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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Guys - whats a great patchouli based fragrance which is fresh?
    Looking at Santa Maria Novella but it looks dark and disastrous!

    Needs to be earthy and very fresh but not overly formal.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Fresh Patchouli Pure
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Patchouli by Murdoch of London - very very earthy indeed

    Probably not a well known brand here on BN but if you Google it you are bound to find places that sell it.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Patchouli by nature is not fresh. It's dense and earthy.

    Can't think of a fresh patchouli.
    for swap/sale:



  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie Indaco's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    I agree with Hedonist. The closest you'll get to fresh would probably be a scent that accentuates the lighter aspects of patchouli with citrus. PG Intrigant Patchouli and Nobile 1942 Patchouli are two that I've tried recently that do this well, but they're both very earthy as well.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Patchouli by nature is not fresh. It's dense and earthy.

    Can't think of a fresh patchouli.
    Agree

    All of my patchouli favorites do NOT smell fresh.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

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    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    earthy - yes always - but it can be light and not dark - of course this needs to be combined with "fresher" notes.
    I am liking Murdoch's Patchouli it comes off as a little fresh - but getting this bottle its going to be a huge headache!
    My friend only had a little to sample here in Malaysia.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Patchouli by nature is not fresh. It's dense and earthy.

    Can't think of a fresh patchouli.
    Guys - whats a great patchouli based fragrance which is fresh?
    Looking at Santa Maria Novella but it looks dark and disastrous!

    Needs to be earthy and very fresh but not overly formal.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Keiko Mecheri - Patchoulissime - quite light
    Etro - Patchouli - earthy and straightforward

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Quote Originally Posted by benzganesh View Post
    Guys - whats a great patchouli based fragrance which is fresh?
    Looking at Santa Maria Novella but it looks dark and disastrous!

    Needs to be earthy and very fresh but not overly formal.
    SMN is not disasterous ! If you are not cool enough for it, just say so

    I really good designer patchouli that I feel comes across as fresh is Sergio Tacchini Stile.

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    Fresh Patchouli Pure
    I guess this one is a dead giveaway just by the name.
    Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Aramis New West, Alain Delon Iquitos, Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Oxford & Cambridge, Azzaro pour Homme (vintage),...etc.

    Seeking decant/sample of PdE Ambre Russe, Jil Sander Feeling Man, Comme des Garcons 2 Man, Giorgio VIP, ....etc. I have samples to swap.

    More HERE
    Please PM me !

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Micallef Patchouli

  12. #12

    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Patchouly Indonesiano by Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561

    Smells like the compost department in a plant nursery.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Similar to others, I can't think of a patchouli that's fresh in the way that word is typically used in perfumery. Cucumbers, limes, melon, some aquatic notes, some other citruses generally give a fragrance a fresh quality. But patchouli as a noticeable note is generally combined with notes like amber, musk, vanilla, and leather that really don't suggest "fresh."

    HOWEVER, I do find that those patchoulis that are of high quality and almost pure patchouli do have a "fresh" aspect in that the herbal/minty quality of patchouli can shine. They are still earthy of course, but sometimes, there's noting more invigorating or refreshing than lying down on a cool forest floor. Some fragrances can impart that aroma. For this kind of freshness, YES, SMN's Patchouli is hard to beat. But, it really is an almost pure patchouli, nothing sweet or abstract here. (Lorenzo Villoresi's Patchouli is also excellent; the patch is tempered with some musk, which some think gives a "clean" feeling.)

    So I do think an earthy patchouli fragrance can still be "fresh" in the herbal sense, although this is probably different from the way people commonly think of as fresh which tends to mean notes like melon, lime, some citrus, maybe aquatics. Try the SMN if you can. It's one of my Holy Grails.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Ulrich Lang Nightscape is the closest thing I can think of. It is cool and woody.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  15. #15
    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    I'm Tamil.
    The word patchouli comes form the Tamil word "patchai" green and ouli (light as in luminescence) - its described in the text
    as fresh in fact all things "pachai" is fresh - not fresh like melon,water melon or cheap citrus - true to the word all things green which has a fresh composition.

    Anything that starts with "pacha" in herbs and plants is considered fresh (in the herbal sense)
    and to :

    Mr."Surfacing" - I can rock any patchouli - but i think 38 degree - 42 degree Celsius in Malaysia is a dumb way to do so but i am sure you can rock this under your garage oven, sorry am not up for suicide.

    You see - you can't even wear Boucheron Homme, or Aramis here.

    Please be kind enough to read my post i said "looks like" which means - i have no way of sampling it and need to blind buy it Since most niche brands are unavailable in my nation.



    cheers.

  16. #16
    Surfacing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    ^ No problem. At that heat, I can totally understand where you are comming from. The rec's in this thread are quite good, and actually the last one...Nightscape ....may fit the bill. Its been awhile since I sampled this one, but I think it is quite workable in the heat.

    The SMN will indeed be too much in Malaysian summer's ( I would imagine). It almost behaves like a potent oil. I cannot imagine every going through a bottle. But I really enjoyed it a while back when I was on a major patchouli kick.

    Another one to check out is L'artisan's Patchouli Patch. I don't get good longevity from it, however.

    But trust me on the Tacchini Stile. Its hard for people to trust a "designer" patchouli, but this one is quite good for summer.

    Good luck !
    Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Aramis New West, Alain Delon Iquitos, Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Oxford & Cambridge, Azzaro pour Homme (vintage),...etc.

    Seeking decant/sample of PdE Ambre Russe, Jil Sander Feeling Man, Comme des Garcons 2 Man, Giorgio VIP, ....etc. I have samples to swap.

    More HERE
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  17. #17
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Quote Originally Posted by benzganesh View Post
    I'm Tamil.
    The word patchouli comes form the Tamil word "patchai" green and ouli (light as in luminescence) - its described in the text
    as fresh in fact all things "pachai" is fresh - not fresh like melon,water melon or cheap citrus - true to the word all things green which has a fresh composition.

    Anything that starts with "pacha" in herbs and plants is considered fresh (in the herbal sense)
    benzganesh, thanks for the very interesting etymological lesson about the word "patchouli"! I just love knowing the origin of the name of my favorite note. As you might tell from my post above, I totally agree with the Tamil that patchouli is fresh and green in the sense that you describe.

    Knowing that this is what you have in mind when you say "fresh," I think the SMN Patchouli is an excellent candidate, because it is earthy, fresh in that way, but not at all formal (no amber, vanilla, or musk to mellow it or make it seem like business affairs). It has nothing to dilute or muddy up the soaring patchouli fragrance, which remains sharp and earthy and has that resinous minty-dark green aroma that IMO is fresh.

    You also want to know whether it's a lighter or darker aroma. I wish I could give you an opinion on that, but I confess that I do not have a good grasp of what those words mean for a fragrance.

    Some people might think SMN Patchouli is too potent, and I think some people associate it with "head shop patchouli" because it's aroma strikes a lot of people as being like undiluted or unblended patchouli, but I don't have that association and this is absolutely top quality. I would wear this in humid weather, but mostly at home for my own enjoyment and not really in public: a lot of people in the US just don't like patchouli because of the "head shop" or hippie association, and I want to be conscientious of others' sensibilities. But, you might not have this obstacle (dislike of patchouli) in Malaysia; maybe in Malaysia patchouli is better-loved on its own.

    I use SMN Patchouli almost every day after work . . . it is comforting and revives me. I have a lot of patchouli-dominant fragrances (see my wardrobe), and this is the one I reach for to clear my mind and put me in a god mood after work. If you have to blind buy, I think it's a good match for your needs.

    The Nightscape is also an interesting suggestion. I found the sample I got to be very soft and not very big, which may suit your climate. Personally, I found the patchouli kind of hidden, but then again my frame of reference are frags like the SMN Patchouli which is just very potent.

    Good luck choosing!!
    Last edited by jensz; 14th June 2012 at 04:30 PM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Try:

    Noir Patchouli by Histoire de Parfums
    - Upon application, one is treated to a forceful rush of a patchouli accord. The earthy and herbaceous splendor of patchouli is married with the the warm, subtle nuttiness of coriander as well as the somewhat woody sweetness and spiciness of cardamon. This strong opening percolates a bit before drifting to the heart. Here, in the middle, the musky earthiness of patchouli definitely tones down, and is encircled with a floral accord, bringing nuances of sweet rose, spicy jasmine and sweetly fragrant lily to mind. A lively and woody black pepper erupts almost like an incense, while the lightly terpenic and pine-like aspects of jupiter berries present for recognition. A nascent undertone of raw leather carries the brew to the waiting base. Here, the balsamic, grassy and woody patchouli partners with the rawness of the leather, which has come into its own and vies for supremacy. A green and slightly smoky earthiness from vetiver infuses the dual, while a white musk imparts a faintly soapy and powdery feel. And, vanilla, with its aromatic, woody sweetness, wafts about. A comforting drydown ensues. Far from being a dark composition, this well-constructed fragrance is nuanced enough to carry its rather commonplace ingredients and stand above others in its genre. Being a unisex scent, it has average projection and longevity.

    I would not characterize this scent as particularly fresh, but you might, based on your definition aforesaid. It is certainly not dark.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Nombril Immense by État Libre d'Orange shows some nice freshness!
    Currently wearing: Habit Rouge by Guerlain

  20. #20

    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    I'm wearing L'artisan Voleur de Roses- mostly patchouli with rosy overtones- in hot weather (Northern Italy: up to now not so hot but expecting to reach 35°C next week!) and I find it definitely "fresh", shady.
    Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli has a certain coolness in the opening, but it gets boozy and sticky in the drydown in hot weather.

  21. #21
    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fresh Patchouli? (Santa Maria Novella)

    Thank you guys - i am going to ask around for the SMN Patchouli sample!!! if i am unable to do so looks like i will have to settle for Murdoch's Patchouli ( the only one i could sample here so far)

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