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  1. #1

    Default Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    any chance anyone has already sampled this line ?
    particularly Tangeri, Canyon Dreams & Cuir Fauve.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    No, haven't tried them yet, but I really want to order the sample Coffret.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    which ones are you particularly interested in ?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Yes I had to pull myself back from the brink of ordering the sample coffret too.

    I'd love to hear others thought on this special line.

    I'm just not sure enough of KM's frags to order blind.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    The pricing of these is absurd. Keiko Mecheri jumps on the By Kilian bandwagon.

    And forbidding samples outside of the coffret? What is this, some Clive Christian-esque posturing? Sorry Keiko, you lost me here.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    The pricing of these is absurd. And forbidding samples outside of the coffret? Sorry Keiko, you lost me here.
    didn't realize they were forbidding samples. that's a touch too much ego for me. past experience with the line revealed their offerings just aren't that good regardless of pricing or quality ingredients . . . . marginal at absolute best. too bad, a couple of the bespokes seemed to have potential IF they got the mix right this time.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    didn't realize they were forbidding samples. that's a touch too much ego for me. past experience with the line revealed their offerings just aren't that good regardless of pricing or quality ingredients . . . . marginal at absolute best. too bad, a couple of the bespokes seemed to have potential IF they got the mix right this time.
    I feel the same about the Keiko Mecheri line, but I will sample Tangeri just to get a feel for the bespoke line.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    didn't realize they were forbidding samples. that's a touch too much ego for me. past experience with the line revealed their offerings just aren't that good regardless of pricing or quality ingredients . . . . marginal at absolute best. too bad, a couple of the bespokes seemed to have potential IF they got the mix right this time.
    Forbidding samples? That's a new one. Yes, too much ego. Yes, the price is rather steep.

    For that price, buying the sampler AND forbidding samples, they had better be divine.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Double post.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Simply unbelievable !. Perhaps even outrageous. How and where did Miss Keiko get the gall to demand such prices for her Bespoke offerings?. These 7 fragrances have been out for a few months now with little to no feedback to go along with the hype. Does anybody actually own any of this stuff?. Then the mention of forbidden samples adds to a very suspect marketing ploy all around. Somebody should remind Ms Keiko that she is still a relatively unknown quantity even in the niche perfume world.
    Dare I say the vain efforts to propel herself into the upper echelons of fragrance design might have the complete opposite effect. From now on,I know I will be looking to the future for some great deals as her Bespoke creations find their way to the bargain bins.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I enjoy Bal de Roses from the Bespoke line quite a bit, but I certainly would not buy a full bottle at the price she's asking for. That said, she has every right to set her prices however she pleases, and we have every right to pay those prices or not. She's not wronging me in the least if she decides to charge more than I'm willing to pay.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  12. #12
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    Default

    I have not been too impressed by Keiko Mecheri's regular line . I've tried Soussanne which is much like Hypnotic Poison and I hear it's an upmarket Datura Blanche .
    A kind friend / Basenoter has given me samples of other scents of this Bespoke line which I'll get to trying very soon .
    Anyway I found the quality of Soussanne very good . I'm a little fed up of scents being so highly priced ........Clive Christian type tactics .
    I highly doubt I 'll buy anything from the Bespoke line though .

  13. #13

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I've got to say, I love Datura Blanche, which is priced entirely reasonably IMO. I haven't tried Soussanne, but maybe I don't need to?
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  14. #14

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Tangeri was a big disappointment, although not unexpected.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Thanks to Primrose, I am sitting on some samples. Here we go - LIVE! The Redneck Olfacto-Web-Cam!.......

    Bal de Roses

    It's pleasant, and my wife likes it. The latter is not easy - she's a tough customer, and a real rosettophile. It's a very subtle rose - with subtle sweetness behind it. I would be lying if I didn't admit that the candy has mothball moments, but so does YSL Opium, so not a problem. Spicy and soapy notes aren't enough to impress me in - e.g. - a Rose 31 way, but they make it an interesting fragrance. I think it's kind of a young rose because of the sweet-'n'-soapy stuff, and it has brief musky moments that are odd on paper. On skin it is more lush and balanced - the heavy stuff greets you sooner.

    I think this would make a really nice skin scent. I think it's kind of sexy, but not overly so. Has a definite evening vibe. Somewhere in between the light, innocent rose scents that my wife favors, and the edgy ones that I like. But for the money, I would probably step up to an Amouage rose attar, personally. My wife, of course, would never wear one of those. I will give her this sample and see if it grows on her. This may be at the limit of "edgy" for her.

    Not bad....

    more coming soon....

    PS - drydown: soapy floral wood; same cedar as the others, but retains both floral and soapy notes in a pleasant ratio. Reminds me of a tamer and more balanced version of the Rose Cardin drydown. Probably the best drydown of the first 4 reviewed here, to my nose.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 10th June 2012 at 02:33 PM. Reason: drydown added
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  16. #16
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Ambre Mirabilis

    OK - NOW she's interesting me. I would never in a million years wear this, but damn if it's not just interesting as hell. It's basically some kind of amber chypre. Sharp as a needle, it jabs the senses with the wickedest of chypres, while delivering amber as its venom.

    I want to KNOW the woman who wears this, just so that I can blow people away with the stories.

    My wife loves this, too, but would never wear it. "Really nice, but SO strong!" It seems to behave better on skin, and tones down fast, but I think I'm still somewhat blowing her away with the sheer volume of smell that jumps off skin. And I'm talking one light spray on the arm.

    I've smelled stuff like this before, but it wasn't nearly as smooth. Generally speaking, designers don't do stuff this "out there", and artisan perfumers do it with less attention to the norms of perfumery. This is like normal on steroids.

    As it dies down, it's not doing as much for me, but I'm not sure if that's olfactory fatigue or the scent itself.

    Well, I've absolutely burned out my nose on this one - I may have to actually hide the test paper to recover a normal atmosphere in here. Holy Toledo!

    Honestly, I will not fault ANYBODY for not buying this. But RESPECT to whoever does.

    Have not found a scent for me, personally, to love yet....

    PS - drydown: sweetened wood; same wood note as the others, but not as strong.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 10th June 2012 at 02:27 PM. Reason: drydown added
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    ^^ Uh-oh, I think I'm going to have to try that one! It sounds like something I might like a lot. As I mentioned earlier, I do like Bal de Roses, and your review corresponds pretty closely to my experience of it.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Canyon Dreams

    Oh yeah. This is my keeper. My suspicion is that she made this for somebody who loves the outdoors - the desert - some place that I would love. In any case, I LOVE this style of fresh, dry, green, herbal scent, and this one is one of the better ones in that class. The class broadly includes TDC Charmes et Feuilles, Guerlain Homme, L'Homme Libre, and (to a lesser extent) Neil Morris Red Sky. This particular scent evokes dry air, aromatic plantlife, and - and this is the part I love - the fragrance boutiques of Las Vegas! There is just enough modern girly Hello Kitty toothache in this to take it out of the actual desert and into the shopping mall. I love the balance between the two. The name is so apt it's painful.

    WOO-HOO! Third time is a charm! Smells great on skin, too - even better than on paper. A bit like an aromatic, herbal version of Dior Homme, if that makes sense. Aromatic and candy, instead of iris and candy.

    Nice and complex. Soapy musk - just a touch - little bits of spice, heavy citrus, wood and incense - but all nicely put together so it smells cohesive. Veers away from being too dry as it dries down - thank goodness. Very dynamic - woody and peppery and citrus notes are rotating in and out of the picture. YOWZA!

    I guess I was waiting for another woman's interpretation of the desert/outdoors, and this one seems novel. In the words of Chandler Burr, "Does. Not. Disappoint." Wife likes it too, and thinks it leans masculine. She thinks it projects strongly. I can't tell - my nose is buried in the back of my arm!

    ***** Red's 4-Wheelin' Seal of Backwoods Approval *****

    I know this style of scent is not for everybody, and I know that a lot of tasteful noses will turn up at this one. But there's a small subgroup of the coneheads who dig the dry, aromatic, and peppery side of green, and this one is for them.

    OK - this is my top pick so far. Guys like me who appreciate the recent slew of dry, pepper and woody scents, but were disappointed by linearity or lack of complexity, need to sample this baby.

    FBW at KM prices? Well, if I was flush, no problem. As it is, I'll bide my time. In any case, thank you, Primrose! A tip of the inner dandy hat for setting me up with this sample!!!

    PS - Drydown: dry, strong, woody. It's a fairly conventional dry wood that I've smelled before (Neil Morris Takashimaya, in particular). I definitely prefer the front end on this one.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 10th June 2012 at 02:23 PM. Reason: drydown added
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  19. #19
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    ^^ Uh-oh, I think I'm going to have to try that one! It sounds like something I might like a lot. As I mentioned earlier, I do like Bal de Roses, and your review corresponds pretty closely to my experience of it.
    Glad to hear that my nose isn't totally off the wall tonight! I will caution you that AM is getting much less edgy in the drydown - not sure if that's good or bad. Some people may be even going "Where's the amber?", but that's the point where you'll need to sample yourself. My nose has a significant amber defect - I go almost totally anosmic to it in a matter of hours, and can stay that way for days. So - as they say - YMMV on Ambre Mirabilis.

    Best wishes with sampling this line! After Canyon Dreams, I'm very optimistic. Quite a bit of variation within the three I've tested so far, although I am starting to see the similarities in KM's work now, and that (IMO) she really is stretching out in this new stuff, relative to her earlier stuff that I sniffed in MiN.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Cuir Fauve

    I'll start off by admitting that I'm not really a leather fan. I actually do not like leathers that much. I definitely DO NOT like Knize 10. I prefer the new and somewhat mainstreamy Guerain Voyou over its leathery sibling, Arsène Lupin.

    Cuir Fauve is the kind of leather that I can like, which means "not very". I'm not sure if the correct translation of Cuir Fauve is supposed to be "Wild Leather" or "Tawny Leather" or something else, but "Tame Leather" works for me. In the same way that people say Royal Oud is for people who don't like oud, Cuir Fauve is for people who don't really like leather, IMO.

    It's very smooth and seamless - a lot like the Coach men's fragrance. Everybody expected that one to be a leathery citrus, but it ended up being a citrus with maybe just a passing thought of leather. Well - Cuir Fauve reminds me of what the Coach men's fragrance could have been - meaning significantly leathery. There's not much that sticks out other than citrus and leather, though I do get hints of warmth and resin - maybe even a microscopic touch of powder.

    Cuir Fauve smells nice. It's simple, smooth, and leathery, and never crude or animalic. Again, I would recommend for leather fans to try this one out, and even for non-leather fans who would like to explore more of the genre before giving up.

    As for myself - I think I definitely need to smell the remainder of the KM Bespoke fragrances!

    PS - drydown: leathery wood; the wood note is a dry cedar similar to the others in the series.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 10th June 2012 at 02:25 PM. Reason: drydown added
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  21. #21
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Soussanne

    Total departure from everything else in the Bespoke line that I have sniffed - or even any Keiko Mecheri scents that I can recall. Opens with a dainty, clear floral and citrus, which grows very, very slightly sweeter with time. Strikes me as a sweet apple smell. It brings to mind apple cider, but it's much better than that - much less crude than even the most amazing apple cider or white wine. Perhaps it's apple blossom. Very transparent and sheer. If Jean Claude Ellena were the headmaster of Transparency class, I cannot see how this wouldn't get top marks. It brings to mind the fruity side of Aventus, without the obvious pineapple, the bracing blackcurrant or the snappy birch - take most of Aventus away, and there would be some magical thing left, and that is what Soussanne is.

    It's very cohesive - very pure. Even my wife, who can pick out components from transparent compositions with startling accuracy, can't identify anything here. She thinks there is a tiny bit of spice behind everything, but she can't even say what it is. I think it reminds me of something in my youth when I was on vacation - some place where the air was filled with with the fresh but heady aromas of early summer. The nice part is that it stays in that place for a very, very long time.

    A guy can wear this in a Boss Bottled sort of way, other than the fact that it's so natural, nobody would ever mistake it for anything on the market. But it has that kind of Hermès Un Jardin unisex character that would let anybody pull it off.

    Good grief - I hate sounding like a fanboy, but this is good. OK - maybe I sort of "get" Keiko Mecheri in the same way that I "get" Neil Morris (both are very headstrong indie perfumers, IMO, and I like that), but still. I was wearing it this morning, with a touch of the first Chandler Burr Untitled selection (S01E01) on the fingertips of the other hand (a slight decanting residue), and I got the impression that, while S01E01 was more continuous and smooth, winning on luminosity and radiance, Soussanne wins on subtlety and humility - despite being applied more strongly by an order of magnitude. The fact that it's comparable at all is rather astounding. What's even more striking is the absence of off-notes. Many fragrances have off-notes with more penetration than ANY component to be found in Soussanne. If there is an off-note, it has to border on non-existence.

    And despite the lightness of it, it seems to have reasonable persistence. Good enough for me, at least.

    People who love light and transparent fragrances really need to try this. I think they'll be very pleased.
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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    didn't realize they were forbidding samples. that's a touch too much ego for me. past experience with the line revealed their offerings just aren't that good regardless of pricing or quality ingredients . . . . marginal at absolute best. too bad, a couple of the bespokes seemed to have potential IF they got the mix right this time.
    I agree that $275 for 50 mL is eyebrow-raising, to say the least. Frederick Malle POAL is $225 for 50 mL, and that one isn't exactly using industry leftovers, either.

    The ritzy packaging may be part of the reason, although they aren't sporting Kilian-type boxes (or are they?)

    I think these are very nice fragrances, but absolutely not suitable for blind buys. And there is so much variation in the Bespoke line, I think it would be mad dangerous to extrapolate between them. People need to sample, and..... well.... $125 is pretty steep for 7 samples.

    On the other hand, look at it this way. The 50 mL luxury presentation at $275 a pop really isn't for most of us. It's for rich Californian elite and foreign elite visitors. But the "samples" are still rather classy 10-mL atomizers in a decent presentation, and you get the whole line - 70 mL of juice - for $125. Still kind of steep (TDC samples were 40-50 mL for 30-50 bucks), but not out of the ballpark for perfumista types - AND you get the whole line.

    SO - to my way of thinking - screw the bottles. The real question for us is whether or not to get the sample set. I would say that if 4/7 sound like winners, maybe so. If you're like me, you probably don't wear more than 10 mL per year of anything but your absolute most favored juices, and so you're unlikely to burn through any of these, unless you fall madly in love with one of them.

    Otherwise, if only one or two sound interesting, better to wait for a sniff of the potential winners some other time, or do a split. I'm terribly indebted to Primrose for giving me samples of these - I would never have ordered the sample set blind. Now I know that I could have ordered it, because my wife and I like enough of them, but that would have been a very risky proposition without sniffing. AND WEARING!!!
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Tangeri

    OK - on with the show. In case you haven't noticed by now, I'm doing these without looking to any descriptions of the fragrances anywhere else, including the ad copy or other reviews. So what you're getting is pretty close to my blind sniffs.

    The names are pretty much my sole clue, but they always seem to make sense. So if "Tangeri" has anything to do with tangerine, then it makes sense for a light woody citrus scent with just a smidgeon of spiciness.

    This is another LIGHT one. Very nice, but I have to be honest that I would have liked it to be bolder. For a lot of guys who favor niche with some horsepower, this one is going to be seriously underwhelming.

    However, if you like light, transparent frags, this is nice. It fits in with Soussanne, as an offering for people who like lighter fare, but it's completely different. A very standalone scent in the Bespoke line.

    It feels a bit like TdH at one tenth of the volume, and switch the citrus notes to something less oily than orange and less bitter than grapefruit. Is that tangerine? Not really sure. All's fair in aromachemicals and mixed absolutes. Whatever the citrus is here, there is no bitterness and no oiliness. It is a very clean scent. It feels like it leaves nothing on skin, yet it persists nicely, even after a shower. It reminds me of Bois de Cedrat, not so much in the smell, but in terms of the overall lightness and cleanliness of the scent.

    A woman who smelled like this all over would smell very nice indeed. I could also enjoy this in a shower gel or aftershave. I just have to admit that I love my citrus stronger than this, and I would reach for a lot of other frags first, because this ain't makin' it through my work day. However, I do feel that I can recommend it to people who go big for the Aqua Allegoria line, the Hermès eaux, and that sort of thing. The woody citrus is beautifully balanced. This is highly versatile and easily worn - very unisex. Perfectly suitable for times that call for a very minimal scent that is easily loved. My dentist could wear this and I'd be a happy patient!

    I could also go through this one rather fast, if I used it like similar fragrances, so 50 mL isn't going to cut it, and multiple bottles are out of the question. I guess I'm leaving this one for rich folks who can order a half dozen, and people who really like light stuff worn lightly.

    NEXT......
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Vetiver Velours

    I'll say one thing for this series - truth in advertising! This one's got vetiver, and it's got some soft accord that seriously evokes the texture of velour.

    This is - at least to my nose - another one of those vetiver contrast scents, like Vetiver Tonka, where vetiver is paired with something a bit antithetical, in such a way that real beauty emerges. While I don't think Vetiver Velours is going to dethrone Vetiver Tonka as one of my holiest of holy grails, I have to admit that this one tames vetiver in a very thorough and enjoyable way. Maybe too much - some folks are going to be looking under the corners of tables to find the lost vetiver.

    Here, the vetiver comes across just slightly powdery. Interestingly, neither the vetiver nor the powdery stuff is all that prominent. There are enough of the other notes (floral, fresh, spicy) that it feels like a full-featured fragrance. I can only detect the bare minimum of skank from the vetiver. This will NOT be enough for some people, and particularly for vetiver fiends. This doesn't come anywhere close to Encre Noire in terms of beefy vetiver, and Encre Noire doesn't exactly get respect as a powerhouse vetiver, either.

    On the other hand, this fragrance smells good, in a fairly nondescript way. It's pretty nice as it goes along, and seems to get better as it develops.

    I'm not really sure what to make of this scent. I think that a fresh, powdery, weak vetiver could be just the thing for some people. Interestingly, it bears a certain distinct yet politically correct resemblance to Bleu de Chanel, which I do love. If you took the firehose of mainstream freshness out of Bleu, what is left - largely powder and vetiver, might be something like this. So people who half-way liked Bleu, but hated on the mainstream parts - check this out.

    I think I'm going to recuse myself on this scent. I had a lot of trouble coming to terms with Bleu, and I feel the same sort of ambivalence here. I would need to wear this in a big way to really pass judgment, and I just don't have the juice to blow on such an experiment. At least, not yet.

    So - I recommend that people approach this scent with the knowledge that the vetiver just ain't running the show. Big fans of vetiver are cautioned that they may find it less than thrilling. But still - worth sampling for yourself. Lovers of powdery guy frags do need to consider getting a sniff. This smells good and versatile in that same mold.

    PS - as it dried down, I began to get whiffs that smelled like, of all things, Bulgari Black - a kind of boozy, leathery vanilla. It was nice. Definitely has an interesting development.

    **********

    That's it. Thank you, Primrose, for giving me these samples. I would say in conclusion, that I really feel that Keiko Mecheri has put some good stuff forward in these scents. I think I can honestly say that the Bespoke line are a cut above her previous stuff - more diverse, more individualized, more coherent, and more tweaked. Very good materials, and no off notes. The only thing I didn't like was the similar drydowns on the first 4 scents - I'm just a bit tired of that particular cedar, even though it's a decent one. On the plus side, I found that all of these scents were very beautiful and impressive on the openings, and in most cases well into the heart.

    However, that same diversity means that it's very unlikely you're going to love all of these, or even most of them. You may only love one and like three or four.

    I would not hold this line up against Frederick Malle or some of the other "featured perfumer" lines, but I don't think I would hold ANY single-perfumer line up against a "best of the best" series. The fact that they're priced comparably to Malle is probably irritating to a lot of folks. But no matter how you feel about the pricing, my advice is the same. You should only buy frags that you REALLY love at that price. So the same degree of investigation is warranted for both.

    I encourage people to sample, but warn strongly against blind buys on these, based on these reviews. My descriptions may be good enough to know what to expect, but they're not good enough to fork out $275, without a sniff or a wear, unless you're loaded.

    So. Are they worth $275?

    Let me put it this way. Is ANY scent worth $275? I'll let y'all fight it out over that one.
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 11th June 2012 at 12:42 AM.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Tangeri
    This is another LIGHT one. Very nice, but I have to be honest that I would have liked it to be bolder. For a lot of guys who favor niche with some horsepower, this one is going to be seriously underwhelming.
    Totally agree about the lightness of this one. I often find myself attracted to fragrances with a single interesting accord, and with Tangeri I find that once a lot of the citrus burns off, I'm left with an accord very evocative of snow-covered mountain forests. Completely delightful, but also ridiculously evasive. If it projected or lasted about 20% better, I'd be all over this one.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Of this line, I liked the Tangeri the best.

    Great reviews, Red!

    I was really hoping to like the Cuir Fauve, but it do not sit well with me somehow. I wanted more leather coming through. As Red said, it's leather for people who don't like leather, and that's really not worth it for me. Gimme my leather!

    I do not think the scents are worth $275 for 50 ml.

    Also, you'd think they would get a French language consultant on this fragrance name: Bal de Roses?

    It's Bal DES Roses. (Just like Tchaikovsky's "Valse DES Fleurs," or "Waltz of the Flowers.")
    Last edited by Primrose; 12th June 2012 at 04:59 AM.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Redneck Perfumisto, I enjoyed reading your reviews. I got a compliment on Ambre Mirabilis the other day. My skin tends to absorb fragrances, but this one has good sillage on me. Of all seven, it is my favorite, with Canyon Dreams coming in second.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post

    Also, you'd think they would get a French language consultant on this fragrance name: Bal de Roses?
    Not from the Bespoke line, but they get the French wrong on Datura Blanche. Datura is a masculine noun, so the adjective ought to be masculine as well.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  29. #29

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    Not from the Bespoke line, but they get the French wrong on Datura Blanche. Datura is a masculine noun, so the adjective ought to be masculine as well.
    Well, she's a Japanese lady who lives in California. Can't much blame her for not being a French expert. I can't wait to launch my own perfume line, so I can purposely mis-spell all the French words I can't pronounce...

    Also, to kind of stick up for Keiko's pricing on these - as she was a very nice lady when I met her - the regular line is reasonably priced for niche; she's already launched a new fragrance for her regular line, so it's not like she's exclusively focusing on high-priced new releases. It's probably a nice excuse for her to create with top-notch (i.e. expensive) ingredients and offer that out to her fans. At least it's still an affordable house to get into, as opposed to Killian, Xerjoff, or Amouage, where it's always $200+ for any of their creations, and there's obviously a market for these expensive fragrances out there!

    I don't have a defense for the sample rules, except to say that I didn't pay for mine...

  30. #30

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I'm not sure if this had anything to do with how she named it, but my sense is that for someone who doesn't speak French, Datura Blanche sounds better than Datura Blanc. Heck, it sounds better to me and I do speak French.

    Also, big thanks to Redneck Perfumisto for all these great reviews. I'm definitely a fan of the Keiko Mecheri scents I've tried so far, so I'm really happy to read such detailed descriptions of scents I'm curious about but haven't tried yet.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  31. #31

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    I'm not sure if this had anything to do with how she named it, but my sense is that for someone who doesn't speak French, Datura Blanche sounds better than Datura Blanc. Heck, it sounds better to me and I do speak French.

    Also, big thanks to Redneck Perfumisto for all these great reviews. I'm definitely a fan of the Keiko Mecheri scents I've tried so far, so I'm really happy to read such detailed descriptions of scents I'm curious about but haven't tried yet.
    Yes, Red's in-depth reviews are wonderful.

    Tangeri is surely the most interesting of the line and on my "to buy" list.

    On boxes, by the way, it says "Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri Bespoke." It does not say, "Keiko Mecheri Bespoke Perfumes." Clearly they are trying to be French.
    Last edited by Primrose; 12th June 2012 at 05:10 PM.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    French grammar aside, what's with KM calling the line "bespoke"? There's nothing bespoke about these whatsoever. Am I missing something?

  33. #33

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by andylama View Post
    French grammar aside, what's with KM calling the line "bespoke"? There's nothing bespoke about these whatsoever. Am I missing something?
    It's because she bespoke the names of the fragrances as well as she could and her marketing department just wrote down what she bespoke, without doing further research.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  34. #34

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    On boxes, by the way, it says "Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri Bespoke." It does not say, "Keiko Mecheri Bespoke Perfumes." Clearly they are trying to be French.
    Les Parfums = French
    Keiko Mecheri = Japanese
    Bespoke = British

    I'm not so sure it's clear just what they were going for!

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    It's because she bespoke the names of the fragrances as well as she could and her marketing department just wrote down what she bespoke, without doing further research.
    LOL, Very nice!

  35. #35

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by andylama View Post
    French grammar aside, what's with KM calling the line "bespoke"? There's nothing bespoke about these whatsoever. Am I missing something?
    My thoughts precisely, Andy. I think of a Savile Row suit when I think of the word "bespoke."

    I know Guerlain will make a bespoke scent for a customer, just as the did for the wealthy back in 1828 in the Hotel Meurice shop. It's featured on the Web site:

    "A jewel in its right. Today, Guerlain is returning to customised creations. It is a dream come true: you can have your own perfume, created to reflect your desires and aspirations throughout your life. Its formula will belong to only one person, its owner…

    The perfume will be presented in a 500ml Baccarat bottle with a sublime quatrefoil design. They will also receive three 30ml bottles and twenty 60ml bottles, all with the four-lobe design, containing a total of two litres of Eau de Parfum, equivalent to five years of consumption.

    For any further information, please contact Isabelle Rousseau."

    It does not state the price, but if you have to ask, you can't afford it, as they say.

    Now THAT is truly bespoke.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Bespoke is a word that's misused frequently even in the tailoring world; it's often used to refer to made-to-measure garments or anything customized in any way. Of course the people who misuse it don't do so accidentally. They're playing on the connotation of the word, which suggests something exclusive, and something that's a cut above what you'd find on the mass market. I imagine that's the very, very loose sense of the term that Keiko Mecheri is taking advantage of.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  37. #37

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    How odd. I always understood "bespoke" to be the exact UK English equivalent of the American English word "custom", and always thought of it as a concise and un-nuanced translation.

    The whole idea of it having 'connotations of exclusivity' doesn't work for me on any level. This, along with the ludicrous price point, amounts to monumentally naff/lame marketing on KM's part, almost to the point of being slightly insulting to the intelligence. For those kind of dollars, I expect to see the quality and gravitas of an Amouage, etc.

    Doesn't Le Labo customize some of their labels with the purchaser's name? See, and even they don't presume to call that "bespoke". Sheesh! Someone needs to put a damper on all this stilted language!

  38. #38
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Of this line, I liked the Tangeri the best.

    Great reviews, Red!

    I was really hoping to like the Cuir Fauve, but it do not sit well with me somehow. I wanted more leather coming through. As Red said, it's leather for people who don't like leather, and that's really not worth it for me. Gimme my leather!
    Thanks, Primrose!

    Yes, I was thinking that Cuir Fauve would definitely NOT be your cup of tea! Er, I mean isobutylquinoline!

    Quote Originally Posted by MorganFay View Post
    Redneck Perfumisto, I enjoyed reading your reviews. I got a compliment on Ambre Mirabilis the other day. My skin tends to absorb fragrances, but this one has good sillage on me. Of all seven, it is my favorite, with Canyon Dreams coming in second.
    Thanks! Those two fragrances are surely the ones that grabbed my attention! I'm still having dreams about Canyon Dreams!

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    Also, big thanks to Redneck Perfumisto for all these great reviews. I'm definitely a fan of the Keiko Mecheri scents I've tried so far, so I'm really happy to read such detailed descriptions of scents I'm curious about but haven't tried yet.
    You're welcome! I hoped that I could pass on some of what I was sniffing. Glad it helped!

    Quote Originally Posted by andylama View Post
    French grammar aside, what's with KM calling the line "bespoke"? There's nothing bespoke about these whatsoever. Am I missing something?
    I was wondering the same thing. My suspicion is that she raided her "private client collection" - and in that case, because she had not specifically promised that they would remain "bespoke" longer than some reasonably short period. Just a guess. I've known cases where indie perfumers or industry employers have done this because a bespoke frag turned out to be a potential moneymaker.

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
    It's because she bespoke the names of the fragrances as well as she could and her marketing department just wrote down what she bespoke, without doing further research.
    LOL!
    * * * *

  39. #39

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by andylama View Post
    How odd. I always understood "bespoke" to be the exact UK English equivalent of the American English word "custom", and always thought of it as a concise and un-nuanced translation.
    Yes, bespoke does have a precise definition. But like most words in circulation, it's used more loosely as well. The looser usage bothers me more in the world of tailoring because it's quite misleading. In this context, I guess it doesn't bother me that much. Unless I have an almost impossibly bad memory, I know that I didn't bespeak the fragrance, and so I'm not fooled when I see a bottle on my shelf that says "Bespoke."
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

  40. #40

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Al Gae View Post
    Les Parfums = French
    Keiko Mecheri = Japanese
    Bespoke = British

    I'm not so sure it's clear just what they were going for!

    LOL, Very nice!
    Keiko Mecheri as a name is not exactly Japanese either, since Mecheri is her husband's name and is of Algerian origin.

    Quote Originally Posted by andylama View Post
    How odd. I always understood "bespoke" to be the exact UK English equivalent of the American English word "custom", and always thought of it as a concise and un-nuanced translation.

    The whole idea of it having 'connotations of exclusivity' doesn't work for me on any level. This, along with the ludicrous price point, amounts to monumentally naff/lame marketing on KM's part, almost to the point of being slightly insulting to the intelligence. For those kind of dollars, I expect to see the quality and gravitas of an Amouage, etc.

    Doesn't Le Labo customize some of their labels with the purchaser's name? See, and even they don't presume to call that "bespoke". Sheesh! Someone needs to put a damper on all this stilted language!
    Although 'bespoke' can be considered an equivalent of 'custom' or 'customised', I believe in tailoring, it carries a more specific meaning, versus a term such as 'made to measure' and the more general 'customised'. As the Wikipedia article states: "bespoke" describes a high degree of "customization", and involvement of the end-user.

    I am inclined to go with Redneck Perfumisto's interpretation that the bespoke aspect comes from her using her private client collection of scents.

  41. #41
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Thanks to Primrose, I am sitting on some samples. Here we go - LIVE! The Redneck Olfacto-Web-Cam!.......

    Bal de Roses

    It's pleasant, and my wife likes it. The latter is not easy - she's a tough customer, and a real rosettophile. It's a very subtle rose - with subtle sweetness behind it. I would be lying if I didn't admit that the candy has mothball moments, but so does YSL Opium, so not a problem. Spicy and soapy notes aren't enough to impress me in - e.g. - a Rose 31 way, but they make it an interesting fragrance. I think it's kind of a young rose because of the sweet-'n'-soapy stuff, and it has brief musky moments that are odd on paper. On skin it is more lush and balanced - the heavy stuff greets you sooner.

    I think this would make a really nice skin scent. I think it's kind of sexy, but not overly so. Has a definite evening vibe. Somewhere in between the light, innocent rose scents that my wife favors, and the edgy ones that I like. But for the money, I would probably step up to an Amouage rose attar, personally. My wife, of course, would never wear one of those. I will give her this sample and see if it grows on her. This may be at the limit of "edgy" for her.

    Not bad....

    more coming soon....

    PS - drydown: soapy floral wood; same cedar as the others, but retains both floral and soapy notes in a pleasant ratio. Reminds me of a tamer and more balanced version of the Rose Cardin drydown. Probably the best drydown of the first 4 reviewed here, to my nose.
    Thank you my dear friend for this sample of Bal des Roses !

    Well....swoon !!!!! I think this is a gorgeous rose- oud combination. Lighter than Rose Oud by Kilian but in the same arena with the subtle oud background.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  42. #42
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    Keiko Mecheri as a name is not exactly Japanese either, since Mecheri is her husband's name and is of Algerian origin.
    LOL!

    No wonder when I told my wife (Japanese) about the Keiko Mecheri line, she gave me the same "dubious authenticity" scowl that she gives me when I say "Look! Happy Panda Japanese Steakhouse! Let's check it out!"
    * * * *

  43. #43

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    What is held out as Japanese is sometimes not Japanese. The lines of things Asian get blurred.

    For instance, how many Chinese restaurants offer sushi in their menus?

    My favourite is still the Tangeri.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    Keiko Mecheri as a name is not exactly Japanese either, since Mecheri is her husband's name and is of Algerian origin.
    Thanks for straightening that out. I've met other Keiko's from Japan, but Mecheri (which I always think of as Mi Cherie!) didn't quite seem right.

  45. #45
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    Default

    (( Primrose )) more samples to go ..... So far , I really like the Bespoke line .

    I always liked the name Keiko Mecheri and I too always thought of Ma Cherie .

  46. #46

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I am not a fan of this line, but I saw her at MiN where she explained that the concept was of making bespoke fragrances for people in her head (imaginary, historical, I don't remember).

  47. #47

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Redneck-you da man.I just received a generous decant of this monster. YIKES, I've only been wearing it for a short time and I think that I have burnt the nose hair off my beek. This is VERY strong, but Im hoping it settles down.Also, have a decant of Micallefs' Royal Amber-I believe its a bit milder.I hope so, anyway.
    Re: Avatar-So are they whats known as subwoofers?

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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Canyon Dreams .

    I got tired of testing out Feminite du Bois so I sprayed on Canyon Dreams on my other wrist and hand .The first words out of my mouth were 'Oh My God ! '
    I am already very taken with the Bespoke line but Canyon Dreams is emotional .

    Really wonderful top notes - ,expansive, enveloping, fougere in feel ,almost salty and savory with bergamot . Perhaps orange in there somewhere - it's spicy and almost dirty in the same way as Jicky is . The opening reminds me of Jicky in EDP !
    Anyway as this dries down out pops a shy rose and I convinced there is geranium in there as well all atop this spicy -ish background. I know there is supposed to be oud in this but I can't smell it frankly. If there is oud, it is not the band aid / medicinal Montale oud.
    I found at this point, Canyon Dreams is chypre - like- and I searched in my head, for the perfume Canyon Dreams now reminds of ,at this stage of the development . It is Andy Tauer's Une Rose Chypree which in itself is a masterpiece. This is now, what it's like on my skin. A slightly salty, mildy sweetish rose with some subtle spice. A abit of dusty sandalwood perhaps , in the background . Very unisex.
    It is really a very good scent .

    In total I would say , despite the very very subtle interlaced rose note at the heart, this is
    a truly elegant dry-ish subtle spice scent ,a bit dusty ,a bit savory and I swear there is a tiny touch of vanilla to smooth it all over.

    Post script : I thought of the perfect song to accompany Canyon Dreams. Desert Rose by Sting.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 19th June 2012 at 04:17 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  49. #49
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Chambers View Post
    I am not a fan of this line, but I saw her at MiN where she explained that the concept was of making bespoke fragrances for people in her head (imaginary, historical, I don't remember).
    Thanks, Brian - that explains a lot. It's an interesting idea - for a perfumer to put themselves on the spot and compose a fragrance as something of a command performance - even though the person didn't actually ask for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by trex57 View Post
    Redneck-you da man.I just received a generous decant of this monster. YIKES, I've only been wearing it for a short time and I think that I have burnt the nose hair off my beek. This is VERY strong, but Im hoping it settles down.Also, have a decant of Micallefs' Royal Amber-I believe its a bit milder.I hope so, anyway.
    LOL! Yup. That sounds like the stuff!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    Canyon Dreams .

    I got tired of testing out Feminite du Bois so I sprayed on Canyon Dreams on my other wrist and hand .The first words out of my mouth were 'Oh My God ! '
    I am already very taken with the Bespoke line but Canyon Dreams is emotional .

    Really wonderful top notes - ,expansive, enveloping, fougere in feel ,almost salty and savory with bergamot . Perhaps orange in there somewhere - it's spicy and almost dirty in the same way as Jicky is . The opening reminds me of Jicky in EDP !
    Anyway as this dries down out pops a shy rose and I convinced there is geranium in there as well all atop this spicy -ish background. I know there is supposed to be oud in this but I can't smell it frankly. If there is oud, it is not the band aid / medicinal Montale oud.
    I found at this point, Canyon Dreams is chypre - like- and I searched in my head, for the perfume Canyon Dreams now reminds of ,at this stage of the development . It is Andy Tauer's Une Rose Chypree which in itself is a masterpiece. This is now, what it's like on my skin. A slightly salty, mildy sweetish rose with some subtle spice. A abit of dusty sandalwood perhaps , in the background . Very unisex.
    It is really a very good scent .

    In total I would say , despite the very very subtle interlaced rose note at the heart, this is
    a truly elegant dry-ish subtle spice scent ,a bit dusty ,a bit savory and I swear there is a tiny touch of vanilla to smooth it all over.

    Post script : I thought of the perfect song to accompany Canyon Dreams. Desert Rose by Sting.
    Isn't that great stuff? I totally agree about the emotional reaction. I love the balance between beautiful and dirty - that fresh/earthy contrast between sky and soil that makes nature so beautiful. And I'll bet you're right about geranium, because that is part of the beauty of TdH which I love for similar reasons....

    * * * *

  50. #50
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Red- I am certainly loving in particular ,the unisex scents like Canyon dreams. Some scents are truly inspired and I think perhaps this is one.

    Vetiver Velours
    Notes from Fragrantica are vetiver, woodsy notes ( ? very descriptive ! ) ,spices, musk and agarwood.

    All in all , if you are looking for a good hard ,straight up vetiver- this is not for you . I agree with Redneck that the vetiver is weak here.
    For me this scent begins like canyon Dreams - spicey ,fourgere and aromatic . It has some bite to begin with and then it goes all soft!
    The spice recedes and in comes the sweet - there must be vanilla. So then I am getting a Shalimar -type quality...you know, the citrus versus the vanilla versus labdanum . The vetiver is a small player in this composition .
    Again, little agarwood on me .
    Shalimar ,people, this is what I am getting or perhaps Le Labo Labdanum 18 .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  51. #51
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Nice, Mimi - I think that's a great description. If you took Shalimar and made the bit-player skank more vetiver and less civet, it would be closer to this.
    * * * *

  52. #52

    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I just got a bunch of Keiko Mecheri Bespoke samples today. I ordered what looked most promising based on Redneck Perfumisto's reviews. (I didn't get Canyon Dreams, but after reading Mimi Gardenia's review, I want to try that too.)

    Today I'm wearing Ambre Mirabilis. This is the kind of scent that niche perfumers are meant to produce. It certainly is unusual, opening up very sharp and bitter with a spicy dried fruit sweetness that becomes more prominent as it dries down. It doesn't strike me as a big, lush Oriental at all. I find it dry as a bone, and not nearly as powerful as Redneck finds it. (I did apply pretty lightly, though.) This almost certainly won't become a regular in my rotation; it belongs to that large category of scents that I respect more than I like. Still, I'm very glad I tried it.

    EDIT: I posted before the drydown was complete. The base is very woody, and I find that it gets sweeter at every stage of the development. It's much less weird at the base.
    Last edited by L'Incandescent; 24th June 2012 at 03:14 AM.
    Current Top Five:
    1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
    2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
    4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
    5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford

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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    I agree - Ambre Mirabilis is quintessential niche!

    Yes - power is definitely in the nose of the beholder. I have several hypersensitivities as well as a few intermittent anosmias, and together they can really mess with my perception. I try to keep those in mind when reviewing, e.g., violet scents.
    * * * *

  54. #54
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    Default Re: Keiko Mecheri BESPOKE

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Canyon Dreams

    Oh yeah. This is my keeper. My suspicion is that she made this for somebody who loves the outdoors - the desert - some place that I would love. In any case, I LOVE this style of fresh, dry, green, herbal scent, and this one is one of the better ones in that class. The class broadly includes TDC Charmes et Feuilles, Guerlain Homme, L'Homme Libre, and (to a lesser extent) Neil Morris Red Sky. This particular scent evokes dry air, aromatic plantlife, and - and this is the part I love - the fragrance boutiques of Las Vegas! There is just enough modern girly Hello Kitty toothache in this to take it out of the actual desert and into the shopping mall. I love the balance between the two. The name is so apt it's painful.

    WOO-HOO! Third time is a charm! Smells great on skin, too - even better than on paper. A bit like an aromatic, herbal version of Dior Homme, if that makes sense. Aromatic and candy, instead of iris and candy.

    Nice and complex. Soapy musk - just a touch - little bits of spice, heavy citrus, wood and incense - but all nicely put together so it smells cohesive. Veers away from being too dry as it dries down - thank goodness. Very dynamic - woody and peppery and citrus notes are rotating in and out of the picture. YOWZA!

    I guess I was waiting for another woman's interpretation of the desert/outdoors, and this one seems novel. In the words of Chandler Burr, "Does. Not. Disappoint." Wife likes it too, and thinks it leans masculine. She thinks it projects strongly. I can't tell - my nose is buried in the back of my arm!

    ***** Red's 4-Wheelin' Seal of Backwoods Approval *****
    Red, received my Discovery Coffret today, and after reading your reviews, had to try Canyon Dreams first. You hit the nail on the proverbial head on this one. This scent is fantastic.

    Through my second hour of wearing and what a trip it has been. If the next couple of hours are anything like the first two hours, I will go from a 10ml sample to the whole enchilada and get the 50ml for the collection.

    Can't wait to try the rest over the next week or so.

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