Terre d'Hermes or GIT would be your best bet. Enjoy being 30!
This September I'm turning 30 and would like to pick a signature scent to mark my 30th birthday. My idea is to wear this fragrance most of the time in the coming year, so that it captures this period of my life.
I would really appreciate ideas/recommendations/suggestions of an appropriate fragrance. Below is more information that may give you some idea of what I have in mind:
1. As I'd like to wear all-year-round, it would have to be a versatile scent appropriate for summer and winter. It would also have to be appropriate for almost any environment: office, outdoors, evening, etc.
2. I see this scent as unique but not totally out there. I love Comme Des Garcons 2 Man but I can't wear it everyday - it is just too strange for that. I see this signature fragrance as something unique in the sense of not boring and yet conventional in a way. I think the conventional aspect of it would make it wearable and appropriate for any situation. The unique aspect would make it interesting and thus not boring to wear often for a long time.
3. I'm not crazy about loud, in-your-face scent. I prefer skin scents with low-to-medium projection. I see fragrance as an enhancer of the someone's overall presence, not an attention grabber. I love Dzing! because it is such a quiet fragrance.
5. Longevity: I have dry skin and scents don't last long on me. I am currently wearing Creed's Himalaya and it is a struggle to get more than 5 hours out of it. I'd like this scent to last 8+ hours even though this is not a must.
6. Since I'm turning 30 I'm looking for a serious scent but not so serious that it is stale and boring. I try to live by the aesthetic principles of simplicity, sophistication, spontaneity, and effortless elegance. In a way it is what Italians call "sprezzatura" and Japanese call "iki" - the latter is an aesthetic ideal and the former really means making hard things seem easy and effortless. To this point, this fragrance has to suggest these aesthetic ideals. I find that Jean-Claude Ellena's fragrances have this high level of sophistication to them.
7. Below is a list of fragrances I like with a short description why I like them. These are my top 5 at the moment, which I wear often:
- Comme des Garcons Kyoto: I love the meditative state it puts me in. I love the coffee note and the pine opening. Great for the winter, not so much for the summer.
- Dzing!: it's a great quiet scent. I love the vanilla and leather accord. I usually wear this in the fall/spring. It is very subtle and because it is so soft I feel it is not a typical masculine. I don't think I can wear it much in the summer.
- Blood Concept O: I love the raspberry and leather notes in it. Longevity is great. The metallic note throws me off at times but overall, it's a great fragrance.
- Terre D'Hermes: I love the salty/mineral note and the grapefruit note. I wore this one for a long time and am really tired of it. Also I find it is becoming too popular and I catch people wearing it too often. So, I haven't worn this in quite some time.
- Heeley's Sel Marin: I love the salty/algae notes. It is my favourite summer fragrance along with Verveine.
So far I have been considering the following fragrances but I am not sure if there isn't anything better out there:
1. Creed's Green Irish Tweed - Not sure because of concerns about: longevity, similarity to Cool Water, comments that it may be mostly a summer fragrance
2. Parfums De Nicolai New York - I love the opening, not sure about the amber note. I also find it a little bit soapy.
I really appreciate your idea and feedback. Thank you for all your help.
Terre d'Hermes or GIT would be your best bet. Enjoy being 30!
Can't go wrong with GIT. Others to look at would be Cereus No.7, Spicebomb, or Gucci Pour Homme II.
Honestly, Bulgari Man ticks all those boxes. When you said "Since I'm turning 30 I'm looking for a serious scent but not so serious that it is stale and boring. I try to live by the aesthetic principles of simplicity, sophistication, spontaneity, and effortless elegance." it is the first scent that came to mind. It is extremely versatile, simple and yet sophisticated, and effortlessly elegance. It is a classical composition refracted through a modern lens (much as TdH is, too).
The only thing you might have an issue with is longevity. I personally get great longevity from it but only moderate to low sillage. The low sillage factor is what I think leads many to think it has poor longevity.
I know it seems common, and some have called it boring.. and it can seem simple and even boring with just a cursory sniff on paper.. but a full wearing reveals a lot of subtle nuances in this fragrance.
I have very dry skin and scents tend to disappear quickly on me too (I solve the problem by spraying the shirt).
If you want to really splurge, you could go for a parfum concentration. Parfums, on average, are deeper and remain closer to the skin, but last a long time. Cuir de Russie is the ultimate skin-scent, a smooth, elegant leather. At $185/15ml, cheap it isn't. It's warm, so I probably wouldn't wear it in DC's sticky summers, but Canada is cooler and it should work in the summers there too.
A recent discovery and love is Tiare by Ormonde Jayne. It's a green chypre, similar in style to, say, Chanel Cristalle or Estee Lauder Private Collection. But while Cristalle is cold and haughty, Tiare is relaxed. It has a good dose of citrus, some green, flowers. Very rich and complex, and interesting at all stages. This is what I thought about when I read about "sprezzatura", or effortless elegance. Unfortunately, cheap it isn't either.
GIT is a good choice, Royal Oud is a better one, and if you can afford it you simply can't go wrong with Windsor.
Creed Green Irish Tweed
Before I got to the end of your post I had come up with PdN New York as a suggestion.
Midnight in Paris
Rive Gauche PH
Wild card selection: Acier Aluminium
Current Top Five:
1. Bois des Iles--Chanel
2. George Sand--Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
3. L'Ame Soeur--Divine
4. Violet Blonde--Tom Ford
5. Santal Blush--Tom Ford
TOP 3 hot weather:
1. Gucci Pour Homme II
2. Lalique Encre Noire
3. Creed Millesime Imperial
TOP 3 cold weather:
1. Dior Homme
2. Eau Des Baux
3. L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme
Tom Ford Italian Cypress
Penhaligon`s Opus 1870
Antidote by Viktor & Rolf - One is immediately treated to a fresh and cooling, citrus opening, furnished by the zesty grapefruit, nectarous mandarin and tart bergamot, with a twist of sharp mint. Tumbling to the flush middle, the sweet florals of fruity freesia, green geranium, earthy violet, light lavender and citrusy orange bloosom are nicely encased by the warm and pleasant spices of nutmeg and cinnamon. This lovely, strong heart meanders to the robust base. Here, a pastiche of evocative leather, lively incense, creamy amber, sweet vanilla, murky vetiver, resinous labdanum, clean treemoss, smoky guaiacwood, carroty iris, dry white cedar, bright sandalwood, powdery tonka beans, herbaceous patchouli and soapy white musk bombard you with scents you have experienced a thousand times before. Remarkably, this motley assault leads to an entertaining and intriguing drydown. This high-quality enterprise is very versatile in light of its kaleidoscopic heads, and can be worn any time and any season. A one-stop wonder, this amalgamated composition has excellent longevity and good projection.
Sycomore by Chanel - Upon application, one is treated to a stimulating wave of hesperidic notes, with their inherent tangerine, orange, bergamot and lemon flavors; aldehydes heigthen their sparkliness. Riding the crest of this citrus swell, haitian vetiver imparts its green and smoky facets. A faint anise bobs about. Carried to the waiting middle, fruity and shyly spicy pink pepper showers the airy and bitter vetiver, and is married with the fresh and clean woodiness of cypress, while a hint of sensual jasmine and haunting frankincense waft about. Transitioning to the welcoming base, creamy sandlewood, dry cedar and pine needle-like juniper encase the rooty vetiver, as delicate ylang-ylang lightly mists the lush and woodsy melange adding a trace of powder, and orris masterfully impregnates the concoction with its wet, earthy and slight violet-like facets. With a feebly sour and warm musk flickering, and a sweet and balsamic styrax adding a kiss of vanilla, an exquisite drydown ensues. This elegant composition befits a gentleman. A tasteful and refined, all-season fragrance, it has average projection and good longevity.
I have one for you - it has solid longevity, is not a beast projection wise yet it still clearly shows its presence. It can be worn year round and as oppose to all the other fags, 9/10 suggests in this thread its cheap and still unmistakingly high quality. On top of this it's unique and while having a clearly stylish subtle masculine vibe, it still is close to unisex - hence the question mark - Moschino ?UOMO
125 ml EDT cost 30$
It could so easily have been a Creed or Bond fragrance and people would gladly pay 250$ retail for it - trust me on this !
It reminds me ever so vaguely of Egoiste Platinum Egoiste, yet this frag is totally unique.
Great stuff - and only a select few, even on basenotes, appreciate and know of this fragrance.
I'd rate it 9/10 overall.
Great stuff indeed.
Claus The Danish Viking
Try Ambrarem from Histoires des Parfums. Also Santa Maria Novella's Cuba, which is a very pleasant surprise- creamy, just hinting at the spiciness without being in your face, leather accords in the middle. These are just two out of a hat ideas for mature, rather complex fragrances. Ambrarem can project a little bit. Happy 30!!
The best bet will be GIT or Sycomore
Current Top 5:
1. Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver
2. Tom Ford Noir de Noir
3. Dior Homme / Dior Homme Intense
4. Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Havane / Pure Malt
5. Creed Aventus / Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
You've got a lot to choose from there!
Ok- my two cents- D&G pour homme (vintage).
La vita è breve, la morte vien.
Wanted!!! Rectoverso Tea Tobacco by Ulric de Varens. PM Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stick with PdN New York or go with Sycomore.
I think Invasion Barbare is the perfect choice.
Wow guys, thank you so much for the great recommendations. I really appreciate your input.
Below is a summary of all recommendations so far. The number beside each fragrance is how many times it was recommended. I've added some comments to each one.
Terre D'Hermes - 3 - I love TdH. I used to wear it all the time back in 2009.
Green Irish Tweed - 6 - This is the leader and I'll definitely revisit it. I haven't smelled it in a while but from what I remember and judging by the composition it smells great. The only thing I'm concerned is longevity.
Gucci pour Homme II - 1 - I love the tobacco note in it.
Cereus No. 7 - 1 - I have an almost a full bottle of it. I haven't worn it in a while; thank you for the suggestion, I'll check it out.
Spicebomb - 1 - Very interested to try.
Bvlgari Man -1 - Very interested to try.
Grossmith - 1 - Never heard of the house but I just looked up the site and looks interesting. Definitely worth checking out.
Cuir de Russie -1 - Heard great things but never smelled it.
Ormonde Jayne - Tiare - 1-Very interested to try
Creed Royal Oud - Very interested to try
Creed Windsor - 1 - this is pricey. I'll definitely try it if I find a sample.
Burberry London - 1- I was never too interested in Burberry but now that you recommend it I'll definitely try it. Hopefully I can score a sample too.
PdN: New York -2- I have a sample of this and I love the woody-ambery accords.
Midnight in Paris - Very interested to try
Rive Gauche PH - 1 - Are you referring to the 2011 edition or an older one?
Creed Acier Aluminium - 1 - Interested to try
Timbuktu - 1- This was another one I was thinking about. I'm not sure about the longevity but otherwise I really like it.
Creed Aventus -1- Very interested to try
Tom Ford - Italian Cypress - 1- I've smelled this. It's quality stuff. I'll have to get a sample.
Penhaligon's Opus 1870 -1- I have a sample I haven't smelled in ages. Thank you for bringing it up, now I'll revisit it.
Viktor & Rolf - Antidote -1- I smelled this one a long time ago. I really wanna try it after your detailed description.
Chanel - Sycomore -1- What I love about this one is that it comes in a huge bottle. I smelled it once 2 years ago and I remember it being very sophisticated and elegant. I loved the smokey note in it.
Un Jardin apres La Mousson -1- Will have to revisit. I can't remember much.
Un Jardin sur Le Toit -1- Very interested to try.
Blue Amber -1- You are referring to Montale, right?
Incense Oud - 1- I think I've smelled this one before but I'll have to revisit.
Moschino ?Uomo -1- Thank you for this, very interested to try. I don't think they'll have it in the department stores, so I'll have to hit up the vintage discounters around here.
Histories des Parfums - Ambrarem -1- Very interested to try
Santa Maria Novella - Cuba -1- Very interested to try
D&G pour Homme - 1- Very interested to try
Azzaro pour Homme -1- I have a mini bottle of this one. It's a powerhouse. I love testing it because it is so rich and with so many facets.
Burberry Brit -1- Interested to try
Invasion Barbare -1- Very interesting. By looking at the notes it looks great. I definitely wanna try but at the price of $250 for 60ml, I don't know if I can pull it off.
I have a lot to try but please feel free to add any thoughts/ideas/suggestions. I really appreciate your help.
Creed Windsor also has the "effortless" quality, but I wouldn't want to presume that you're in this for a $700 bottle.
+1 also on Invasion Barbare. It doesn't quite bowl me over as much as other people, but I can understand what they see in it, and again I think it meets this otherwise difficult criterion of effortless elegance.
Last edited by Beranium Chotato; 14th May 2012 at 11:24 PM.
Give Tom Ford Extreme a try also. I think this might work well for you.
Excellent list to try. Timbuktu has very good longevity on me - sort of a background hum, but with good reach and longevity. As does Cuba, uncharacteristically for the house: be aware though that Cuba, which I like too, is a vat of honey with tobacco. Cuir de Russie also comes in edt in the same line and price as Sycomore; as said, it also comes in parfum. The Edt is more floral, and somewhat less persistent (though still long lasting).
Cuba doesn't certainly fall under "sprezzatura". Nor Cuir de Russie -though the accord of CdR is uncommonly smooth, pleasant and elegant at all times, and very skin-level. The sprezzatura reference was to Tiare.
What longevity do you get out of Sycomore?
Don't you find Santal Samoia sweet? I have to try, based on the notes I imagine it being sweet-woody. Of the Hermessence I really like Vetiver Tonka and Osmanthus Yunnan - both of them are very subtle and don't have much longevity, especially the latter. Vetiver Tonka did last on me for a whole day.
Judging by the notes - gin, pine, lime, eucalyptus - Windsor sounds amazing. $700 a bottle though is out of my comfort zone.
In general and specifically GIT, do you find Creed perfumes long lasting? I have experience with Himalaya and I have to reapply in 3 hours. No wonder it comes in 125ml and 8oz bottles. What's your experience, GIT guys?
GIT would be a great choice. No issues with longevity here, I usually get around 8-10 hours easy.
I don't find Santal Massoïa that sweet. Somebody, somewhere described it as the smell of an Hermès store in a bottle, and I totally agree with them. It's like new-person-smell to me
If you find SM too sweet or have longevity issues, you might also try Santal 33 from Le Labo. It is a little less diaphanous and a little more "in charge," but elegant nonetheless.