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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    What are your favorite vintage or discontinued scents that contain patchouli, sandalwood, and/or incense (or other "headshop"/oriental type smells)?

    What fragrances are considered the reference, the best, or the original designer scent to prominently feature each note?

    Classics that don't necessarily spotlight these notes but use them to beautiful effect are also of interest, like Rochas Femme, Fidji, Shalimar, Diorella.
    Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 5th July 2012 at 08:38 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    aromatics elixer, tabu.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Mysore sandalwood has been overharvested and is now unavailable, so here one will have indeed to go into vintage. Having started only recently, I am not sure what the references are (there was a thread one of these days on Floris sandalwood).

    Patchouli and incenses are still available and are among the few natural substances that have so far escaped IFRA's edicts, so I don't think one has to look into vintage. If any, they have become more prominent in recent years. Hard to choose. I'd say Aromatics Elixir for patch.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Oh cacio, I only asked because the scent being vintage is of particular interest, so I wondered if patchouli and incense might have been used a bit differently in older scents, as patch is usually used as a counterpoint to intense sweetness today, etc.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    So 70s-80s bold, non-sweet oriental and/or chypre powerhouses seem to be what you're looking for...is that right? Most of these have all three of the notes you're looking for and more, but I'd say they're a particularly patch prominent bunch -

    Aromatics Elixir, again
    Halston
    Must de Cartier
    La Perla
    Deneuve
    YSL Opium
    CK Obsession
    Ungaro Diva
    Gucci No3
    L'Arte di Gucci
    Paloma Picasso
    Joop! Femme
    Reminiscence Patchouli
    and of course Samsara for prominent, gorgeous, creamy sandalwood.

    Some of these are actually still available, but the original/vintage formulations are definitely worth seeking out.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Thanks Evangeline and everyone. I guess powerhouse is what I had in mind, but I'm also merely curious as to what heady vintage scents are still relevant and wearable today (though not in production). Though Aromatics Elixir and Youth Dew are still in production, they seem to actually fit the description best.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Maybe I misunderstood you, but I only recommend fragrances I find wearable and relevant ...although I'm sure many would (and do) find them dated, most of them are still part of my regular rotation.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  8. #8

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Was there an Aromatics Elixir oil and perfume? Or just the perfume? But ya, that's my answer, AE, lol.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Oh yes, Evangeline, all of your list fits the bill of wearable. Lots of my favorites there, too.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    I can't believe nobody has thus far pointed to the, ahem, *very* obvious:

    GIVENCHY GENTLEMAN

    This is/was the *quintessential* patchouli/mysore sandalwood comp, magnificent in all facets: Probably one of the finest men's scents in the world. In order to recognize the vintage, the box is black and white with a silver stripe, not black: If it's black & white with a black stripe, it's not *truly* vintage. To me, this, and of course BAL A VERSAILLES are the two most exquisite scents I have ever smelled making use of these notes: BAV is very tricky, though--the "right" vintage must be scored, in the *right* strength. Patchouli and sandal wood, while VERY densely dosed, the both, are less evident in BAV as it has a kind of "Caronesque" complexity about it--thankfully--it smells nothing like a Caron, but it contains almost 500 essences and so it is a very complicated accord indeed. Most people find it *very* musky, which it is, containing 5 natural musks in the appropriate vintage. I adore and use both of these scents. Thankfully, I have enough vintage on hand to last me to the end of time. Both are true Masterpieces of French Perfumery. Unfortunately, though, both are still made--yet what is in the bottles is *NOTHING* (!!!!!!!) like what is meant to be: Witness--I would *never* wear either in their current formulations, so radically different are they.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    *** Merci, MdM. <3 ***

    Ah how could I forget that I had what I was looking for all along?: vintage Bal a Versailles, in parfum, edt, cologne--I love it all!

    I nicked a measly miniature vintage Givenchy Gentleman in the Greek-style packaging from the cabinet of my chic but understated commie grandfather. He was too understated to have ever worn it, and too practical to trifle with a miniature fragrance... wonder where the Eau Sauvage-only man got it? I can't quite decide if GG is a suitable feminine for this femme. Accessing a not so ridiculously rationed bottle ASAP may tell.

    And to anyone who might read this rather dead thread: who among you has tried vintage plain sandalwood, patchouli, or frankincense oils? I know the old sandalwood is a hot commodity, but do hippie-era patchoulis and frankincense keep well, and what defunct brands or sources were best? Any tips?

  12. #12

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    By far the best Patchouli "soliflore" I know of is Molinard's "Patchouli." I am wearing it now--it is perfectly delightful. Very high quality indeed for such an inexpensive comp: Much can be said for anything coming from Molinard, though. I am *RAGING* in love with their reformulated version of HABANITA--I repeat--head over heels, gaga, jumping up and down on the divan tom cruise style in love with this new "Eau de Parfum," which is by my estimation the only reform I have ever witnessed that quite literally left the original, which all of you will admit is "not just any original," in its dust, truly: It is dryer, and about one million times more wearable. On the Molinard Menu I also recommend: "Vanille-Patchouli" (or is it "Patchouli-Vanille"?), "Ambre," and the very weird but effective "Musc," which has the most bizarre flight I have ever smelled save for Jean Patou Moment Supreme's "Elmer's Glue Paste" one. Thankfully, it lasts but a minute, during which it smells *exactly* like dish soap, but after which boils down to *the perfect* pillow upon which to spritz anything. I'm not sure I would ever wear it alone. When Molinard says "Musc," they mean MUSK: none of this rosey-jasmine nonsense. This is eyebrow raising *very clean* male armpit in a bottle. Their "Vanille" on the other hand, I found so "patisserie" that I almost gagged. Their "Lavande," not really all that impressive. However: If you spray 1. "Musc" 2. "Patchouli-Vanille" then 3. "Lavande" one atop the other you end up with a dead ringer for.....Mouchoir de Monsieur! When you tally up the $70.00US +/- it costs to get all three, in their giant, gorgeous thick crystal bottles, each containing I think over 120ml, perhaps 160ml, and compare it to the $365.00US it takes for 120ml of pre-wasser Mouchoir, the fact that with the Molinard Mix you get all day sillage and tenacity that won't stop, needing no re-application, makes the added "work" to apply almost worth it!
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  13. #13

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    The one and only L'Artisan Parfumeur original Patchouli. A simple earthy patchouli with grapefruit but just perfect.
    DONNA

  14. #14

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    And to anyone who might read this rather dead thread: who among you has tried vintage plain sandalwood, patchouli, or frankincense oils? I know the old sandalwood is a hot commodity, but do hippie-era patchoulis and frankincense keep well, and what defunct brands or sources were best? Any tips?
    If hippy era oils are what you may like to smell, then vintage Auric Blends do a pretty good job of evoking time gone by. I can nearly smell the afghan coats. Real hippy era Patchoulies keep beautifully. A mellow and ancient one is a highly prized item. I know because my 38 year old 5ml mini patchouli oil is one of the jewels in my collection. All the harsher edges have gone and just a smooth velvet patchouli is left. I haven't tried a truly vintage Frankincense oil. I don't remember it being a favourite type at the time. We were all into Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Opium, Marijuana and Amber oils then. You don't hear much about opium as a perfume ingredient any more.... It was lovely.

    Hindsight is a wonderful thing... we all dripped in Mysore at the time. It was a common oil and probably discarded when we grew out of it... I remember many sticky bottles of it lurking around. I don't have them anymore. I ought to have a good hunt in my parents loft really. There is a whisper of a remote chance one still exists... I wish!

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    MdM- You have magically answered another of my erstwhile cliffhanger Novice Begs for Advice threads (on what to get from Molinard). Bravo--you're a ... no, the ... BN treasure. And to have a dyed-in-the-wool intimate of the great Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur reveal a secret approach to trying a daily deconstructed version?! Love the idea of adding each layer at different leisure/strengths. Ablutions! Such a pleasure.

    NB to any US (and maybe the rest of the world) Molinard fans: I don't know if this is already common knowledge, but Amazon has one of every Molinard senteurs and orientaux series, complete with box and lid, for very low bulk-buy-worthy price of admission and prime eligible ship.

    And so I shall stock up on Patchouli-Vanille, Muguet, Musc, Lavande, and the non-Angel-clone version of Nirmala.
    Is this Nirmala any good? I can't have even numbers on display--no OCD here, promise. Only mania like any other perfumista ...

    donna255 - will try, thanks.

    So far, current headshop scents seem to be most luxuriously yet palatably presented in the more established niche houses (is that an oxymoron?). While I love vintage designer and the silly glitz of current designer, superrich hippie accords are usually buried under a fruit cart now or of the worst quality.

    Niche presentations keep the patch somehow as novel as when patchouli was originally popularized as a scent in the West after the silk-road connection: patchouli leaves--a natural insect repellant-- wrapping silks to keep pests away, then the fine ladies loving the smell of this pest-free silk. Divine progression! And a patchouli with grapefruit? It somehow makes perfect sense. Blush, I wore Lucky You perfume as a teen and lived for the grapefruit accord, spraying the books I would loan crushes with the cute but cloying pink juice. Now I want something that smells like books and grapefruit.

    mumsy- What a perfect time capsule finding one of those would be. These days, the passing around of natural oils in a group setting only applies to junk food. Auric Blends is name-checked in rock biographies and 60s-70s novels from time to time. Cultural cachet. Isn't AB still around in those dreamcatcher roll-ons? I really like most of Song of India's line. Even cheap opium oils from actual current headshops smell so rainy, smoggy, mineralic, heady, divine! ...To have lived in fragrant days like you.

    "good karma" to all

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh and does the new Habanita edp work well in combination with the slightly less-gold-topped version of the recent EDT? I need Habanita power and time travel.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Vintage BAV, oh yes, I remember it well - it was absolutely gorgeous. I wore it all the time for a couple of years, too long ago to admit to. The current version is one of the better reformulations, IMO, but doesn't capture the luxuriant quality of the original.
    Aromatics Elixir, yes, great for patchouli, and I do have a bottle of the Velvet Sheer flanker, which I think is really pretty but has much less patch in it.
    For sandalwood, though, I cherish a vintage Samsara which is truly breathtaking. The current version is also OK, IMO, but lacks the intensity and quality of the sandalwood when it was first created.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    How about Opium? As far as i can see I don't think it's been mentioned yet.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Opium and Cinnebar... I used to wear both of those long ago..... better have a remember sniff.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    I may wear some vintage Opium today. I have a small bottle hiding out somewhere. And some Samsara. It is thundering here across the mountains. Either scent will calm my soul and take me to foreign lands.
    Beauty is an ecstasy; it is as simple as hunger. There is really nothing to be said about it. It is like the perfume of a rose: you can smell it and that is all.
    W. Somerset Maugham

  20. #20

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Quote Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post
    So 70s-80s bold, non-sweet oriental and/or chypre powerhouses seem to be what you're looking for...is that right? Most of these have all three of the notes you're looking for and more, but I'd say they're a particularly patch prominent bunch -

    Halston
    Goodness do I miss the orignal Halston. What it is today is nothing short of criminal.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Well, ehm, (Blush) I.....Well you see I.......What I mean to say is......ehm......I just happened to be passing by, and.....well, you know I thought I'd pop by and.....and say hello....and, well, since you already know Nirmala.....which of course I was going to add to the list for you......at any rate I....ehm....

    LOVE YOU MUMSY!!!!!! Yes, Indeed, I do. I'm currently in the middle, well actually at the end of an experiment: I'm on holiday, you see, and have been for about a week's time. Rather than going to Kona or The Continent, which is what I normally tend to do, I "stepped off the train" and am experimenting in this new destination: Agoraphobia. It's lovely. So, not having left my house once in a week, I have not bathed once, either, nor have I touched a deodorant stick, "Just to see," how it feels to smell like a real hippie: Actually, it smells pretty darn good! But, you know how we males are all in love with our own armpits. At any rate, yesterday, after having "harvested" a full seven days of funk, I DRENCHED myself in Molinard Patchouli. It was fascinating: So emotionally delicious! I was overcome with.....all manner of insights.....as the day crept by awash in the most spectacular sillage that I myself could inhale non stop, which proves the following: that these lovely leaves have more than anti-insect repellent properties. I believe now firmly that they have slightly narcotic ones as well, as, to be blunt, I was noticeably "Stoned on the Vibe" all day and through to evening. However, today, I *MUST* bathe, and am preparing to do so as I write, after which I will rub my entire body with Givenchy Gentleman "Apres Rasage," of which I must have about 100 8oz bottles, circa 1977, (I recommend this aftershave to all as an hand refresher, a body rub, and an hair tonic: It's SUPERB) and then "re-enforce" with vintage EdT, after which I will merely dress the part, which for me is easy, since I already have very long ringletty hair and a full beard; even though my sandals might be Givenchy and my clothes all Dries van Noten, Ann D., etc.....I will be the perfect illustration of "How to Spend 10K on Couture in one outfit and Look Perfectly Homeless," -An art form of which I have made a specialty- I will then hike up through the park to wind my way into the doctor's office where I must collect the prescriptions for all of my.....ehm.....pills: So you see drugs are an integral part of the engagement. Peace.

    - - - Updated - - -

    and, yes, by all means: The new HABANITA, which I have taken to calling "Fabanita"--will work as a base to the old EdT, which will brighten it considerably: The main difference between the two is Fabanita is remarkably more subtle and powdery, so evocative of a kind of mix of soft, soft, Bal a Versailles and vintage pre-now Shalimar: On Frag, where I posted a review for it, I called it "Shalimar Saw Dust." Let me tell you, ladies: THIS is a KILLER reform. (Watch the woody-inducing video on Frag. HOT. HOT. HOT!!!!!!!!) Just the bottle is worth it to behold as an objet d'art, and the fragrance is.......supreme. A *total* magnet. I almost want to stop harping on about it as I don't want it to become common, but, seriously, this is a MODERN MASTERPIECE. In that "School," I'm afraid, it is very lonely: It is very different from the original, but it is in every way better--longevity, sillage, ease of wear, the way it clings to hair and cloth, everything about it is better, and, even though it is distinctly different, it could *only be* HABANITA.

    - - - Updated - - -

    and, yes, by all means: The new HABANITA, which I have taken to calling "Fabanita"--will work as a base to the old EdT, which will brighten it considerably: The main difference between the two is Fabanita is remarkably more subtle and powdery, so evocative of a kind of mix of soft, soft, Bal a Versailles and vintage pre-now Shalimar: On Frag, where I posted a review for it, I called it "Shalimar Saw Dust." Let me tell you, ladies: THIS is a KILLER reform. (Watch the woody-inducing video on Frag. HOT. HOT. HOT!!!!!!!!) Just the bottle is worth it to behold as an objet d'art, and the fragrance is.......supreme. A *total* magnet. I almost want to stop harping on about it as I don't want it to become common, but, seriously, this is a MODERN MASTERPIECE. In that "School," I'm afraid, it is very lonely: It is very different from the original, but it is in every way better--longevity, sillage, ease of wear, the way it clings to hair and cloth, everything about it is better, and, even though it is distinctly different, it could *only be* HABANITA.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Excuse my novice enthusiasum effluvium, MdM. I assure you I am no sycophant (but wouldn't only a sycophant feel the need to 'assure?') ... my admiration for those with strong personal style here is nothing but a hedonistic interpretation of the collective unconscious (whatever that may mean--usually: style and pleasure as exhalation). Per-son-ality plus, plz. And now I must have Habanita edp.

    And yes, there is something mystical but earthy/practical about lots of high quality patchouli when alone, so no one can criticize it--as they inevitably do...

    I commend your personal funk-fest. When I went to hippie college and lived in the dank Pacific Northwest, this Ann D-lover sang the body electric often. Surprisingly very few people minded the clean musk of a less sanitized body, but as soon as the patchouli went on, even right after a shower, paranoid comments ensued. Acid flashbacks, maybe...

    karmalee- Opium as a calm in the storm sounds heavenly

    Oh and thanks, neespenes, mumsy, evangeline- Opium and Cinnabar are irresistible--and I always associate vintage Emeraude with these. I see again and again that men find these to be among the most alluring scents. Many young women I know still dislike them, as many of our mothers daily-wore and over-applied in the evil 80s. But Opium and the other great orientals completely transcend wearer-associations. They're monoliths. One of the vintage Opium necklace flacons beckons...

    Vintage Halston is a favorite. Halston perfectly parlayed the ideas of Ossie Clark's total sensuality, then cleaned up hippie for a night out, and did it ever work! I think his original scent is a pitch-perfect representation of his ethos--more than any other designer-associated scent I've tried, down to the bottle design that he had to help fund out of pocket due to a design error. Wearing the Halston still sold, in particular that pointless no-alcohol cologne, would be like going to a disco cover-band festival, and I seriously hope such an event doesn't even exist.
    Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 10th July 2012 at 10:36 PM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Quote Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire View Post
    Excuse my novice enthusiasum effluvium, MdM. I assure you I am no sycophant (but wouldn't only a sycophant feel the need to 'assure?') ... my admiration for those with strong personal style here is nothing but a hedonistic interpretation of the collective unconscious (whatever that may mean--usually: style and pleasure as exhalation). Per-son-ality plus, plz. And now I must have Habanita edp.

    And yes, there is something mystical but earthy/practical about lots of high quality patchouli when alone, so no one can criticize it--as they inevitably do...

    I commend your personal funk-fest. When I went to hippie college and lived in the dank Pacific Northwest, this Ann D-lover sang the body electric often. Surprisingly very few people minded the clean musk of a less sanitized body, but as soon as the patchouli went on, even right after a shower, paranoid comments ensued. Acid flashbacks, maybe...
    Isn't it the truth? When I wear G-Gentleman, there's a kind of phenomenon that occurs. The men over there in Male Forum can not stop endlessly comparing notes about.....OK, now, don't laugh...."Panty Droppers." Yes. That is what they call them. Isn't it hilarious? I'm the first to admit the eccentricities of my sex: Arm-pit fascination, etc, but imagining that *any* perfume will make *any* Female (or She-Male) drop her panties is the most absurd thing. Bunch of cavemen over there, Isn't it? At any rate--here's what happens. It goes this way. Typically, I don't seek out attention with my sillage when out and about, thus my signature scents which you all know: Very discrete. Typically, I spray G-Gentleman on my "Treasure Trail," and that being buried under--vest, shirt, waistcoat, blazer, pants, and jeans, -all of those layers- just gives a very vague nicety that really requires fly-opening which of course happens over the course of the day, for natural reasons, you see. (I recommend "the belly button blast" for all of you who wish to experiment with these sillage bombs, like "Opium" during the day and hesitate. It's brilliant.) So, as I did today, it is rare indeed that I should spritz my neck, and wrists with G-Gentleman. Naturally, I *only* consider the vinatge: Pre-1985. When I do, it invariably comes to pass that I am repeatedly stopped on the street by lone members the fairer sex--and asked questions which require long, drawn out answers. Usually, these will have something to do with my clothes, or recommendations for somewhere they might have a coffee, or where they might be able to find the nearest place in which to buy every single hair product I currently may (or may not) be wearing. ("How do you get your hair to do that? Is it leave in?") Today, it happened three times. Each time, I could see the tell-tale sparkle in their eyes. It *always* happens when I "outwardly* wear G-Gentleman. HOWEVER: My fellow males, whom also will not fail to comment, have only this to say: "Are you wearing Patchouli?" (Intuit the tone of the word Patchouli here) In other words, I am fawned over by women, and ridiculed by men, each and every time I wear G-Gentleman, which, you know, in France, when I was a killer young late-teen early twenty-something, it was *generally known* that G-Gentleman was every woman's favourite scent to inhale on their men: This was a given: Needed strictly no discussion. Naturally, I made a signature of it in the FABULOUS 80's. (No fair calling them horrible when you weren't there, or even if you were, and you were listening to the Mouseketeers: They were SENSATIONAL. they were nothing less than the LAST decade when "Something" actually happened that wasn't redux. Just you go listen to about two straight hours of Bauhaus for saying the word horrid in regards to them, or whatever it was you said. In France and in England, they were THE BEST. Sorry. Oh--and not to mention those ridiculous 90's--when we were all ready for the "New Age"--then it never came. Linda Evangelista gets a fringe and Kristin McMenamy shaves off her eyebrows. Big Fucking deal.--and the Noughts. NO-THING. Now we're in--what? the Teens? NO-THING. Don't any of you start 80's thrashing without imagining you'll not have to answer to me: I've no idea how they were in the US but they were THRILLING in the UK. THRILLING in France. I'm feeling wounded that you should dismiss them. Mumsy will tell you: Yes, the 60's & 70's were the Goood Times....but the 80's.....these mayn't have been "the Good Times," but, oh, let me tell you, I who was there and already going out dancing every night, (It's just what you did) wearing the make-up (all men wore it then) and the clothes.....(Of course by "clothes" I don't meen....you know....just any clothes.)....drenching myself in perfume with an abandon *only the 80's + France* would allow: NOTHING can compare. Hey: Listen to this--THEN we'll discuss.)

    SHE'S IN PARTIES
    -or anything by Bauhaus.
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 11th July 2012 at 01:58 AM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Rest assured, MdM, 1981 is the one year I wish I could have been alive and of partying age in. A time of wild creativity and abandon. I errantly implied the 80s were bad, but I had only the frumpy trickle-down 80s of suburban America. A true hell of The Breakfast Club. This time can have a sort of nostalgic charm now, but I can't shake the creepiness of a Thatcher/Reagan-era and shallow displays of tasteless wealth. Anyone who was still towing the bohemian line in those days though? Heroic. Bauhaus penance, Cure penance, Sisters of Mercy holy rosary. Gypsy by Fleetwood Mac is my theme song , so yes even the 70s-holdover ostensibly mainstream bits of the 80s I love. Clued out American ladies in too much blush and ugly sweaters with hairspray attacks make me sad. Euros seemed to know how to do the 80s In Quotes instead of letting the 80s do them?

    Oh and to my naive ways, the 90s seem so great. Kristin McMenamy fan and all, anti-fashion as fashion, androgyny. But it was taken too far, and I'm sure if I had been of partying age during it, the moody charade would have worn thinner than Kate Moss on a detox. To locate the exact point of distaste, 1988 is what I think of as "evil 80s," which really were more proto-90s: All of those Tina Chow crystal things and short haired ladies? Hmmm... don't quite like. Too serious.

    But generalizing about or idealizing a time one barely experienced is certainly useless, though it can be quite fun..if only to the silly generalizer in question. As you said, this silly nostalgia mania is this age's inheritance.
    Last edited by anomie et ivoire; 11th July 2012 at 02:11 AM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    DETAILS:

    "The Eighties" started in 1978.
    "The Nineties" started in 1989.

    And yes: I was forever on the night coach to London from Paris. Taking the ferry. Eating greasy English Breakfast on it. Landing in Victoria Station at 8:00am and sitting around the King's Road all day waiting for the clubs to open--then being kicked out of them at 4:00-5:00am--sitting around Trafalgar Square in my sweaty make-up.....Wearing Vivienne Westwood.....Kick Dancing to the Cure's "8:15 on a Saturday Night" (We all knew we would go home black and blue--drawing blood was chic--you would get hurled into ancient crypt like underground lapidary walls--if you happened to get a nose bleed or a cut, you were proud) Siouxie & the Banchees' "Haeyna,"--Parties in the Catacombs--It was.....SUCH A TIME......and I *started* going out dancing in 1979 in Paris--but the real fun began when I discovered that night coach to London, after which I was on it almost every weekend: I have boxes & boxes of photos--if you could see the get ups and the hair and the pasty white face! I can tell you also it's not because these days are passed that they seem romantic and wonderful: They actually were--you see--the thing is--in the 80's, it was "in" to be twisted, miserable and ill: So, you know, the more you were depressed and angry, the more everything made sense. Unlike now--Heaven help you if you're not a smiley bobble-head smelling of watermelon. Some bloody harajuku girl or cackling bind-white-tooth Boy. When I see all the youngsters in their fake 80's clothes from H&M, I just shudder--There is *NO WAY* to be able to "Feel" what it was like unless you were there. (Strangely, the movie "Fight Club" reminded me so much of the 80's--even though it had nothing to do with them) When they were over (The Cure's 1989 "Disintegration" is considered their Death Knell--notably "Plainsong," track #1) and, when Linda Evangelista got that fringe, we all turned into Romeo Gigli Wearing New Age Hippies (The "thing" hanging around the neck....) drenched in "Femininte du Bois" and "Ambre Sultan," (Serge Lutens is SO 90's) it all sort of became a joke--nothing happened--not until Grunge hit--but we who were young adults then all just scratched our heads and thought it reminded us of our elder sisters listening to Led Zepplin in their bedrooms smoking shake in the 70's, same with those clothes: Again--our reviled elder sisters whom we hated dressed like that in the 70's--so you see we weren't -all that- impressed......it wasn't *entirely* new.....and, ever since, I'm afraid, Nothing has been new. (Nothing that matters, at least, on a large scale.) Liz Tilberis called the 90's "The Era of Elegance." I call it "The Era of the End." Don't anyone decide to be snarky and suggest I betray my age: I loudly proclaim it atop every pinnacle--all the while still passing for a thirty something--lots of (and lots) of titanium dioxide sunscreen, the way it was back then: Just made you look whiter, and, of course, you simply could never be white enough then, you know--the very *IDEA* of a tan---well, need I point out?
    Last edited by le mouchoir de monsieur; 11th July 2012 at 03:49 AM.
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  26. #26

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    What a great thread!

    MdM, I love the trip down memory lane. I was in NYC in the 80s and it was fun. Before it wasn't anymore.

    Mumsy, I had that thick, viscous Mysore sandalwood that you had. There was a shop in NYC called Aphrodesia, which I discovered in the 70s actually. It was on Carmine Street and then moved to Bleecker Street after having been on Carmine St. for a million years. Anyway, they had rows and rows of apothecary jars of herbs, roots, powders, all manner of things from the innocuous to the creepy, and all of these lovely essential oils. It was hippy haven, though I wasn't actually a hippy myself, just a bit of a free spirit I suppose. I had a large glass bottle of Mysore sandalwood oil from Aphrodesia, it was clear but thick as tar. I wish I'd held on to it now! I don't know what happened to it. I used to make my own potpourri with ingredients from that shop. Now, I order ingredients online.

    Anomie et ivoire, did anyone mention vintage Miss Dior? That is a really spectacular vintage bombshell, imo, despite the prim name. Gardenia and galbanum with sage, oak moss, a touch of patchouli. I used to wear it, and I can highly recommend it. This one MUST be vintage. Also, Dioressence had patchouli in it, but it was spicier. Also MUST be vintage. They ask high prices for those on ebay but you might be able to scout around estate sales or something locally. Anyway...if you see any GRAB it! And then there is good old Youth Dew (or Youth Don't, as MdM likes to call it ). What a fantastic patchouli resiny scent that is, especially the bath oil. I think I'd look for that in an older bottle, too, but the current one is just fine. I agree with the Aromatics Elixir recommendation, but I can't wear that one myself. It is too dry for me. I like scents that are sweeter, but I've smelled AE on people who wore it so well I didn't even recognize it. It just smelled wonderful on them.

    p.s. arrgh!!! I though I lost my post ^^^ but then I remembered auto save. That feature works.

  27. #27
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    MdM-- Yes, few of my peers, let alone the poor younger ones, understand Melancholy, only Depression, and that too is treated with video games, drinking, or pharmaceuticals and dull internet pornos. Plenty insist on being Depressed, but of course that isn't the least bit fun. There's the glee club happy people crowd and then the po-faced pseuds on the whole, love them all as I might...sure with plenty of exceptions, but all quite scattered. Grunge did a lot for us, but it gave many the mistaken impression that having no style and being depressed and studiedly rude is at all interesting. Decadence of the old kind!? Rare to be found. Mostly all is puritanical guilty pleasure and very little true pleasure or transgression.

    Lilybelle, you are such a dear! And with an interesting past too... Huge containers of Miss Dior in the plain bottle with the houndstooth band and Dioressence with the marbled one ... HGs for me.

    As per Evangeline's rec: Has anyone tried the early editions of Reminiscence Patchouli (assuming its sandalwood has gone downhill in recent batches?)?
    Sounds quite promising.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Heady Vintage: your favorite discontinued patchouli, sandalwood, incense

    Quote Originally Posted by anomie et ivoire View Post
    Vintage Halston is a favorite. Halston perfectly parlayed the ideas of Ossie Clark's total sensuality, then cleaned up hippie for a night out, and did it ever work! I think his original scent is a pitch-perfect representation of his ethos--more than any other designer-associated scent I've tried, down to the bottle design that he had to help fund out of pocket due to a design error. Wearing the Halston still sold, in particular that pointless no-alcohol cologne, would be like going to a disco cover-band festival, and I seriously hope such an event doesn't even exist.
    a&i, very well put. I couldn't agree more. All the talk about Halston had me pulling out my vintage tiny manufacturer's sample of the perfume last night. I confess to some careful dabbing. Bliss!

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