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  1. #1

    Default Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    i LEARNT THAT THE RAW MATERIAL, OAKMOSS WAS BEING TAKEN OUT OF THE MARKET, EARLY 2011...
    WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE ISSUE PLEASE..???

  2. #2

    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    It's fairly well known now among industry types that until a decent smelling synthetic alternative or alternatives to oakmoss can be produced Chypres are kinda dead right now. The same problem exists for perfumes based primarily on Citrus oils, and god help the poor perfumes based primarily on Citrus and Oakmoss like Terre d'Hermes which now smells of little else but Iso E-Super (much to my eternal sadness).

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    You can still use oakmoss, just not at the amounts needed to create the clear mossy note necessary for a true chypre.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Plus 1 what Monkey Bars said.


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  5. #5
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    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    I remember someone on another thread saying that it wasn't banned outright, just that the amount had to be moderated.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    I remember someone on another thread saying that it wasn't banned outright, just that the amount had to be moderated.
    Me too. Sure I've heard max is 0.1%

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Quote Originally Posted by dnc View Post
    Me too. Sure I've heard max is 0.1%
    I heard Killian Hennessy say at a SF meet- up that the allowable amount was reduced to 3% from the previous 5%.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Oakmoss is IFRA compliant as long as it is low-atrinol. Off the cuff, I can think of Czech & Speake's Oxford & Cambridge, which has a huge whack of the real thing.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Correct, IFRA lowered down the maximum amount of it that can be used in perfume

  10. #10

    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    well, oakmoss is often (probably always) a composition, when you buy oakmoss absolute it also contains treemoss. the suppliers mix up different types (and possibly harvests) to get a certain signature. but, the limits for oakmoss and tree moss are cumulative, and the maximum currently allowed is 0,1% of the total formula (of the final product, including alcohol).

    this is indeed not enough for the chypre accord, especially in the higher concentrations (parfum, extrait).

    there are several replacements, like verymoss, and i think some manufacturers have omitted the use of oakmoss altogether. but these replacements, they're not the same as the real thing. other might still use it, together with the replacements, perhaps some patchouli (which enhances oakmoss to a certain extend, but also modifies it) and so on; some have indeed cleverly come up with convincing results.

    but the majority of classic chypres are pretty much damaged by reformulation by now.
    Last edited by gido; 8th June 2012 at 12:47 PM.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Chypre fragances ( 2011/2012 ) are they still made with oakmoss...?????

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    You can still use oakmoss, just not at the amounts needed to create the clear mossy note necessary for a true chypre.
    This ^^^^^^

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