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  1. #1

    Default Perfume from France?

    A good friend is leaving for a trip to France on Sunday & would like to buy me a small bottle of perfume while he's there. (He just upped his status in MY book) I'd love to take the opportunity to try something new but I'm working tomorrow & have no time to sniff. What a dilemma!

    Love florals (iris, violet, heliotrope...), citrus, musk, anise, vanilla. Not so much on green notes or aquatics.

    Any suggestions?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    Is he going to Paris? There were some threads in the past about what to buy in Paris. A good idea would be to get something that's hard or impossible to find stateside. One that comes to mind would be Parfums de Nicolai. Very clasical French style, and relatively inexpensive too, also because they come in 30 ml small bottles as well (for 30-40 euros) - so it won't seem you're trying to bankrupt him. Ideas could be Odalisque (woody floral), Maharanih and Sacrebleu (more vanillic, floral oriental). but most are good really. The downside is that he will have to go to the exact store - there are a few spread over Paris, including a convenient one not far from the Louvre.

    Iris, violet, heliotrope almost sound like the recipe for two Guerlain masterpieces: l'Heure Bleue and Apres l'ondee. You can find them in the states as well, but in places like Saks or Neimans. Both have recently been reformulated to be more iris-centric and less heliotrope oriented, but they are still good. Apres l'ondee only comes in expensive bottles, if I recall correctly. L'Heure Bleue should be available widely and in cheaper formats.

    If the budget is higher, the possibilties are endless in niche territory, starting from Lutens. But if he's paying, it doesn't sound right.

    For himself, he can check Chanel pour monsieur (regular, not concentree) and Dior Jules, which are not sold in the US.


  3. #3
    Dependent fragranceman88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Dundee, Scotland

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    Oh, Lordy. Possibilities are endless

  4. #4

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    Quote Originally Posted by fragranceman88 View Post
    Oh, Lordy. Possibilities are endless
    You are absolutely right fragranceman. My excitement, coupled with a very long work day, created that lame & vague post last night. My bad! I will try to be a bit more specific in what I'm looking for.

    A fabulous floral with possibly some citrus and/or musk, vanilla... I want something fresh for this hot Florida weather. I'd love to try my first Malle! Possibly L'eau d'hiver??

    Thank you Cacio for your suggestions. I'm not familiar with Parfums de Nicolai, but will take a peek at a few of them tonight to see if any sound enticing. I do love Guerlain & have several FB including Apre L'Ondee, which actually inspired the floral notes I mentioned. (Bravo) She's beautiful but so brooding! Does any fresh scent come to mind that is comprised of similar notes?
    My friend did mention picking up the Dior Jules for himself & yes, he will be in Paris.

    My hope is to come up with a few good choices so he can made the final selection.

    Thanks for any input!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    Heliotropin is now severely restricted, so the style, which was out of fashion anyway, is very hard to replicate.

    Almondy Eau d'Hiver is wonderful, but don't expect the broodiness of AO, the iris and the spices. Also, it is expensive, and as expensive in France as it is here.
    In the Parfums de Nicolai range, the heliotropin frag is Kiss me tender, a delicate marzipan confection with a touch of flowers, quite light smelling and fresh. Among the two, I prefer Eau d'Hiver, but it costs more. Incidentally, Patricia de Nicolai is a member of the Guerlain family, but she opened her own line; but the style is indeed classical french, as Guerlains are.

    The other heliotropin floral reference used to be Caron Farnesiana. But I read it's been reformulated (Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez are disparaging about the reformulation), and am not even sure it's still available. The Caron store in Paris carries the $$$ extraits, but again, who knows what it smells like now.


  6. #6

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    Cacio, I think I'm trying too hard to hold on to what I already know, when what I really want is to experience something new & vibrant. What would come to mind for you when you think of a fresh, sassy floral from Malle?

    Dang, I finally admitted that outloud. Newbies can be so difficult...

    P.S. My buddy & I go way back & are very generous with each other.
    Last edited by Genie Jeanie; 29th July 2012 at 04:56 AM. Reason: could be taken the wrong way

  7. #7

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    In the Malle line, Carnal flower is a huge, over the top tuberose, as sassy as it gets. We are of course at the opposite end of the spectrum from AO. Fleur de Cassie instead is a big traditional french floral, complete of the "dirty" musky basenotes; but for this you and buddy have to like dirty musks. Both are sassy, though "fresh" is not the first word that comes to mind.

    But if you really are thinking about some freshness there, there's Lys Mediterranee. It is a very realistic exhuberant lily (lily, not lily of the valley), but mixed with sea like, marine notes (salty, ocean) that make it very "Mediterranee" indeed. Perfumeshrine has a great review:
    However, be aware that it does have a touch of marine/aquatic note-not much, just a touch; I am particular sensitive to these notes, so I am ambivalent towards it. However, if you don't recoil in horror at Eau d'Issey, Light blue and the like (as I do) this should work for Florida as well as it does for the greek isles.

    Now, if money is no issue at all, and you forget about freshness, then there is a perfumery called JAR which sells $$$$$ extraits. Bolt of lightning (Eclair in french) is a stunning, absolutely over the top tuberose (EUR 600, if I recall correctly). Jardenia is possibly the only realistic gardenia, with all the dirty, mushroomy, blue cheese notes firmly in evidence, as in the flower (somewhere around eur 400).


  8. #8

    Default Re: Perfume from France?


    Yes! Just the recommendations I wanted. Hopefully I will get better with the asking part. I'm so open to trying new scents & have the perfect opportunity right now. I just wasn't prepared to switch gears right now. But you helped me do it!

    Carnal Flower & Fleur de Cassie have both intrigued me for a while now. They must go on the list! I'm still intrigued by the L'eau d'hiver too. I had considered the Lys as well, but wasn't aware of the aquatic notes. Those & grassy green notes are a definite no for me. Light Blue was a scrubber.

    Jar will be saved for when I win the Lotto.

    My thanks for sticking with me on this, you dear & patient man! My friends leave tomorrow afternoon & I wanted to have an answer. Do now.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    South Florida

    Default Re: Perfume from France?


    Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle - Upon application, one is treated to beautiful and understated wafts of aldehydes, giving a sparkly dimension to the lemony magnolia, the fruity ylang-ylang and the tutti-fruti jasmine. Drifting to the waiting middle, a regal iris overtakes the brilliance of the aldehydes, and infuses its violet-like sweetness and verdancy to the fore. The standoffish iris is lightly dusted with the powderiness of the magical aldehydes. An earthy and somewhat green undertone is provided by stalwart vetiver. Transitioning to the awaiting base, creamy sandalwood, spicy tonka bean and sweet vanilla encase the lustrous iris, and lead to a handsome and easy drydown. This exquisite, unisex composition is a skin scent, as far as projection is concerned; however, the longevity, 8-9 hours, is good.

  10. #10
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Exactly Where I Should Be


    Dollars - you're right - Iris Poudre is a sensory delight !
    Cacio - +1 on all the F Malles you mentioned .
    I have to say on my skin - Une Fleur de Cassie is devoid of any dirtiness . It's just pure powdery green floral .

    I wish you the best Genie Jeanie , whatever you choose !

  11. #11

    Default Re: Perfume from France?

    A huge thank you for all the great recommendations!!

    Cacio, I know I kept you up all night answering my questions. You're a jewel!
    Mimi Gardenia & Dollars & Scents, I loved your input & you helped me add a scent to my "wish" list.
    I've seen reviews from all of you & appreciate that your likes/dislikes run close to mine, so I know that whatever my friend brings back for me will be a winner.

    My choices were Iris Poudre, Carnal Flower, or Fleur de Cassie. I know these can be purchased in the US, but the situation just makes it so fun! Will let you know what he brings back for me.

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