Vincent Marcello was the nose behind two incredibly impactful men's fragrances that were both released in 1976: Yatagan and Halston Z-14. Both have a similar dark, savory mossy accord, and both are tremendously potent and rich fragrances. Comparing the official lists for the two:
cypress, gardenia, green notes, basil, bergamot and lemon
coriander, patchouli, cinnamon, jasmine, vetiver, cedar and geranium
leather, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin and oakmoss
Lavender, Wormwood, Petitgrain, Artemisia
Geranium, Pine Needles, Vetiver, Patchouli
Leather, Castoreum, Styrax
They obviously have quite a bit in common! Halston is slightly sweeter and has a chypre structure compared to Yatagan's more strictly savory demeanor with absolutely no citrus. The beautiful accord present in both is to me vaguely reminiscent of the flavor of pure crystalline MSG, which sadly has absolutely no aroma. Its flavor can be most easily accessed in the "Chicken flavor" variety of Ramen Noodles. It is this accord that gives Z14 its crystalline depth and gives Yatagan its foody shock value. Simply, the base accord in Z14 is present as both itself and as the base of the chypre structure, while in Yatagan it is in full view as the star of the show. They are like comparing two paintings done entirely with real blood: One a picture of a rose; the other a picture of a bloody corpse. They are both blood on paper; one just gives the impression of a rose, while the other stays true to the material.
Wonderfully, they are both completely successful in my opinion and some of the best fragrances ever created for men.
So, which do you favor?
(as a side note, while gathering information about Z14, I discovered that EA no longer carries Z14 anywhere. It could be discontinued, so I recommend trying to grab a vintage Jeff Gordon bottle soon if you want to experience this gem!)
I voted yatagan also. I like its vulgarity.
it has to be Yatagan
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Vintage Z-14 by far.....
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I prefer the vintage Z-14.
Current Top Favorites:
1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
4) Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie
6) Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
My vote goes to the ottoman sabre.
The Dreamer from Versace: what does this scent have that is so alluring and enticing towards the opposite sex ?
Yatagan actually has a solid dose of bergamot, a citrus fruit rind. Yatagan is a masterpiece. Z-14 is excellent and more accessible, but the Yat has to win out. They are both timeless.
But Why did he create just two! Why in the same year? What happened to such a genius?
I'm under the impression he had several hits for men and women around that same time. I think he did Estee Lauder's Private Collection...
I'm even more impressed, if he created one more masterpiece is one of the more productive genius in the nose services sector! What happened with him?? I googled that name and found about a guy who allegedly is in the mob. Who knows...
By the way, Z-14 is great, Yatagan is sublime!
Last edited by Papi Le Bon; 16th September 2012 at 09:15 PM.