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  1. #61

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    The two are noting alike. Different scents entirely.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nizan View Post
    If the dry down is similar to Egoiste Platinum I could try to wear it an see if I can recognize anything..
    Madhat Scents - My personal limited run artisan perfume project. Jour et la Nuit (17/18th Century Style Chypre - Oakmoss/Resins/Musk/Vintage Civet Tincture.) / Bespoke 8.30.14 - ONLY 4 LEFT! (Apple, Cavendish Pipe Tobacco, Vanilla, Smoke, Woods & Resin.)

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  2. #62

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    A newbie curiosity: and what about a Sandalwood base only made of different kinds of sandalwood? I mean, the mysore one, australian, amyris.
    I saw this Sandalwood blend and it reminded me of your question. Has anyone tried a similar blend?

    http://www.bathbodysupply.com/product-p/es1900.htm
    Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 03:01 AM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by Pears View Post
    I saw this Sandalwood blend and it reminded me of your question. Has anyone tried a similar blend?

    http://www.bathbodysupply.com/product-p/es1900.htm
    A blend of sandalwood oils of different origins including East Indian Sandalwood, West Indian Sandalwood, Indonesian Sandalwood, Australian Sandalwood and African Sandalwood. With the rising costs of Indian Sandalwood this blend is ideal for soaps and will provide better performance in the finished product with considerably stronger odor than Sandalwood alone. Many soap makers have told us that they like the odor of this blend even better than straight Indian sandalwood which is about 4 times the price!

    Blend Contains: Essential oils and other natural aromatics only, no carriers.

    ...
    Notes: This product is formulated natural oils including, but not limited to, the essential oils mentioned in the description.

    Reading their description, I strongly suspect they are using the word Ďnaturalí in its broadest sense - i.e. to mean anything that exists on the planet (the quote, including grammatical errors is theirs, the emphasis is mine).
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  4. #64

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Well spotted, Chris. It was 3:30 in the morning so I didn't look too carefully at the details. There are some other companies that appear to sell the same blend but one of them describes it as "A 100% all essential oil blend". It could be a different blend but it lists the same Sandalwoods and in the same order. Perhaps they've just got their facts wrong and meant to imply that it contained no carrier oils.

    http://www.ozarkherbals.com/eosandalwoodblend.html
    http://nandaoils.com/sabl.html
    Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 12:24 PM.

  5. #65

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by Pears View Post
    Well spotted, Chris. It was 3:30 in the morning so I didn't look too carefully at the details. There are some other companies that appear to sell the same blend but one of them describes it as "A 100% all essential oil blend". It could be a different blend but it lists the same Sandalwoods and in the same order. Perhaps they've just got their facts wrong and meant to imply that it contained no carrier oils.

    http://www.ozarkherbals.com/eosandalwoodblend.html
    http://nandaoils.com/sabl.html
    It looks very much as though they are all copying the text from the same wholesalers catalogue doesnít it?

    Even if it is true that this is an all-natural blend, which as I say Iím suspicious of, this still looks like very dodgy marketing to me. After all neither African (probably Baphia nitida) nor West Indian (Amyris balsamifera) Sandalwoods are really sandalwoods at all and not a single correct botanical name is given.

    It would be interesting to see a GCMS of this oil: my bet is youíd find a lot of Sandela and Santaliff in it, but of course I donít know that without doing the test.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  6. #66

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I had been intending to try a blend of the various versions of the currently available Sandalwood that I have and finally got around to mixing them today. Despite having provided no time for them to mature with one another, the odor right off does in fact smooth out most of the various rough spots in the individual oils. The blend is the closest thing to the small amount of genuine Mysore that I recently decided I best resist the temptation to use, and just keep for reference. I added no aromatics of any kind, other than equal amounts of seven different versions of products sold as Sandalwood Oil, collectively from Liberty, WLA, Eden and AncientWays., and some FCO to check if there might be any solubility issues with that.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by islearom View Post
    I had been intending to try a blend of the various versions of the currently available Sandalwood that I have and finally got around to mixing them today. Despite having provided no time for them to mature with one another, the odor right off does in fact smooth out most of the various rough spots in the individual oils. The blend is the closest thing to the small amount of genuine Mysore that I recently decided I best resist the temptation to use, and just keep for reference. I added no aromatics of any kind, other than equal amounts of seven different versions of products sold as Sandalwood Oil, collectively from Liberty, WLA, Eden and AncientWays., and some FCO to check if there might be any solubility issues with that.
    Good one - I bet that will improve further with a bit of ageing too - and it should perform well in a fine fragrance context, though you will need to test carefully for the fixative as well as olfactory impact.

    What it wonít do though is "provide better performance in the finished product with considerably stronger odor than Sandalwood aloneĒ - thatís what makes me think those commercial ones have something else in them. Nothing wrong with that either of course - a blend of both naturals and synthetics is what Iíve done myself - I just object to then pretending itís all-natural in order to fleece the uninformed.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  8. #68

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    You could be right, Chris. Transparency is the important issue here, especially for those who only wish to use naturals. It can't be too difficult to buy the oils separately and make your own and atleast you'll then know what's in it.
    Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 03:21 PM.

  9. #69

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Chris, I couldn't agree more with your objection to something being sold under the pretense of it being anything other than what it is said (or implied) to be. That the outcome of my blending experiment have a stronger odor than Sandalwood alone is not a concern for my purposes, but the fixative and olfactoral impact are important considerations to me, so, time will tell.
    Last edited by islearom; 8th April 2014 at 01:28 PM.

  10. #70

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I received samples of Sandela, Sandalore and Ebanol the other day. The Sandela seems to be the most reminiscent of Indian Sandalwood, atleast in my opinion. The Sandalore and Ebanol have a Date or Maple-like aspect, which could be useful in moderation but I'd imagine that Sandela would be more suitable to use as the main component. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. There seem to be two different compounds called Sandela. I have the former of these, below.

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1006491.html
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1024511.html
    Last edited by Pears; 14th April 2014 at 01:26 AM.

  11. #71

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I recently found a way to overcome this question of adulteration when buying in small quantities which usually necessitate being situated at the end of a long chain of suppliers, middlemen. Australian grown S.album is now available direct from the distiller. This was covered a while back by another poster here in basenotes, but to those who might find this of interest and have missed that post.

    I just received some, and it is about as close to the old style (though not matured) as I have been able to find without doing blends (though, the blends it seems will be more economical). Also, Sandalwood from Indonesia is available and a small amount that I have from one source is quite nice. I have some sandalwood ordered with WLA who advises me that it is very nice. The Sri Lanka that I purchase from WLA just recently recently, went out of stock with WLA only about two or three weeks after I had received the small amout that I did. When I inquired of Chris at WLA if it might be available again soon, he advised me that Sri Lanka had now placed an embargo on the material. And then he got in the Indonesian, though I wonder for how long that will be as I understand that Indonesia had an embargo on it in the past and it was recently removed (for the time being I suppose).

    Anyway, back to the Australian grown S.album, the link is http://www.mtromance.com.au/shop/det...wood-oil-bulk/ The safest bet I guess for the purchase in small amounts directly from the distiller. Not cheap, and no substantial discounts to speak of for buying in bulk...but for those who are curious, it is worth checking out this S.album that can be obtained with the knowledge that it really, truly, is not adulterated. And then, for the sake of price, go back to using the New Caledonia E.O. in formulations.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by Pears View Post
    I received samples of Sandela, Sandalore and Ebanol the other day. The Sandela seems to be the most reminiscent of Indian Sandalwood, atleast in my opinion. The Sandalore and Ebanol have a Date or Maple-like aspect, which could be useful in moderation but I'd imagine that Sandela would be more suitable to use as the main component. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. There seem to be two different compounds called Sandela. I have the former of these, below.

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1006491.html
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1024511.html
    To me, Sandela is a very mild scent, but I gather many people perceive it as quite strongly sandalwood. As with musks, these big sandalwood molecules are quite difficult to get a uniform response to. One more reason to use a blend of them.

    If you've not yet tried Sandalore I'd recommend it: to me it's the closest single molecule, though still not up to best natural, it's a pretty good base from which to build a substitute.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  13. #73

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Quote Originally Posted by ariodant View Post
    curious why both recipe use bacdanol, not sandalmysore or santaliff, which are more widely available.
    Bacdanol smells great and arguably doesn't need any rounding. I'm a Bacdanol man now. However, if you want something that packs a lot of punch, you'll need to go with the other molecules.

  14. #74

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Thought someone might be interested in this from reference files.

    Sandalwood substitute formula:

    1.timberol – 6.83% w/w
    2. bacdanol -19.7%
    3. sandal mysore core – 19.43
    4. ebanol – 5.92
    5. polysantol – 2.09
    6. sandalore -6.29
    7. javanol – 2.11
    8. osyrol-afc -1.28
    9. yara yara -0.03
    10. galaxolide 50 in bb – 0.38
    11. rose oxide – 0.08
    12. kephalis – 0.20
    13. norlimbanol – 1.29
    14. aceto ketal – 0.44
    15. camphfleur – 3.32
    16. vetikol – 0.41
    17.camek – 4.22
    18. cedranol – 1.12
    19. undecavertol 10% in dpg – 0.05
    20. dep – 10.37
    21. icch – 2.74
    22. alpha-ionol – 1.09
    23.kohinool – 0.09
    24. iso-e-super – 5.98
    25. vetikone -0.18
    26. dihydro beta ionone -2.31
    27. gamma methyl ionone – 0.67
    28. carryophyllene acetate – 1.25
    29.cinnamic alcohol – 0.11
    30.anisic acetate -0.01
    31.cuminic aldehyde – 0.11
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 24th July 2014 at 08:06 AM.

  15. #75

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I use a formula based on the perfumers apprentice sandalwood accord, but less javanol

    Methyl Laitone 10% - 2
    Ebanol - 100
    Sandela - 120
    Javanol - 180
    Coniferan - 10
    Bicyclononlactone - 3
    Vertofix - 25
    Iso Eugenol - 3

    I like the hint of spice that the iso eugenol adds

  16. #76

    Default Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Wow.. Can you smell anything but Javanol and a bit of Ebanol in this?

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