Montale Patchouli Leaves
Any major hits and classics of niche that avoid super-subtle Creed type sophisticates (Floris and all of that bores me) but aren't off-putting Secretions Magnifiques either?
Perhaps it sounds a bit middlebrow, but I find those two extremes unwearable.
I've only been into fragrances for a whirlwind month of Piguet leading to vintage designer with a sideline into budget and current designer and now a very small peek into niche.
Favorites so far: Lutens Borneo 1834 and the idea of (and some of the execution) of the Malles, everything CDG.
Of particular interest is anything with patchouli, musk, violets, galbanum, tuberose, or many such often offensive notes used in very bold ways.
Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 29th June 2012 at 05:44 AM.
Montale Patchouli Leaves
+1 Montale Patchouli Leaves
Bois 1920 Real Pachouly
Did you try Carnal Flower? It contains the highest % of tuberose in any fragrance.
+1 for Carnal Flower, & for a *really* bold tuberose, did you try Fracas?
"What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.
Ah yes teardrop, I adore Fracas: a perfect standalone art object, portrait of tuberose. On me, not quite as fitting as Bandit, so it can't quite be my signature. Lucky those ladies for whom it can be.
And thanks all, reading reviews of these, they sound lovely suggestions.
Trying ASAP: Montale Patchouli Leaves, Carnal Flower, and Coromandel.
Have you actually worked your way through the entire range of Lutens, CDG and Malle's?
Worth doing if you haven't.
Others I've enjoyed so far are Histoire de Parfums and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.
Oh no laph, I'm a total niche newb. I've smelled a lot of the in-production CDGs in store and own only two, same in-store experience with Lutens save the Borneo 1834 I have. Malles are a slow one-by-one send-off, so far totaling two. Can't wait to get through them all, but I'll pace myself ($ requires).
It has been asked a lot, but with those three specific houses in mind and some of the others mentioned here, is Luckyscents, TPC, or something else the best bet for sampling?
Parfum d'Empire is a line worth exploring. Special mention to Azemour Les Orangers, a modern chypre, salty, citrusy and full of oakmoss. Fougere Bengale, with notes of lavender, hay, tea, tarragon, patchouli, geranium and tobacco; I smell lots of patchouli and curried heliotrope, fantastically original but sample first, the reviews are very divisive.
Patchouli - Intrigant Patchouli Parfumerie Generale - outstanding patchouli/civet/amber composition
Musck - Commando Smell Bent - beautiful slightly fecal animalic musk paired with a sweet tonka
Musc Maori Parfumerie Generale - cocoa, milky gourmand - slightly off, with a bizarre animalic musk underneath
Violet - Dans Tes Bras Frederic Malle - salty skin and a soggy, metallic violet, lovely!
Stephen Jones Comme des Garcons - futuristic violet overloaded with aldehydes and a mineral note
Tuberose - Tubereuse Criminelle Serge Lutens - camphorous opening - beautiful non-tropical tuberose - clean and powerful
They are my choices
I'd recommend Parfumerie Generale as well. They have two patchouli-centered fragrances one being Intrigant Patchouli (more classic with a remarkable animalic facet) and the other being Cozè which is a woody patchouli with bizarre dirty-gorumandic twists...
Here are a few more suggestions on where to start...
Galbanum: Papyrus De Ciane
Musk: S-ex, Muscs Koublai Khan
Violets: Cuir Pleine Fleur
Tbereuse: Tubereuse Criminelle
Offensive Notes: Lisa Kirk Revolution
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Many great suggestions already.
Piguet, or better perfumer Cellier, is among my very top, especially Bandit (have you tried the cream and shower gel? that is one bath line true to the perfume).
To the many tuberose suggestions I would add $$$$ JAR Eclair/Bolt of Lightning. And since you like Bandit, how about exploring some other niche leathers? For instance, ELdO Rien, a superbitter, musky leather (in small doses, please). I like both, and I like Knize Ten a lot too.
If my collection jumped up and ran away, some of the niches that I would promptly replace would be Parfumerie Generale L'Eau Rare Matale (tea and water and burned wood), Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale (tapdancing ginger-flavored sparklers), L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two (tea and a mixed box of really good baked goods) and Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere (a coconut-flavored woolly blanket.) I think that all qualify as different but not off-putting.
Noir Patchouli by Histoire de Parfums - Upon application, one is treated to a forceful rush of a patchouli accord. The earthy and herbaceous splendor of patchouli is married with the the warm, subtle nuttiness of coriander as well as the somewhat woody sweetness and spiciness of cardamon. This strong opening percolates a bit before drifting to the heart. Here, in the middle, the musky earthiness of patchouli definitely tones down, and is encircled with a floral accord, bringing nuances of sweet rose, spicy jasmine and sweetly fragrant lily to mind. A lively and woody black pepper erupts almost like an incense, while the lightly terpenic and pine-like aspects of jupiter berries present for recognition. A nascent undertone of raw leather carries the brew to the waiting base. Here, the balsamic, grassy and woody patchouli partners with the rawness of the leather, which has come into its own and vies for supremacy. A green and slightly smoky earthiness from vetiver infuses the dual, while a white musk imparts a faintly soapy and powdery feel. And, vanilla, with its aromatic, woody sweetness, wafts about. A comforting drydown ensues. Far from being a dark composition, this well-constructed fragrance is nuanced enough to carry its rather commonplace ingredients and stand above others in its genre. Being a unisex scent, it has average projection and longevity.
You're all such delightful pushermen/women. Much better than the recs from Malle's online survey.
forfreddie everything you suggested is exactly what I wanted but never knew I did! Smell Bent's style is certainly refreshingly free of the usual fragrance faux aristocracy. I'll try Commando and the Pacific Northwest-related line, which is a great idea for incorporating less delicate scents into contemporary perfumery; I just moved away from Seattle and miss its earthy, unpretty but amazing natural smells. Rain, dirt, hippies, coffee, weed, killer black mold, rust, non-"aquatics" ocean, volcanoes...
chickenfreak: excellent way of conceptualizing what's essential. I like the way you relate to scents imagistically/mutli-sensorially. (Descriptions like that really appeal to me as an actual synesthete, though unfortunately I'm not synesthetic with scent but music/color/texture.). I see you're also a Pac NWer, so the cozy blankets thing makes sense.
cacio I'm currently working on sampling Cellier's lesser-knowns, too. Her work sets the bar for every scent I test. If niche can ever come close to her, then count me a convert.
Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 1st July 2012 at 12:34 AM.