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  1. #1

    Post IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    At the European Parliament Expo on Trade Secrets, earlier this year, IFRA decided to publish a full fragrance formula ‘for the first time’ and copies of the formula and the fragrance made with it were given to politicians as part of a lobbying campaign to raise awareness of the importance of trade secrets to the fragrance industry.

    That formula, along with an explanation of what is was all about now appears in an article in this month’s Perfumer and Flavorist Magazine and is available to anyone. I commend it to everyone interested in the way fragrances are really made, the way the fragrance industry works or in making their own fragrances.

    Free Article Download: IFRA Reveals a Fragrance Formula ... in Defense of Trade Secrets

    Also on my own blog
    Last edited by Chris Bartlett; 28th April 2012 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Added PWP Blog link
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  2. #2

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    Interesting, though I don't get the meaning of this action because I think that whith or without protection if a brand does want to keep the secret it can do it easily, since I believe even the most skilled perfumer with a very good GC-MS wouldn't be able to actually replicate a perfume in a precise way.
    Sebastiano - Organic Chemist

  3. #3

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    IFRA argue thatís not the case - and with some justification - Iím inclined to agree that while precisely replicating a perfume is probably too difficult in most cases, replicating one sufficiently well to fool the average fragrance consumer probably isnít. They are trying to make the case that fragrance companies should be able to pursue fakers through the courts as vigorously as, for example, Armani can pursue fakers of Armani suits or jeans.

    They were also trying to make the case that faking tends to Ďdumb downí the whole industry and dampen creativity, which I suspect is true. Allowing perfumers to be creative is expensive: if someone who didnít make that investment can copy your work with impunity simply by investing in a few hundred pounds worth of GG-MS or GC-sniffing then it must be a disincentive.

    Iíd argue this is the sort of thing IFRA should spend itís time doing, rather than looking for new things to restrict, prohibit or specify!
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  4. #4
    Ursula's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    I don't want to sound ignorant but I have a few stupid questions:

    1. Is there now any trademark protection for perfume makers for a fragrance ?

    2. If not, then the revealed formula is the basis to protect something that is clearly defined.

    3. If yes, trademark protection already exists, then how can the manufacturer prove that the product is copied ? By breaking apart the copy with that GC device ?

    4. What is the future for us, the consumer, when - along with all ingredients showing - harmful ingredients are now clearly defined for the consumer to be leery of ?

    I find your topic fascinating and am saving the article for reference. This is "big". I am surprised not to have heard it before in other news, or maybe it passed me by.
    There are no answers, only choices. (Stanislav Lem)

  5. #5

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    ursula,

    there is no copyright right now. because that implies that the formula needs to be published.
    and (possibly) harmful ingredients are already listed on the box. pick any perfume randomly and look for the 'ingredients' listing. it's all there. don't worry too much about that, though. the restriction in amount renders them safe for use. the majority are potential allergens anyway. and, like peanuts, they are perfectly harmless to most people.
    Last edited by gido; 1st May 2012 at 01:22 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    I might be a minority here but I'm all for transparency towards consumers regarding ALL perfume ingredients.

    A fragrance company should not need to give the whole formula away with % mentioned but ALL used ingredients should be mentioned just like any other cosmetic ingredients are mentioned within INCI (ingredients list). It's the whole 'secrecy' that makes consumers wary of perfume and it mostly fuels fear-mongering scare tactics.

    Here are a few articles of a colleague that has published very eloquently on the matter:
    http://www.stephen-herman.com/PF_SH.pdf
    http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstr...132990058.html

  7. #7
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    "A few years ago a committee was set up in France to look into the problem of plagiarism in fragrance. A jury composed of professionals and perfume lovers was to decide whether a given fragrance was a blatant copy of an existing one, and act as an expert witness in several juicy lawsuits. The idea foundered when it became clear that such a committee would probably reject some of the greatest fragrances ever made: _______ was an unsweetened _______, _______ the dusky sister of _______, _______ an ornate variation (the first of many) on _______. In each case, however, the copy was arguably better than the original. Perfumery is still a classical art in which, as Charles Colton once put it, imitation is the sincerest flattery. The fact is that perfumes, like species, usually evolve in incremental steps. When closely related, they can even interbreed to produce rare and splendid hybrids........" Luca Turin

  8. #8

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    "A few years ago a committee was set up in France to look into the problem of plagiarism in fragrance. A jury composed of professionals and perfume lovers was to decide whether a given fragrance was a blatant copy of an existing one, and act as an expert witness in several juicy lawsuits. The idea foundered when it became clear that such a committee would probably reject some of the greatest fragrances ever made: _______ was an unsweetened _______, _______ the dusky sister of _______, _______ an ornate variation (the first of many) on _______. In each case, however, the copy was arguably better than the original. Perfumery is still a classical art in which, as Charles Colton once put it, imitation is the sincerest flattery. The fact is that perfumes, like species, usually evolve in incremental steps. When closely related, they can even interbreed to produce rare and splendid hybrids........" Luca Turin
    Good quote and also an accurate assessment of the state of things. It is however another thing to attempt to pass off your imitation as the real thing, and even in perfumery where you have no protection from copyright and cannot patent your blend (though individual novel molecules can be patented), you are still entitled to protection of your Trade Marks.

    In other words I can make a pale imitation of Chanel Number 5 if I like (or even a massive improvement on Chanel Number 5 if I was clever enough) as long as I sell it as Pell Wall Perfumes 5 (or something) but what I canít do is put it in a bottle with the Chanel logo on it and pretend Iím selling Chanel: if I do that they can sue me.

    Trade Marks can be registered or not but are protected either way, though to differing degrees. That seems to me to be fair enough. What IFRA was seeking was a levelling-up and improvement of the trade mark protections across the EU.
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: IFRA Publish a fragrance formula

    Quote Originally Posted by Ursula View Post
    I find your topic fascinating and am saving the article for reference. This is "big". I am surprised not to have heard it before in other news, or maybe it passed me by.
    Yes I was surprised this wasnít picked up by journalists more too. Youíd think all those perfumery bloggers out there would have had a go at this one, but not so far at any rate.
    ďA person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person
    ― Dave Barry

    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

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