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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Recommendations for Essential Niche?


    Any major hits and classics of niche that avoid super-subtle Creed type sophisticates (Floris and all of that bores me) but aren't off-putting Secretions Magnifiques either?


    Perhaps it sounds a bit middlebrow, but I find those two extremes unwearable.

    I've only been into fragrances for a whirlwind month of Piguet leading to vintage designer with a sideline into budget and current designer and now a very small peek into niche.

    Favorites so far: Lutens Borneo 1834 and the idea of (and some of the execution) of the Malles, everything CDG.

    Of particular interest is anything with patchouli, musk, violets, galbanum, tuberose, or many such often offensive notes used in very bold ways.
    Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 29th June 2012 at 04:44 AM.

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Micallef Patchouli
    Montale Patchouli Leaves

  3. #3

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    +1 Montale Patchouli Leaves
    Bois 1920 Real Pachouly
    Chanel Coromandel

    Did you try Carnal Flower? It contains the highest % of tuberose in any fragrance.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    +1 for Carnal Flower, & for a *really* bold tuberose, did you try Fracas?
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Ah yes teardrop, I adore Fracas: a perfect standalone art object, portrait of tuberose. On me, not quite as fitting as Bandit, so it can't quite be my signature. Lucky those ladies for whom it can be.

    And thanks all, reading reviews of these, they sound lovely suggestions.

    Trying ASAP: Montale Patchouli Leaves, Carnal Flower, and Coromandel.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Coromandel is a posh version of Borneo 1834. Have and love both.
    For tuberose, carnal flower, tubuerose criminelle are very good.
    Violet I'd try Cuir Ameythyste and the Prada pure Parfum Violet.

    for swap/sale:





  7. #7

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Have you actually worked your way through the entire range of Lutens, CDG and Malle's?
    Worth doing if you haven't.
    Others I've enjoyed so far are Histoire de Parfums and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.

  8. #8
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Oh no laph, I'm a total niche newb. I've smelled a lot of the in-production CDGs in store and own only two, same in-store experience with Lutens save the Borneo 1834 I have. Malles are a slow one-by-one send-off, so far totaling two. Can't wait to get through them all, but I'll pace myself ($ requires).

    It has been asked a lot, but with those three specific houses in mind and some of the others mentioned here, is Luckyscents, TPC, or something else the best bet for sampling?

  9. #9

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Parfum d'Empire is a line worth exploring. Special mention to Azemour Les Orangers, a modern chypre, salty, citrusy and full of oakmoss. Fougere Bengale, with notes of lavender, hay, tea, tarragon, patchouli, geranium and tobacco; I smell lots of patchouli and curried heliotrope, fantastically original but sample first, the reviews are very divisive.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Patchouli - Intrigant Patchouli Parfumerie Generale - outstanding patchouli/civet/amber composition

    Musck - Commando Smell Bent - beautiful slightly fecal animalic musk paired with a sweet tonka
    Musc Maori Parfumerie Generale - cocoa, milky gourmand - slightly off, with a bizarre animalic musk underneath

    Violet - Dans Tes Bras Frederic Malle - salty skin and a soggy, metallic violet, lovely!
    Stephen Jones Comme des Garcons - futuristic violet overloaded with aldehydes and a mineral note

    Tuberose - Tubereuse Criminelle Serge Lutens - camphorous opening - beautiful non-tropical tuberose - clean and powerful

    They are my choices

  11. #11

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by laph View Post
    Have you actually worked your way through the entire range of Lutens, CDG and Malle's?
    Worth doing if you haven't.
    Others I've enjoyed so far are Histoire de Parfums and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier.
    A-G-R-E-E

    I'd recommend Parfumerie Generale as well. They have two patchouli-centered fragrances one being Intrigant Patchouli (more classic with a remarkable animalic facet) and the other being Cozè which is a woody patchouli with bizarre dirty-gorumandic twists...

    Here are a few more suggestions on where to start...

    Galbanum: Papyrus De Ciane
    Musk: S-ex, Muscs Koublai Khan
    Violets: Cuir Pleine Fleur
    Tbereuse: Tubereuse Criminelle
    Offensive Notes: Lisa Kirk Revolution


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  12. #12

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Many great suggestions already.

    Piguet, or better perfumer Cellier, is among my very top, especially Bandit (have you tried the cream and shower gel? that is one bath line true to the perfume).

    To the many tuberose suggestions I would add $$$$ JAR Eclair/Bolt of Lightning. And since you like Bandit, how about exploring some other niche leathers? For instance, ELdO Rien, a superbitter, musky leather (in small doses, please). I like both, and I like Knize Ten a lot too.

    cacio

  13. #13

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire View Post
    It has been asked a lot, but with those three specific houses in mind and some of the others mentioned here, is Luckyscents, TPC, or something else the best bet for sampling?
    They are good. Also check out First In Fragrance, The Perfume Shoppe, The Posh Peasant and Surrender to Chance.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    If my collection jumped up and ran away, some of the niches that I would promptly replace would be Parfumerie Generale L'Eau Rare Matale (tea and water and burned wood), Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale (tapdancing ginger-flavored sparklers), L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two (tea and a mixed box of really good baked goods) and Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere (a coconut-flavored woolly blanket.) I think that all qualify as different but not off-putting.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    Try:

    Noir Patchouli by Histoire de Parfums - Upon application, one is treated to a forceful rush of a patchouli accord. The earthy and herbaceous splendor of patchouli is married with the the warm, subtle nuttiness of coriander as well as the somewhat woody sweetness and spiciness of cardamon. This strong opening percolates a bit before drifting to the heart. Here, in the middle, the musky earthiness of patchouli definitely tones down, and is encircled with a floral accord, bringing nuances of sweet rose, spicy jasmine and sweetly fragrant lily to mind. A lively and woody black pepper erupts almost like an incense, while the lightly terpenic and pine-like aspects of jupiter berries present for recognition. A nascent undertone of raw leather carries the brew to the waiting base. Here, the balsamic, grassy and woody patchouli partners with the rawness of the leather, which has come into its own and vies for supremacy. A green and slightly smoky earthiness from vetiver infuses the dual, while a white musk imparts a faintly soapy and powdery feel. And, vanilla, with its aromatic, woody sweetness, wafts about. A comforting drydown ensues. Far from being a dark composition, this well-constructed fragrance is nuanced enough to carry its rather commonplace ingredients and stand above others in its genre. Being a unisex scent, it has average projection and longevity.

  16. #16
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Recommendations for Essential Niche?

    You're all such delightful pushermen/women. Much better than the recs from Malle's online survey.

    forfreddie everything you suggested is exactly what I wanted but never knew I did! Smell Bent's style is certainly refreshingly free of the usual fragrance faux aristocracy. I'll try Commando and the Pacific Northwest-related line, which is a great idea for incorporating less delicate scents into contemporary perfumery; I just moved away from Seattle and miss its earthy, unpretty but amazing natural smells. Rain, dirt, hippies, coffee, weed, killer black mold, rust, non-"aquatics" ocean, volcanoes...

    chickenfreak: excellent way of conceptualizing what's essential. I like the way you relate to scents imagistically/mutli-sensorially. (Descriptions like that really appeal to me as an actual synesthete, though unfortunately I'm not synesthetic with scent but music/color/texture.). I see you're also a Pac NWer, so the cozy blankets thing makes sense.

    cacio I'm currently working on sampling Cellier's lesser-knowns, too. Her work sets the bar for every scent I test. If niche can ever come close to her, then count me a convert.
    Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 30th June 2012 at 11:34 PM.

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