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  1. #31

    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    It is also produced a liliac co2 extracts, I have tried it, but I'm very interested in smelling the absolute
    Giovanni Sammarco
    natural perfumer

  2. #32

    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    The lilac wine is doing very well. It is on the first racking now and is a clear dark golden colour. Very exciting. At least something came of it.

    My dried privet flowers worked for a while but lost their smell fast. The dried lilacs are still pretty. I can always cheat and spray them with lilac scent....

  3. #33

    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    The lilac wine is doing very well. It is on the first racking now and is a clear dark golden colour. Very exciting. At least something came of it.

    My dried privet flowers worked for a while but lost their smell fast. The dried lilacs are still pretty. I can always cheat and spray them with lilac scent....
    Surprised to hear your privet loses its smell fast. I did a privet enfleurage this year and the flowers produced for several days.

  4. #34

    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    To revive an ancient thread - I just finished successfully doing some lilac enfleurage. (It's spring in Australia right now) It worked much better than I expected, so I thought I would brag a bit, umm... I mean, record the technique here in case anyone in the future is searching for information on how to do it, like I was when I found this thread in the first place.

    My lilacs are just ordinary garden lilacs - I have no idea what variety - the common-as-muck pale purple ones you see everywhere. I used a large, shallow glass baking tray with an airtight plastic lid, bought at the local supermarket. I used the traditional mix of tallow (clarified beef dripping) and lard (clarified pig fat), about 50% of each, both from the supermarket. The tallow is hard, and the lard is soft, so I just melted them together in the microwave until they were pourable and tested them on a cold saucer. The exact proportions to get the right consistency vary according to the ambient temperature but somewhere between 70/30 lard to tallow and 50% of each. When set, the end mix was about the same consistency as a soft wax-based solid perfume, soft enough to stick your finger in and get a smear, but the surface was a bit glossy and not sticky. I poured about half a centimetre in the bottom of the tray and let it set. I didn't score the fat, mindful of how hot it gets here and how easily things go mouldy.

    (Note: I also tried a batch with solid coconut oil. The oil takes up the scent fine, but you can only use it as pomade - you cannot wash it out with alcohol - the coconut oil forms some kind of a solution with the alcohol and there seems to be no simple kitchen-based way to get them to separate again. Unless you have a home distillation unit, or know some serious chemistry, don't bother.)

    I picked my flowers and very carefully sorted out only the perfect blossoms from the clusters, making sure there were no green bits and no bugs and no wilted or browning blossoms and the flowers were completely dry. I didn't, however, carefully lay out the flowers on the surface, I just scattered in whatever I had picked for the day, some days nearly filling the container, some days just a layer over the fat. I changed the flowers once a day, in the late afternoon, simply because that's when I get home from work. I was very careful about removing every little speck from the fat with tweezers when I changed the flowers and to mop up any moisture with a tissue. I kept the tray just at room temperature and used the airtight lid, and it seemed to keep the flowers much fresher than all the written how-to's implied - I suspect I could have easily gotten more than a day out of them - but I kept to the traditional once-a-day changeover. On rainy days when I couldn't pick more flowers, I still took out yesterday's flowers even if I wasn't going to replace them yet. I got 12 changes in before the lilac bush finished flowering.


    At the end I put the fat in a jar with about the same volume of perfumer's alcohol (95PGF4) and stirred it for about 5 minutes a couple of times a day, smooshing the soggy fat into as small pieces as i could manage. It doesn't mix, the fat acts like a sponge and soaks up the alcohol, but you squish it against the side of the jar and the alcohol runs out. You are literally 'washing' the fat/sponge, so you have to keep breaking it up to expose all parts to the alcohol. After 10 days, I put the fat/alcohol mess in the fridge for 24 hours until all the fat solidified, then strained it out through a coffee filter bag sitting in a fine sieve, squishing the fat with the back of a spoon as it warmed up to get all the alcohol out. Then I put the alcohol through another coffee filter, just letting it just drip through, and then a final filtration into the bottles. Voila! Extrait aux fleurs!


    It smells just like the scent of lilac on a spring breeze! It seems like the equivalent of about a 2 - 3% dilution of an absolute to me, or maybe as strong as rosewater - not quite strong enough to be perfume in it's own right, but if you substituted the alcohol in a final dilution of a concentrate for this lilac-scented stuff it's definitely strong enough to be a major top note in a composition. I guess you could evaporate off the alcohol to get an absolute, but I plan on using it as is. I'm very pleased with the result.


    I also did some Jasmine enfleurage using the same method, only with a full 30 charges of flowers, and it's turned out well too. Very close to the scent of the flowering plant on opening, and probably about as strong as a 3 - 5% dilution of an absolute. It's got a more cool, airy smell than the absolute on opening, but it dries down a bit more indolic and skanky, which surprised me. Both of them open with a very realistic 'scent on the breeze' effect, but it's fairly short-lived, then they dry down to the respective flowers' scent.


    So there you go. My Adventures with Enfleurage. I hope it's useful to someone sometime...

  5. #35
    Basenotes Plus
    pkiler's Avatar
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    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Bravo! Sounds smashingly good! :-)
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  6. #36

    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Thank you for sharing your experience and outcome.
    I will try this next June!

  7. #37
    Super Member
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    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Adding my share.

    I've just finished my this years lilac enfleurage. It took me quite some time and many more or less failed ideas like this cute little lilac Lasagne:

    P1010604.jpg

    ... to realise that the pretty much standard way, fat on glass, works best.

    I used 3 square metres of acrylic panes with coconut fat spread on them. The procedure is rather simple: pick blossoms separate (more or less) single flowers from clusters spread them on the fat, remove the withered flowers after 1 to 2 days. Rinse and repeat. Cool place, 15 degrees Celsius, humidity 50% - 60%. If lower the flowers dry out and wither too soon if higher they start fermenting too soon.

    I extract the pomade with ethanol using a hot plate with magnetic stirrer. First I warm the fat in a closed jar to 30 degrees Celsius to liquify it then I add the alcohol and chill the mix while stirring vigorously at 1000 rpm or more. Without stirring the separation doesn't work very well, vacuum filtration is hard and gravitational filtration is impossible.

    The lilacs I harvested grow between 150 and 350 metress above the sea level with some of the low ones in full sunlight and some of the high ones in partial shadow. Yet the time window for finding lilacs in blossom was again narrow; 20 days at very best. Therefore I keep folding the same extract over years. Third year now. There is a large variety of lilac flower odours; some smell of indole some of short chain alcohols including mushroom one, some smell rosier and one tree I found quite citrussy. But the note I appreciate most is sharp almost mustard like and plsticky.

    The resulting extract, I'd estimate it at 1% or less, is clearly identifiable as lilac and remains 30 minutes on a blotter but I don't see it as a perfume component except if one wants to include true lilac in a blend.

    Enfleurage:

    DSC_0552 (2).jpg

    Final stages of the extraction:

    DSC_0553.jpg

  8. #38
    Basenotes Member
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    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Ok so first of all, how utterly lovely those damn lilacs are! I mean, of course I always knew...
    Secondly, it is mind boggling that lilac has turned out to be so elusive! I say that because I grew up around a ton of lilac bushes, they are everywhere in northern Utah and it has always been one of my favorite scents!
    Though the blossoms are undeniably beautiful, I've always considered lilacs to be - for lack of a better word - cheap, and I was under the impression that most people didn't like the scent. My mom was always a lavender lover and it seemed that was the more widely-beloved purple flower (I do not like lavender very much).
    Too funny they are the more difficult floral not just to extract scent from, but to duplicate in a natural way.
    I feel vindicated now in my decades-long, staunch support of these beauties!

  9. #39
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    Default Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    my purfumce lasted 3 yrs, it was quite strong, I placed the buds face first into the shortening, maybe that's why mine was a stronger scent. I also covered my trays with saran wrap and placed in a dark cupboard with air conditioning on....




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