Thanks for your impressions, good stuff.
I have not had much exposure to the Serge Lutens line and after seeing/reading about the frags I decided enough is enough and I have to try them out. Is Chergui really that amazing? Is Ambre Sultan the Sultan of Ambers? And being a gourmand fan how does Un bois vanille stack up to the rest? I had to know.
I went to the Thomas Mair boutique in Miami to narrow down what I was going to sample. In addition to carrying the beige Lutens line the store also stocked Nassomoto and Diptyque.
So I took my nose to the scents and decided to test Un Bois Vanille, Chergui, Five O’Clock Au Gingembre, and Gris Clair.
Vetiver Original I will try next time and I thought it smelled really fresh. Ambre Sultan I did not even want to spray on me. I did not like it all, it reminded me of Amber Absolut by Tom Ford. Something about the way they smell just doesn't appeal to me at this time. It smelled very old fashioned like my grandparents basement. The amber is VERY strong and a raw amber. I prefer smoother ones or my amber paired with vanilla similar to Amber Oud by Kilian
Un Bois Vanille - Wow! Very strong and excellent projection. Definite sillage trail with this one! It smells like a vanilla that's being cooked. Its very different from all other vanillas that I have (Im a huge SDV fan). That sweet cooked vanilla dominates for 2 hours and then gives way to a little bit of a woodsy tree with some licorice in the background making it no so linear in my book. To me I would wear this when its cold and crispy outside. This scent got a little cloying during the 80 degree days down here and the drydown which took a while to get to was much appreciated. This is a casual fragrance that would be hard for me to get versatility out of. I still prefer other vanillas (SDV) over this.
Five O’Clock Au Gingembre - To me from the initial blast to the drydown it smelled like incense. An woody incense with a little pepper and ginger lingering quietly. I did not pick up on any cocoa in it that some people say they get. The scent is very linear, has good longevity and it doesn't project much more than 1-2 inches off your skin. Sillage is decent during the first 15-20 mins. This smell reminds me of a nice fall day. This is a light transparent fragrance that I can see being worn to work and casual encounters as it is very non offensive.
Chergui - Ahh the much talked about Chergui. Upon the initial blast I got a lot of freshness out this, cool and almost mint like. 2-3 hours later It dries down into smooth tobacco. I do actually get a hay smell out of this. A little late on the amber pops out and its a tolerable amber for me. This scent has good longevity. The sillage is minimal and it doesn't project much at all. This scent gets a lot of hype being a high class scent and I don't get the vibe out of this. I would use it for a date night or going to the office. Now I don't think this is for casual use, but it also doesn't remind me of a black tie event. I think that this is an excellently blended fragrance and is my favorite out of the Lutens line.
Gris Clair - This scent is very faint. It stood out the least from the others I tried. This scent smells like warm clothes out of the dryer. Very unimpressive but very well done. This is a very transparent scent that can be worn all year. When randomly asking people which scent they preferred most people picked this one. Its a smooth lavender and iris. I don't get much other notes in this. Projection, sillage and longevity are all very poor. After 2 hours this is nothing more than a skin scent. If i had this I would be using it for casual settings when I didn't want to smell like I was wearing a fragrance but still wanted to smell good.
I hope you guys got something out of this. Maybe next time I should just do a video
Thanks for your impressions, good stuff.
Awesome thanks for your insights, out of those, ive only tried Chergui and i loved it
Always nice to hear what others think of lauded scents from certain companies.
When you get a chance, try Chene. It should be the hyped frag from this house.
I felt the same way haha. When I first smelled them, to be very honest, I wasn't that impressed. But I honestly chalk it up to me needing to develop my nose more, so we'll see.
I like it whenever 5 o'clock gets mentioned. A favorite from their line for me. And one that I don't seem to tire of like some of their line.
Funny, I have a VERY different take on Gris Clair: It's nuclear-powered (i.e. extrait+ strength) lavender with an underlying tobacco note. Great smell, but cloying as hell if over-applied. I've been toying with the idea of diluting mine 50/50 with perfumer's alcohol, then MAYBE it will be at a more manageable concentration. I'm a little afraid of the stuff.
Chergui is one i went crazy for in 2009 as well.
I am not fond for the ginger or the vanilla scents from Lutens.
Thanks for your reviews LiteEmUpGood
Thanks for the write up.
I get good projection and sillage and great longevity from Gris Clair. Chergui is also no slouch. I suggest you try Fille en Aiguilles if you get a chance. FeA and Gris Clair are my two favorite from the line that I've smelled thus far.
I'm wondering if olfactory fatigue has a part in your evaluation of Gris Clair in particular.
Wild at Heart and Weird on Top
Thanks for the reviews. I was really impressed by most of the Lutens I tried. Very high quality juice.
props for the interesting impressions, to say the least ... do try Gris Clair again ...
Good reviews - personally, I have yet to find a Serge Lutens that I really loved although I thought Ambre Sultan and Gris Clair were quite good.
WANTED (full or partial bottles)
Divine eau Divine (refillable)
Yeah, 5 o clock au gingembre is a gem. Kinda linear but projects really well on my skin. Hope you get to try out more Lutens, esp the older releases.
Nice reviews. After reading them, I am think of going back to try out Un Bois Vanille
Current Top 5:
1. Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver
2. Tom Ford Noir de Noir
3. Dior Homme / Dior Homme Intense
4. Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Havane / Pure Malt
5. Creed Aventus / Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Thank you for your reviews. I've only tried Chergui out of those, but 5 O'Clock is one I've wanted to sample for a bit. I second the recommendation for trying Chene; Cuir Mauresque is also very good.
I also get zero projection and very little lasting power at all from Gris Claire. I love the scent as it comes out of the bottle. I was prepared to buy a bottle based on the initial blast. I will say I only have one those tiny samples LuckyScents sends out free but I did put half the sample on. I guess I'll try it again. I did moisture lightly (unscented) where I put the scent on. Wish I could solve this.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh, and buy the way, Chergui was the same way - no projection, doesn't last for more than 2 hours.
Those who get little potency out of Gris Clair should try the related Fourreau Noir.
Kurt smells like Teen Spirit
Aussie BNrs please see my sale thread HERE
Wanted: 5 original grey Creed EDT caps for my 75ml testers.
1 original Silver Mountain Water cap for my 120ml bottle.
Muscs Koubli Khan is my absolute favorite
I love Gris Clair . I spritzed this on a transit stop at Changi Airport in Singapore ( yes ! They carry Serge Lutens ! ) and it wafted all night long - it was pretty strong on me .
Thanks for letting us know that SL is avIlable in Singapore. I thought I had to go to Hong Kong..(I live in Bangkok).
Funny how perceptions are diiferent. I don't really care for Muscs Koublai Khan or 5 O'clock, but I adore Fille en Aiguilles.
Farang - I also adore Fille en Aiguilles .
La Myrrhe is fantabulous.
Yes, Changi Airport- check out both terminals 2 & 3 for Serge Lutens . The Skytrain will connect you in quick minutes.