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  1. #1

    Default Chanel No 5 Formula

    Does anyone know it? I wanna make it for my mum birthday!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Haha can't be done. I don't think there's such a thing as "knowing the formula" for a fragrance.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    It's best not to try and duplicate an iconic fragrance like that. Even if you had the formula you would not likely be able to get the same quality ingredients. It would probably cost you more to make it than to buy it.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    just buy it if chanel no.5 is what you want. get the eau de toilette, which stays closest to the original.

    if you want to make chanel no.5 yourself, my question is, how many birthdays can your mom wait? because it will take you some years to get close. and it still won't be the same.

    i've seen some amateur formulas of chanel no.5 around, but most of them made me laugh just looking at them. the real formula is of course a secret. and even if you had it, you would still need a professional perfumer to reformulate, because you don't have access to the same resources that chanel has.

    sorry.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Whilst Iím inclined to agree with my colleagues who say that if you want Chanel 5 then you need to buy it, I donít quite agree that it is impossible to get a formula that is worth using as a starting point if you want to make something similar for your mum.

    So, with that in mind:

    The Perfumerís Apprentice site includes a formula for Chanel 5, which whilst not identical to the production formula is similar and intended for practice and learning. They will of course also sell you all the ingredients, which in turn will prove far more expensive than just buying a bottle of the real thing, so itís only worth doing if you want to play about with it in a spirit of creativity.

    Neroli -- 5
    Linalool -- 30
    Bergamot Terpeneless ( can very nicely substitute Master's Bergamot Blend)-- 20
    aldehyde C 10, 10% -- 20
    aldehyde C 11, 10 percent -- 20
    MNA 10% -- 20
    Ylang Ylang -- 35
    Jasmine absolute (can nicely substitute Jasmine Blend*) -- 50
    Oak Moss 10% (great substitute is Oak Moss Blend*) -- 15
    civic tincture 10% (can substitute Civet Blend*) -- 25
    musk tincture 3% (substitute Animalid*) -- 200
    Orris concrete 10% -- 10 (can substitute Alpha Ionone)
    Storax resin 10% -- 10
    vanilla tincture 10% -- 100
    Rose absolute (can substitute Rose blend* )-- 10
    Methyl Ionone -- 50
    Ionone alpha -- 10
    patchouli 1% -- 50
    Sandalwood (can very nicely substitute Sandalwood Blend*)-- 10
    vetiveryl acetate (could substitute vetiver)-- 10
    coumarin -- 50
    hydroxy citronellal -- 20
    methyl iso eugenol -- 20
    ambrettolide -- 20
    musk ketone -- 40
    ambergris tincture -- 50 (or substitute Cetalox 5%)
    DEP or IPM or DPG - 100

    There are other versions of the formula that have been published over the years, including this one on a Russian website. It will undoubtedly be a knock-off: Iíve not made it myself, but a blogger who has described it as Ďa pale ghost of Chanel 5í. . .

    Chanel 5
    1. Linalool 5.0
    2. Benzylacetate 15.0
    3. Woody Type Aldehyde 5.0
    4. Aldehyde C11 10% 1.0
    5. Aldehyde C12 10% 1.0
    6. Aldehyde C12 MNA 10% 1.0
    7. Ylang-ylang oil 5.0
    8. PhenylEthyl Alcohol 5.0
    9. Oakmoss 10% 1.5
    10. Galbanum oil 6.0
    11. Styrax oil 0.2
    12. Aurantine 0.2
    13. Labdanum resinoid 1.0
    14. Methyl Ionone 3.0
    15. Ionone pure 100% 3.0
    16. Patchouli oil 0.5
    17. coumarin 1.0
    18. hydroxycitronellol 5.0
    19. isoeugenol 1.0
    20. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5.0
    21. Benzylsalicylate 10.0
    22. Musk Ambrette 10.0
    23. Musk Ketone 5.0
    24. Clary sage oil 0.1
    25. Dihydromyrcenol 10.0


    There is rather fuller formula that was published in a German book and purports to be the real thing, but again probably isnít - Iím reluctant to post that here though for copyright reasons - so far as I know it isnít available on the web.

    The differences between the two above gives a good indication of the difficulty of copying a well known perfume, even with the aid of a published formula.
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Or Check out Liu by Guerlain which is supposedly Jacque Guerlain's take on Channel No.5

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hello! Mr. Bartlett why in the first formula is mentioned "DEP or IPM or DPG ". What will they offer to the perfume?
    Also is it true that dep is forbidden or maybe only allowed in tiny amount? I read Le Male perfume had 1% or maybe 2% of that and they had to reformulate it. Thank you!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    In this case they are just solvents being used as fillers in the formula - because it is traditional to make the formula add up to 1000.

    Sometimes some of these, particularly IPM or DPG will be used as fixatives - of the two I think IPM is better - but in this case they are not serving any real purpose except to keep the formula tidy.

    DEP has been prohibited in Japan for many years and there are restrictions in some other countries, but it is not completely banned anywhere else as far as I know. Some people are worried about pthalates though and so it isnít a good idea to use it just as a filler.
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Thank you all !!!!! Now I having a big confussion:
    - DPG, IPM, Ethanol...which one for diluting , which one as fixative, which one for keeping default formulas at 10%.........???

  10. #10

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    You can make your dilutions with ethanol. The working % is up to you. I like to use 10% with 1% for very smelly things.
    What do you actually have?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    I have IPM and DPG. Ethanol is hard to get here in US.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi,
    i am trying to replicate formula posted by Chris Bartlett, but i cannot find Animalid. It is possible to substitute Animalid/Musk tincture with Muscone ( i guess 1%-4% of Muscone in concentrate ).

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    On topic: Chris, if you have time, could you possibly provide a reference for the German book you mentioned which purported to have the actual formula ? I wonder if it is the same book which also had a formula for Chanel's Cuir de Russie ?

    Off topic: I remember Octavian Coifan had an interesting post (no longer available since he pulled most of them from his site) where he compared a No.5 knock-off produced in India with the current official version. According to him, the fake was superior in smell, being closer to the vintage formula (or a vintage formula, at least).

  14. #14

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    One day I searched for formulae and found several versions. Had them in a file which was involved in a computer crash. But the point is just that they are out there and not impossible to find. One of them was the PA formula Chris spoke of, and that wouldn't be a bad place to start. You would want to use real civet and a nitro musk.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    What is "3.Woody Type Aldehyde 5.0"?
    Justin E. Beasley

  16. #16

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi,
    i have just prepared the Perfumer’s Apprentice formula, but i think it is too soapy ( tested at 10% dilution ). There is overkill of C 12 MNA.
    I have found another simplified recipe, which sounds to have better aldehyde concentration.

    Chanel No. 5 accord : Fundamentals of Perfumery - Practice and Creation-, Motoki Nakajima, 1995:
    Aldehyde C-10 10% DEP 30
    Aldehyde C-11 CYL 10% DEP 15
    Aldehyde C-11 LEN 10% DEP 15
    Aldehyde C-12 (L) 10% DEP 30
    Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10% DEP 5
    Bergamot oil Italy BGF 30
    Linalool 40
    Ylang Ylang extra 100
    Rose base (oil type) 100
    Rose base (absolute type) 50
    Jasmin base 30
    Muget base 100
    Eugenol 20
    Iralia 100
    Sandalwood Mysore 20
    Vetiver oil Bourbon 20
    Musk ketone 80
    Coumarin 100
    Vanilin (L) 10
    Civet absolute 50% DPG 10
    D.E.P. 95
    Total 1000

  17. #17

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    You might find the aldehydes soften after aging for a while.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Thanks !
    i will check it after 2/3 months. I will also try short ultrasonic bath.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    I carry the bottle in pocket.. It matured much more quickly, and I don't have to leave any heaters at home unattended

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    You might find the aldehydes soften after aging for a while.
    Would have said this myself...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Milhaus View Post
    Thanks !
    i will check it after 2/3 months. I will also try short ultrasonic bath.
    I've used an ultrasonic bath a few times in experiments. I've found that about 30min can give me the results of a perfume sitting for 2-3 days. It definitely helps some smells soften but others not so much. I would imagine that if you can find an ultrasonic unit that has an infinite timer then it would be easier to experiment, mine only works at 8 minute intervals but it also has a heater. One thing to keep your eye on is that a small bottle or vial will not remain standing in the bath, it will fall over and the ultrasonic vibrations will most likely loosen the cap, which might cause it to leak into the bath. I set small bottles inside of another larger container small enough that it doesn't tip over on it's own and small enough that the perfume vial will just tip over and not fall. The cap will still sometimes be loose when the sonication interval is complete though. Parafin tape or cellophane around the cap would help considerably. I blend perfumes in a 2 dram vial so I use a 50ml glass beaker with a little water inside to stabilize the vial. I'd like to know what you think of the sonication process.
    Justin E. Beasley

  22. #22

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Please could you share power and frequency of your unit ? I have 50w / 40KHz unit with 30min timer. I will replace internal timer with my own infinity timer ( 30min on / 30min off - to cool down the unit ). I am testing it on violet accord.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    42Khz, 160W, 65C heater @ 45min. I have this particular unit:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I run it through four eight minute cycles so it's more like 32 minutes with rest intervals between 8 minute cycles. If I'm working on a project in my room it's no problem to turn around and set it for another cycle but it would definitely be nice to have a longer timer and more than one transducer. Next one I buy will be a laboratory unit.

    Does yours have a mechanical timer or do you do SMD work? I have an SMD rework station but those parts are so tiny I fear destroying it to change the timer. I also don't have any way to discharge static...
    Last edited by JEBeasley; 5th February 2014 at 10:33 PM.
    Justin E. Beasley

  24. #24

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Your unit contain probably a relay ( switched by internal timer ) that can be bypassed by an external switch for continuous operation. Then you will add mechanical timer switch like this http://dx.com/p/aquarium-24-hour-pro...9#.UvMuLWeYY80 to prevent overheating the unit.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Ok, that makes sense, thanks for the tip. So the relay probably switches the unit off when the countdown timer reaches nil, could be simple workaround.
    Justin E. Beasley

  26. #26

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Since this thread has been revived, my 2 cents…

    I've experimented with PA's (Christ's original post) formulation a bit and gave it a twist towards more common ingredients and a musk combination.
    After maturing a couple of months, it has definitely a Chanel 5 scent and as a bonus a long longevity
    Give it a try if you like, all in drops.
    I've added 10 ml of alcohol for a perfume concentration:

    Neroli 1
    Ethyl linalool 3
    Bergamot 2
    Aldehyde C10 10% 2
    Aldehyde C11 10% 2
    Aldehyde C12 NMA 10% 2
    Ylang ylang 4
    Jasmin absolute 25% 2
    Oak moss absolute 30% 1
    Civet 10% 1
    Galaxolide 50% 12
    Tonalide 25% 4
    Musk R1 30% 2
    Celestolide 10% 2
    Violet Leaf absolute 25% 1
    Styrax 20% 1
    Levistamel 2.5% 2
    Vanillin 25% 5
    Rose absolute 25% 1
    Methyl ionone 25% 8
    Alpha ionone 1
    Coumarin 25% 10
    Patchouli 1
    Sandalwood 1
    Vetiver 1
    Hydroxycitronellal 2
    Eugenol 2
    Ambrettolide 2
    Musk ketone 20% 10
    Ambergris tincture 3% 5
    Vertenex 2

    The dilutions are not necessary, it was just the prepared dilutions i had at hand.
    Recalculate if you wish (Like Methyl ionon 25% x 8 = 100% x 2).

    Happy perfuming, and for other formulae visit my blog in my signature ;-)
    Last edited by jsparla; 7th February 2014 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Violet must be Violet LEAF

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  27. #27

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi Jeroen,
    do you mean orris absolute, not violet absolute in your formula ?

  28. #28

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Milhaus View Post
    Hi Jeroen,
    do you mean orris absolute, not violet absolute in your formula ?

    probably means Violet LEAF Absolute
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  29. #29

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    probably means Violet LEAF Absolute
    Hi Paul and Milhaus,

    Exactly! I was to hasty in writing down the formula, it is to be exact Violet Leaf Absolute from Egypt, provided by John Steele (California) and ordered through Perfumers Apprentice.

    Cheerio,

    Jeroen.

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  30. #30

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi Jeroen,
    please 1 drop of Patchouli is correct in your formula ? I have tried it , but it is too much..In original P.A. formula above is only 0.05% of patchouli.
    Also my vetiver oil dominate in your formula when used at ~1% concentration.

    regards
    Milos

  31. #31

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Milhaus View Post
    please 1 drop of Patchouli is correct in your formula ? I have tried it , but it is too much..In original P.A. formula above is only 0.05% of patchouli.
    Also my vetiver oil dominate in your formula when used at ~1% concentration.
    Hi Milhaus,

    good point, there are at least three things we should consider:

    * when using aroma chemicals, the source is less relevant, the fluctuations between batches and sources are probably measurable but for me undetectable. Essential oils on the other hand come in different qualities and different compositions (an essential oil can consist of hundreds of aroma chemicals). Apart from the overall quality, the method used, cold pressed, CO2 extraction et cetera, has a huge influence. Considering my Patchouli and Vetiver essential oils used, i'm not to sure they are of such a great quality. This formula dates back from my "early years" and i did not have a budget to buy the great and rich oils... In other words: if you are using great quality oils, you might gain the same effect by using less.

    * i must admit that in most of my compositions i tend to achieve longevity by using overdoses of base notes.

    * try to evaluate the formula after at least two months of maturing, it will change and soften over time.

    But as always, judge by your nose and adapt to your taste and liking. Especially when using essential oils and absolutes.

    Happy perfuming!

    Jeroen.

    By the way: PA's formula uses 50 drops at 1%; that's 0.5 drop at 100% or 1 drop at 50% which is far more than your calculation of 0.05% Patchouli. 1 drop of bad quality oil could try to compensate for Ĺ drop of good oil ;-)
    Last edited by jsparla; 13th February 2014 at 07:17 AM.

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    PA formula uses 50 parts/drops of patchouli at 1%=0.5 parts/drops at 100% that is true. BUT this formula contain 1000 parts/drops !!! So my calculation 0.05% is correct.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Milhaus View Post
    PA formula uses 50 parts/drops of patchouli at 1%=0.5 parts/drops at 100% that is true. BUT this formula contain 1000 parts/drops !!! So my calculation 0.05% is correct.
    Dear Milhaus, don't just compare drops with drops. From the 1000 drops, already 100 are odorless (DEP), 200 are musk tincture at 3%, 100 drops of vanilla tincture at 10% which both are substituted by much stronger aroma chems in my formulation. Take a look at the total picture. I tweaked the PA formula in many ways. Formulate, wait, smell, decide, adjust, wait, smell, decide, adjust... it's a never ending cycle ;-)
    Last edited by jsparla; 13th February 2014 at 09:27 AM.

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  34. #34

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    hello chris, do you have the name of the german book? kind regards, bernhard

  35. #35

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi Bernhard:
    Die kosmetischen Preparate, 4. Auflage, Die Parfłmerie, grundlagen der Kompositionstechnik
    Autor: G.A. Nowak

  36. #36

    Default Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Thanks a lot Chris!

    Have a good Weekend

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