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  1. #1

    Default Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    A bit of backstory: I smelled Rive Gauche when it first came out, it's only been 9 years but the timing is important. I was 21, into the whole club/party scene. I bought the most expensive clothes and fragrances I could because I thought they would help me get laid. When I smelled Rive Gauche, I dismissed it instantly as smelling like shaving cream and "dad." Not *my* father per say (he wore Egoiste and Cool Water and not much else) but just a general concept of dad. I didn't think the scent had enough flair or presence and so I forgot about it for a while.

    9 years later. I've settled down now. I wear fragrances that I want to wear because I like them, not because I'm trying to impress anyone. Quit smoking so I have a better nose. My girlfriend begged me to get a bottle of Drakkar Noir because she loved it. I hadn't smell it in years, so I went out and got a small bottle. For 20 bucks, what's the worst that could happen?

    Holy cow, this was fantastic! The juxtaposition of clean and dirty vibes that the scent gave off, brilliant. I haven't smelled this on anyone around here in at least 10 years. I've been wearing it for a month, I'm about to get the full range. Aftershave, shower gel, bigger bottle, etc. Two weeks ago I decided to try Azarro Pour Homme. I know I got the reformulation but it still smells amazing. Deeper to me than Drakkar, more opulent, leathery. A week ago I smelled Rive Gauche again, and I liked it. Alot. It felt comforting to smell and wear it. Like Drakkar would be meant for work, Azarro for going out, and Rive Gauche for the weekend, relaxing. I've never done a 180 on a scent like this, I guess tastes can change over time.

    However, those three are the only fougeres I've smelled. I like what I've run into so far, but where do I go from here? I've heard conflicting opinions on what is a fougere and what isn't, and how there aren't too many modern ones, etc. I'm looking into Grey Flannel and Caron Pour Homme, but what else should I be trying?

    I'm not a fan of niche simply due to cost and I fully admit my nose isn't refined enough to appreciate most niche scents, so I would be wasting my money. I have no problem with blind buys because even if I don't like it, I know one of my friends would so I can pass it on. So what classic or modern fougeres should I put on my list?

    Thanks in advance for any advice!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    For cheapies, try Brut Classic, Dana Canoe, and Pinaud Clubman. These are all pretty good and representative of the fougere category.

    I would also recommend Paco pour Homme and XS, YSL Jazz, Aramis Tuscany, Ralph Lauren Safari, Lauder for Men, Givenchy Xeryus, Cartier Pasha, Van Cleef and Arpels Tsar, Lagerfeld Photo, and Cacharel pour L'homme. There are many fougeres out there, and these are only a few of them. These are well known and most aren't too expensive.

    Also try to at least smell Penhaligon's English Fern or Trumper's Wild Fern to get a better idea of what the original fougere conception may have smelled like.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Montana Parfum d'Homme ("red box"), selling now for under $20 (125 ml). Don't pass this one up !

  4. #4
    Super Member vbs's Avatar
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    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Fougere is simply a perfume that contains a central accord of lavender, tonka, and oakmoss. Any number of things can be combined with this, but as long as the harmony of these three traditional ingredients plays a noticeable role in the fragrance, it's a fougere.

    Penhaligon's Sartorial (niche, but on the affordable side of niche, and imo worth the $$$) is my favorite after Rive Gauche. Modern and yet classic somehow... it's working its way more and more into my rotation.

    For designer I would suggest Kouros (dense animalics, honey, and leather), Mouchoir de Monsieur (as classic and classy as they come), and Jicky (also a classic) if you haven't tried them.
    My top 5: Sea Mist; Minnow; Crab, tiger, and almonds; Semprini; Rancid Polecat N° 2

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Another for Mouchoir de Monsieur

  6. #6

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    As usual, definitions are pretty fuzzy and the category of fougere can be quite broad, essentially everything that has a bitter, nutty, often slightly sweetish, barbershoppy finish overlaid with fresher, herbal notes.

    Paco Rabanne pour homme is another classic, usually cheap fougere. +1 Aramis Tuscany, more herbal than the above. And I fully second your mentioning Caron pour un homme (usually not classified as fougere because the drydown is pure vanillic - but who cares, it's elegant and about perfect). But I'd also add the other, more typically fougere, Caron, Troisieme homme, with a strange, musky-clean barbershoppy drydown.

    cacio

  7. #7

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Pour Un Homme will teach you absolutely nothing about fougeres, but is a fantastic fragrance that is comforting and serene.

    Le Troisieme Homme is under 30 bucks online and is a fantastic and strange floral fougere
    Pinaud Clubman is a great specimen for under 10 bucks, and can usually be found in the shaving area of walgreens/CVS/whatever
    YSL Jazz is on the more complex side; it is sometimes exhausting how many phases that fragrance moves through!
    Mouchoir de Monsieur is great but impossible to find and quite pricey.
    Green Irish Tweed is a strange aquatic fougere
    Insense is one of the most unique fougeres ever
    Tabac Original is another great cheap one
    Salvador Dali Pour Homme is a delightfully terrifying fougere!
    Dunhill Edition is a nice one, too, if you can find it

  8. #8

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    If you should run into them a couple of interesting variations on a theme are:

    Eau de l'Occitan (I think that's what they call it, available at some L'Occitane stores)
    Kiehl's Pour Homme - this comes as a roll on oil, odd but very satisfying.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Houbigant - Fougere Royale

  10. #10

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Wow, some fantastic suggestions already. I'll second Jicky, Kouros, Insensè, Lauder For men (actually a fougere/chypre hybrid) among others but I'll add a couple of my favorites as well:

    Or Black
    Blue Stratos


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Roadster by Cartier ... a fresh, non-toothpasty mint, really a dark, subdued mint, which duets with a fresh, green fougere ... excellent quality and versatility ... very good sillage and longevity

  12. #12

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Quote Originally Posted by noggs View Post
    Also try to at least smell Penhaligon's English Fern or Trumper's Wild Fern to get a better idea of what the original fougere conception may have smelled like.
    To me, it doesn't get much more "barbershop" than English Fern. A blast of sharp, green herbs followed by a rich shaving cream drydown.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Thanks so much for all the advice! I've actually owned a few of the ones mentioned, I must have had tunnel vision when it came to defining a fougere because some of the ones listed as fougeres didn't even register as such with me.

    For instance, Roadster. I normally love Cartier scents, and I liked Roadster when I first had it, but over time I found myself reaching for it less and less until I finally got rid of the bottle. It struck me as technically well put together, but ultimately soulless if that makes any sense. It may have been my skin chemistry or just my perception of it, but it never took on life on my skin. It's hard to articulate but I just developed an aversion to it. The mint smelled exactly like my toothpaste.

    And I've owned Safari in the past, and from what I remember it was spice, tobacco and leather on my skin, not quite what I would call a fougere.

    I think I'll place an order for five samples at a time from Perfumed Court. I'll start with Mouchoir de Monsieur, Lauder for Men, Paco, Tuscany and Jazz. That should keep my nose intrigued for a couple of weeks.

    I've also heard Black Jeans described as a modern fougere. The more I smell it the more it reminds me of a the smell of a guy working in an autoshop mixed with Rive Gauches drydown a couple of hours in. I like it and I've worn it for years, but I never put the connection together in my head.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    Quote Originally Posted by dollars&scents View Post
    Roadster by Cartier ... a fresh, non-toothpasty mint, really a dark, subdued mint, which duets with a fresh, green fougere ... excellent quality and versatility ... very good sillage and longevity
    good one

  15. #15

    Default Re: Please educate me on mainstream/designer fougere's

    I also recommend Roadster, English Fern, and Sartorial.

    Remember price is less of an issue if you go with decants. This way you can sample more fragrances and not have to pay as large of a price all at once on a single fragrance.

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