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  1. #1

    Default Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Say you could only own scents done by a specific perfumer - which perfumer would you pick and why? (to make things a bit easier you can include scents the perfumer did in collaboration w/ another for consideration. IE: If you chose Jacques Cavallier as the perfumer, you could still wear M7 even he created it in collaboration w/ Alberto Morillas).

    I've got to think about this one a bit before I answer...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jacques Guerlain

    It took a second to reach that conclusion. My thought process was, "Bernard Chant, Edmond Roudnitska, Jacques Guerlain!"
    My Top Ten:

    1: Guerlain - Habit Rouge
    2: Guerlain - Jicky
    3: Guerlain - Mouchoir de Monsieur
    4: Guerlain - Shalimar
    5: Knize - Knize Ten
    6: Caron - Yatagan
    7: Caron - Pour Un Homme
    8: Jean Desprez - Bal a Versailles
    9: Yves Saint Laurent - M7
    10: Salvador Dali - Dali Pour Homme

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Tough one. Perhaps Jean-Paul Guerlain.

  4. #4
    volley2's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    This is really difficult.....Bertrand Duchaufour

  5. #5

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Why guys, why? What frags in particular are leading you to the choices you're making?

  6. #6
    volley2's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Why guys, why? What frags in particular are leading you to the choices you're making?
    Jubilation XXV
    Timbuktu
    Sequoia
    Avignon
    Al Oudh
    Dzongkha
    Poivre Piquant
    Traversee du Bosphore
    Neela Vermeire Line
    Sartorial
    Oud Shamash

  7. #7

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Serge Lutens out of sheer admiration. All his creations.


    Bertrand Duchaufour for the logical and clinical variety:


    Amouage Jubilation XXV for men (2007)
    Comme des Garcons series 1, Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
    Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Avignon (2002)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Kyoto (2002)
    Eau d’Italie Baume du Doge (2008)
    008)
    Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose (2006)
    Frapin 1697 (2011)
    L’Artisan Al Oudh (2009)
    L’Artisan Dzongkha (2006)
    L’Artisan Mechant Loup (1997)
    L’Artisan Mon Numéro 8 (2011)
    L’Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (2010)
    L’Artisan Patchouli Patch (2002, with Evelyne Boulanger)
    L’Artisan Piment Brulant (2002)
    L’Artisan Poivre Piquant (2002)
    L’Artisan Timbuktu (2004)
    L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore (2010)
    L’Artisan Vanille Absolument (2009, was Havana Vanille)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Bombay Bling (2011)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Mohur (2011)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Trayee (2011)
    Penhaligon’s Amaranthine (2009)
    Penhaligon’s Sartorial (2010)
    for swap/sale:



  8. #8
    volley2's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Love it!!! ^^^

  9. #9

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Probably Duchaufour, but since that's been taken, honorable mention to:

    Jacques Cavallier
    - Bulgari Pour Homme (actually a bunch of great Bulgaris)
    - Fuel for Life
    - L'eau D'Issey (male and female versions)
    - M7 (and flankers)
    - Opium
    - Rive Gauche Pour Homme

    OR

    Jean-Claude Ellena
    - AdP Colonia Assoluta (in tandem with Duchaufour!)
    - Concentre D'Orange Vert
    - Declaration
    - Eau des Merveilles Au Bal des Etoiles (feminine but fantastic)
    - Ambre Narguile
    - In Love Again (also feminine, also fantastic)
    - L'eau D'Hiver
    - Terre D'Hermes
    - Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (just ask Chandler Burr about this one)
    - Voyage D'Hermes

    Jacques Polge
    - Too many to mention

  10. #10

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    I'm not sure if we can consider Roja Dove a house or a perfumer, but I like his tastes and I'd get to have Puredistance M....

    If not Roja, then probably Calice Becker as she is the perfumer for most of the By Kilian line.

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Tough one. Off the top of my head, Cellier. Because of Bandit. Though she did a few others for Piguet, for variety now and then (but I just saw on a post that she did not do the original Visa, which would have been a nice addition to the set).

    cacio

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Serge Lutens out of sheer admiration. All his creations.
    Just a reminder that Serge Lutens has an intense interest in raw materials, but he's not an actual perfumer. It was people like Sheldrake (he made most of them), Roucel (Iris Silver Mist), Bourdon (Feminite du Bois), etc, who actually made the fragrances.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dorje123 View Post
    I'm not sure if we can consider Roja Dove a house or a perfumer.......
    His name is on certain fragrances but he's not a perfumer. Mainly he's a curator.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 04:16 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Easy question for me. Christopher Sheldrake. Most of the Serge Lutens & some of the Chanels.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Just a reminder that Serge Lutens has an intense in raw materials, but he's not an actual perfumer. It was people like Sheldrake (he made most of them), Roucel (Iris Silver Mist), Bourdon (Feminite du Bois), etc, who actually made the fragrances.
    As per my understanding he is the perfumer and Christopher Sheldrake is (was?) the technician.
    for swap/sale:



  15. #15
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    As per my understanding he is the perfumer and Christopher Sheldrake is (was?) the technician.
    That would come as a surprise to Serge Lutens. :-)

    Some have called Lutens and Sheldrake The Dream Team, and of course Lutens helps design them, but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances. To put it another way, there wouldn't be any Serge Lutens or Shiseido fragrances (Nombre Noir, etc) without the perfumers to make them.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    That would come as a surprise to Serge Lutens. :-)

    Some have called Lutens and Sheldrake The Dream Team, but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances. To put it another way, there wouldn't be any Serge Lutens or Shiseido fragrances (Nombre Noir, etc) without the perfumers to make them.
    I was trying to find the article where SL comments about Sheldrake's role but could not find it.

    What is your source for your statement:

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances.
    I'd be very interested to read it.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    after Sheldrake left, Serge Lutens acted like a bitter child and took majority credit and downplayed Sheldrake's role. Sheldrake was the perfumer and Lutens was the creative director (supposedly).

  18. #18

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jean Claude Ellena
    Currently wearing: Sandalwood by Floris

  19. #19
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I was trying to find the article where SL comments about Sheldrake's role but could not find it.

    What is your source for your statement:



    I'd be very interested to read it.

    Hedonist,

    I'm surprised you have to ask. It's common knowledge.

    Like many designers, Serge gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name is on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part, it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines.

    Perhaps these lists will help.
    http://www.nstperfume.com/perfumers-l-to-s/
    http://www.nstperfume.com/perfumers-...her-sheldrake/
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 04:59 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Morillas, bar none. Simply because his style suits my style just fine.
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Certain common knowledge can be easily accepted but others need sources with integrity.

    In reference to nstperfume.com - well those are hardly a reliable source. The author him/her-self says on the website:

    Disclaimer: Please note that accurate information about who created a fragrance is very hard to come by. I make no claims about the accuracy of anything listed here! Many thanks to everyone who has kindly sent in additions or corrections.
    for swap/sale:



  22. #22

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Ernest Beaux - Bois des Iles

  23. #23
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Certain common knowledge can be easily accepted but others need sources with integrity.

    In reference to nstperfume.com - well those are hardly a reliable source. The author him/her-self says on the website:
    Now Smell This is a reliable site. Just something easy for you to have a quick look at.

    You'll figure it out. Serge Lutens is a hair and makeup specialist. Estee Lauder probably had a lot more technical knowledge about making perfumes than Serge does, but she didn't make any of her fragrances.

    Like many designers, he gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines. And it’s no different with Serge. -- Great guy, btw.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 06:04 AM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Now Smell This is a reliable site. Just something easy for you to have a quick look at.
    Yes nstperfume.com is very reliable. I am a fan. But the owner clearly states :


    from nstperfume.com

    Disclaimer: Please note that accurate information about who created a fragrance is very hard to come by. I make no claims about the accuracy of anything listed here! Many thanks to everyone who has kindly sent in additions or corrections.
    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post

    You'll figure it out. Like many designers, Serge gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part, it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines.

    The above is an opinion, a hearsay of sorts. Only until facts supporting it are provided from a reliable source will it shift from opinion to fact.

    Who knows though
    Last edited by hedonist222; 19th April 2012 at 06:04 AM.
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  25. #25
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    -

    I know. And ask anyone who's anyone in the perfume industry and they'll know it as well.

    And with 8,000 posts you' think you would know it. Next I'll be hearing that Frederic Malle is a perfumer. :-)

    Serge Lutens is brilliant. But he's as far from being an actual perfumer as a hawk from the moon.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 07:31 AM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    olivier polge simply because of dior homme

  27. #27

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonoanimoes View Post
    Ernest Beaux
    Agreed
    Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No.5 and the little known Eau de Beaux, which was sadly pulled after a legal battle with l'Occitane over naming rights.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by Bossa Nova View Post
    Morillas, bar none. Simply because his style suits my style just fine.
    This is who I'm leaning towards. I think he's extremely underrated here.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Tough one. Perhaps Jean-Paul Guerlain.
    I second this choice. I would be quite content if I only had Habit Rouge, Vetiver, Derby, Arsene Lupin, Heritage, Coriolan & Eau de Guerlain.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Christopher Sheldrake

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