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  1. #1

    Default The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I bought a set of samples(25) of État Libre d'Orange and now I'm trying to find out on which of the lot I am going to spend my voucher. So far I did not find the ultimate pleasant surprise, so for those who also tried this house's collection my question: what would be your 'État Libre d'Orange' choice?


  2. #2

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Out of those I've tried, I'd probably say Fat Electrician, but must admit I find all of these scents underwhelming. I don't see Like This listed (though the titles are a bit small in the graphic), but that one seems to be the most liked among ELdO's scents. I personally didn't like it at all, but some find the pumpkin smell distinctively interesting. I'd be interested to know, among ELdO fans, which one of these gets the most votes.
    Current Top Five:

    1. Creed Green Irish Tweed
    2. Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
    3. Hermes Concentre d'Orange Verte
    4. Bond No. 9 New Haarlem
    5. Creed Original Vetiver

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Of the ones I tried, liked Rien.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I love Eloge du Traitre ; it has some similarity with Yatagan and reminds me the smell of a very nice italian aperitivo (Campari)...

  5. #5

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    For me:

    Tom of Finland
    Delicious Closet Queen
    Jasmin et Cigarette
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  6. #6

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I always try to skip their marketings and focus on the juices. As a matter of fact I now own 8 full bottles including:

    Tom Of Finland (great lemony saffron but you have to be fine with powdery notes)
    Eloge Du Traitre (sort of a love son between Yatagan and CDG Laurel)
    Rien (most bitter and animalic leather ever. One of the most unapologetic fragrances around)
    Je Suis Un Homme (great old-school understated masculine with a modern twist)
    Fat Electrician (sweet vetiver)
    Antiheros (lavender soap)
    Archive 69 (camphraceous resins)
    Delicious Closet Queen (wrong purchase)


    I thoroughly enjoy all of the above fragrances with the only possible exception of Delicious Close Queen which was an impulse buy because of a 70% sale on the whole range at LaFayette in Berlin.

    Other good fragrances in their range include Charogne (if you like turned indolic flowers), Noel Au Balcon (gingerbread), Rossy De Palma (uncomfortable and low-cut rose) and Like This (an overlooked masterpiece IMO).

    People also praise Jasmine and Cigarettes but unfortunately I'm not amongst the biggest fans of jasmine.


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  7. #7

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Thanks everybody for your feedback so far!
    barclaydetolly, I dropped Fat Electrician; I find it not special enough to buy.
    Hednic, I keep Rien as a possibillity.
    Avecesar, Eloge du Traitre is certainly a candidate: I find it nice, but maybe it is too close to Yatagan(which I have and love)
    Primrose, from these three I like Jasmin et Cigarette the most.
    Alfarom, I read your reviews with pleasure; they are pleasantly written and a big help!
    I will keep you informed about my final choice!
    Last edited by Trauerkraut; 15th June 2012 at 01:51 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I like many of them, but my favorite is Jasmin et Cigarette.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  9. #9

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Hi there. I had the same experience 6 months ago and opted for Charogne but it's definitely a cold weather bomb of inedible indolic white flowers with a rich edible gourmand vanilla. Just super rich and luxurious but bad in a good way underneath.

    I also enjoyed Noel au Balcon, Delicious Closet Queen and Putain des Palaces but these are all quite rich feminines to me. Eloge du Traitre came close to being "my" incense until I discovered Bois D'Encens and Avignon.
    Rien is fantastic leather. Pure leather, nothing softening it, no citrus, no fruit or flowers just hard faced tarry leather. Lovely! I shall buy when I've used all my 4 samples.

    The rest I found just Meh including SM

  10. #10

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I've been trying to ignore their marketing because it really rubs me the wrong way, the one that caught my eye is Like This, which is quite good. It's really kind of different than anything I've tried, it's warm and comforting, to me it's like they bottled Thanksgiving. The pumpkin is what made me interested in the first place, I'll be purchasing a bottle soon. I haven't tried any others yet though.

  11. #11

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Thank you for your kind words, Trauerkraut.

    Whatever you choose is fine but, if I can give you one more advice, don't overlook this line which is created by some of the most talented perfumers around including Antoine Maisondieu (worked for Comme Des Garcons, Armani, Gucci, Lanvin, Acqua Di Parma), Christine Nagel (worked for Dior, Cartier, Chopard, Fendi, Guerlain, Jo Malone, Lalique and Lancome among others), Antoine Lie (Armani, Comme Des Garcons, Davidhoff and many others), Nathalie Feisthauer (Amouage, Hermes, Therry Mugler, Cartier, Yoji Yamamoto)...

    Their marketing campaigns can be sometime silly but their fragrances are anything but....


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  12. #12

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I like Tom of Finland, Charogne, Nombrill Immense.

    When I first sprayed Rien it reminded me of Kouros. Rien is a blast of animalic, aldehyde, pepper and incense. Not a fan of it.

    Like This is nice but more on the uni/fem side.

    I still have yet to smell the others i.e Fat Electrician.....
    Last edited by volley2; 15th June 2012 at 01:55 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I like the house a lot, so it's hard to choose one.

    Probably the smoothest and easiest to wear, despite the name, is Tom of Finland, a smooth, lemony, saffrony suede.

    If instead you've always loved animalics and things like Kouros, Muscs Koublai Khan, and the like, then it's hard to beat Rien, an uncompromising, naked, animalic leather; it's a little subdued when you first spray, but then it blooms on the skin in all its (nearly perennial) power. Spray lightly.
    And finally, if instead you are attracted by traditional old style masculines, I'd say Je suis un homme, woody resiny herbal.

    cacio

  14. #14

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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I loved Rien the first time I sampled. I getting a bottle for this fall. Hate SM and Jas. and Cig is not bad, but not me. Charogne is different, and wearable if you spray and walk through.

  15. #15

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Why buy any of them if you didn't like them that much? Isn't that the point of sampling first?

    Pass that voucher over here and I'll get Je Suis Un Homme!

  16. #16

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Thanks once again gentlemen for your helpful remarks!
    Petrujjic, I find Jasmin et Cigarette very intriguing for the 'ashtray' smell that made me turn down Tea for Two is here combined with a wonderful jasmine, which makes it very likeable. It might be slightly too feminine for my likes though.
    Alityke, from your suggestions I like Éloge du Traître the most.
    Starshipvelcro, at this very moment I have on my left hand Tilda Swinton Like This and on my right hand Bijou Romantique: I like the latter the most! Both are feminine!
    Alfarom, I like the Pop Art -like approach of this house...R&R-perfume, who needs more? Thanks once again for your input!
    Volley2, from your suggestions Nombril Immense is my choice: soft patchouli with a little freshness, I like it!
    Cacio, Tom of Finland is not special enough for me; I will keep Rien as a possibillity.
    Stevolution, S.M. nor Charogne will be my choice, Rien and J&C stay good suggestions.
    Kagey, I will not buy any of them if I don't find a suitable candidate. However my voucher is certainly not spent on Je Suis un Homme: I find it not special enough!

  17. #17

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    many great options in that house , but RIEN deserves all my admiration.

    @Trauerkraut, to me nose, the ashtray side of Jasmin et Cigarette (great scent btw) is not very pronounced but rather a faint companion.

  18. #18
    Basenotes Junkie FullCollapse's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    My eyes arent good enough to read those small titles, but my favorite ELDO's are:

    Rien
    Eloge du Traitre
    Je suis un Homme
    Fat Electrician

  19. #19

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Fa Electrician : a nutty Vetiver
    Je suis un Homme: lemony stark leather
    Rien: something else
    Jasmin et Cigarette : jasmine buds (buds because not potent and indolic) in an ashtray. Full bottle worthy

    for swap/sale:





  20. #20

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Yesterday I wore Nombril Immense: nice soft patchouli, but not better than Borneo 1834 or Patchouli Patch, the two patchoulis that I have already...so although I like it my choice will not be Nombril Immense. Today I try Antihéros, a soapy lavender: I like this one better than Caron pour un Homme(which I gave away for being somewhat boring), so maybe Antihéros will be my future funeral scent!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Eloge du Traitre

  22. #22

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Thanks for keeping us updated, Trauerkraut. What did you think of Secretions Magnifiques? I'm wearing it at the moment and noticing that it's very different on skin from on a card. Surely you can't accuse this one of being not special enough or too much like xyz...?

  23. #23

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I'll take that sample of Secretions Magnifiques off your hands once you're done with it!

  24. #24

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Today I wore Archives 69: it smells like a perfume store smells on a busy saturday afternoon, nice but predominantly female, about the same as yesterday's Antihéros which I also find slightly too feminine. Two candidates less!
    Tomorrow it will be RIEN day...!

  25. #25

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    Tomorrow it will be RIEN day...!
    Go VERY light on the trigger, this stuff is killer. Ask Hedonist (who usually applies no less than 20 sprays of anything else).


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  26. #26

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    Go VERY light on the trigger, this stuff is killer. Ask Hedonist (who usually applies no less than 20 sprays of anything else).
    ;-)! ...it's a three-quarters filled 2ml sample: I will use it all...!(as I did with the other ones)

  27. #27

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Oh Alfarom, a question: you speak in your 'Fils de Dieu' review of 'Fils De Dieu, Du Riz et Des Agrumes (aka Philippine Houseboy)'. Does this mean that 'Fils de Dieu' and Philippine Houseboy are the same? (I got two different samples of them both??)
    Last edited by Trauerkraut; 18th June 2012 at 04:49 PM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    ;-)! ...it's a three-quarters filled 2ml sample: I will use it all...!(as I did with the other ones)
    I hope you're not going at the office tomorrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    Oh Alfarom, a question: you speak in your 'Fils de Dieu' review of 'Fils De Dieu, Du Riz et Des Agrumes (aka Philippine Houseboy)'. Does this mean that 'Fils de Dieu' and Philipine Houseboy are the same? (I got two different samples of them both??)
    As far as I know, Yes!


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  29. #29

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by dollars&scents View Post
    Eloge du Traitre
    This is the only one I've had a chance to try so far, and I really like it.

  30. #30

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Absolutely love Tom of Finland, Rien is decent but seems short-lived, same for Fat Electrician. Not experienced any others.

  31. #31

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I don't know all of them. I love Fat Electrician.

  32. #32

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Well...this was the 'Rien' day: a killer indeed! Unfortunately not my kind of killer: I took Alfarom's advice and went VERY light on the trigger; nevertheless the leather kept on dominating the atmosphere all day long. I showered it off as soon as I was home and sprayed myself with Éloge du Traître...which will not be my choice either: too Yatagan! Two more possibillities less! Tomorrow I will make my final choice: exciting!

  33. #33

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    At this point I guess your not an ELDO type of guy


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  34. #34

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    At this point I guess your not an ELDO type of guy
    I guess you're right!
    I've smelled them all and wore a couple, but I did not find the positive shocking surprise I was looking for.
    There are some nice ones, some smell too female for my likes, one smelled like a fragrance I already have(Éloge du Traître = Yatagan), and the rest did not escape from mediocrity. So I decided to spend my voucher on one of the nicer ones: Je Suis Un Homme.
    Thank you all for your nice and helpful contributions!
    Last edited by Trauerkraut; 20th June 2012 at 04:10 PM.

  35. #35

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I'm late to this thread, but would like to contribute my two cents:
    I also got the sample pack and decided on redeeming the voucher on Noël Au Balcon, a delicious Christmassy spice concoction à la Burberry London or Ambre Narguilé, with an added bonus of candle wax.
    Others I love: the ultra strange and alluring Charogne (floral cinnamon bubblegum with a hint of melting plastic), Fat Electrician (caramel-burnt vetiver) and Like This (orange-coloured sweetness).
    Haven't tried Fils de Dieu, which is indeed the one formerly known as Philippine Houseboy. Something tells me I may like this one, being crazy about Southeast Asian food as I am.
    Kurt smells like Teen Spirit

  36. #36

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    So I decided too spend my voucher on one of the nicer ones: Je Suis Un Homme.
    Thank you all for your nice and helpful contributions!
    Good choice! Enjoy it!!!


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  37. #37

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post
    I guess you're right!
    I've smelled them all and wore a couple, but I did not find the positive shocking surprise I was looking for.
    There are some nice ones, some smell too female for my likes, one smelled like a fragrance I already have(Éloge du Traître = Yatagan), and the rest did not escape from mediocrity. So I decided to spend my voucher on one of the nicer ones: Je Suis Un Homme.
    Thank you all for your nice and helpful contributions!
    Yep, I knew that's the one you'd choose.

  38. #38

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Kagey View Post
    Yep, I knew that's the one you'd choose.
    You were right! I hoped to find a potential 5 star surprise, but it did not seem to be there, so I took the one that suited me best.

  39. #39

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    ELdO fragrances are unusual. I'm ambivalent about the promo material. Not sure it helps.

    I think Alfarom is right, you either like the ELdO style or you don't. I guess that's true of all houses in a way but ELdO tend to be one of the more polarizing

  40. #40

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Alityke View Post
    ELdO fragrances are unusual. I'm ambivalent about the promo material. Not sure it helps.
    Well, stay tuned - apparently they're changing the promo material. The images are no longer on their website.

  41. #41

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Alityke View Post
    ELdO fragrances are unusual. I'm ambivalent about the promo material. Not sure it helps.
    I think Alfarom is right, you either like the ELdO style or you don't. I guess that's true of all houses in a way but ELdO tend to be one of the more polarizing
    ...I like the style! Unfortunately the product does not match it's design. When you start a new concept, you should do that all the way: Pop Art packaging, advertisement, marketing for Pop-Art product. ELdO sells 'normal' product. The only really different fragrance of ELdO is Sécrétions Magnifiques...the rest could be sold by any perfume house. Pity!

  42. #42

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Is SM that different really? Its a marine floral, lots of houses do marine florals, they just don't tell you they smell of bodily secretions

  43. #43

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Ali:

    have you ever smelled SM? If not, you can check the seveal threads on it. There are flowers somewhere in there, but you have to concentrate to smell them.

    But I agree with you that all marine florals are dreadful, even when they are not as exaggerated as SM. Even Le Labo Neroli, subtler than most, becomes unbearable to my nose in the drydown.

    cacio

  44. #44

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Alityke View Post
    Is SM that different really? Its a marine floral, lots of houses do marine florals, they just don't tell you they smell of bodily secretions
    Yes, it really is different - unlike any perfume I've smelled. And cacio's right about the flowers. To me, they smell like cartoon flowers.

  45. #45

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    There is nothing like Rien. Rien just rules:

  46. #46

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I'm in the exact same position as OP and am currently working my way through the samples. Tom of Finland, Eloge du Traitre, Je Suis une Homme and Fat Electrician are in the running so far and I'm sampling Rien now. I too have failed to hit on a five star mind-blower yet but there's still time to revisit a few more before I cash in my voucher.

    Oh and I too can vouch for the repugnance of Secretions Magnifique! Salt, metal and flowery semen. Not pleasant at all.

  47. #47

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    The Afternoon of a Faun and Malaise of the 70's (originally to be called Sex Pistols) are 2 new ones you may like.
    Rien is as hard as nails -- I admire it but don't wear.
    V&T is nice -- Bendelerious is fabulous and fun, but feminine -- I enjoyed wearing Je Suis un Homme.Rossy de Palma is one of the best 'roses' I know
    There are some very good fragrances in the line, but are easily dismissed, which in part is of their own making due to the gimmicky nature of the marketing.

  48. #48

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I really admire this line. I find several of their scents to be an actual pleasure to wear. Eloge du Traitre may be my favorite (and I do find it to have more interesting chypre-like topnotes than Yatagan and so actually easier to wear regularly) but I also really like Like This and Jasmine et Cigaratte. Eloge du Traitre layered with Rossy di Palma is maybe my favorite rose scent.
    '...And you'll carry me down on your dancing
    To the pools that you lift on your wrist...'

  49. #49

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Malaise of the 1970s is indeed also sold as Sex Pistols, and in the latter guise is available for £4.99 for 50ml EDP from The Fragrance Shop (UK chain). I own it, naturally.

  50. #50

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoodanny View Post
    Malaise of the 1970s is indeed also sold as Sex Pistols, and in the latter guise is available for £4.99 for 50ml EDP from The Fragrance Shop (UK chain).
    Say what?

  51. #51

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Jojo Lapin X View Post
    Say what?
    Yessir!

    http://www.thefragranceshop.co.uk/pr...ray-14197.aspx

  52. #52

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoodanny View Post
    I'm at a loss for words-- maybe it was pulled and revamped? You might have the equivalent of God Save the Queen on EMI. I'd hang on to it.

  53. #53

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I'm about a third of the way down my bottle. They still have it so I might just get another and leave it sealed. I sampled Malaise of the 1970's yesterday and as you might imagine, my eyes lit up when I sniffed a VERY familiar smell!

  54. #54
    Dependent OctaVariuM's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    I have to ask, what do you mean by voucher? I thought the coffrets were just either samples or 10mL bottles?

  55. #55

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Certain retailers offer the full set of 1.5ml samples of all 25 (as was) ELdO fragrances for £25, which includes a voucher for £25 off a full size bottle purchase. I got one for Christmas! It's not a cofret or a presentation box or anything, just a bag of individually bagged samples with a little fold-out info card in each one.

  56. #56

    Default Re: The Best of État Libre d'Orange

    Only have tried Sex Pistols (not good) and Rien (not bad but not for the price they're asking for a bottle).

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