Parfum is more focused on the leather, deeper and richer. Beautiful.
Thread: Cuir de Russie EDT vs Parfum
Let me begin by stating that I am a huge fan of leathers—I've never met a leather I didn't like—and I either own or have sampled a wide range. Just to give you some idea of where I'm at, some of my absolute favorites are Knize Ten, Cuir de Russie EDT (Chanel), Patchouli 24 (Le Labo), Bandit, etc. Now, I adore Cuir de Russie and appreciate it for everything that it is but often catch myself wishing that the leathery base were a bit more apparent and the scent lasted a bit longer. So I'm finding myself drawn to the parfum concentration and while I know it will solve my longevity problem, I'm wondering how the overall scent compares to the EDT and whether it is worth the money to spring for the parfum. Either way, I'll be ordering a sample soon but I wanted to know what you guys thought. Is the parfum going to give me that extra dose of leather that I so desperately crave or should I accept Cuir de Russie as it is, a beautiful leather wrapped in iris, and look elsewhere for an intense smack of leather?
Parfum is more focused on the leather, deeper and richer. Beautiful.
see cacio's crucially relevant highlight in this thread >>> http://www.basenotes.net/threads/296...Cuir-de-Russie
Thanks for your insight. Based on what I have heard thus far the parfum is markedly darker, richer, and more of a "leather fragrance." I figured more insight couldn't hurt, though. Another related question: are there any leathers that I should check out? I'll list everything I have already tried below.
Knize Ten - Knize
Cuir de Russie EDT - Chanel
Royal English Leather - Creed (not really a leather IMO but bears inclusion)
Bandit - Robert Piguet
1740 Marquis de Sade - Histoire de Parfums
Patchouli 24 - Le Labo
Azurée - Estée Lauder (mixed feelings about the top)
Tuscan Leather - Tom Ford
Lonestar Memories - Tauer
Dzing! - L'Artisan Parfumeur
...and with prominent leather notes (mostly in the base notes)
Dzongkha - L'Artisan Parfumeur
Traversée du Bosphore - L'Artisan Parfumeur
Antaeus - Chanel
N° 19 EDT - Chanel (a bit of a stretch but I get leather in the drydown)
Daim Blond - Serge Lutens
2 Man - Comme des Garçons (a bit in the drydown)
I have been wanting to try Sarrasins but it's a bit difficult to get my hands on in the states. I am sure I missed a few but I'm out right now so this is all off the top of my head.
Cabochard by Grès, a classic leather chypre. The vintage parfum is excellent, rich and complex. The current EdP is not as bad as many people here have complained, but I'd avoid the EdT.
Donna Karan (now known as Donna Karan Signature, in the black bottle with gold label) is a lovely woody-leather. It's a smooth, suede-like leather.
Lancôme's Cuir (the reissued 1997 leather) manages to be both sheer and transparent yet also a bold suede at the same time. Excellent and cheap.
as others have said, CdR parfum is less floral and deeper, more leathery. I like both but own the parfum. However, we're still talking about a supersmooth, supercozy leather, nothing like Knize Ten. In fact, I was a little surprised at first on how low volume the parfum is; it is really a skin scent, something that makes you want to come close and smell. It's not a power leather. Though at this low volume, the parfum lasts a very long time. Strongly recommended, but, once again, don't expect anything strong. Just plush elegance.
For strength, rather:
Rien (Etat libre d'orange): this is naked leather, the bitterest, with animalic hints. Think Bandit without greens and flowers, plus some animalics. Almost disturbing, but to my nose addictive. It lasts days, even on skin. Incidentally, from the same brand, the inappropriately named Tom of Finland, which I love, is not a butch leather, as one would expect, but a luminous lemony saffron, which would succumb even to smooth, sweet Cuir de Russie.
Others worth mentioning:
vintage Jolie Madame: violet leather- it starts as a prim, sweet violet, then a strong, butch leather shows up though the violets. It's almost a shocking feeling, as if a pretty smiling woman, all dressed in laces, at some point produced a whip and started whipping mercilessly, at the same time keeping her composure and her smile.
And, if you ever get the chance, yes to Sarrasins and to Boxeuses. Note however that in these two the leather is just one of the components, and not necessarily the main one. (Boxeuses is candied fruits over some leather, Sarrasins jasmine-peach over some leather).
I should also mention the wonderful candle Vetiver de Java by parfums de Nicolai, a leather just made more bitter by the vetiver. However, it only comes as a candle/parfum d'ambiance. I bought the parfum d'ambiance and tried using it as a skin frag, but it doesn't work; while perfect for its purpose, it's just too rough and simple on skin.
And finally, if you get the chance, smell, but do not wear, Complex by Boadicea. A witches brew of hemlock and similar poisonous herbs that soon proceeds into a tannery. Extremely loud and, I assume, perennial. But simply unwearable - just good for smelling on paper, from far away.
The EDT of Cuir de Russie is largely a floral composition - II enjoy it, but the leather for which this fragrance is famous dwells in the parfum.
For a strong leather, Caron's Tabac Blond extrait is difficult to surpass, let alone equal. Leather, tobacco burning as though on separate braziers. Incredibly dense and complex.
Thanks for the recommendations; many of these I hadn't even heard of, which is great! I am incredibly excited about a few of these based on the descriptions—namely Rien and vintage Jolie Madame. On the subject of Bandit's green notes: that was initially something that put me off a bit. I must have sniffed Bandit about 80 times before finally just 'getting it.' I blame this partly on the fact that I always visited Bandit after spending way too much time sniffing other fragrances so my senses were always exhausted and the green just rubbed me the wrong way (I don't normally have any aversion to strong green notes). Anyway, one day I went to give it another try and just started chuckling involuntarily as soon as the scent registered: It was so right—so perfect. I bought it right on the spot and have loved it ever since. Interestingly, when I finally tried a healthy dose of it on my skin, I found the the green notes took a backseat. Bandit is almost all leather and light florals on me after an initial petrol-like blast in the top.
Well, it looks like I have some samples to procure. Thanks again!
There were several discussions on Tabac Blond parfum here on BN, with differing opinions. Everybody agrees that the current edt/edp is not good. The current parfum smells different than the eds. Some love it (Larimar, where are you?). I bought it last year. The top is fantastic, dark, rich, like a top whiskey. but then I feel that it looses itself a bit, and becomes a touch too light and sweet. I've never smelled vintage, so I cannot compare.
Another vote for the parfum. The leather is stronger and overcomes the aldehydes.
Tabac Blond is also good, but does not have the aldehydes, instead with a pronounced iris.
"...her fragrance all in my keeping; softly she comes in the night." Lyrics, Gordon Lightfoot, "Softly."
Others have addressed your main question.
Since you asked for more leather rec's, how about:
- Cuir Fétiche by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. A slightly sweet leather with some added florals and woods. OK, but a bit too polite for me.
- Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire. A realistic leather, some incense and styrax benzoin. Quite good.
- Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. Spicy (especially in the opening) leather with an animalic base. Love it.
Reviews :: http://www.lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk :: Reviews
Oh yeah! I remember reading about Cuir Ottoman (luckyscent I think?) a bit ago. Has anyone here tried Mona di Orio's Cuir - Les Nombres d’Or? That was another fragrance that I found on luckyscent that looked interesting.
So yes, here I am...
Yes, Cuir de Russie Parfum is it! Cacio has elaborated perfectly what to expect from it and what not. It smells fabulous on fabric, too, although more floral (albeit naughty, because of a prominant ylang-ylang note) than on skin. My skin tends to eat Cuir de Russie Parfum, so I need to double dab on my pulse points (dab, let quickly dry and dab again) and spray on fabric too, in order to get any sillage out of it. I have never cared for the Les Exclusifs EdT.
I second gandhajala's suggestion, although I don't see Cuir Fetiche as that polite, but it has a slightly generic base, which is a pity, but so common these days...
Tabac Blond - first, I do not perceive the original (which was loaded with animalics, very vintage, related to the Lanvin classics of the 1930s) as leathery. It's heavily animalic chypré with tobacco as a big player, too. The current extrait sprayed brings out a rather butch leather (it's been commented on me several times), but the note is mostly perceptible during the first 2 hours. If you spray Tabac Blond on skin, you will realize just how oily it is. This is also why it does not always wear the same way. I have gone through several bottles, but there are days I perceive the leather from top to base and then, sometimes, I feel the big star is the tobacco. The EdP is a nice harsher tobacco (more like a nice cigarette-like smell) with poor longevity on me. It lacks all the unique richness of the extrait, which is what makes Tabac Blond what it is.
My holy grail vintage leather is Lanvin Scandal, which has some lovely reviews here.
Has Cuir Pleine Fleur (Heeley) been mentioned?
Heeley always manages to slip below my radar. I neglected to pay Cardinal any attention when I was on an incense kick, now here I am doing the same with Cuir Pleine Fleur. To be fair, I haven't really noticed anyone getting super excited about Heeley scents, CPF in particular, so I haven't really felt much pressure to try it. Most of what I have read about it indicates that it is a rather soft leather, heavy on the florals, and that the longevity is poor.
CdR by Piver, Cuiron and Elsha all warrant a try! I also love Knize Ten's Golden Edition as well as the original, of course!
I went ahead and ordered a bottle of the parfum the other day. It should be arriving any day now! I'm so excited—this is my first parfum purchase and I'm glad that it is Cuir de Russie. A big thank you to everyone here for your input and suggestions! My 'to test' list is a whole lot bigger because of this thread.
Great purchase! You won't be disappointed. Once again, do not expect a blast, this is a low volume, but very persistent "come-closer" thing.
Also beware that once you start looking into parfum concentrations, there's no coming back - from now on you'll want that! As for me, Bois des Isles parfum is next.
On Chanel Cuir de Russie, the vintage Eau de Toilette (splash or spray) is my favorite of what I've tried. The extremely vintage parfum is the "definitive" Cuir de Russie but has always been too expensive to track down enough to wear, so the EdT suffices nicely.
The non-vintage parfum (.5 oz/15ml) reminds me of the vintage EdT, though it wears closer to the skin and seems to have a stronger iris note, and less musk.
The vintage EdT of Cuir de Russie is FANTASTIC, but after 30 minutes there are only traces (mainly floral) left on my skin. I think my skin 'eats' no other perfume in the way it does Cuir de Russie.
I tried the EDT at Argentina and i loooooooved it.
But it wears quite soft. There are a stronger fragrance in that way? I have certain that there is a thread about that, but i cant find...
Softness is what CdR is about - it is smooth, like a glove. If you mean that it doesn't have enough longevity, the parfum, as discussed above, has plenty, but is still low sillage.
If you want a leather that is still smooth (though not as smooth as CdR), but has a little more oomph and sillage, there's Cuir de Lancome, discontinued but, I think, still available for little online. Or even Tom of Finland by ELdO (which is saffrony). If you want real sillage, you have to go into the butch leathers (Bandit, Azuree, Knize Ten), but that's a completely different type of smell.
Amazingly, my 3 favorite leathers have not been mentioned, so I'll add them as recommendations:
Dior Leather Oud - a brisk, sensual leather, daring and stong, masculine and with a luxurious yet "dirty" feel.
Eau d'Hermès - Roudnitska's 1950s classic, a floral leather/chypre, very spicy and cumin-centered. Beautiful.
Etro Gomma - leather with a distinct tar/gasoline element. Classic masculine, laid-back elegant.
I like it. I didn't at first, though. I came back to it though. I'm actually considering picking a bottle up today.
Also, regarding Cuir de Lancôme, this is a beautiful scent. I was initially a bit put off by the white floral aspect but have since grown to love it. Its smoky leather note is one of the best I have found and the longevity is phenomenal.
Last edited by andregooren; 26th April 2012 at 06:00 PM.