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  1. #1

    Default Tauer Dark Passage

    A few days ago, BN had announced the limited edition of a Tauer perfume, dark passage, in conjuction with the fundraising for a movie titled Only child. As usual, I had missed the news:

    http://www.basenotes.net/content/106...n-Dark-Passage

    just in case anybody had missed it. Perfumeshrine had something as well:
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...hots-dark.html

    The fact that it doesn't follow IFRA restriction is tempting, though in the list only birch tar seems to offend the oligopolists. Anyhow, I pledged enough for a the trio of current tableau perfumes (7.5ml) each, three soaps, and a Tauer of choice.

    Which brings me to the question: if the fundraising goes through, I will have to choose a Tauer to get. Any suggestions? I have and love ADDM and Lonestar Memories. I smelled and like the incenses, though I don't wear incenses too often. I briefly smelled the rose chypree and it seemed interesting. But from the notes I am also tempted by the carrillon pour un ange (but is it possible to make a good lily of the valley in IFRA times?) and verdant, which I have not smelled.

    cacio

  2. #2
    Ursula's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    You may like Orange Star.

    These are the notes: HEAD NOTES - A fresh citrus chord with mandarines and clementines. HEART NOTES - Juicy lemon grass and clean orange flowers. BODY NOTES - A rich ambergris base with Tonka beans and hints of vanilla.

    This description is taken from the small tickets that come with the Tauer Perfumes Discovery Set. I am very pleased with these 2.5 ml spray vials - 5 samples of your choice - in a small case with a sliding cover. When this one goes, I will get another one with whatever I then fancy. Here is the link:

    http://www.tauerperfumes.com/discovery-set.html

    I am a fan and regularly read his blog.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Ursula:
    Thanks for the suggestion! Another one I have not smelled. (it's probably too late to get the sample package - I smelled the Tauers in a couple of stores in italy). Mandarine sounds good, orange blossom I'm not a big fan, it often falls into soap for me. But after you mentioned I searched around and found a post at perfumeshrine, which describes it as orange with a beautiful amber base with a touch of spices, the flowers being background players. So that sounds really interesting.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Damn it cacio, yet another reason to buy more perfume!!!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Oh, I was looking at those yesterday and was tempted to pledge for the Dark Passage perfume, but resisted in the end. I remember it did say that delivery would be in June, so maybe you do have time to sample?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    I was hoping to like Incense Extreme. It is extreme but there is a sweet note to it that i don't like.

    Incense Rose is very nice though. The rose in it reduces the sweetness of the incense.
    By the way, Rose Incense is literally Incense Extreme with a healthy dollop of rose.

    You actually own my to favorite ones.

    Why not order a few samples from LuckyScent (order 2 of each then transfer to atomizers) and then make your decision.

    for swap/sale:





  7. #7
    Ursula's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I was hoping to like Incense Extreme. It is extreme but there is a sweet note to it that i don't like.

    Incense Rose is very nice though. The rose in it reduces the sweetness of the incense.
    By the way, Rose Incense is literally Incense Extreme with a healthy dollop of rose.

    You actually own my to favorite ones.

    Why not order a few samples from LuckyScent (order 2 of each then transfer to atomizers) and then make your decision.
    To get the Discovery Set is more practical than ordering a few from www.luckyscent.com - hedonist222

    4 of LuckyScents vials plus shipping cost almost as much as 5 samples in the Tauer Discovery Set case.

    The Set can be ordered by choosing 5 Tauer scent samples. The vials are glass spray vials in excellent condition, they work, and they contain at least 2.5 ML of scent. I am saying that because in his blog Andy Tauer once stated that he fills them generously, a touch more than 2.5 ML to be on the safe side ... (that is just the kind of work ethics he has when he fills samples or bottles). The price is reasonable for such a nice case - suitable for travel, quick touch-up anywhere.

    Look at the link in my post #2 in this thread, in case someone wants to order. It is not too late, it will be mailed promptly, sure as a Swiss watch. Not to all countries, but to most. Read the paragraph at the bottom of that page.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Quote Originally Posted by Ursula View Post
    To get the Discovery Set is more practical than ordering a few from www.luckyscent.com - hedonist222

    4 of LuckyScents vials plus shipping cost almost as much as 5 samples in the Tauer Discovery Set case.

    The Set can be ordered by choosing 5 Tauer scent samples. The vials are glass spray vials in excellent condition, they work, and they contain at least 2.5 ML of scent. I am saying that because in his blog Andy Tauer once stated that he fills them generously, a touch more than 2.5 ML to be on the safe side ... (that is just the kind of work ethics he has when he fills samples or bottles). The price is reasonable for such a nice case - suitable for travel, quick touch-up anywhere.

    Look at the link in my post #2 in this thread, in case someone wants to order. It is not too late, it will be mailed promptly, sure as a Swiss watch. Not to all countries, but to most. Read the paragraph at the bottom of that page.
    Very true.

    Ordering directly from him is more practical.

    for swap/sale:





  9. #9

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    If it's of any help I have some reviews of some Tauers that you've mentioned here.
    Orange Star is my favourite and I normally hate citrus. Whilst the orange blossom does go a little soapy, theres loads more going on. The review is in that link

  10. #10

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Cacio, knowing your taste, Carillon Pour Un Ange is the one to go, REALLY! A true to life springy muguet that fears no rivals (with the only possible exception of Diorissimo). Verdant is more experimental (and not exactly successfull IMO). A bizarre green-earthy fragrance with a sticky/sweet, sort of cotton candy-like accord and some resins. Interesting but not completely satisfying.

    Sidenote: I actually don't know how IFRA affected the composition of CPUA, but it's still one of the closest things to a masterpiece in the Tauer's range.


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  11. #11
    Ursula's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    When you follow along the www.tauerperfumes.com/blog you will read that occasional Andy Tauer mentions how he deals with regulations. At any rate, lots of high quality ingredients are in his perfumes. That is what makes his line outstanding. The scents speak for themselves. This post comes from one of his fans.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Thanks for all the suggestions. Later today I will read some of the sources.

    This is likely not going through, though. As of today, they're still $5K short of the required funding, and there is only one week left.

    cacio

  13. #13

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    Cacio, knowing your taste, Carillon Pour Un Ange is the one to go, REALLY
    I was thinking the exact same thing.

    Adding: buy the discovery set, it's affordable, gets shipped super fast, cute packaging and the sizes are better for sampling.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions. Later today I will read some of the sources.

    This is likely not going through, though. As of today, they're still $5K short of the required funding, and there is only one week left.

    cacio
    Who knows ? They are very close. If it is a well-designed campaign there is something needed at the last etape to give it an extra push ... otherwise, nobody has any faith left, and then for sure nobody contributes any backing.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Luckily, they have now reached the funding goal, so the project is going through. The offers will close soon (thursday), so if anybody wants to try Dark passage, there's little time left.

    http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/...laver?ref=live

    cacio

  16. #16

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    I did it. I love supporting the arts and a perfumer with the same money. And I get to try something new!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Still early for the shipment of Dark passage, so I haven't had to choose yet what else to get. But I took your suggestions and ordered 5 samples.

    Rose chypree and Orange star: I don't know if it's me or what, but to my nose, the dominant note in both is a sort of Tauerade brought to its extreme consequences. A strange, dry note, a sort of flint, sandy mineral, perhaps the combination of some piercing spice (cloves?) and woody-ambery materials. The effect is of dryness and bitterness, like a beach or a desert. The note is similar to that found in the base of LADDM, but without ambers, and much stronger. Under this note, Orange star has some citrus (a sweet mandarin), the effect being of dried citrus peels. Rose chypree has a nice rose. But in neither cases does the supposedly principal material become prominent. They are both very unusual and interesting, there's nothing like that. But I still have not developed any love for them, though this may change.

    Zeta: linden prominent, as per description. The linden is pure and would not be confused for a cleaning product. Yet the material is what it is and cannot escape a certain soapiness-which I dislike. I have yet to find a linded frag that I like; this one is a beautiful treatment for a material that doesn't seem to deserve it.

    Carrillon pour un ange: unreasonable expectations can distort our judgement. Having heard of the perfect muguet, I was expecting a new (vintage) Diorissimo. Luca Turin claims that IFRA restrictions have made it impossible to create a good muguet, though some others, like Elena at perfumeshrine, disagree. Tauer's attempt makes me think that LT is right. But this is unfair. Tauer clearly wasn't trying to do a new Diorissimo, the happy carefree scent of spring mornings. CpuA has a clean, somewhat functional muguet resting over a dark, sombre base (leather, a hint of Tauerade). The feel is oddly gothic, the angel carry a sad message, more like an angel of death than the usual cherubs frolicking in the fields.

    Verdant: perhaps my favorite in the set. A striking and well done vegetal note, green, but more stems than leaves. I like these notes. Still - I feel it kind of a waste to resort to Tauer for this note, though I cannot think of anything else like this.

    So in sum I'm not yet sure what to get. I'm leaning towards faithful old incense rose, though I wanted to get a newer one. Verdant is my favorite, Orange Star and Rose chypree the more striking - and may be I'll get attracted to them.

    cacio

  18. #18

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Thanks for the update and the impressions, Cacio.

    I was in Les Senteurs in London yesterday and tried a bunch of different things, unthinkingly sticking one or two tester strips in my bag. On the way home I went rummaging for my keys and was assaulted by a strong, tenacious smell that stuck to everything in the bag. It took a few minutes to realize it was the strip of Carillon Pour Un Ange.

    Until I read your review above, I was pretty ignorant of the scent. I didn't catch that it was supposed to be muguet. I still don't. To me it smells like a watery floral infused with the smoke of burning plastic. The first Tauer I've smelled that I don't like even a little!

    On the up-side, I finally bought L'ADDM!

    Just on muguet, I happened to read that Persolaise really rated Angela Flanders's Lily of the Valley: http://persolaise.blogspot.co.uk/201...se-angela.html. Thanks to Nick's BN article about oud, I checked out Angela's shop and have become a bit of an evangelist.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Carrillon pour un ange: unreasonable expectations can distort our judgement. Having heard of the perfect muguet, I was expecting a new (vintage) Diorissimo.
    You're right, expectations can distort our judgement. No, CPUA it's not an attempt to reproduce Diorissimo and, yes, cosnidering IFRA's restrictions on ingredients it could sound even pointless to try but, in the end, the Tauer is one of the best iteration of the muguet currently available on the market.

    IMO Tauer have been able to capture the real essence of this flower which is spirngy and delicate for a few aspects and poisonous/unsettling for others (you call it an "angel of death", I call it "poisonous").

    Verdant: perhaps my favorite in the set. A striking and well done vegetal note, green, but more stems than leaves. I like these notes. Still - I feel it kind of a waste to resort to Tauer for this note, though I cannot think of anything else like this.
    The first time I tried Verdant I was really wowed but I rapidly developed a strong aversion to this fragrance. It's unbearably sweet to my taste because of a sort of "cotton candy" accord thant goes on and on and on.... Yes, it has an experimental facet that I still find somewhat intriguing but, overall, I find it more like an odor than a body fragrance...


    So in sum I'm not yet sure what to get. I'm leaning towards faithful old incense rose, though I wanted to get a newer one. Verdant is my favorite, Orange Star and Rose chypree the more striking - and may be I'll get attracted to them.
    If, at this point, your choice is restricted to these, I'd go with Incense Rose, hands down. Maybe a tad too simple but nonetheless delightful.


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  20. #20

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Cacio said:
    Luca Turin claims that IFRA restrictions have made it impossible to create a good muguet,
    Hmmm.... I bought Carrillon pour un ange at Scent Bar when it was brand new and not in the Taurer bottles yet. It's in a little plain bottle that resembles a nail polish bottle and it only holds about 10 or 15 ml costing about $100. I'm wondering if what I got is pre IFRA restrictions.

    I had the same experience with Orange Star as alfarom did with Verdant, "wowed" initially, then it got tiresome fast. Try testing your sample of Orange Star against others, see if you still like it.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Kagey:
    indeed CpuA is very strong. The paper strip that came in the envelope is still going strong after a couple of weeks... Interesting point about burning plastic, it is indeed true. I love the burning plastic note of Breath of God, but here, with the muguet, not so much.
    I had never heard of Angela Flanders, I'll have to try ...

    Alfarom:
    luckily, on my skin Verdant doesn't become particularly sweet. But it's a little too simple. We shall see.

    cacio

  22. #22

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    Firehorse:

    to my nose, the muguet is clearly there and identifiable. But it's a little too floral, a little too sweet, a little too functional. Vintage Diorissimo has a natural vividness and pleasantness that's missing from anything else I have smelled. But as said, many think LT is wrong, and rather think that the missing ingredients are something like (nonbanned) civet. Certainly, Diorissimo has gone downhill way before IFRA.

    cacio

  23. #23

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    I too find CPuA to be a little too floral for my tastes, but my bf loves it (he picked it out and bought it for me). It's one of those fragrances that I like to pull out and smell and sort of study but not wear very often. I respect it but I can't pull it off.

    I haven't delved into vintage yet, but all your posts on vintage are inspiring me to take the plunge.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Tauer Dark Passage

    I finally got the packet from the fundraising. I quickly tried Dark passage. The first spray of a bottle is often unrepresentative, so I must try again soon. But anyway, what I got with this spray is primarily a big patchouli. Dry, devoid of sweetness. I don't get much birch tar, but there's definitely a touch of leather. The patch tones down a bit and becomes more vegetal going into the drydown, which has then also the usual dry Tauerade, perhaps with a touch of leather again. Interesting, but not what I expected. But again, I need to try again.

    In the packet, I also got the two other movie perfumes. I tried Miriam a few days ago, and I loved it. Rich, powdery, old style, but with the dry Tauerade to keep things in check. I may need to get a bigger bottle... Still need to try Loretta.

    cacio

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