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  1. #1

    Default What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    You are to come up with your own niche house. The minimum number of fragrances is 5, the maximum is 10. You have every perfumer at your disposal (exclusivity contracts are suspended). Any perfumer/s! Everyone wants to be involved with your project. You can choose one perfumer to carry out your vision, or several perfumers.

    House: Eleventh of the Eleventh

    Gimmick: 11 fragrances (my rules don’t apply to me) will be released simultaneously by 11 'master perfumers' (we’re slightly borrowing from Malle). Each will be commissioned to make a specific fragrance.

    Fragrances and Perfumers:


    ‘Alexander ‘ - Pierre Bourdon

    I’ve randomly decided to make a list of some of what I grow in my garden. The list features: strawberry, tomato (leaf), chili, casa lily, cucumber, basil. Bourdon is to provide harmony with a base structure of cypress, amber, patchouli, and vetiver. Hopefully, he’ll have another king to add alongside Kouros.


    ‘Basilica’ - Serge Kalouguine

    It has very little to do with architecture or religion, but a lot to do with herbs. Who better to build it than Kalouguine? I consider his Virgilio to be a complete fragrance (the basil morphs with the other components to become a separate entity), but L’Eau Trois and L’Autre are quite natural and earthy. This fragrance will be a dry interplay between basil and oregano.


    ‘Christmastime’ - Bertrand Duchaufour

    Incense full of Christmas smoke. Juniper berry, pine tree, balsam, cardamom, ginger, amber, patchouli, persimmon, frankincense...


    'Cocoa Incest' - Maurice Roucel

    I love what he does with purplish flowers. This time, I’m going for iris as the guest star, with the story of Iris Silver Mist rewritten. Instead of all the irides he could find, it’ll be chocolate. If Missoni was chocolate, this will be a gluttonous affair. Pink pepper, rum, cedar and incense should keep things interesting.


    ‘Cuir C’este’ - Marie Salamagne

    Salamagne is the newest kid on the block. I really want to get her mixing it up in this company. Leathers are probably out of her comfort zone, but it would be a great showcase for her range. I’m going for a milky, honey, tea like strange leather.


    ‘Eau de Camille’ - Pierre Montale

    At this point, I have to state that Guy Robert is the 12th man for my project. This was the fragrance that he was most strongly considered for. His Amouage forals are stunning but loud. I preferred the soft touch of Pierre Montale (yeah, I can’t even believe I’m writing this). When he isn’t preparing aouds, he has shown that he is quite capable of creating lighter and more versatile scents (Mango Manga, Soleil de Capri). I have an accord in mind featuring aloe vera, green apple, chamomile, and passion flower. A fresher Sunset Flowers. PS: Sorry to Annick Goutal.


    'Melon Negro' - Christopher Sheldrake

    It’s ELdO territory with a few of these names. This is Borneo with melon instead of cocoa, with dark chocolate for the 'Negro' component. I would like to see the juxtaposition Sheldrake comes up with.


    ‘Osmanthus de Nuit’ - Pierre Guillaume

    Guillaume’s Un Crime Exotique is the closest thing to this foody floral. I want him to experiment with the nuances of vanilla, until he finds something that accepts a marriage with osmanthus. To my way of thinking, osmanthus is best accompanied by night; hence the name. This will be the marquee fragrance of my Eleventh of the Eleventh line.


    ‘Pomelo Tree’ - Mathilde Laurent

    Giacobetti is more adept at playing with citrus blossom fragrances (L’Ete en Douce, Tilleul), but I would like to see another Mathilde masterpiece. I’m hoping she captures a hyperreal pomelo tree.


    ‘Radienge’ - Olivia Giacobetti

    I’m looking for a classic fougere top and bottom, with an unexpected caramel detour.


    'White Days' - Edouard Flechier

    Fleicher: the flower guy. Frangipani is the main floral note here. I want him to extend the top note, and move towards a saffron, licorice and ylang ylang heart.


    Comments? What's your project?
    Last edited by Potpourri; 26th December 2011 at 08:03 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    Not even one response to this fantasy question? As you can see, I have put a fair bit of work into this.

  3. #3

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    I'm not yet acquainted with so many 'noses' nor their styles, but I have to say I do love your ideas

  4. #4

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    Wonderful post. I'll post a lengthy reply tomorrow after I've got some time to give this more thought. I'm working on my own perfumes but don't want to include them in this fantasy list, so I'll build a new list from scratch.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  5. #5

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lavender View Post
    I'm not yet acquainted with so many 'noses' nor their styles, but I have to say I do love your ideas
    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Wonderful post. I'll post a lengthy reply tomorrow after I've got some time to give this more thought. I'm working on my own perfumes but don't want to include them in this fantasy list, so I'll build a new list from scratch.
    I look forward to reading it.

  6. #6

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    This is a completely fantastic idea and I love it. I've had several ideas for different perfumes I would like to see made, but I've never been able to string them into a line.

    The most recent idea I had is also the dorkiest. I work on C18th literary history and I was thinking of doing historical portraits, I guess in an HdP way. I want small bottles - 30ml EDPs make for affordable price-tags.

    Alexander Pope - Antoine Lie
    A key guy in my dissertation is Alexander Pope - a mean spiteful disfigured guy who was nonetheless the most brilliant poet and one of the most manipulative businessman of his day. He could eviscerate people in a few lines of people better than others could do in a whole poem. Pope obviously needs a masculine iris - an uglyish ISM style iris at the heart and on top, but I also want a chilly violet (flower) and a hissy galbanum on top, maybe even some spikenard to help show the acidity of the man nicknamed 'the wasp of Twickenham'. For an ELDO twist we could include a steamed broccoli note - Pope was one of the first people in the UK to grow and eat broccoli. I'd like dry, papery base. Nothing wet or in the least comforting: no musk, no sandalwood, no amber or benzoin, none of that. At the very most, some cedar or rosewood. What I would really like would be an aromachem that would do vellum. A tanned, leathery base that swims up after a few hours. That's my chilly, nasty portrait in scent of Pope. Perhaps someone a bit kooky like Antoine Lie would be up for this.

    Samuel Johnson - Christopher Sheldrake
    A great counterpoint to Pope is Samuel Johnson. A big, fat man who worked hard at being socially accepted by everyone. He became gouty, I think, partly through drinking too much port, so a big port note in the heart is a must. He was a garralous, sociable man who liked to be in the company of other people - so a sweaty musk base is important, as is the tobacco that comes with socialising in C18th london. He always walked with a staff, so we could perhaps put in a sandalwood. To lighten things up at the other end, we can have some meadowswwet and some myrtle to give a little bit of astringency to an otherwise heavy composition. These are Scottish herbs that Johnson encountered on his Tour of the Hebrides in 1762-3.

    Lady Mary Wortley Montagu - Mark Buxton
    This woman invented the smallpox vaccine, set london society alive with her daring poetry and her scandalous love-affairs with bisexual lords and Italian musicians. She also lived in Constantinope while her husband was an ambassador there. She talks about the scent of aloeswood (seriously!) as well as sandalwood and some other aromatics that I can't figure out. I want this to be a floriental - I want a lightish, resinous oud at the heart (nothing else would sell, after all...), flanked by sandalwood below and orange blossom and jasmine above. I do want those white flowers to be a little indolic to connote the fact that she was a famous beauty before she was scarred by the pox, and the other fact that all her life she new how to gut someone with a pen almost as well as Pope. She loved roses too, so we can add a (small) rose note. She was also noted for educating herself by reading her own father's library unsupervised (and teaching herself greek and latin that way). So a dryish papyrus note would be great. The overall thing could work: Orange blossom, rose, jasmine, oud, papyrus, sandalwood. I want a light touch to this, so perhaps Giacobetti? Maybe that's too light. Mark Buxton, perhaps.

    What do you think?

  7. #7
    Ursula's Avatar
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    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    I love your post - so creative. Sorry that I neither have the background nor the brains to contribute. The fantasies I have, yes, and that is what makes this thread great reading. I LOVE Basenotes, even when it is down, and now it is up, let's see how long the battery lasts.
    There are no answers, only choices. (Stanislav Lem)

  8. #8
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    Line: Parfums Montauban
    Fragrance: Sublime
    Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour

  9. #9

    Default Re: What would be your niche line, fragrances + perfumer/s?

    Quote Originally Posted by Potpourri View Post
    'White Days' - Edouard Flechier

    Fleicher: the flower guy. Frangipani is the main floral note here. I want him to extend the top note, and move towards a saffron, licorice and ylang ylang heart.
    By the way - this sounds absolutely fantastic. I think that saffron and licorice is a really intelligent combination - it could anchor the licorice in the salty, woody end of its flavours, rather than letting it go towards the anisic end that we're all so familiar with from Lolita Lempicka. What I love about this is it would not feel like a series of overlaid binary accords, but instead like a triangulation with the white flowers. Great idea.

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