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  1. #1

    Default Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Many devotees of Cartier say Declaration is the best of the lot. To me, it comes off as a huge Cumin note wrapped around some citrus & wood. Very interesting but ultimately unwearable. Santos comes across as a Antaeus wannabe and Pasha is just OK. So that leaves Must PH. I initially bought this blind based on a comparison to Obsession for Men which I enjoy immensely. I found Must PH to be a great scent but lacking sillage and longevity. Next I bought L'Essence de Must de Cartier and let me tell you, this is the one. It's as if Cartier listened to us and took Must PH to another level with more sillage & longevity. Yes, the "softness" of the original PH is lost but look what is gained - tremendous sillage and longevity. The immaculate ginger note is taken to higher levels. Less grapefruit and more anise. And the wood is a bit stronger too contrasting nicely with the softer ginger and cinnamon. By all means, a superior and "darker" version to the original. Cartier really got it right on the Essence version. And it's an unsung masterpiece.
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  2. #2

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    It's funny that you wrote this up today, because I just sampled Must fully, and I then read the Turin review, which sounds like he confused Must with something else (talking about urinous notes that I can't detect at all and cedar, which if I strain I at least I imagine there is a trace of somewhere in the background). For a while, I was thinking of mint bubblegum (haven't chewed bubblegum in many years, so it's just an old memory at best), and also that it's very blended. It reminds me of Valenti's 101, in that it's well blended and has one accord that just keeps coming at you. It's a pleasant accord, but not that great, and after a while it gets boring, and you just wish it would begin to subside. I fear that the L'Essence version is too similar to Witness for me to invest money into it. The local stores didn't have a sample of it (though they had the other Cartier frags), so if anyone wants to compare it to Witness, I'd be curious to hear what he has to say.
    Last edited by Bigsly; 30th May 2008 at 03:51 AM. Reason: spelling error

  3. #3
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    I never even heard of this version of Must. Where did you find it?

    I love Must for women, but a friend who died wore it, and it makes me sad to smell now.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  4. #4

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    It's funny that you wrote this up today, because I just sampled Must fully, and I then read the Turin review, which sounds like he confused Must with something else (talking about urinous notes that I can't detect at all and cedar, which if I strain I at least I imagine there is a trace of somewhere in the background). For a while, I was thinking of mint bubblegum (haven't chewed bubblegum in many years, so it's just an old memory at best), and also that it's very blended. It reminds me of Valenti's 101, in that it's well blended and has one accord that just keeps coming at you. It's a pleasant accord, but not that great, and after a while it gets boring, and you just wish it would begin to subside. I fear that the L'Essence version is too similar to Witness for me to invest money into it. The local stores didn't have a sample of it (though they had the other Cartier frags), so if anyone wants to compare it to Witness, I'd be curious to hear what he has to say.
    No confusion on the Must PH. I can see where he gets the animalic vibe in Must PH.

    Unfamilar with Witness and Valenti 101 so I can not say.
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  5. #5

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I never even heard of this version of Must. Where did you find it?

    I love Must for women, but a friend who died wore it, and it makes me sad to smell now.
    Ebay has it and it's where I got both versions. The original for a criminally insane $10/50ml and the essence for $20/100ml. There's usually a tester to be had for cheap as nobody seems interested in Must PH. Shame, it is. Now if only I can get my hands on the rarity known as Must PH Vert Anis!!!!
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  6. #6

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    I disagree with the original assertion that people reckon Declaration is the one.

    I really like Cartier frags and my favourite is Eau De Cartier, in either the standard or Concentree formulation.

    Next is Pasha - which I don't for one second think is just "okay". It's a very sexy fragrance and I get a lot of women complimenting me on it when I wear it.

    Then I would go with either Must or Declaration.

    I've been trying Declaration Bleue, Essence and the original formulation. I find the Essence a bit too intense to be honest and prefer the original. The Bleue is nice, but nice enough for me to want to buy one over the original formulation.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Eau de cartier!!! Doesnt get better than this!!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    the best Cartier are for sure Declaration and Santos. Said that I never had problems about sillage or longevity with the regular Must PH (very good scent for wintertime btw) that I used to wear for longtime when it was launched and lasted on me more than 8 hours with a good sillage.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    L'Essence Must de Cartier is so smooth and heady, without being cloying. And there is a slight, sort of animalic feel in its composition. I wonder when and why Cartier discontinued this masterpiece...
    Are you not entertained??? Is this not why you are here??

  10. #10

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Must de Pour Homme is a fantastic scent. It's a tie between it and Declaration for best Cartier scent. I've never had a problem with the longevity or sillage.

  11. #11
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Les Heures de Cartier are my current favorites.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Just two sprays of Declaration have served me very well today at work.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    The original formulation of Pasha (with neon green juice; reformulated has yellowish) is my favorite Cartier fragrance.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    I was never really a fan of Santos, Pasha, Declaration and co. but was always impressed with the womens Must. I thought it to be a mistake, (to all intents and purposes a mans fragrance, but marketed as a womens). Then came Le Baiser Du Dragon which I consider an underrated masterpiece, especially in extrait form with that wonderful anise/cut grass note hovering in the background !!!!!!
    ......and after that came Baiser Vole. In my view another masterpiece.
    " Only wimps swim with the current "

  15. #15

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Quote Originally Posted by manicboy View Post
    Many devotees of Cartier say Declaration is the best of the lot. To me, it comes off as a huge Cumin note wrapped around some citrus & wood. Very interesting but ultimately unwearable.
    I don't think many agree to this bold statement.............
    I think people who don't like Declaration due to the cumin (cardamom?!) note have a bad skin chemistry for this fragrance. I personally never understood/understand the fuzz about the so called 'BO' smell.
    On me this note is hardly detectable anymore after 20 mins and this fragrance turns into a delicious high level fresh-spicy olfactory experience. Same for the Essence version which has a heavier base and is also a masterpiece after the opening stage imo.

    I agree that 'Must' for women is a gorgeous fragrance!
    My Top '10' : (In no particular order)

    - Dolce & Gabbana: Pour Homme (vintage)
    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vintage)
    - Loewe: Esencia/Pour Homme/Solo/7
    - Davidoff: Leather Blend Edp
    - Dior: Eau Sauvage Parfum
    - MPG: Santal Noble
    - Guerlain: Vetiver
    - Van Cleef & Arpels: Pour Homme
    - Hermes: Terre d'Hermes
    - YSL: Kouros (Fraicheur)

  16. #16

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Quote Originally Posted by Slayerized View Post
    I don't think many agree to this bold statement.............
    I think people who don't like Declaration due to the cumin (cardamom?!) note have a bad skin chemistry for this fragrance. I personally never understood/understand the fuzz about the so called 'BO' smell.
    On me this note is hardly detectable anymore after 20 mins and this fragrance turns into a delicious high level fresh-spicy olfactory experience. Same for the Essence version which has a heavier base and is also a masterpiece after the opening stage imo.

    I agree that 'Must' for women is a gorgeous fragrance!
    +1.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    To the Original Poster, never heard a truer statement

  18. #18

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Tried it and it's a very nice, sweet scent but I found projection lacking, to be honest. Prefer other Cartier fragrances.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Santos is my favorite.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Cartier's best - It's not what you think

    Quote Originally Posted by rbaker View Post
    Santos is my favorite.
    I had this and the concentree version. Both fantastic.
    Are you not entertained??? Is this not why you are here??

  21. #21
    danho's Avatar
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    Default

    I've tried all the Cartier scents and, for me, Roadster is the best. Number 2 is a toss up between Pasha and Declaration.

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