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  1. #1

    Smile Synthetic musks, anosomia, safety and my perfumer's organ

    Another Musk thread! I was thinking for a while to stick it up under some other musk threads around here but then i decided not to. Oh well – I have some questions to the experienced people of basenotes DIY :-)

    1. I am anosmic to Galaxolid and can barely smell Cosmone.
    And i feel bad with it. My friend can smell Galaxolid and Cosmone with no problem and even describe these smells (She finds Galaxolid more womany and Cosmone more manly). I can barely smell some soapy flowers in Cosmone and when i am training my nose when i get to smell the "no smell" blotter i know it's Galaxolid.
    I have read that being anosmic to some components does not disqualify someone as a perfumer, but how come? According to what my friend said the smell of this Musk is very noticable so should be a very important part of composition.

    2. When buying these aroma chems i was hoping to get synthetic Musk (expected it to smell like a Deer). Does real musk smell flowery too​? (Flowery – referring to what my friend told me and to that faint soapy smell in cosmone). What type of musks should i aquire to get the smell that i want so much (animalic and "Deery")? Will i be able to smell them? :-)

    3. Toxicity of Musks and Concentration
    Polyclic musks like Galaxolid,Tonalide are belived to be an indirect cause of cancer and can have bad impact on health. They also concentrate in bodies and enviroment. Are they still used in modern perfumery? I can't belive it.
    I belive macrocyclic and alicyclic musks don't have such negative potential. What of these two groups could be a good substitute for Galaxolid? What of non-polycyclic musks could make a nice animals musk smell?

    4. I made just a few blends to this moment since i started my DIY adventure. This is my "perfumers arsenal"

    Hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate)-4ml
    Galaxolide 50% (IPM)-4ml
    Methyl Ionone gamma 70-
    Ionone alpha (Ionone Alpha White Coeur) (I)-4ml
    Ionone beta-4ml
    Benzyl Salicylate-4ml
    Benzyl acetate-4ml
    Phenethyl Alcohol (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)
    Coumarin (crystalline powder)-
    Costausol (PFW)-
    Adoxal (G)-
    Aldehyde C-12 MNA
    Cosmone (G)
    + EO's Orange, Ylang, Patchouli, Lemon, Clary Sage, Lavender, Petitgrain, Bergamot, Cedarwood,
    DIY Beeswax absolute, DIY Neroli tincture, Valeriana Officinalis Tincture, DIY Sunflower Resin Tincture, DIY Cumin tincture.

    How could i improve it to go into bodily, animalic, "smelly" types of smell? I have my own types but it would took a few more pages to list them all. I just want to know what You guys think :-) I have not yet smelled inventions like (MKK, Alexander Mcqueens Kingdom and such) but if they are as extreme as people write) this might be the direction i want to develop.
    Last edited by GuerlainJedi; 16th April 2012 at 05:31 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Synthetic musks, anosomia, safety and my perfumer's organ

    How could i improve it to go into bodily, animalic, "smelly" types of smell?
    I can only speak for naturals (it's all I use at this time) but I'd say you should definitely pick up oakmoss, patchouli EO and C02, labdanum EO and absolute, spikenard, valerian C02 extract (C02, specifically!), coffee absolute, ..hmm I'm sure there are others I'm forgetting at the moment. I'll take a look through my collection later and post more.

    Good luck!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Washington, DC

    Default Re: Synthetic musks, anosomia, safety and my perfumer's organ

    I think it's pretty common to be anosmic to certain musks. Everybody has his own anosmic spots in the category, ie everybody is anosmic to different types. Even Luca Turin discusses these issues, and claims that perfumers usually use mixes of musks in perfumes exactly so that everybody smells something.


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