what I didn't.
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Each Serge Lutens perfume is so differemt from the other. Theyre all good.
Unique, challenging, not straightforward, eclectic and different.
Is it not possible to try some?
I think Ambre Sultan would be the easiest to blind buy. But that's because it is one of the least lutens-esque.
You're missing florals from you collection. So I'd go for tubereuse criminelle.
(if in Paris, of course, others too - Sarrasins for instance)
Chergui, would fit in that collection nicely
Tubereuse Criminelle is a great option. But, the first time I sniffed it, it was instant love. I think it would be hard to learn to love it. I may be wrong though.
I really don't rate Chergui at all, yes hype is hype, but it also gets your opinions and expectations higher. I think if I'd sniffed Chergui without reading anything about it, I may have liked it a lot more.
Anyway, without a doubt, get a bunch of samples, you'll really appreciate it.
right now i own chergui and love it and have several samples of lutens.i like also a lot ambre sultan and Five O`Clock.
daim blond is also not bad at the opening i dislike it but after it gets nice serge noir also the same but it,s two femenin for me.
Ambre Sultan and Chypre Rouge would be my recommendations, based on previous wardrobe choices
Please sample first. They're expensive! You've read a lot, yes, but you should smell them first.
Any particular reason why you have decided on a SL? If you haven't tried any of them, I would worry you are setting yourself up for disappointment if you decided to buy something for the name on the bottle rather than because the scent itself genuinely and dramatically appealed to you. There are several SL scents I like, but I would really recommend just getting a set of samples and finding an actual scent you like.
If you email SL customer care, they will send you a free set of cards containing wax-based scents, and possibly even a handful of liquid sample sprayers as well. I did this a few months back and my set arrived with a couple weeks. Good luck!
Put your nose right into the spices; try Arabie. If you like it, I think you will enjoy many of the classic Lutens.
Personally, the first one I got was MKK. This is probably not the safest option for a blind purchase, but if you like musks you can't go wrong with it. Do you like musks?
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And plus since I'm still new to fragrances, I'll use my own brain to an extent, but I'll very often just defer to the wise men on this forum. AKA I'd fail the Milgram experiment lol.
If you live in NYC go check them out at Barneys. I dont think SAs in NYC are as generous with the samples as they are down here at barneys.
If you want to smell like a big boy get Cuir Mauresque- heavy leather. If you want filthy musk the check out MKK. Tubereuse Criminelle smells like Anbesol toothache cream. There are much better ambers than Ambre Sultan. Gris Clair is awesome burning Ivory soap.........
These change so much from beginning to end that you should wear before buying. Many of them have really bizarre openings that can put you off.
Make sure to try Borneo 1834.
Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens - Upon application, one is treated to a comforting pipe tobacco accord from the spicy and slightly tarry Balkan tobacco coupled with tonka bean with its vanillic earthiness, and white honey with its mildly sweet facet tinged with urine. A flavorful date and rum raisin currant pervades and enhances the pleasantness of the tobacco. A whisper of sensuous jasmine flitters about. Transitioning to the awaiting middle, a wonderful smokehouse accord and smoked leather envelop the inviting opening. Vanilla infuses the brew with its lightly woody and caramel aspects. And a deliciously seductive, red rose with fruity glimmers and a cabernet-like facet marries delightsome beeswax acquiring its ambery, honeyed and sweet hay character, and makes itself known. This luxurious heart segues to the waiting base. Here, in the rousing base, the syrupy sweetness of styrax commingles with the woody freshness of juniper berries, the peppery mustiness of patchouli as well as the subtly sour and urinal nuances of Peru balsam. An intriguing drydown ensues. This fascinating composition has minimal projection, remaining a skin scent and fostering its use in close quarters; however, its longevity is very good. This captivating, masculine scent is very layered and complex, and should be held in high regard in one's wardrobe.
Chene by Serge Lutens - One is initially treated to an enveloping aura of freshly planed lumber, at once astringent, somewhat akin to the sour spitup of a baby, and yet, faintly sweet. A fruity booziness of rum as well as a syrupy immortelle, with its herbaceous, sweet hay aspect, swirl about redolent of an oozed sap. Transitioning to the awaiting middle, a rich, smoky cedar rises to usurp the opening wood, while oakmoss imparts its foresty, green bitterness, which is pleasantly offset by delightsome honey. Splashes of lemony thyme flitter about. Segueing to the enriching base, a robust birch bestows its root beer commingling with wintergreen aroma. Beeswax supplies its cured tobacco and sweet hay aspects. And, tonka bean offers its rich spiciness and smokiness. The intermingling of these scents creates a pleasing drydown. This high-quality composition has average projection and very good longevity. This somewhat rustic fragrance definitely leans to the masculine side.
MKK is what you are looking for
ambre sultan is awesome, but not really wear-able if you are shy
I see you are in NYC, why not just go to Bergdorf's or Barney's and have fun smelling them all? Then order decants from Perfumed Court of a few to help you decide what bottle to get?
My vote goes for Chergui
It can't be said often enough - the sampling route is indeed the best step forward.
BUT if you're up for a blind purchase, based on your current wardrobe I recommend any one of these:
Five O Clock Au Gingembre
Feminite du Bois
Be careful though. Once you've bought a Lutens you won't stop at one.
Thanks so much to you all for your great suggestions. My first trip to Aedes yesterday taught me that I think I'm a bit too immature to wear and appreciate Lutens at the moment. I tried them out and to be very honest, I can't say I fell in love with any of them. For example, Ambre Sultan smelled a bit too minty to me, Arabie was nice but almost a bit like a sweet L'air du Desert Marocain, and Tubereuse Criminelle smelled a bit like a bathroom! I'm not in any way criticizing these scents, I'm doing the opposite and saying that I think I should develop my nose more and try again later. That being said, Chergui and MKK were nice and I thought Borneo was quite good.
Thanks again peeps!
I have a few Luten's on my list. Make sure to sample Cedre. I love that one.