Thread: Sandalwood Attempts
Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 03:01 AM.
A blend of sandalwood oils of different origins including East Indian Sandalwood, West Indian Sandalwood, Indonesian Sandalwood, Australian Sandalwood and African Sandalwood. With the rising costs of Indian Sandalwood this blend is ideal for soaps and will provide better performance in the finished product with considerably stronger odor than Sandalwood alone. Many soap makers have told us that they like the odor of this blend even better than straight Indian sandalwood which is about 4 times the price!
Blend Contains: Essential oils and other natural aromatics only, no carriers.
Notes: This product is formulated natural oils including, but not limited to, the essential oils mentioned in the description.
Reading their description, I strongly suspect they are using the word Ďnaturalí in its broadest sense - i.e. to mean anything that exists on the planet (the quote, including grammatical errors is theirs, the emphasis is mine).
Well spotted, Chris. It was 3:30 in the morning so I didn't look too carefully at the details. There are some other companies that appear to sell the same blend but one of them describes it as "A 100% all essential oil blend". It could be a different blend but it lists the same Sandalwoods and in the same order. Perhaps they've just got their facts wrong and meant to imply that it contained no carrier oils.
Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 12:24 PM.
Even if it is true that this is an all-natural blend, which as I say Iím suspicious of, this still looks like very dodgy marketing to me. After all neither African (probably Baphia nitida) nor West Indian (Amyris balsamifera) Sandalwoods are really sandalwoods at all and not a single correct botanical name is given.
It would be interesting to see a GCMS of this oil: my bet is youíd find a lot of Sandela and Santaliff in it, but of course I donít know that without doing the test.
I had been intending to try a blend of the various versions of the currently available Sandalwood that I have and finally got around to mixing them today. Despite having provided no time for them to mature with one another, the odor right off does in fact smooth out most of the various rough spots in the individual oils. The blend is the closest thing to the small amount of genuine Mysore that I recently decided I best resist the temptation to use, and just keep for reference. I added no aromatics of any kind, other than equal amounts of seven different versions of products sold as Sandalwood Oil, collectively from Liberty, WLA, Eden and AncientWays., and some FCO to check if there might be any solubility issues with that.
What it wonít do though is "provide better performance in the finished product with considerably stronger odor than Sandalwood aloneĒ - thatís what makes me think those commercial ones have something else in them. Nothing wrong with that either of course - a blend of both naturals and synthetics is what Iíve done myself - I just object to then pretending itís all-natural in order to fleece the uninformed.
You could be right, Chris. Transparency is the important issue here, especially for those who only wish to use naturals. It can't be too difficult to buy the oils separately and make your own and atleast you'll then know what's in it.
Last edited by Pears; 8th April 2014 at 03:21 PM.
Chris, I couldn't agree more with your objection to something being sold under the pretense of it being anything other than what it is said (or implied) to be. That the outcome of my blending experiment have a stronger odor than Sandalwood alone is not a concern for my purposes, but the fixative and olfactoral impact are important considerations to me, so, time will tell.
Last edited by islearom; 8th April 2014 at 01:28 PM.
I received samples of Sandela, Sandalore and Ebanol the other day. The Sandela seems to be the most reminiscent of Indian Sandalwood, atleast in my opinion. The Sandalore and Ebanol have a Date or Maple-like aspect, which could be useful in moderation but I'd imagine that Sandela would be more suitable to use as the main component. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. There seem to be two different compounds called Sandela. I have the former of these, below.
Last edited by Pears; 14th April 2014 at 01:26 AM.
I recently found a way to overcome this question of adulteration when buying in small quantities which usually necessitate being situated at the end of a long chain of suppliers, middlemen. Australian grown S.album is now available direct from the distiller. This was covered a while back by another poster here in basenotes, but to those who might find this of interest and have missed that post.
I just received some, and it is about as close to the old style (though not matured) as I have been able to find without doing blends (though, the blends it seems will be more economical). Also, Sandalwood from Indonesia is available and a small amount that I have from one source is quite nice. I have some sandalwood ordered with WLA who advises me that it is very nice. The Sri Lanka that I purchase from WLA just recently recently, went out of stock with WLA only about two or three weeks after I had received the small amout that I did. When I inquired of Chris at WLA if it might be available again soon, he advised me that Sri Lanka had now placed an embargo on the material. And then he got in the Indonesian, though I wonder for how long that will be as I understand that Indonesia had an embargo on it in the past and it was recently removed (for the time being I suppose).
Anyway, back to the Australian grown S.album, the link is http://www.mtromance.com.au/shop/det...wood-oil-bulk/ The safest bet I guess for the purchase in small amounts directly from the distiller. Not cheap, and no substantial discounts to speak of for buying in bulk...but for those who are curious, it is worth checking out this S.album that can be obtained with the knowledge that it really, truly, is not adulterated. And then, for the sake of price, go back to using the New Caledonia E.O. in formulations.
If you've not yet tried Sandalore I'd recommend it: to me it's the closest single molecule, though still not up to best natural, it's a pretty good base from which to build a substitute.
Thought someone might be interested in this from reference files.
Sandalwood substitute formula:
1.timberol – 6.83% w/w
2. bacdanol -19.7%
3. sandal mysore core – 19.43
4. ebanol – 5.92
5. polysantol – 2.09
6. sandalore -6.29
7. javanol – 2.11
8. osyrol-afc -1.28
9. yara yara -0.03
10. galaxolide 50 in bb – 0.38
11. rose oxide – 0.08
12. kephalis – 0.20
13. norlimbanol – 1.29
14. aceto ketal – 0.44
15. camphfleur – 3.32
16. vetikol – 0.41
17.camek – 4.22
18. cedranol – 1.12
19. undecavertol 10% in dpg – 0.05
20. dep – 10.37
21. icch – 2.74
22. alpha-ionol – 1.09
23.kohinool – 0.09
24. iso-e-super – 5.98
25. vetikone -0.18
26. dihydro beta ionone -2.31
27. gamma methyl ionone – 0.67
28. carryophyllene acetate – 1.25
29.cinnamic alcohol – 0.11
30.anisic acetate -0.01
31.cuminic aldehyde – 0.11
Last edited by DrSmellThis; 24th July 2014 at 08:06 AM.
I use a formula based on the perfumers apprentice sandalwood accord, but less javanol
Methyl Laitone 10% - 2
Ebanol - 100
Sandela - 120
Javanol - 180
Coniferan - 10
Bicyclononlactone - 3
Vertofix - 25
Iso Eugenol - 3
I like the hint of spice that the iso eugenol adds
Wow.. Can you smell anything but Javanol and a bit of Ebanol in this?