Code of Conduct
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  1. #91

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Oh I meant with the Escada..that was sweet!

    You all are mega sniffers! *high five*
    Currently wearing: Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

  2. #92
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Thanks. I must thank cacio, Saripatates, TWolf & warum for all their hints.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  3. #93

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Great job, everyone! I didn't know Escada was a German brand! Can't wait to hear more about C.

  4. #94

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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Just sprayed on arm and paper. The first spritz had something a touch stale that made me think "vintage". But then it immediately went away. As others have pointed out, this is clearly more classical in construction. Enough of sweet pink stuff.

    There's something oddly familiar, but that must be simply because of the classic feel. I don't get much green. The top is a very thick, almost oily note, like oily narcissus-hyacinth, together with some citrus (perhaps orange blossom?). But the oiliness goes away soon and there's something powdery, bitter, and floral. A touch of leather, not big, but dry. Powder, and some rose. Hmm, leathery flowers? We'll see how this develops.

    Meanwhile, parsing the hints. Paris, a already mentioned. Everything can happen? Unclear at this point.

    Time has stopped? Does this refer to the fact that the perfume is old or there's more to it, some reference to name or marketing? We shall see.

    cacio

  5. #95
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    cacio, ah! You notice "the time has stopped", which is preceded by "life goes on", a phrase that just might confirm my guess. We shall see...
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  6. #96

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    I'm reposting my previous first impression per warum's request:

    Now this one I like! While this is probably also marketed towards women, I already have several similar fragrances in my wardrobe marketed towards both genders. Speaking about genders, this one would very probably be considered as an old man's fragrance here in Turkey. I like it.

    Opens bitter green but not as cold or as sharp as chanel 19 and silences, both fragrances that share the family of green floral chypres. This is gentler, a la Balmain. This one has to be Paris. I'm guessing this is quite an old fragrance. Not many people tend to go for this style nowadays, consumer and producer alike.

    The notes I took on paper during testing it are as follows, without revising them:

    bitter green, galbanum, moss, bergamot, aldehydes? some soap, rubbery leather possibly isobutyl quinoline, maybe some patchouli, lily otv, possibly hyacinth, rose. possibly eugenol/carnation. castoreum?

    No mistaking the moss in this one. I really like this type of fragrances, and it's a welcome scent to celebrate the coming spring.

    ---

    It seems we all got the clue for the last one. In fact a spectator had too, and sent ME a guess about the fragrance

  7. #97
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    This is the best part, when the spectators jump in and share their thoughts about scents with the sniffers, I have had it happening with me on a few occasions.

    OK, we are talking about Paris now. Are there any French classic fragrances that C reminds you of? (Say, like Chamade but without ________, or Vent Vert (S.'s Balmain connotation) without ________?) What would you say, if pressed, it smells more like: Chanel or Guerlain?

    Earlier Jujy and Saripatates both mentioned oakmoss -- is C a chypre? (should be bergamot and labdanum with oakmoss in the base). Does C manifest any Oriental tendencies or stays pretty floral with chypre overtones?

    How pronounced is the rose?

    Too many questions?

    LOL

    There are more clues in the intro text -- the part you have never thought to connect with C.

  8. #98

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    I've reapplied C, and will test further.
    I think there is also indole in this. Probably jasmine then. The rose is not very pronounced to me but it's there. There is probably an accompanying citrus note to the bergamot.

    I haven't smelled chamade but it is similar to vent vert. It definitely is a chypre. The labdanum might be noted as amber. I don't think it's overly oriental though. Not sweet, spicy or heavy enough for my perception of an oriental

    Never too many questions.

  9. #99

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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    I woke up with a stuffed nose, so at the moment I cannot really smell much. As I recall, I didn't get much greenness - Chamade definitely has a very green floral opening, and also a different drydown, more sandalwoody (though it must have gone through so many formulation). I have not smelled Vent Vert, but again, I would have imagine a very green and crisp opening, which we don't have here, it's more citrusy-oily. Somehow, En Avion came to mind, it is also dry with some leather, but then I applied my sample and of course it's different, En Avion has a lot more orange blossom and some anice.

    I cannot smell the drydown, so I'm not sure if there are oriental tendency. But I didn't note too much resins, nor vanilla or balsams.

    So there are clues also in the detour on the murder on the orient express. Pipes, knives, handkerchief, grease... Nothing really clicks at this point.

    cacio

  10. #100
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Alright, I woke up to several PMs and all this good discussion on the board. I will respond to these to give you sniffers directions to move further.

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    See, Warum, it is possible to guess the fragrances without discussing their individual constituent parts, one by one. Feathers in your hats and hats off to you, dear sniffers.
    Our sniffers are indeed phenomenal, and yes, you are so right, it is possible. Right now it is not yet time to discuss what did two of us to to enable that, but I think I do want to talk about it later - when the sniff is done and I say my thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Are we in Paris? Are we at a sidewalk café? And, since we are on the Red Line, will the color scheme continue?

    Oh, one more question: is Escada mass market?

    ps - "A" (Loukhoum Parfum du Soir) still zaps me when I walk in my room, and this from a nearly week old cotton ball in a closed Ziploc bag. It is take no prisoners powerful, except for having taken one captive: my attention. I want more of this scary confection!
    Julie, great questions. Yes, Escada we decided to count as mass market. Sometimes the lines between mass market/low end designer are blurred, but we went with the quality of the frag itself and felt we did OK in this classification so yes, it is established that we are now in Paris and the sample C is designer.

    And I have your address and I will be glad to send you more of A.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Just sprayed on arm and paper. The first spritz had something a touch stale that made me think "vintage". But then it immediately went away. As others have pointed out, this is clearly more classical in construction. Enough of sweet pink stuff.

    There's something oddly familiar, but that must be simply because of the classic feel. I don't get much green. The top is a very thick, almost oily note, like oily narcissus-hyacinth, together with some citrus (perhaps orange blossom?). But the oiliness goes away soon and there's something powdery, bitter, and floral. A touch of leather, not big, but dry. Powder, and some rose. Hmm, leathery flowers? We'll see how this develops.

    Meanwhile, parsing the hints. Paris, a already mentioned. Everything can happen? Unclear at this point.

    Time has stopped? Does this refer to the fact that the perfume is old or there's more to it, some reference to name or marketing? We shall see.

    cacio
    Cacio, you are on the right track with "time has stopped" clue, you named several ways this clue can be interpreted one of which was exactly what I thought about when I planted that clue in. Interestingly, even without the clue there (so, based on your own nose) you would've said the word I was pointing to. I am basing it on your review.
    EDIT: Sari has mentioned that one as well.

    I was also very impressed that Sari smelled green -- when he posted the review, TWolfie said that he smelled pretty much a half of the notes from the official description. And in particular, he guessed the half of the green notes as well. I was relieved that I was not the only one who experienced the beginning of C as not green but a little oily, like cacio, and _____________ (I will skip the word from my expression here). But not green. So I was surprised to find out that those green notes are listed among the top notes, whether we all smell them or not.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    So there are clues also in the detour on the murder on the orient express. Pipes, knives, handkerchief, grease... Nothing really clicks at this point.
    Unlike Munich clues, these clues are connected to the story of the murder of the Orient express. I shall say more should the need arise.

  11. #101
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post

    It seems we all got the clue for the last one. In fact a spectator had too, and sent ME a guess about the fragrance
    Oh gracious! May I ask you to share this guess with other sniffers? so this guess is "on the board", so to speak?

  12. #102

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Sure, it was by RingER and here's the full message:

    I'm loving your description of "C" and love that sort of perfume. I think it sounds like Le Temps d'une Fete by Parfums de Nicolai. I'm new to this though, but it is fun to watch and guess.

    The name and the reviews -based on my perception- were very appropriate too. I think I should invite her to the next blind sniff

  13. #103
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    Sure, it was by RingER and here's the full message:

    I'm loving your description of "C" and love that sort of perfume. I think it sounds like Le Temps d'une Fete by Parfums de Nicolai. I'm new to this though, but it is fun to watch and guess.

    The name and the reviews -based on my perception- were very appropriate too. I think I should invite her to the next blind sniff
    Absolutely! Please do! Especially since you host -- and since we need sniffers! Yay! She will be right at home with such nice guesses!

  14. #104

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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Still with a cold, so unable to smell well. Interesting about the green - but then perhaps it's just that I'm coming from a green floral phase. For a couple of days I had been wearing Tiare, a classic green chypre a la Cristalle, and in recent weeks I've variously worn Silences, Metal, Insense, Futur and Bandit, where the green is much stronger and in your face.

    Temps d'une fete would have been a good guess from the description, but the feel is very different. I perceive Temps d'une fete as greener (ok), much heavier, mossier, darker. C has more citrus and that oily feel (whether thick bergamot oil or hyacinth) up top, and then it's floral dry.

    cacio

  15. #105

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    OH! Should I have posted my guess to the group rather than just one sniffer? I wasn't confident enough with my guess to make it public, but now it's out there. I just got back from lunch to see how this played out.

    As for being a sniffer, I would be honored. I am still training my novice nose by sampling tons and reading what other smell to see if I can detect the same. My breadth of data is still so comparitively small, and I don't have the same references that many of you do. I will now read through old blind sniff threads to get a better idea of how it's done.

  16. #106

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Ringer I'd be happy to have you on board for April, if T-boss is ok with that of course.

    Cacio, I've made another guess that I feel good about. If it's a hit, it's all thanks to you

  17. #107
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    I stepped down, I am not a boss any longer, dear S. W. is! LOL Please feel free to put me where I belong if I start opening up my mouth too much and too often, I am human.

    So, we are stumped by the identity of C? Grrrrrrrrreat.

    All of you, guys, think C is quite green, somewhat oily and quite chypre-esque. What if I told you that the oily part comes NOT from the florals only, but from something else? It does, too, judging by the notes.

    Some of you think that C might be vintage -- let me disappoint you, it is NOT that old, although I agree 100 per cent that it is done in the best classical tradition. I have never heard the answer to my teasing question -- Chanel or Guerlain? -- but if I were to answer it myself, I would say one of Amouages. (Here I shut up). But it is the matter of opinion/skin.

    RingER -- I love you already. Mwah on both cheeks.

    I have had two guesses submitted -- both are incorrect -- Guerlain Samsara and Molinard Chypre Orient. At this point I can echo what Warum has pointed out -- C was chosen as a designer fragrance, but very often it is a very thin line between the designer and the niche and the rest, the distribution might or might not be limited, the fragrances might or might not be tweaked, etc (Chanel is the best example -- yes to a designer and yes to a niche).

    There were more questions in #97, I suppose they might get us closer to our final destination on the Red Line of Orient Express. I did not mean to get you all confused and hot and bothered.

    I will be home in about 5 hours, OK?

  18. #108

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    human? I would not believe that for a second wolfie let's put her name on the recipient list for april then.

    by that post I take it it's not cabochard by gres either. damn, I thought I got it for sure this time! I think it actually smells similar to bandit in style but much smoother.

    I'd say it's closer to chanel, no guerlinade or prominent vanilla. Only slight animalic quality. But then it's not as stark as most chanels either. Although the first fragrance ever that popped up in my head when I read "time-stopping" was "la pausa", which I haven't tested yet. Just thought I'd mention, I don't think that's it.

    What smells oily? Now, I may be reading a lot into it but seeing as you mention amouage and your previous question about oriental genre I guess it might be a spice/resin. I'll be checking the thread for more clues, I'm spent :P

  19. #109

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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Indeed, no vanilla or guerlinade, so by default one would say more a Chanel, though I don't get any Chanel iris or aldehydes.

    I love the tantalizingly named La Pausa, but it is a straightforward fresh and clean iris, which C is not.

    So there seems to be hints pointing to one of the exclusive collections of a designer brands, something which came out obviously not too long ago, and perhaps a re-elaboration or an older frag. These continuing strange hints to oriental and Amouage (which now is a sort of Creed, but let's not get there) do indeed point to some resin ingredient. Amouage is known for frankincense, not much of which I perceived yesterday. Oud is often compared to oil, though again none can be perceived here - but we know listed notes are pure fantasy.

    cacio

  20. #110

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Thinking about everything you all are saying about C. Could the oily element be saffron?

  21. #111
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Oh! Oh! Oh! So much good stuff here, let me answer.

  22. #112
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Quote Originally Posted by RingER View Post
    OH! Should I have posted my guess to the group rather than just one sniffer? I wasn't confident enough with my guess to make it public, but now it's out there. I just got back from lunch to see how this played out.

    As for being a sniffer, I would be honored. I am still training my novice nose by sampling tons and reading what other smell to see if I can detect the same. My breadth of data is still so comparitively small, and I don't have the same references that many of you do. I will now read through old blind sniff threads to get a better idea of how it's done.
    RingER, as a spectator the best thing to do is to PM your guess to me and TWolf, that is, to the hosts. Then we can post it on the board for all sniffers to see.
    For instance, dear Haunani is a spectator as well, and she sent a guess concerning Caron Secret Oud -- and that's not it.
    You're on for April, and please PM me if you have any questions. Sometimes it is good to have many references, but when I started out sniffing blind, notes were my friends.


    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    I stepped down, I am not a boss any longer, dear S. W. is! LOL Please feel free to put me where I belong if I start opening up my mouth too much and too often, I am human.
    Mwah, Wolfie. The kind of boss I am is a not too much of a hand-on boss, a collaborator, a person who loves to let others do the thing they want to do. So if you want to be bossy, you always can. You have a lot of knowledge and ideas on how things are to be done, so it would be hard to keep them all in, I am guessing. We love you for who you are.

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    All of you, guys, think C is quite green, somewhat oily and quite chypre-esque. What if I told you that the oily part comes NOT from the florals only, but from something else? It does, too, judging by the notes.
    To be fair to cacio, I'd like to add that that does not mean that a note from "oily combo" he mentioned is not listed among the notes!

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    by that post I take it it's not cabochard by gres either. damn, I thought I got it for sure this time! I think it actually smells similar to bandit in style but much smoother.

    What smells oily? Now, I may be reading a lot into it but seeing as you mention amouage and your previous question about oriental genre I guess it might be a spice/resin. I'll be checking the thread for more clues, I'm spent :P
    Not La Pausa, not Gres Cabochard and not similar to Bandit on me and for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    So there seems to be hints pointing to one of the exclusive collections of a designer brands, something which came out obviously not too long ago, and perhaps a re-elaboration or an older frag. These continuing strange hints to oriental and Amouage (which now is a sort of Creed, but let's not get there) do indeed point to some resin ingredient. Amouage is known for frankincense, not much of which I perceived yesterday. Oud is often compared to oil, though again none can be perceived here - but we know listed notes are pure fantasy
    Cacio, you are masterfully interpreting the clues. A designer brand, yes. Exclusive in some way, yes. "perhaps a re-elaboration or an older frag" -- ooohh, how did you get that? Perhaps not, but do not forget this thought -- there is a very important clue in here if you take this thought and subject it to twists and turns. I don't know if I am qualified to answer TWolf's question about Chanel VS Guerlain, but I would not say Chanel nor would I say Amouage

    You will get some notes if you elaborate on resins.
    I'd like Julie to get more notes to start confirming or disconfirming the notes.

    Please take your time and enjoy yourselves, dear sniffers!

  23. #113

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    ok, concentrate on resins potatohead.

    Frankincense - unlikely
    Galbanum - very likely
    Labdanum - likely. perhaps listed as amber.
    Mastic - while it's green and within the frag profile, it's a rare note. unlikely
    Myrrh - possible, but would it be used in such a chypre? can't smell it anyway.
    Opoponax - unlikely. it has a semi-gourmand balsamic quality that is nonexistant in C. not to my nose.
    Styrax - it is also leathery but while the leather mostly animalic hints, isobutyl quinoline and moss, it is possible and likely.
    Benzoin - it's not that balsamic nor vanillic. unlikely.

  24. #114

    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    How about concentrating on the Murder on the Orient Express connection? I PMed Warum with a couple of guesses, and while they were incorrect, she was encouraging about following that line of thinking. Sharing the conversation here in case anyone else can use the info (I have permission to share):

    H: The sniffers' descriptions also made me think of Guerlain Derby, and Hercule Poirot wore a derby. ???

    W: Nope, not it, but good call -- I think it is really important to think close about those Orient Express clues. Do you know the story?

    H: I do, but it's been a while. I was reading the Wikipedia entry on it. I also thought of Habit Rouge, since there's a red kimono in the story, but no one has suggested that the fragrance is powdery. ???
    There is also something about a time zone issue that changes the time of the dirty deed. ???

    So it's neither Derby or Habit Rouge, and I don't even know if it's a Guerlain. They didn't say it wasn't a Guerlain, though, so it was worth a try!

  25. #115
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    H., many thanks, friend!

    S., working toward notes and the story will propel you to the Orient Express destination with the speed of light! Your list of resins is impressive, and we will need cacio and Ju to comment on them, you have identified many of the notes. Taken together what cacio identified correctly, you will have almost entire top and heart taken care of!

    But there's also a story to think about. I did not mention the red kimono (but adored Habit Rouge connection!), but I did mention the handkerchief and the greasy stain on the passport (the passport was likely to belong to the owner of the red kimono).

  26. #116
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Hey y'all! I'm just stoppin' by to tell you what a fascinating and fun sniff this has been - hostess, togogirl and sniffers are all doing such an incredible and impressive job! And it's lots of fun as a spectator to have a few clues other than the notes ...you really did a great job with the theme, so brava Warum! Bravas and bravos all around!
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  27. #117
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Quote Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post
    Hey y'all! I'm just stoppin' by to tell you what a fascinating and fun sniff this has been - hostess, togogirl and sniffers are all doing such an incredible and impressive job! And it's lots of fun as a spectator to have a few clues other than the notes ...you really did a great job with the theme, so brava Warum! Bravas and bravos all around!
    Oh, Evangeline, thank you so very much, but the credit is shared between me and TWolf who is so much more than togogirl! She had helped me with the theme (I wanted an Agatha Christie theme, but it was nowhere near as good as the joint result of our collaboration). We collaborated very closely on everything! Clues, theme, pictures, ideas, fragrances -- credit is shared!

  28. #118
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    E., I have to put the date down somewhere and start celebrating it annually -- the Blind Bug bit you. You probably know what my question to you is going to sound like, and I admit -- yes, I know the answer, moi.

    Here, we have not heard from Ju yet, but -- and Warum is probably going to kill me for that next -- a handkerchief from Agatha Christie's book comes to play at some point.

    Honestly, I found out about C's existence right here on BN, some 5 years ago, from a BNer out of Boston MA. C is somewhat generic to me -- as it is hard to classify -- in the best sense of the word, with the nod to the older times when people did not care about the family or the group of fragrances, but when they were just good smells. Neither a chypre, nor an oriental, it bears qualities of the both. Besides, it uses quality ingredients, I think. If pressed, I would say between Chanel and Guerlain. The Amouage I was referring to is Dia, believe it or not -- speaking of drydown in particular.

    Saripatates, in the set of notes I have got here I read both labdanum and amber listed.

  29. #119

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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Just checking back. Nose still closed, despite vigorous cleaning, so I still cannot smell well. But from yesterday I agree with the assessment that it is pleasant, good ingredients, but somewhat generic, sort of in the middle of a cloud of floral, rosy chypres and non-sweet semiorientals (where the oriental labels is not because of vanilla or rich ambers, but more because of a all-included feel).

    In any case, back to the clues, I had seen the movie years ago and forgot the details, so a quick browsing seems to indicate that the handkerchief has the letter H for Helena Goldberg, now countess Andrenyi, which explains why she smudged the H from her passport - so as to appear as her name was Elena. I remembered something having to do with Russian and the letter N, but I must be mixing up movies.

    cacio

  30. #120
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    Default Re: March Blind Sniff -- Orient Express: The Red Line

    Hi, everybody. Long day here, teaching then off to ceramics class.

    I agree with Sari's notes, and I agree really not Guerlain; Samsara was truly a wild guess based more on clues than notes.
    So, what keeps this from being a chypre? I did a side by side with vintage Chypre de Coty and feel they are at least cousins. My SotD today was Miss Balmain—it's how I keep ornery high-schoolers at bay—and there is a match on leather notes. Miss B is not a chypre, I think its classified as woody fragrance. I agree on the quinoline, galbanum, and I detect rose at the outset. I'm sniffing right now, about 15 minutes in and get something anisic or herbal, some resin, and some incense. It is not as austere as Chanel_in my most limited experience. Now that oily thing—rosewood?

    As either cacio or sari mentioned, this is up my alley. After a week of unfamiliar, I feel more at home here.

    I don't know the Agath Christie story one bit, sorry to say. I'm a bit swamped and tomorrow I go from work to a ballgame, so be patient if you don't hear from me for before tomorrow night.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000