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  1. #31
    Dependent Curly11's Avatar
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    12ml
    Thanks for the clarification, hedonist.

  2. #32

    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    The closest I've come to Arabic perfumery still has its "feet" in Europe:

    Madini: Some fascinating, eye-opening fragrances (dark, non-sweet, woody, resinous, smoky, green) but many that appeared to be affordable versions of European style perfume. Also, I fault them for trying to cash in on all-natural claims by deceptive marketing.

    Amouage: Modern and expensive, heavy on frankincense, rose, and resin. Darker, more somber and sultry than French.

    Montale: At first, amazing, with its bold rose and oud scents. Then became overdone with iterations. Still, they helped make rose a masculine scent for Westerners.

    Souk market perfumes: Cheap and one-dimensional, like American head-shop fragrances. Most are not worth the money, even though they're cheap.

    Serge Lutens, enabled Chris Sheldrake to feature Arabic ingredients in French perfumery in a way that brought the aromas of labdanum, benzoin, and dried fruits to the attention of the Western public.

    My vote? French with Middle-Eastern influence. They've learned a lot since YSL Opium...
    Last edited by purplebird7; 11th November 2013 at 07:31 PM.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    What a great and informative thread.

    It reminds me of perfumes I smelt as a child that were brought back from the middle east. Wonder if I will ever smell these again. This thread also reminds me of the message of Arabic perfumes Cavafy wrote about (among other messages).

    Ithaca

    As you set out for Ithaka
    hope the voyage is a long one,
    full of adventure, full of discovery.
    Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
    angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
    you’ll never find things like that on your way
    as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
    as long as a rare excitement
    stirs your spirit and your body.
    Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
    wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
    unless you bring them along inside your soul,
    unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

    Hope the voyage is a long one.
    May there be many a summer morning when,
    with what pleasure, what joy,
    you come into harbors seen for the first time;
    may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
    to buy fine things,
    mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
    sensual perfume of every kind—
    as many sensual perfumes as you can;
    and may you visit many Egyptian cities

    to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.

    Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
    Arriving there is what you are destined for.
    But do not hurry the journey at all.
    Better if it lasts for years,
    so you are old by the time you reach the island,
    wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
    not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

    Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
    Without her you would not have set out.
    She has nothing left to give you now.

    And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
    Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
    you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.
    'When asked what dowry the spartan girl was providing to the noble spartan warrior marrying her, the poor girl said: "my fathers common sense" '.
    Currently wearing: Note de Yuzu by Heeley

  4. #34

    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    The French is the oldest as far as actual artistic rendering of a fragrance, an intentional design of a fragrance. The Arabic ones were more or less always based on selling pure oils, and not designed to achieve a particular blend.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Utterly educational thread! I'm reading every word with great interest.

    I wonder if the wave of the perfume-future will be small batch houses (like Areej le Dore) that do not have to abide by IFRA standards and can make potent, attar-like, but alcohol based scents using real musk, ambergris, oud, etc.
    Currently wearing: L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

  6. #36

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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    It would be nice if smaller houses didn't have to abide by ifra. However, they'd have to do so if they want to grow in Europe. So I'm not keeping my hopes high.

    cacio

  7. #37

    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Would personally prefer if more French houses would have both the performances of Arabic EDPs (or even higher fragrance concentrations) and would cover more diverse, more exotic notes
    Currently wearing: Ambré Noble by Zara

  8. #38

    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    In my limited experience, oils have been better than alcohol based perfumes in general. I suspect Arabian houses are more interested in oils and have not developed the expertise for alcohol. (Amouage is an exception, but then it uses western perfumers).
    I am curious about this opinion. Oils are better than alcohol-based perfumes in what sense?

    Also, what drives Western perfumers to create mainly in alcohol-based perfumes? As opposed to oils and water-based perfumes? Is there some generally acknowledged preference, or performance-related factor that alcohol is superior in?

  9. #39
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    It would be nice if smaller houses didn't have to abide by ifra. However, they'd have to do so if they want to grow in Europe. So I'm not keeping my hopes high.

    cacio
    Good point. Someone in a different thread claimed that Slumberhouse does not adhere to IFRA rules. Do some houses get away with this, and if so, how do they do it? Is it a mere matter of size?
    Currently wearing: L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

  10. #40
    Super Member Hothamwater's Avatar
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    Utterly educational thread! I'm reading every word with great interest.

    I wonder if the wave of the perfume-future will be small batch houses (like Areej le Dore) that do not have to abide by IFRA standards and can make potent, attar-like, but alcohol based scents using real musk, ambergris, oud, etc.
    I didn't know they aren't bound to IFRA standards? What is the loophole that allows this?
    Currently wearing: M by Puredistance

  11. #41
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    Default Re: French Perfumery vs Arabic Perfumery

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    I am curious about this opinion. Oils are better than alcohol-based perfumes in what sense?

    Also, what drives Western perfumers to create mainly in alcohol-based perfumes? As opposed to oils and water-based perfumes? Is there some generally acknowledged preference, or performance-related factor that alcohol is superior in?
    Oils with their lower volatility stay longer on skin than alcohol-based fragrances. Alcohol carrier being the more volatile material allows for quicker diffusion of scent and better projection.

    Middle Eastern markets are less interested in alcohol-based fragrances as a majority of them are Muslims who believe alcohol is prohibited in Islam ( it is indeed prohibited for its inebriating properties in consumable drinks, but not as topical applications.)

    The other reasons probably got to do with climate/humidity and tradition. Perhaps someone could chime in with when alcohol was first used as a carrier in Western perfumery.
    Last edited by Diamondflame; 28th August 2017 at 12:40 AM.

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