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  1. #1

    Default Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Say you could only own scents done by a specific perfumer - which perfumer would you pick and why? (to make things a bit easier you can include scents the perfumer did in collaboration w/ another for consideration. IE: If you chose Jacques Cavallier as the perfumer, you could still wear M7 even he created it in collaboration w/ Alberto Morillas).

    I've got to think about this one a bit before I answer...

  2. #2

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jacques Guerlain

    It took a second to reach that conclusion. My thought process was, "Bernard Chant, Edmond Roudnitska, Jacques Guerlain!"
    My Top Ten:

    1: Guerlain - Habit Rouge
    2: Guerlain - Jicky
    3: Guerlain - Mouchoir de Monsieur
    4: Guerlain - Shalimar
    5: Knize - Knize Ten
    6: Caron - Yatagan
    7: Caron - Pour Un Homme
    8: Jean Desprez - Bal a Versailles
    9: Yves Saint Laurent - M7
    10: Salvador Dali - Dali Pour Homme

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Tough one. Perhaps Jean-Paul Guerlain.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    This is really difficult.....Bertrand Duchaufour

  5. #5

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Why guys, why? What frags in particular are leading you to the choices you're making?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Why guys, why? What frags in particular are leading you to the choices you're making?
    Jubilation XXV
    Timbuktu
    Sequoia
    Avignon
    Al Oudh
    Dzongkha
    Poivre Piquant
    Traversee du Bosphore
    Neela Vermeire Line
    Sartorial
    Oud Shamash

  7. #7

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Serge Lutens out of sheer admiration. All his creations.


    Bertrand Duchaufour for the logical and clinical variety:


    Amouage Jubilation XXV for men (2007)
    Comme des Garcons series 1, Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
    Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Avignon (2002)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Kyoto (2002)
    Eau d’Italie Baume du Doge (2008)
    008)
    Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose (2006)
    Frapin 1697 (2011)
    L’Artisan Al Oudh (2009)
    L’Artisan Dzongkha (2006)
    L’Artisan Mechant Loup (1997)
    L’Artisan Mon Numéro 8 (2011)
    L’Artisan Nuit de Tubéreuse (2010)
    L’Artisan Patchouli Patch (2002, with Evelyne Boulanger)
    L’Artisan Piment Brulant (2002)
    L’Artisan Poivre Piquant (2002)
    L’Artisan Timbuktu (2004)
    L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore (2010)
    L’Artisan Vanille Absolument (2009, was Havana Vanille)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Bombay Bling (2011)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Mohur (2011)
    Neela Vermeire Créations Trayee (2011)
    Penhaligon’s Amaranthine (2009)
    Penhaligon’s Sartorial (2010)

    for swap/sale:





  8. #8

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Love it!!! ^^^

  9. #9

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Probably Duchaufour, but since that's been taken, honorable mention to:

    Jacques Cavallier
    - Bulgari Pour Homme (actually a bunch of great Bulgaris)
    - Fuel for Life
    - L'eau D'Issey (male and female versions)
    - M7 (and flankers)
    - Opium
    - Rive Gauche Pour Homme

    OR

    Jean-Claude Ellena
    - AdP Colonia Assoluta (in tandem with Duchaufour!)
    - Concentre D'Orange Vert
    - Declaration
    - Eau des Merveilles Au Bal des Etoiles (feminine but fantastic)
    - Ambre Narguile
    - In Love Again (also feminine, also fantastic)
    - L'eau D'Hiver
    - Terre D'Hermes
    - Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (just ask Chandler Burr about this one)
    - Voyage D'Hermes

    Jacques Polge
    - Too many to mention

  10. #10

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    I'm not sure if we can consider Roja Dove a house or a perfumer, but I like his tastes and I'd get to have Puredistance M....

    If not Roja, then probably Calice Becker as she is the perfumer for most of the By Kilian line.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Tough one. Off the top of my head, Cellier. Because of Bandit. Though she did a few others for Piguet, for variety now and then (but I just saw on a post that she did not do the original Visa, which would have been a nice addition to the set).

    cacio

  12. #12
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Serge Lutens out of sheer admiration. All his creations.
    Just a reminder that Serge Lutens has an intense interest in raw materials, but he's not an actual perfumer. It was people like Sheldrake (he made most of them), Roucel (Iris Silver Mist), Bourdon (Feminite du Bois), etc, who actually made the fragrances.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dorje123 View Post
    I'm not sure if we can consider Roja Dove a house or a perfumer.......
    His name is on certain fragrances but he's not a perfumer. Mainly he's a curator.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 05:16 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Easy question for me. Christopher Sheldrake. Most of the Serge Lutens & some of the Chanels.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Just a reminder that Serge Lutens has an intense in raw materials, but he's not an actual perfumer. It was people like Sheldrake (he made most of them), Roucel (Iris Silver Mist), Bourdon (Feminite du Bois), etc, who actually made the fragrances.
    As per my understanding he is the perfumer and Christopher Sheldrake is (was?) the technician.

    for swap/sale:





  15. #15
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    As per my understanding he is the perfumer and Christopher Sheldrake is (was?) the technician.
    That would come as a surprise to Serge Lutens. :-)

    Some have called Lutens and Sheldrake The Dream Team, and of course Lutens helps design them, but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances. To put it another way, there wouldn't be any Serge Lutens or Shiseido fragrances (Nombre Noir, etc) without the perfumers to make them.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    That would come as a surprise to Serge Lutens. :-)

    Some have called Lutens and Sheldrake The Dream Team, but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances. To put it another way, there wouldn't be any Serge Lutens or Shiseido fragrances (Nombre Noir, etc) without the perfumers to make them.
    I was trying to find the article where SL comments about Sheldrake's role but could not find it.

    What is your source for your statement:

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    but Sheldrake is the one who ultimately crafts the fragrances.
    I'd be very interested to read it.

    for swap/sale:





  17. #17

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    after Sheldrake left, Serge Lutens acted like a bitter child and took majority credit and downplayed Sheldrake's role. Sheldrake was the perfumer and Lutens was the creative director (supposedly).

  18. #18

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jean Claude Ellena

  19. #19
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I was trying to find the article where SL comments about Sheldrake's role but could not find it.

    What is your source for your statement:



    I'd be very interested to read it.

    Hedonist,

    I'm surprised you have to ask. It's common knowledge.

    Like many designers, Serge gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name is on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part, it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines.

    Perhaps these lists will help.
    http://www.nstperfume.com/perfumers-l-to-s/
    http://www.nstperfume.com/perfumers-...her-sheldrake/
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 05:59 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Morillas, bar none. Simply because his style suits my style just fine.
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Certain common knowledge can be easily accepted but others need sources with integrity.

    In reference to nstperfume.com - well those are hardly a reliable source. The author him/her-self says on the website:

    Disclaimer: Please note that accurate information about who created a fragrance is very hard to come by. I make no claims about the accuracy of anything listed here! Many thanks to everyone who has kindly sent in additions or corrections.

    for swap/sale:





  22. #22

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Ernest Beaux - Bois des Iles

  23. #23
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Certain common knowledge can be easily accepted but others need sources with integrity.

    In reference to nstperfume.com - well those are hardly a reliable source. The author him/her-self says on the website:
    Now Smell This is a reliable site. Just something easy for you to have a quick look at.

    You'll figure it out. Serge Lutens is a hair and makeup specialist. Estee Lauder probably had a lot more technical knowledge about making perfumes than Serge does, but she didn't make any of her fragrances.

    Like many designers, he gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines. And it’s no different with Serge. -- Great guy, btw.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 07:04 AM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Now Smell This is a reliable site. Just something easy for you to have a quick look at.
    Yes nstperfume.com is very reliable. I am a fan. But the owner clearly states :


    from nstperfume.com

    Disclaimer: Please note that accurate information about who created a fragrance is very hard to come by. I make no claims about the accuracy of anything listed here! Many thanks to everyone who has kindly sent in additions or corrections.
    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post

    You'll figure it out. Like many designers, Serge gives the perfumers concepts, helps to guide the scents to finalization, and has his name on the fragrances. But he didn't make any of them. He doesn't know how. He does not have that kind of training or understanding, which is extremely difficult involving organic chemistry and all kinds of other things. For the most part, it's the designer's job to keep the perfumers hidden like ghosts, far away from the marketing machines.

    The above is an opinion, a hearsay of sorts. Only until facts supporting it are provided from a reliable source will it shift from opinion to fact.

    Who knows though
    Last edited by hedonist222; 19th April 2012 at 07:04 AM.

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  25. #25
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    -

    I know. And ask anyone who's anyone in the perfume industry and they'll know it as well.

    And with 8,000 posts you' think you would know it. Next I'll be hearing that Frederic Malle is a perfumer. :-)

    Serge Lutens is brilliant. But he's as far from being an actual perfumer as a hawk from the moon.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th April 2012 at 08:31 AM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    olivier polge simply because of dior homme

  27. #27

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonoanimoes View Post
    Ernest Beaux
    Agreed
    Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No.5 and the little known Eau de Beaux, which was sadly pulled after a legal battle with l'Occitane over naming rights.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by Bossa Nova View Post
    Morillas, bar none. Simply because his style suits my style just fine.
    This is who I'm leaning towards. I think he's extremely underrated here.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Tough one. Perhaps Jean-Paul Guerlain.
    I second this choice. I would be quite content if I only had Habit Rouge, Vetiver, Derby, Arsene Lupin, Heritage, Coriolan & Eau de Guerlain.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Christopher Sheldrake

  31. #31

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Bertrand Duchaufour

  32. #32

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Maurice Roucel has done some good stuff:

    L'Instant de Guerlain
    Musc Ravageur
    Riverside Drive
    New Haarlem
    Rochas Man
    Iris Silver Mist
    Insolence
    24 Fabourg

  33. #33

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Very tough, I think it would come down to (based on my wardrobe):

    Francis Kurkdjian
    Mourice Roucel
    Christopher Sheldrake

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    After seeing the list of Christopher Sheldrake creations, i could live with those. Then again that list could be completely made up....
    Want to trade - Tom Ford Extreme for Windsor, Amber Absolute, Aventus x02....
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/394...82#post3308582

    CHEAP CREED SPLITS
    Millesime Imperial, Original Santal, Green Irish Tweed
    Himalaya, Aventus, Tabarome
    plus Amouage Honour & Fate Man

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/393...92#post3296892

  35. #35

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Mark Buxton. He definitely deserves a mention.
    If nothing else this thread is a great database for some perfumeurs lesser known creations!

  36. #36
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Mona di Orio for her Les Nombres d'Or collection. Her creations in the collection just mesh perfectly with my taste and they cover most of the bases.

    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver
    Les Nombres d'Or Vanille
    Les Nombres d'Or Ambre
    Les Nombres d'Or Oud
    Les Nombres d'Or Musc


    Dominique Ropion would be my second choice for most of his Malle line creations...
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie

  37. #37

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    I'll have to agree with my friend Hedonist and say Mr. Lutens, Mr. Malle and Mr. Artisan

  38. #38

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Good to see you posting scent

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  39. #39

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Good to see you posting scent
    Don't jinx it bro...don't jinx it : /

  40. #40

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Without question, Ernest Daltroff.

    Caron Pour Un Homme (1934)

    En Avion (1929)

    N'Aimez Que Moi (1917)

    Tabac Blond (1919)

    If he really did create these himself - I know not - he was a genius. The only thing I would regret would be the absence of a good eau de cologne.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jean-Claude Ellena...

    Just so many of my favorites, or at least consistent in how much I like his creations.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Roudnitska


    Moustache
    Eau Sauvage
    Diorella
    Eau d'Hermès

  43. #43

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only



    Sienne, Jubilation, Timbuktu, Dzonghka, Kyoto, Cipresso Toscana.

    The only other possibility would be Buxton: Pasha, Scent 79, 2 Man, Ouazarzate.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  44. #44

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    haocgaadc.jpg

    Sienne, Jubilation, Timbuktu, Dzonghka, Kyoto, Cipresso Toscana.

    The only other possibility would be Buxton: Pasha, Scent 79, 2 Man, Ouazarzate.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Tauer for:
    Orange Star
    Incense Rose
    LADDM
    Lonestar Memories
    Une Rose Chypree

    He's incredibly talented.
    But I would also have to say:

    Brent Leonesio for:
    Untitled No.8
    Totem Eclipse
    Mountain High
    Dead of Winter
    and for providing a huge, playful variety, I'm far too immature to have serious fragrances my whole life

  46. #46

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Calice Becker or Maurice Rousel

  47. #47

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    too tough to answer...but I'll probalby be just fine with Knize Ten so I'd go for Vincent Roubert and Francois Coty.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  48. #48

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    That's hard. I'd have to say Christopher Sheldrake or Germaine Cellier. Possibly Mona di Orio. Yes, Mona di Orio.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Francis Kurkdjian

    &

    Olivier Polge
    Workers of the world unite; you have nothing to lose but your chains. - Karl Marx

  50. #50

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Francis Kurkdjian

    &

    Olivier Polge
    Workers of the world unite; you have nothing to lose but your chains. - Karl Marx

  51. #51
    Basenotes Junkie tiberije's Avatar
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    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    I have already picked Creed and mr.Olivier to be precise. I only have Chergui, Riverside Drive and 2 tom fords that are not Creeds.
    Right now I think that I have all the fragrances that I want.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Sheldrake/Lutens then Olivier Creed

  53. #53

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jacques Guerlain gives me two of my top 5 fragrances: Shalimar and Mouchoir de Monsieur. In addition, I have L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Apres L'Ondee, Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, Sous le Vent, Vega and, of course, Mitsouko. I could totally get by with just that - An extremely balanced and varied selection from all the major genres, including some of the very best from each.

    Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit - Oriental
    Mitsouko, Sous le Vent, Djedi - Chypre
    Mouchoir de Monsieur - Aromatic Fougere
    Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat - Cologne
    Vega, Apres L'Ondee - Floral
    My Top Ten:

    1: Guerlain - Habit Rouge
    2: Guerlain - Jicky
    3: Guerlain - Mouchoir de Monsieur
    4: Guerlain - Shalimar
    5: Knize - Knize Ten
    6: Caron - Yatagan
    7: Caron - Pour Un Homme
    8: Jean Desprez - Bal a Versailles
    9: Yves Saint Laurent - M7
    10: Salvador Dali - Dali Pour Homme

  54. #54

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Jacques Polge
    for Coromandel / Sycomore / 31 Rue Cambon / Egoiste / Antaeus / Coco
    to name a few of the Chanels I love.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Hmmm either Jean-Paul Millet Lage or Christopher Sheldrake because their fragrances generally avoid being linear, avoid being simple, avoid aligning to current fads and have beautiful smelling drydowns. They're also not afraid to create interesting and challenging yet wearable accords.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Impossible for me. If I had to choose only one, it would be Bertrand Duchaufour for his lovely and inspiring niche work, but a large part of my collection is also comprised of Annick Menardo so-called "mainstream" (non-niche) work. Her "touch" is amazing, and I am naturally drawn to it. Totally different artists, but I love both, and would be sad to exclude either of them from my collection.

  57. #57

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Hard to choose but maybe the Polge family, specially the former Jacques. (older chanel line and the exclusive line)

  58. #58

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Either Michel Almairac (Gucci Rush, Bottega Veneta, Bond Fire Island) or Annick Menardo (Bulgari Black, LL Patchouli 24, Dior Hypnotic Poison...too many to mention).

  59. #59

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Edmond Roudnitska for his timeless works of art:
    Le Parfum de Thérèse
    Moustache
    Dior Eau Fraîche
    Eau Sauvage
    Diorisimo
    Diorella
    Eau d'Hermès
    Ocean Rain for Men
    Rochas Femme(original)

  60. #60

    Default Re: Challenge: Whole wardrobe from 1 perfumer only

    Daniela Roche-Andrier and all her creations for Prada and a few more

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