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  1. #181
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    Prosaic waiting-for-my-"in preparation"-shipment thoughts...

    I hesitated this time around too, entirely due to price. My question on S01E03's page about whether price would continue to fluctuate went unanswered, except by someone else speculating that price indicates the relative value of the juice -- er, that seems not have been borne out by E01 and E02's pricing.

    My tiny professor-salary would love it if this "experience" had a lower bar to entry!
    I'm just curious how my speculation that the price varies with the relative price of the perfume is incorrect. S01E01 was $50 for 30 ml, and the revealed product's price was $80 for 50 ml or $80 for 100 ml. S01E02 was $25 for 30 ml and the revealed
    product's price was $60 for 3.4 oz (approx 100 mL). The more expensive perfume was sold for more prior to the reveal. I didn't say it was a direct dollar for dollar conversion - just that more expensive fragrances would be sold for more $, professor.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Interesting comments about art and emotion. Its a topic I have strong feelings about, LOL. A while back, while participating in a philosophy forum, I spent some time trying to come up with a definition of art that I could live with. What I came up with was "the creation of beauty through intelligence." To break it down, beauty exists in the world, but I don't think it can be called art unless it reflects a human creative influence (i.e. intelligence in my conception). In that forum, there was a lot of discussion of modern/post-modern "art" and whether it really is art. Some of it can be really ugly or mundane, and that sort of comes crashing up against my criteria that art is beauty...but not really, if you include an emotional reaction that is "beautiful." (Note that I'm not a scholar of aesthetics...I just know a lot of artists, and wanted to have a better way to understand art myself. There are probably better or more useful definitions out there, I just haven't seen them.)

    I mention this as a preface for the comment I wanted to make about emotional reactions to perfume (assuming it is art and not craft). I imagine the appreciation of "perfume art" splits along highbrow and lowbrow lines like any other art form. Is the fragrance the equivalent of a work by Thomas Kincade, for example, eliciting all sorts of maudlin emotions, or is it a more like Francis Bacon, whose paintings I find disturbing, frightening, and not beautiful. Or is it like Picasso, sometimes "pretty" sometimes not, but always beautiful. I have a feeling most mainstream fragrances, to the extent they aim to be artistic at all, are aiming to be "Painters of Light" like Kincade.

    I do find S01E03 beautiful, although I think it appeals more to my intellect than my emotions. So I haven't spent much time thinking about how it makes me feel.
    Wow! Wonderful descriptions. Thank you for sharing!

  2. #182
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    LOL you're evil I must say that hosting seems more fun than sniffing

    BIG NEWS: I received my decant!!!!

    So far I'm baffled as it smells soooo familiar, so easy going and so macrocyclic and yet I have no idea what it is, not the fragrance, nor the familiar musk *hanging head in shame* I think it might be a 'captive' mix, it breathes 'Givaudan' to me.

    I do think the top notes are from the less familiar citruses like litsea, lemon myrtle or cedrat. Imo there is no orange there, but might have some orange blossom (natural or synths). A very classical smart cologne with indeed the high buzzing note of a huge musk + indeed Iso E Super cos MAJOR headache upon just sniffing the cap of the atomizer. Probably some kephalis, hedione and isoraldeine too, major diffusive characters that may be responsible for some of the buzzing.

    The image that immediately pops into my head is 'Christian Grey', indeed from 'Fifty Shades of Grey':

    Attachment 16347


    it's beautiful, cold, enigmatic and possessive with a dark past and a sadistic nature *insert whip smiliey*

    To be continued
    Awesome! Glad you got it in time!!!

    Glad you're digging into the citrus. I think that's very cool (and very believable, IMO) that you can diagnose Iso E Super by the diagnostic headache. Several women here get the exact same thing. I just get a sporadic "feeling" in my head from it, but it's not consistent enough to really call it trustworthy.

    So you think it's a musk + Iso that gives it the buzzing? That's very interesting!!! And you mention hedione, too. Are there certain components used intentionally for the buzzing, or is it more of a "side-effect"? Fascinating stuff!!!

    Whip smiley? You need to whip rogalal for making ladies wear Old Spice!
    * * * *

  3. #183
    Basenotes Member Windblownhair's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I started using unscented personal care products about the same time I became a full-fledged perfumista, so I don't have to deal with clashing scents. However, several years ago a encountered a massage oil whose scent I LOVED! I wrote to the company asking if I could obtain some of the fragrance oil, and got a very nice response from the owner of the (small) company explaining that he had been involved in developing that scent and loved it too. He sent me an ounce of the fragrance oil, and several other body products gratis. Its so nice to encounter people who enjoy scent as much as you do!
    I like this idea. I've tried it a time or two before, but a few of the products gave me headaches. I wonder if their is something put in them to make them unscented that my body doesn't like(like a fabreze type of thing). I'll definitely try fragrance free again, but probably do some research before I pick my products.
    The question that women casually shopping for perfume ask more than any other is this: "What scent drives men wild?" After years of intense research, we know the definitive answer. It is bacon. Now, on to the far more interesting subject of perfume.
    ― Tania Sanchez, Perfumes: The Guide

  4. #184

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Okay, I'm taking the decant to work, see what others smell In the group thread (see siggy) I wrote more about the ingredients and buzzing. And also wrote some of my Grey impressions on Katie Puckrick's blog and been laughed at LOL (no group cohesion there that's for sure

    What surprised me most was the subjectivity/objectivity of experiencing the juice with a blindfold. For some reason I could keep the blindfold on (that's why I keep falling back to S&M descriptions, this is so familiar!). The discussions here nor Chandler's description really fit my feeling. So I felt free to fly solo and just smell and experience.

    I really think the juice includes ingredients to which some people may be anosmic to (like the musks). That is the only way I can understand the huge difference between the descriptions.

    There are 2 things I know for sure: 1 this is art, 2 I need a FB of this stuff!
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  5. #185

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    E03 has brought me to an interesting place, I'm bored with it.

    So I'm beginning to wonder what that means for me. Was it that there isn't a lot of there there and I'm just tired of over analyzing the olfactory equivalent of a monochromatic study.
    Or is this just not my type of olfactory art? I can recognize the skill but it doesn't grab me.
    I am pretty sure I've smelled it before but I don't think i own it because I think whenever I tried it it didn't grab me enough to want to hang in my perfume gallery.

    Anyone else feeling this way or am i the only one?
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  6. #186

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    E03 has brought me to an interesting place, I'm bored with it.
    I'm not bored with it yet, although I can see how you could be, especially if you wear a full application. I've been wearing it almost every day, but just the smallest amount so that I just catch the scent occasionally.

  7. #187
    Dependent heperd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    E03 has brought me to an interesting place, I'm bored with it.

    So I'm beginning to wonder what that means for me. Was it that there isn't a lot of there there and I'm just tired of over analyzing the olfactory equivalent of a monochromatic study.
    Or is this just not my type of olfactory art? I can recognize the skill but it doesn't grab me.
    I am pretty sure I've smelled it before but I don't think i own it because I think whenever I tried it it didn't grab me enough to want to hang in my perfume gallery.

    Anyone else feeling this way or am i the only one?
    Since I know what it is I can say im bored with it also. I also was bored with it from pretty much the first time i smelled it last year. I knew it smelled really great and was high quality, but thats not enough for me to ... . .... ......
    *BASENOTES SPLITS*
    Tom Ford Oud Fleur, AVENTUS
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  8. #188
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    And also wrote some of my Grey impressions on Katie Puckrick's blog and been laughed at LOL (no group cohesion there that's for sure
    I think it's a fascinating world where one can discuss perfumes gently with the stiffs at the Basenotes Club, or go hang out at Katie's Saloon de Parfum and take your chances on a bit more action!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    What surprised me most was the subjectivity/objectivity of experiencing the juice with a blindfold. For some reason I could keep the blindfold on (that's why I keep falling back to S&M descriptions, this is so familiar!). The discussions here nor Chandler's description really fit my feeling. So I felt free to fly solo and just smell and experience.
    Yes, I'm glad that my blindfold finally stayed on this time!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I really think the juice includes ingredients to which some people may be anosmic to (like the musks). That is the only way I can understand the huge difference between the descriptions.
    I'm getting a lot more than just Chandler's artistic lessons out of these sniffs. I'm learning a great deal about how people as a whole actually perceive things.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    There are 2 things I know for sure: 1 this is art, 2 I need a FB of this stuff!
    You shall soon have your wish! I may opt for a small bottle - we'll see.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    E03 has brought me to an interesting place, I'm bored with it.

    So I'm beginning to wonder what that means for me. Was it that there isn't a lot of there there and I'm just tired of over analyzing the olfactory equivalent of a monochromatic study.
    Or is this just not my type of olfactory art? I can recognize the skill but it doesn't grab me.
    I am pretty sure I've smelled it before but I don't think i own it because I think whenever I tried it it didn't grab me enough to want to hang in my perfume gallery.

    Anyone else feeling this way or am i the only one?
    Absolutely. I'm bored with it in the same way that I am with 80-90% of what I see in any art exhibition. It's one of the pieces which are pleasant and interesting for a moment. Every new picture, sculpture, or presentation brings the fresh possibility of something to fall in love with. But in the end, only a few pieces in the exhibit will stay with me for life. Perhaps one or two will touch me deeply. This was not one of those.

    I was already well-acquainted with S01E01, so that was interesting but nothing new. Chandler's take was an interesting new perspective. S01E03 is also interesting in that it was a great lesson. But the one which affected me most deeply was store-bought Mugler Cologne, approximated by S01E02. MC is one of the pieces I will remember for life.

    I'm already excited about S01E04, to be honest. NEXT! (Seriously, I almost don't give a crap about the reveal. Now THAT is not what I expected.)
    * * * *

  9. #189
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    (Seriously, I almost don't give a crap about the reveal. Now THAT is not what I expected.)
    Cool! So it has become more about the journey than about the destination.

    And isn't that true of most of the sampling and sniffing we do? We just want to experience new smells; this is apart from any wish we may have to acquire new bottles.

  10. #190

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I think it's a fascinating world where one can discuss perfumes gently with the stiffs at the Basenotes Club, or go hang out at Katie's Saloon de Parfum and take your chances on a bit more action!
    I'm already excited about S01E04, to be honest. NEXT! (Seriously, I almost don't give a crap about the reveal. Now THAT is not what I expected.)
    I guess we choose unctuous over arch. It is sad that Katie's Saloon is so dull that the patrons need to come here for entertainment.

    I'm ready for S01E04 too - this was more entertainment than I've gotten from a fragrance in a long time.


    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I really think the juice includes ingredients to which some people may be anosmic to (like the musks). That is the only way I can understand the huge difference between the descriptions.
    I wonder if the musk dissipates on my skin. I hadn't applied any fragrance today, and was sniffing the nozzle on the bottle and it reminded me of L'Air du Rien. BIG musk. But once I apply it on my skin, the citrus and then the woods come to the front, the musk seems to fade.

    I still don't get the cigarette packet/cellophane comparisons. Leather, sure, but not cigarettes unless they're smoking a different kind than I did.

  11. #191
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post
    Cool! So it has become more about the journey than about the destination.

    And isn't that true of most of the sampling and sniffing we do? We just want to experience new smells; this is apart from any wish we may have to acquire new bottles.
    Yes, I'm really happy to have gotten to this stage. I think this is very close to the pure enjoyment of fragrance for its own sake.

    I know there has been criticism of the idea that Chandler hasn't removed ALL of the labeling (or has replaced some of it with his own), but I have to say - removing 95% of it works wonders.

    And that last 5% is debatable. Yes, it's true that these fragrances are slightly tinged with "Chandler thinks they're worthy". But honestly - if that's 5% labeling, nobody is reading that part of the label anyway. I see nothing but disagreement with authority day in and day out on Basenotes. Only the n00biest of n00bs cares what anybody else thinks. We only work on how to be more diplomatic in our disagreement. Honesty in fragrance is the hallmark of the post-n00b. So I contend that the label is utterly gone.

    Some of that is undoubtedly due to the fact that there is one teacher and a hell of a lot of us class rowdies in here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I guess we choose unctuous over arch. It is sad that Katie's Saloon is so dull that the patrons need to come here for entertainment.


    Has the Anonymous Kid been shooting up the floors again over at Katie's place? Tarnation!

    Seriously, I looked over there and didn't see any LOLs at Irina - somebody must have cleaned up the mess.

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I'm ready for S01E04 too - this was more entertainment than I've gotten from a fragrance in a long time.
    Yes - I have paid a lot more and gotten a lot less out of fragrances. This is working for me!

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I wonder if the musk dissipates on my skin. I hadn't applied any fragrance today, and was sniffing the nozzle on the bottle and it reminded me of L'Air du Rien. BIG musk. But once I apply it on my skin, the citrus and then the woods come to the front, the musk seems to fade.

    I still don't get the cigarette packet/cellophane comparisons. Leather, sure, but not cigarettes unless they're smoking a different kind than I did.
    There is a real nozzle-smell on this stuff. I didn't realize what it was, though. Very interesting.

    LOL - the cigarette thing is something I got, too, but I really had to try to recall that smell you get right when you open up the cellophane. A very faint paper/tobacco, that is a real distortion of the smell of the cigs themselves. I think it makes a good analogy for me at least, because the tobacco note is so faint to my nose.
    * * * *

  12. #192
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I think it's a fascinating world where one can discuss perfumes gently with the stiffs at the Basenotes Club, or go hang out at Katie's Saloon de Parfum and take your chances on a bit more action!
    Actually, I was thinking about this recently.

    Katie has said she's not going to run a thread on SO1E04. She only just received a decanted sample of #3 a few days ago. ( She lives in the UK now ?)

    And absolutely nothing is going on on Chandler's OpenSky FB thread.

    So I was wondering.....if BN is the only place where any real discussion is going on, and Chandler is mostly hooked up with OpenSky, will he feel that the project is worth moving forward with ?

    Maybe there's some other location where there's a discussion going on. I'm not sure. Perhaps there is.

    But if we're the only one, will Chandler still think it's worth it to continue ?

  13. #193
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    Actually, I was thinking about this recently.

    Katie has said she's not going to run a thread on SO1E04. She only just received a decanted sample of #3 a few days ago. ( She lives in the UK now ?)

    And absolutely nothing is going on on Chandler's OpenSky FB thread.

    So I was wondering.....if BN is the only place where any real discussion is going on, and Chandler is mostly hooked up with OpenSky, will he feel that the project is worth moving forward with ?

    Maybe there's some other location where there's a discussion going on. I'm not sure. Perhaps there is.

    But if we're the only one, will Chandler still think it's worth it to continue ?
    The show must go on!

    Seriously, a good question - but I think it will go on. Remember - there are a lot of lurkers. And each new fragrance is its own story. If the next one looks like a style that's been neglected so far, there could be a real spike in interest.

    So I do hope there is an S01E04. Very much!

    More than that, the show is going on in two more ways I just found out about:

    (1) The Museum is organizing a sniffing event in NYC in September, in conjunction with IFF. I just got an email about it. I am certain that some of the people who are either on this thread or following it will want to go. I will probably post a thread about this later. If I can possibly convince any of you people to do this, I will try. This is priced right for people like us - they have to be taking a loss on this, but it's basically for the Museum. I will just say this for now - I have met the people who are doing this thing, and they're wonderful, amazing folks, who you read about in my articles. This is your chance to meet them and learn from them. This is much more nerdy and of interest to perfumistas than the next item, though some of the die-hards will love that, too.

    Here is info for the event in question. If you are interested, PM me a regular email address, and I will auto-forward the email I got (it has a forwarding link). They need 20 people minimum and 30 maximum. I don't know if they even have openings still, but I just got it, so......


    Indulge your senses with a visit to the IFF International Flavors & Fragrances Headquarters with an expert perfumer in New York City; enjoy a private tour by a Director at the IFF Botanical Garden near the New Jersey shoreline; and end the day with a ‘scent-based’ spirits pairing and creation of a scent profile at MiN New York in SoHo!

    $200 MAD Members/$240 Non-Members

    To register, please download the registration form here. A completed registration form and full
    payment must be received by Friday, September 14, 2012. Please e-mail completed form to patrons@madmuseum.org or fax to 212.299.7701. For trip-related questions, please contact
    Lauren Gibbs at 212.299.7732.
    Like I said - highly recommended. I hope they fill it up.

    (2) The Museum has just announced the opening gala for the Art of Scent exhibit. A bit pricey - this is more for people who want to be patrons of the Museum and schmooze with the olfactorati. It includes one of Chandler's famous scent dinners. Now this thing may be a little ritzy for some of us, but the normal opening day should be at roughly the same time, I'd gather, and that presumably isn't going to be as exclusive. But if you've ever had a hankering to get close to the core of perfumery in a big way, no chance like this one. This is a big deal.

    http://madmuseum.org/events/visionaries-gala

    This is in late November. My boss says I have to take some vacation this year, so I'm probably hitting either the IFF trip or the exhibit opening. (My wife will bean me over the head if I even talk about the gala event!)
    * * * *

  14. #194
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    I think the majority of the people participating in this are doing it quietly by themselves. The other perfume blogs and such seem to be getting lots of comments after the reveal, but it looks like we're the ones talking about it the most during the actual sniffs.

    I'm not necessarily bored with Untitled 3, but it's lost some of its luster. I feel like I know it now. I've lived with it in different quantities and in different weather and I think I basically understand it. I've completely lost Chandler's tuning fork analogy, as it has three very distinct and very different stages on me (tutti fruity top, metallic aquatic middle, and sweet spiced patchouli base) - whatever it was that felt like a synthetic "spike" running through the life of the fragrance is now lost to me, as though I only sensed it at first because I'd been told to. I also no longer think of it as a citrus aquatic (I think that was me struggling to make it more like my first incorrect guess). Honestly, I'd call it a fruity floral at this point, though the flowers are hidden (jasmine for sweetness, maybe some of those aquatic chemicals are lilac or something...).

    I had a couple of hours in the city this afternoon and made a point of sniffing all the guesses people had posted here. Honestly, now that we've all abandoned our first guesses, there's really no reason to speak in code any more, but those who don't even want what-it's-not spoilers may want to stop reading now....

    So, my first guess was Happy For Men. Yes, I know. But it eventually failed because Happy was more citrus-driven and not tropical like Untitled, and Happy ended up having more of a tuning-fork synthetic spike to it than Untitled, also. I actually believe, in all honesty, that Happy was a much better fit for Chandler's descriptions than Untitled 3. A quick trip through Barneys verified that this really isn't Cologne Bigarade. CB has Ellena's signature oranges with cumin and is simultaneously simpler and smarter than Untitled 3. And Eau de Merveilles has that signature Eau de Merveilles smell, that 3-D day-glo moss that defines it, which isn't at all like Untitled 3. I thought of Byredo Pulp, but that turned out to be basically just a yuzu bomb, so that didn't match either.

    Honestly, I have no idea what this is. If Chandler hadn't specifically said it was niche, I'd be sniffing the Escada counter at Macys and hunting down Paris Hilton flankers.

    Honestly, the thing I'm most looking forward to about the reveal is seeing where I was wrong. With Mugler Cologne, I've always considered it a benchmark for neroli + vetiver, and I missed the neroli sniffing it blind and thus had no idea what it was. I want to know what I'm missing now. Is there fig in there? This isn't Womanity, is it? A huge slug of rose that I'm missing? I'm looking forward to the embarrassing facepalm and the learning opportunity that will hopefully happen at the reveal.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  15. #195

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I'm looking forward to the embarrassing facepalm and the learning opportunity that will hopefully happen at the reveal.
    Me too!

    I'm feeling a bit under the weather since last night, so my emotions are a bit wacky atm. It's 'alone in the lab day' today so pretty slow and tedious and I can't smell much or talk to colleagues. But 4 other colleagues (1 of them just like me in training and 3 others from different departments) did smell E03 without any idea of what it might be. The reactions were as varied as here from: 'yuck lemon cigarettes' to 'cheap cologne' to 'hm interesting'.
    Sure the technical part was not so difficult, although the musk is a mixture, not just Globalide + Habanolide+Helvetolide, that made us budding perfumers think 'white musk' and Alberto Morillas (which is funny as he also did MC!). Unfortunately I do not own any Comme des Garcons, as that was the direction I was looking into, but couldn't get any samples in such short notice.

    And then I came home and felt tired and not well so I switched off my technical analytic brain and just sniffed and enjoyed.
    Truly E03 puts a huge smile on my face, makes me feel happy and sexy and 'wanting' (I really try to keep it real, guys, without embarrassing myself as I did on Katie's blog *blush*)

    I really hope the project will go on! I know I will do my best to keep on participating and writing about it here and in the group.
    As for the IFF tour in NY I truly recommend it to everyone, it's mind blowing! (Red, wasn't you that wrote that lovely article about it?)

    Okay, need to get back to work.
    Laters baby
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  16. #196
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I think the majority of the people participating in this are doing it quietly by themselves.
    Me too!

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I'm not necessarily bored with Untitled 3, but it's lost some of its luster. I feel like I know it now. I've lived with it in different quantities and in different weather and I think I basically understand it. I've completely lost Chandler's tuning fork analogy, as it has three very distinct and very different stages on me (tutti fruity top, metallic aquatic middle, and sweet spiced patchouli base) - whatever it was that felt like a synthetic "spike" running through the life of the fragrance is now lost to me, as though I only sensed it at first because I'd been told to. I also no longer think of it as a citrus aquatic (I think that was me struggling to make it more like my first incorrect guess). Honestly, I'd call it a fruity floral at this point, though the flowers are hidden (jasmine for sweetness, maybe some of those aquatic chemicals are lilac or something...).
    I really wanted to stay focused on the tuning fork, so I intentionally avoided defocusing. You were braver than I was.

    Did. Not. Look at your guesses - except for the first.

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I'm looking forward to the embarrassing facepalm and the learning opportunity that will hopefully happen at the reveal.
    LOL! Here's to many embarrassing facepalms!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Truly E03 puts a huge smile on my face, makes me feel happy and sexy and 'wanting' (I really try to keep it real, guys, without embarrassing myself as I did on Katie's blog *blush*)
    In the end, I think that most people are not so embarrassed for others saying how they feel, as they are for realizing that they themselves don't have the courage of the perfumer. Blush on, Sister!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I really hope the project will go on! I know I will do my best to keep on participating and writing about it here and in the group.
    As for the IFF tour in NY I truly recommend it to everyone, it's mind blowing! (Red, wasn't you that wrote that lovely article about it?)

    Okay, need to get back to work.
    Laters baby
    Yes - I met Veronique at the Speed Smelling event, and Ron, the headmaster of their perfumery school, when I visited the Manhattan Creative Center. This is like getting to live that article, only more. This time, I think the day includes the botanical gardens, some actual lab sniffing with Ron, and something else I dare not look up on my iPad, or I'll lose this post. And then it ends up with a private scent party at MiN, basically. The full agenda is in that email - that's why I'm offering to forward it. My visit to IFF was something of a life-changing event as a perfumista. That's why I'm so encouraging on this. This would be an ultimate fragrance vacation, and reasonably priced, too. Noseneyland vacation!
    * * * *

  17. #197

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    LOL Red! I plainly asked on Katie's blog what 'anonymous' + Dan meant by calling the BN bunch here "unctuous", as I had to look the damned word up Basically they call us 'ass-kissers' which I thought it was rather rude and made me feel stupid, that I even shared there. Aka 'double face palm'

    Anyways yes, I totally agree, the IFF NY bunch are very lovely indeed. The whole insiders experience with the perfume industry made me change so many of my previous views on commercialization, mass fragrance, perfumers, IFRA. Now I simply cannot longer give any fragrance a thumbs down, I'm just in awe. So ok, maybe Katie's saloon was right: I love me some ass-kissing LOL

    Also looking forward to the other BN blind sniff, see if even without CB's endorsement I can still enjoy the blindfold.

    (peace out with another whiff of E03, hmmmmm so yummmm!)
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  18. #198

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Hello fellow unctuous fans of Untitled.

    I have some news which I hope will be embraced by the people on this thread. Chandler would really like some questions from the people who have been actively talking about this project before the reveal next Tuesday. I told Chandler most of us were really sick of all the Open Sky spam we've received. So he has created an e-mail to encourage questions prior to the reveal. He is ready to take any and all questions we might have including criticisms. By sending them in before the reveal it will allow for Chandler to make sure he actually can spend appropriate time to answer some of them. All he asks is that you use a first name and the city you live in.
    The e-mail address is: cbuntitled@gmail.com
    I know there will be a question from Mark in Poolesville, MD about the verbal packaging.
    I hope everyone else will join in and add in their questions because I believe it is this group of people who can really help illuminate this project to the people who watch the Spreecast.
    There has been a lot of great conversation here let's share it with those who are not Basenoters.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  19. #199
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    LOL Red! I plainly asked on Katie's blog what 'anonymous' + Dan meant by calling the BN bunch here "unctuous", as I had to look the damned word up Basically they call us 'ass-kissers' which I thought it was rather rude and made me feel stupid, that I even shared there. Aka 'double face palm'
    Dictionary attack!

    I respond with.....

    Thesa[u]ron!


    Go, Thesauron! Beat Team Redact!



    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Anyways yes, I totally agree, the IFF NY bunch are very lovely indeed. The whole insiders experience with the perfume industry made me change so many of my previous views on commercialization, mass fragrance, perfumers, IFRA. Now I simply cannot longer give any fragrance a thumbs down, I'm just in awe.
    You're right. The more one knows about the effort and care (even love) that goes into fragrances in general, the easier it is to respect not only other people's pet fragrances, but even all the "stuff" that surrounds making them on a massive scale.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    So ok, maybe Katie's saloon was right: I love me some ass-kissing LOL
    LOL!

    Honestly, we haven't been THAT nice to Chandler. I mean, we talk about him as if he isn't even in the room. Doing the same to the guy in the next cube at work would be rude as hell.

    Although I have to admit that I *love* the word unctuous. There should be no leather hotpants that are not completely "unctuous" (having a "greasy" or "soapy" feel). Oh, ___yeah___.

    Hmmm. Maybe they intended unctuous as a compliment!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Also looking forward to the other BN blind sniff, see if even without CB's endorsement I can still enjoy the blindfold.

    (peace out with another whiff of E03, hmmmmm so yummmm!)
    Yes, blind sniffage is very "in" right now, that is FOR SURE!

    Go get 'em!

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Hello fellow unctuous fans of Untitled.
    This word is definitely getting some play!

    I'm wondering if dictuous and trictuous might be even more the "playas"!

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    I have some news which I hope will be embraced by the people on this thread. Chandler would really like some questions from the people who have been actively talking about this project before the reveal next Tuesday. I told Chandler most of us were really sick of all the Open Sky spam we've received. So he has created an e-mail to encourage questions prior to the reveal. He is ready to take any and all questions we might have including criticisms. By sending them in before the reveal it will allow for Chandler to make sure he actually can spend appropriate time to answer some of them. All he asks is that you use a first name and the city you live in.
    The e-mail address is: cbuntitled@gmail.com
    I know there will be a question from Mark in Poolesville, MD about the verbal packaging.
    I hope everyone else will join in and add in their questions because I believe it is this group of people who can really help illuminate this project to the people who watch the Spreecast.
    There has been a lot of great conversation here let's share it with those who are not Basenoters.
    Awesome! Great idea. Thanks for getting the word to us on this, Mark. I have a couple of questions I definitely want to ask!
    * * * *

  20. #200

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Thanks for getting the word to us on this, Mark. I have a couple of questions I definitely want to ask!
    I want to add, guys, that no one's limited to questions. Comment on E03, or E02 or E01 as well, or on the philosophy of the series or on the artists' other works, critique, describe, whatever you want. Mark and I will respond live. He or I may disagree with you, and we'll say so, but we may also agree that you've made the most insightful comment about the work in the entire discussion. Bring it.

  21. #201

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Dictionary attack!

    I respond with.....

    Thesa[u]ron!


    Go, Thesauron! Beat Team Redact!


    LOL, Red that is so funny, gooooo team! (now I must find out if I can get me some of thesaron to smell!)

    Even now more relevant as the topic on Katie's blog is now closed for comments and she won't be participating in the reveal! *jaw drop* I will ask Chandler about that, although I might have an idea why. Together with many
    other questions Hope to get it done before the deadline of the reveal!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    You're right. The more one knows about the effort and care (even love) that goes into fragrances in general, the easier it is to respect not only other people's pet fragrances, but even all the "stuff" that surrounds making them on a massive scale.
    Totally agree!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    There should be no leather hotpants that are not completely "unctuous" (having a "greasy" or "soapy" feel). Oh, ___yeah___.
    You're killing me LMAO, I do love me some ass-kissing leather
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  22. #202
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    When is the reveal scheduled for? I've been searching online but don't see it.

  23. #203

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post
    When is the reveal scheduled for? I've been searching online but don't see it.
    According to post #198, the reveal will be on Tuesday. Presumably because Monday is a holiday.

  24. #204
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Oh, thanks!

  25. #205

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    According to post #198, the reveal will be on Tuesday. Presumably because Monday is a holiday.
    Ow I missed that too, thank you for the reminder. That is rather late, meaning that E04 would possible be released on September 5th, at the soonest. Looking forward on what CB has to say, I emailed a few questions.

    The first perfume strip with E03 on it is still smelly after 4 days!, so the longevity is great, probably due to Ambroxan as one of the base ingredients, which also explains the faint paper and tobacco notes better to me.
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  26. #206

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    I was reading a thread on Katie's blog yesterday about SE01e03 and now I think it is gone. I did a search of her blog, no thread....

    http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/se...e01e03&x=0&y=0

    Does she typically remove threads that relate to the series?

    More on point, I did receive a sample. I must admit I am new to analyzing fragrance [my articulation cannot match yours]. My first experience gave me a shrill blast that had an unpleasant linger. As I was about to get into a car for a two-hour trip with others, I went light with application. It seemed disjointed (I don't get the tuning analogy from this either) and there is an unpleasant chemical note that will not fade. Perhaps my appreciation for the technical virtuosity of that quality is underdeveloped.

    As my last two experiences with the project weren't pleasant (Mungler wasn't my taste at all), I'm abandoning ship.
    Last edited by patentgeek; 1st September 2012 at 12:37 PM.

  27. #207

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by patentgeek View Post
    I was reading a thread on Katie's blog yesterday about SE01e03 and now I think it is gone. I did a search of her blog, no thread....

    http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/se...e01e03&x=0&y=0
    Yes, I believe there was some kind of drama between CB and Katie and now she deleted everything and won't participate in any way. It's a pity really. But I guess that is how internet and ego's work
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  28. #208

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    The Museum is organizing a sniffing event in NYC in September
    There's also a few more less-expensive hands-on MAD events in Oct/Nov in The Olfactory Engineering Series The first is the same weekend as Sniffapalooza.

    More interestingly, C.Burr is hosting a pay-as-you-wish opening event:
    Friday, November 16, 2012 - 6:30 pm Lobby, MAD
    Discover The Art of Scent with curator Chandler Burr as your guide. As he discusses the works showcased in this exhibition, Burr will illuminate the breakthrough process of creating this first-of-its-kind presentation of olfactory art.

    And the night before there's a talk with Burr and Sumit Bhasin: The Theater at MAD
    Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 7:30 pm,
    $15 general / $10 members
    Tracing the history of raw materials, their use, and the evolution of natural and synthetic materials in scent, Chandler Burr, curator of the recently opened exhibition Scent, joins leading figure in the world of perfume, Sumit Bhasin, for an evening long participatory lecture. Presenting the audience with samples of these raw materials, Burr and Bhasin will discuss the astonishing growth of the olfactory palette and the way these new materials have changed the works of scent art.


    - - - Updated - - -

    Potentially more on-topic:
    After rereading Ellena's little book on perfume, if this is his work, I will find a hat and eat it.
    Last edited by Friede; 1st September 2012 at 01:58 PM.
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  29. #209
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by patentgeek View Post
    I was reading a thread on Katie's blog yesterday about SE01e03 and now I think it is gone. I did a search of her blog, no thread....

    http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/se...e01e03&x=0&y=0

    Does she typically remove threads that relate to the series?

    More on point, I did receive a sample. I must admit I am new to analyzing fragrance [my articulation cannot match yours]. My first experience gave me a shrill blast that had an unpleasant linger. As I was about to get into a car for a two-hour trip with others, I went light with application. It seemed disjointed (I don't get the tuning analogy from this either) and there is an unpleasant chemical note that will not fade. Perhaps my appreciation for the technical virtuosity of that quality is underdeveloped.

    As my last two experiences with the project weren't pleasant (Mungler wasn't my taste at all), I'm abandoning ship.
    Sorry that it's not working for you. If it's any consolation, I think that the point of these examinations isn't necessarily to enjoy the fragrances, as it is to find and recognize patterns that somebody else has seen, and which are tightly coupled with both creative intention and technical innovation. So don't feel bad at all for not finding these compositions pleasant. Even as I find both interesting and pleasant aspects, I am running into unpleasant ones at the same time.

    And don't be hard on yourself. I contend that all humans are basically nose-blind, or at least unable to interpret olfactory signals with any real power.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Yes, I believe there was some kind of drama between CB and Katie and now she deleted everything and won't participate in any way. It's a pity really. But I guess that is how internet and ego's work
    Whatever the reason, I will continue to love Katie no matter what. She is a breath of fresh air in the olfactory world, and is the Aphrodite of my olfactory pantheon. Whatever happens in her perfumed clouds, nobody can change how I feel about her, or what she has done for fragrance.

    I hope that nothing we said or did here contributed to this, though I suspect it would be impossible for us not to have affected things in some ways. Just for clarification, in case it wasn't obvious, my reference to "Katie's Saloon" was perhaps more of a compliment than everybody realized. Nobody who understands my roots would doubt that. I truly appreciate the fact that there was a livelier place than Basenotes where this was being discussed, even if I'm a bit too sensitive to go there. Deep down, I guess I'm a bit of a tenderfoot, and afraid to venture into the livelier parts of town. But if Katie wishes to reconsider reposting her threads, I would be completely behind it. The fragrant world cannot be anything but a lonelier place without her, and her posse.

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    There's also a few more less-expensive hands-on MAD events in Oct/Nov in The Olfactory Engineering Series The first is the same weekend as Sniffapalooza.

    More interestingly, C.Burr is hosting a pay-as-you-wish opening event:
    Friday, November 16, 2012 - 6:30 pm Lobby, MAD
    Discover The Art of Scent with curator Chandler Burr as your guide. As he discusses the works showcased in this exhibition, Burr will illuminate the breakthrough process of creating this first-of-its-kind presentation of olfactory art.

    And the night before there's a talk with Burr and Sumit Bhasin: The Theater at MAD
    Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 7:30 pm,
    $15 general / $10 members
    Tracing the history of raw materials, their use, and the evolution of natural and synthetic materials in scent, Chandler Burr, curator of the recently opened exhibition Scent, joins leading figure in the world of perfume, Sumit Bhasin, for an evening long participatory lecture. Presenting the audience with samples of these raw materials, Burr and Bhasin will discuss the astonishing growth of the olfactory palette and the way these new materials have changed the works of scent art.
    Bless you, Friede! My wife is already putting her foot down on those more expensive options, and I like being married too much to try moving it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    Potentially more on-topic:
    After rereading Ellena's little book on perfume, if this is his work, I will find a hat and eat it.
    LOL!!! I hear you, but I'd also love to hear you elaborate after the reveal!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Looks like I'm signed up for the talk tickets, so I'll be there for the opening event, too. I've been waiting for this for a long time. Wouldn't miss it for the world.

    WOO-HOO! I'm excited already!

    - - - Updated - - -

    And one more off-topic thought. If anybody in NYC can possibly get to these classes in that Olfactory Engineering series, you absolutely must consider it. OMG. This is like taking hands-on, painting appreciation classes with living masters. My jaw simply drops. If I lived there, I would have signed up yesterday.

    Visitors to the city should note that these are on Saturday afternoons as well.

    Wow.
    * * * *

  30. #210

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    If it's any consolation, I think that the point of these examinations isn't necessarily to enjoy the fragrances, as it is to find and recognize patterns that somebody else has seen, and which are tightly coupled with both creative intention and technical innovation. So don't feel bad at all for not finding these compositions pleasant. Even as I find both interesting and pleasant aspects, I am running into unpleasant ones at the same time.
    And don't be hard on yourself. I contend that all humans are basically nose-blind, or at least unable to interpret olfactory signals with any real power.
    Very true, well said, Red!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Whatever the reason, I will continue to love Katie no matter what. She is a breath of fresh air in the olfactory world, and is the Aphrodite of my olfactory pantheon. Whatever happens in her perfumed clouds, nobody can change how I feel about her, or what she has done for fragrance.

    I hope that nothing we said or did here contributed to this, though I suspect it would be impossible for us not to have affected things in some ways. Just for clarification, in case it wasn't obvious, my reference to "Katie's Saloon" was perhaps more of a compliment than everybody realized. Nobody who understands my roots would doubt that. I truly appreciate the fact that there was a livelier place than Basenotes where this was being discussed, even if I'm a bit too sensitive to go there. Deep down, I guess I'm a bit of a tenderfoot, and afraid to venture into the livelier parts of town. But if Katie wishes to reconsider reposting her threads, I would be completely behind it. The fragrant world cannot be anything but a lonelier place without her, and her posse.
    I do feel disappointed by the deletion too, especially as there are not many places on the net that discuss this project. When she announced that it was going to be her last thread on the project, I told her she will be missed. Her blog (and perfume blogs in general) are pretty new to me, I find myself lacking time and patience to keep up with so many of them. And just like you I'm too sensitive to take upon venturing in open space on the net with trolls etc. (I found that one 'anonymous' person bulldozing over her Untitled Series threads rather unpleasant). I do like her video's, although time is not on my side to watch them all. But I do like her style and her way of describing fragrance, her vid on Secretions Magnifique is hilarious!

    I think it was that anonymous + Dan that began the drama by calling the BN discussion "unctuous" and that rubbed me personally the wrong way. Especially as I was feeling so courageous and proud of myself of sharing my emotions there!
    Then CB offered the possibility for us to email him questions directly and I believe she felt dismissed in some way and acted upon those emotions.
    It's her blog, so I guess it's her right to do so.

    This whole episode seems to unfortunately be surrounded by drama, I hope CB takes notice and will take some effort in putting things straight.
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  31. #211

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    The first perfume strip with E03 on it is still smelly after 4 days!, so the longevity is great, probably due to Ambroxan as one of the base ingredients, which also explains the faint paper and tobacco notes better to me.
    Ambroxan or Ambrox? Are they different chemicals, or just different brand names for the same chemical? Is Ambroxan always a really big woody-amber note in fragrance, or is it scale-able? I agree that this seems to account for the persistent basenote in S01E03.

  32. #212

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Ambroxan or Ambrox? Are they different chemicals, or just different brand names for the same chemical? Is Ambroxan always a really big woody-amber note in fragrance, or is it scale-able? I agree that this seems to account for the persistent basenote in S01E03.
    Ambroxan has many different names:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1016071.html

    However I don't think it's only Ambroxan (if you want to smell fumes really heavy on it try Amber Gris by Balmain or Not a perfume by Juliette Has a Gun). Imho it's a clever combination of macrocyclic musks, Iso E Super, cedramber, kephalis and Ambroxan. To make it even more complicated there are some patented mixtures (also called perfumers bases) of these and more single aromachemicals. Teak (by Firmenich) is such an example.
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/pb1024771.html

    If you are curious about the odor profiles on the above aromachems,
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/
    is the best open source available on the net.
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  33. #213
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    The first perfume strip with E03 on it is still smelly after 4 days!, so the longevity is great,
    No problems with persistence, that's for sure. I could put it on at noon, have a long bath in the evening, and still clearly smell it as a skin scent at breakfast the next day.

  34. #214

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Ambroxan has many different names:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1016071.html

    However I don't think it's only Ambroxan (if you want to smell fumes really heavy on it try Amber Gris by Balmain or Not a perfume by Juliette Has a Gun). Imho it's a clever combination of macrocyclic musks, Iso E Super, cedramber, kephalis and Ambroxan. To make it even more complicated there are some patented mixtures (also called perfumers bases) of these and more single aromachemicals. Teak (by Firmenich) is such an example.
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/pb1024771.html

    If you are curious about the odor profiles on the above aromachems,
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/
    is the best open source available on the net.
    I had forgotten about Balmain Ambergris. I should do a side by side of that and S01E03.

  35. #215

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Ow and if you'd like to experience something similar regarding the big macrocylcic musks, try smelling these too side by side with E03:
    -Emporio Armani White For Her
    -L'Artisan Parfumeur's Mûre et Musc
    -Bvlgari Omnia
    Last edited by Irina; 3rd September 2012 at 07:11 AM.
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  36. #216
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    I was trying things today, and I got a big shock when I smelled Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles. I thought that it was very similar to S01E03. However, ECdM just seems nicer. There is the same sort of citrus burst in the beginning, followed by a long tone, but it was just *nicer* than S01E03. And I think that Hermès was still a designer - at least it was, the last time I checked - even though their prices are a bit niche.

    The tension mounts.......!!! *bites nails*
    * * * *

  37. #217

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I was trying things today, and I got a big shock when I smelled Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles. I thought that it was very similar to S01E03. However, ECdM just seems nicer. There is the same sort of citrus burst in the beginning, followed by a long tone, but it was just *nicer* than S01E03. And I think that Hermès was still a designer - at least it was, the last time I checked - even though their prices are a bit niche.

    The tension mounts.......!!! *bites nails*
    Ha! I knew there was an Eau des Merveilles - like note in there

  38. #218
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Watch the reveal and live chat, 12:00 Eastern time.

    Here, as I understand : https://opensky.com/chandlerburr

    - - - Updated - - -

    And the answer is....

    http://www.basenotes.net/ID26135380.html

    Here's their website :

    http://arquiste.com/website/fragance_let.php
    Last edited by Birdboy48; 4th September 2012 at 04:45 PM.

  39. #219

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    My very first, undiluted reaction, while freezing to death in a Connecticut archive looking at perfume and snuff recipes, overdue for lunch, is:

    So the first niche perfume, with all the fuss and bother surrounding its production/delivery...

    ...is something I got in my June Birchbox? Seriously?


    My second reaction (to the "label" of E04) is: fair price, but is every month of this series going to be "water-washed green" and/or "transparent"? I'm not sure whether this is an intentional comparative/grouping move, or whether Burr is showing a very specific through-line of his taste.

    In the latter case this becomes "if you liked XYZ picks of Chandler's, buy ____" -- which is a very OpenSky move, but not as compelling to me as say, socking away my cash for NYC next month...
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  40. #220
    Dependent forfreddie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    My second reaction (to the "label" of E04) is: fair price, but is every month of this series going to be "water-washed green" and/or "transparent"?
    This is what is majorly putting me off joining in - every choice seems to be done with a JCE style transparency - that's my Satan of fragrances.

    Looking forward to reading people's reactions to the reveal though.

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Well I'm relieved.
    When Chandler started saying Rodrigo and Yann did E03 I was frantically flipping through my mental rolodex thinking noooooo this is going to be something I thought I liked.
    When he said Arquiste I knew immediately it was the one I liked least and probably because I picked up on the unpleasant buzz and didn't try to force it.
    For what it is worth the the Arquiste line is well worth seeking out as the other five fragrances are things I truly enjoy but my two favorites are Anima Dulcis and Infanta en Flor.
    I am actually very encouraged that Arquiste was part of Birchbox because I think this line deserves a bit wider recognition.
    What did everyone else think about Arquiste L'Etrog?
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Hmmm.... Etrog.

    Somehow this feels anticlimactic. I had tried Etrog when it first hit Barneys (I even have a sample of it from them that I haven't worn yet) and it struck me as sweet citrus. Not to be a troll, but the whole line seemed professionally executed but kind of unnecessary in that it just rehashed proven niche genres without adding much to the conversation (though, to be fair, I feel this way about most niche lines that turn up from nowhere with a bunch of $200 scents that all kind of smell like every other niche line that turned up from nowhere with a bunch of $200 scents).

    It was an interesting ride, though. Mostly getting over the "Chandler likes it so it must be brilliant" prejudice and getting to know it to a point where I was confident that I didn't think it was that great. I was hoping it would turn out to be something really unexpected like a Chanel Exclusif or a forgotten Lutens, where I'd have to really re-sniff it.

    As I felt like I was really getting to know Untitled 3, once I had decided that it smelled to me like something Escada or Paris Hilton would do, I gave up trying to guess what it was, thinking to myself that there are so many unremarkable niche lines filled with fruity florals and stuff like this that I largely ignore. Arquiste even came to mind as an example of one of these lines (along with Mandarina Duck and Odin and a bunch of the other space-filler at Barneys). Oh well.
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Baffled... Never heard of the line, nor the perfumers. So I guess this goes into my 'to explore' list Glad to see that I wasn't too far off on identifying the notes/house.
    I need to see where I can buy it around here. And try the other scents as well. This is an expensive line indeed.

    This broadcast was very revealing on 'the how to' of CB's curator-ship.

    I love the transparency that he talks about. I think it's indeed the way olfactory art is moving towards.
    I also love the idea that the series will be available worldwide. And that it focuses on formally trained perfumer artists.

    Not so sure about the way he prefers to talk about olfactory art. I don't think I can fully grasp what he means. The industry jargon is a no-no, just like talking about notes and odor profiles. It seems to be mainly visually focused.
    That makes me insecure in how and if I can still join the discussion on the series.

    I do love the image of 'Inception' the movie as a descriptor of E03. It really fits.

    And am very intrigued by E04. But need to sleep on it. There is something about this broadcast that got me thinking, a feeling I can't shake.
    We'll see.

    Off to bed now, till soon
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    When he said Arquiste I knew immediately it was the one I liked least.....
    What did everyone else think about Arquiste L'Etrog?
    Personally, as someone who worries about having an untrained nose, the fact that a good percentage of people who's noses I respect, find themselves disagreeing with the curator's opinions and interpretations has really helped me have more faith in my own opinions about things. The project is interesting, but it's also helping me feel less intimidated by the idea that somehow I'm a total clod in missing out on all these wonderful aspects that "the experts" speak about. Plenty of educated noses can't mangae to dredge them up either, even in the face of Chandler's prompting, so this shared experience is helping me feel better about the validity of my own impressions.

    And I do think the fact that it's a blind sniffing helps us be more objective about the thing. I saw a number of reviews which were preceded by the fume-makers romantic blurb, and sure enough, a fair percentage of the reviewers found themselves in a palm-fronded hut in rustic Italy. So it's pretty clear to me that the blind aspect of this project does help us see the thing for what it is....for each of us individually.

    One thing that did surprise me is that this thing is apparently being sold as a primarily citrus type of creation. An "Etrog" is some sort of a largish lemon looking thing, and to my mind the frag never really came into it's own until the citrus had passed.

    And dates ? I did not hear anyone mention them in the thread, but now that I've been told they are supposed to be there....I suspect I'll find myself smelling them soon enough.

    As to Chandler's references to the logistics of the thing, he mentions "the shipper" several times, which tells me that he never actually has the bottles in his possession, and that almost every practical aspect of the project is out of his hands. His very brief reference to problems with S01E02 leads me to believe there was more to the "weak juice" part of that one than he cared to admit.

    And I'm sure I was not the only one to let out a guffaw when, after apologizing for the slow shipping, and initially telling everyone that #4 was ready to go, after mumblings from the OS rep offstage, he reassured everyone that they'd be receiving #4 "within two weeks".

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    My second reaction (to the "label" of E04) is: fair price, but is every month of this series going to be "water-washed green" and/or "transparent"? I'm not sure whether this is an intentional comparative/grouping move, or whether Burr is showing a very specific through-line of his taste.
    I was thinking along these lines the other day while watching Project Runway(I know, I know...). Some of the designers have a specific aesthetic, but they put their spin on many different looks. And then there are the designers that have made the exact same dress 3 weeks in a row, they just change the color every week. At some point, you stop caring where the garment is well done. You just start wishing for something different.

    I have great respect for Chandler's taste, and sincerely hope that we are treated to a wide cross-section of it. Especially as a newbie, I would love it if the Untitled Series were run like an introductory art appreciation class. Regardless of whether the teacher loves post-modernists, I don't want a class that is 90% about postmodernism. I would love to emerge from the class feeling like I learned about a wide range of styles and movements.

    Perhaps it is a bit too early in the series to be worried about it, but just from reading The Perfect Scent, it is apparent that Chandler Burr appreciates a wide variety of scents. Here's hoping that we are treated to that variety in this series.
    The question that women casually shopping for perfume ask more than any other is this: "What scent drives men wild?" After years of intense research, we know the definitive answer. It is bacon. Now, on to the far more interesting subject of perfume.
    ― Tania Sanchez, Perfumes: The Guide

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    My second reaction (to the "label" of E04) is: fair price, but is every month of this series going to be "water-washed green" and/or "transparent"? I'm not sure whether this is an intentional comparative/grouping move, or whether Burr is showing a very specific through-line of his taste.

    In the latter case this becomes "if you liked XYZ picks of Chandler's, buy ____" -- which is a very OpenSky move, but not as compelling to me as say, socking away my cash for NYC next month...
    I hear you on saving for NYC. However, I think I'm so addicted to this series, that I'm willing to forgo something else (like a weekend trip or two) to scrape up the cash needed for an unexpected vacation.

    I feel that Chandler is rather unapologetically showing us what he regards as moving works - and his taste is clearly shining through. I admit that he is perfectly entitled to do that, and for an inaugural "virtual exhibit" of this kind, I think that doing what he - personally - wants, rather than a balanced mix of styles, is probably the best choice, given the uncertainty of it all. Still, I understand why some folks would prefer more balance.

    I have mixed feelings about what he said in dismissing all-natural perfumery - something along the lines of "not interested". He didn't so much call it unimportant, but he implied it by saying he was sticking to important works. I agree that this is not the time and place for natural and small artisan stuff. But it would have been a perfect opportunity to get those folks on board by speaking to the future, and implying that they will someday find a bit of shelter and respect - even just a smidgeon - in the MAD. (Ca Fleure Bon is a big friend of all-natural perfumery, so he was certainly in the right place to do some pre-sales for future exhibits.)

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    This is what is majorly putting me off joining in - every choice seems to be done with a JCE style transparency - that's my Satan of fragrances.

    Looking forward to reading people's reactions to the reveal though.
    LOL! I have to laugh at the idea of cuddly, suave JCE and Satan being in the same sentence. It has all the makings of the first ghastly good/bad/wtf off-Broadway play about fragrance: Jean-Claude versus Satan. The clouds of L'Etrog in dry ice smoke, billowing down on the audience, would surely be one of the high points.

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Well I'm relieved.
    When Chandler started saying Rodrigo and Yann did E03 I was frantically flipping through my mental rolodex thinking noooooo this is going to be something I thought I liked.
    When he said Arquiste I knew immediately it was the one I liked least and probably because I picked up on the unpleasant buzz and didn't try to force it.
    For what it is worth the the Arquiste line is well worth seeking out as the other five fragrances are things I truly enjoy but my two favorites are Anima Dulcis and Infanta en Flor.
    I am actually very encouraged that Arquiste was part of Birchbox because I think this line deserves a bit wider recognition.
    What did everyone else think about Arquiste L'Etrog?
    I was glad that it was an obscure and pricey niche frag which I had actually rolled my eyes at earlier, though I think it was interesting that the fragrance had been discussed with a lot of respect - thus (in my mind) confirming Chandler's pick as something deserving of consideration. I'm actually very glad that I finally got to smell it.

    However, I did a momentary double-take, because the "Etrog" that I remember most of all, isn't their "L'Etrog", but the (cough) all-natural perfume, Etrog Oy de Cologne, by Ayala Moriel. Apparently created with the help of her rabbi.

    Chandler - G_d is winking at you right now! vide supra

    http://www.ayalamoriel.com/index.cfm...&PerfumeID=101

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    It was an interesting ride, though. Mostly getting over the "Chandler likes it so it must be brilliant" prejudice and getting to know it to a point where I was confident that I didn't think it was that great. I was hoping it would turn out to be something really unexpected like a Chanel Exclusif or a forgotten Lutens, where I'd have to really re-sniff it.
    I thought that was really important. Understanding that I don't necessarily have to *like* something to appreciate the artistry that somebody else sees in something. And trusting my own sense of what is important TO ME.

    It's like when I finally got comfortable sight-seeing in Europe, and the French hostess pointed to Yet Another Important Roman Ruin. At that moment, a hunchbacked octogenarian in a beret walked around us quietly with his daily loaf of French bread. I have no memory of what building she was talking about, but I can honestly tell people I've been to France.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Not so sure about the way he prefers to talk about olfactory art. I don't think I can fully grasp what he means. The industry jargon is a no-no, just like talking about notes and odor profiles. It seems to be mainly visually focused.
    That makes me insecure in how and if I can still join the discussion on the series.
    He seemed to be inviting us to use "whatever", but at the same time he's clearly relying on artistic tools and descriptors borrowed from the established arts. Actually, I think that's a perfect mix for growth. It says "use the old", but allow for the new.

    It's my continuing contention that olfactory art needs a language of its own. Not just borrow-words, but its own language. Language is messy - the borrow words will hang around, but pretty soon, they become distinctly olfactory and not visual / musical / textural / flavorful. And there are uniquely fragrant words - chypre, fougère, etc. But I really believe that we need more and better sensory descriptors, be they borrowed and modified or internally generated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    Personally, as someone who worries about having an untrained nose, the fact that a good percentage of people who's noses I respect, find themselves disagreeing with the curator's opinions and interpretations has really helped me have more faith in my own opinions about things. The project is interesting, but it's also helping me feel less intimidated by the idea that somehow I'm a total clod in missing out on all these wonderful aspects that "the experts" speak about. Plenty of educated noses can't mangae to dredge them up either, even in the face of Chandler's prompting, so this shared experience is helping me feel better about the validity of my own impressions.

    And I do think the fact that it's a blind sniffing helps us be more objective about the thing. I saw a number of reviews which were preceded by the fume-makers romantic blurb, and sure enough, a fair percentage of the reviewers found themselves in a palm-fronded hut in rustic Italy. So it's pretty clear to me that the blind aspect of this project does help us see the thing for what it is....for each of us individually.
    I think this is exactly what Chandler is hoping for - true artistic discussion, as if we were all accompanying him in a museum - some of us nodding, and some of us not. I would be fully horrified if we were all nodding in agreement with him - it would make me doubt that any of this was real.

    Peoples reactions have the distinct smell of truth!

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    One thing that did surprise me is that this thing is apparently being sold as a primarily citrus type of creation. An "Etrog" is some sort of a largish lemon looking thing, and to my mind the frag never really came into it's own until the citrus had passed.
    Yes. Makes me wonder if the etrog has a distinctive "post-citrus" smell that they captured.

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    And dates ? I did not hear anyone mention them in the thread, but now that I've been told they are supposed to be there....I suspect I'll find myself smelling them soon enough.
    Now THAT is interesting. Dates and prunes have always had tonal qualities to my nose. WOW. Fascinating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    As to Chandler's references to the logistics of the thing, he mentions "the shipper" several times, which tells me that he never actually has the bottles in his possession, and that almost every practical aspect of the project is out of his hands. His very brief reference to problems with S01E02 leads me to believe there was more to the "weak juice" part of that one than he cared to admit.
    Yeah. Completely agreed. And he was very apologetic about E02/E03 (sometimes not sure which he actually meant). Either way, I'd say we're all good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    And I'm sure I was not the only one to let out a guffaw when, after apologizing for the slow shipping, and initially telling everyone that #4 was ready to go, after mumblings from the OS rep offstage, he reassured everyone that they'd be receiving #4 "within two weeks".
    Yeah - I will fess up to my sh*t-eating grin on that one.

    You know - OpenSky as a business operation is on their shake-down cruise (no pun intended) as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Windblownhair View Post
    I have great respect for Chandler's taste, and sincerely hope that we are treated to a wide cross-section of it. Especially as a newbie, I would love it if the Untitled Series were run like an introductory art appreciation class. Regardless of whether the teacher loves post-modernists, I don't want a class that is 90% about postmodernism. I would love to emerge from the class feeling like I learned about a wide range of styles and movements.

    Perhaps it is a bit too early in the series to be worried about it, but just from reading The Perfect Scent, it is apparent that Chandler Burr appreciates a wide variety of scents. Here's hoping that we are treated to that variety in this series.
    I think we will get a bit more variety. However, I highly doubt that we will be treated to any of the Gothic knuckle-draggers that a lot of the boys would appreciate. If we even get a flower-draped diva from the past, I'd be surprised. But I am fully convinced that there will be some real quality coming.

    I think it would be pretty neat if he saved the best for right around the museum opening, as a way of adding to the excitement!
    * * * *

  47. #227

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Baffled... Never heard of the line, nor the perfumers. So I guess this goes into my 'to explore' list Glad to see that I wasn't too far off on identifying the notes/house.
    I need to see where I can buy it around here. And try the other scents as well. This is an expensive line indeed.

    This broadcast was very revealing on 'the how to' of CB's curator-ship.

    I love the transparency that he talks about. I think it's indeed the way olfactory art is moving towards.
    I also love the idea that the series will be available worldwide. And that it focuses on formally trained perfumer artists.

    Not so sure about the way he prefers to talk about olfactory art. I don't think I can fully grasp what he means. The industry jargon is a no-no, just like talking about notes and odor profiles. It seems to be mainly visually focused.
    That makes me insecure in how and if I can still join the discussion on the series.

    I do love the image of 'Inception' the movie as a descriptor of E03. It really fits.

    And am very intrigued by E04. But need to sleep on it. There is something about this broadcast that got me thinking, a feeling I can't shake.
    We'll see.

    Off to bed now, till soon
    After concluding that it wasn't anything I had encountered before, I didn't really have a reaction to the reveal of the name and brand. I've never tried or heard of Arquiste (sorry, I didn't even know what Birchbox was until I googled it.)

    On the other hand, I was unsatisfied with the reveal commentary overall. I wanted more explanation from Chandler about his criteria for the Untitled Series, and I would have liked a little more discussion of the "paint" (i.e. chemistry of the scent) and commentary from the perfumeurs. I suppose that's too much to capture in a Spreecast. I wasn't disappointed that he's decided to exclude natural perfumes and self-taught perfumeurs. The project needs to have criteria and filters -- it is his view of fragrances afterall. However, I do think there's an unfulfilled demand for someone to explore raw materials and technique with an audience. They'd have at least one participant.

    I, too, could relate to the inception analogy, as well as the Rembrandt comparison. L'Etrog is dark. I'd like to comment further about the reveal, but will have to come back when I'm not so tired.

  48. #228
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    OK, is it weird that I'm kind of mad at L'Etrog now that I know what it is and its price?

    After wearing it at least 10 times, I really came to conclusion that it's basically three common-smelling mass-market smells stacked on each other (tutti fruity topnotes, metallic aquatic heart, fruit-chouli base). Had this been a designer scent, I would have understood completely and been able to write it off as commercialism. But as an expensive niche scent, I find this reliance on overused mall scent cliches quite offensive, especially the metallic ammonia aquatic heart (which some of you know is an automatic artistic failure for me - it symbolizes a perfume that underestimates both its audience and itself). At least in my head, the thing that so-called niche scents bring to the table (that justifies their prices) is the ability to get away from smellalike cliches.

    I suppose part of what I've learned from this is that I really am alone in the dark, tilting at windmills with my anti-metallic-windex-aquatic rants. That being said, as an unexpected bonus, I developed a newfound respect for Happy For Men out of this, and I guess that's something...

    Oh, and sidenote: An etrog is apparently a ceremonial Jewish citron fruit. I only know that from testing Ayala Moriel's Etrog, which is based on the essential oils of the actual rare fruit and is wonderful.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  49. #229

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    On the other hand, I was unsatisfied with the reveal commentary overall. I wanted more explanation from Chandler about his criteria for the Untitled Series, and I would have liked a little more discussion of the "paint" (i.e. chemistry of the scent) and commentary from the perfumeurs. I suppose that's too much to capture in a Spreecast. I wasn't disappointed that he's decided to exclude natural perfumes and self-taught perfumeurs. The project needs to have criteria and filters -- it is his view of fragrances afterall. However, I do think there's an unfulfilled demand for someone to explore raw materials and technique with an audience. They'd have at least one participant.

    I, too, could relate to the inception analogy, as well as the Rembrandt comparison. L'Etrog is dark. I'd like to comment further about the reveal, but will have to come back when I'm not so tired.
    I totally agree. That's why I'm playing with the idea hosting some blind sniffs myself, but more with a focus on aromatics training. The perfumers apprentice and the Note pad project here on BN offer some kind of 'nose education' but none are linked to perfumes to let people experience specific ingredients in a fragrant context.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    OK, is it weird that I'm kind of mad at L'Etrog now that I know what it is and its price?

    I suppose part of what I've learned from this is that I really am alone in the dark, tilting at windmills with my anti-metallic-windex-aquatic rants. That being said, as an unexpected bonus, I developed a newfound respect for Happy For Men out of this, and I guess that's something...

    Oh, and sidenote: An etrog is apparently a ceremonial Jewish citron fruit. I only know that from testing Ayala Moriel's Etrog, which is based on the essential oils of the actual rare fruit and is wonderful.
    You are not alone, rogalal *hug* In the fragrance world one can find 'scent buddies'. I know what you mean, when you develop an aversion to a particular kind of smell, it's hard to let go. I had that for a long while and then when I began this job, it forced me to let go. Maybe you will find something like that in your heart or nose

    Etrog = Cedrat. Its essential oils begin to win popularity, many other perfumers use it more and more.
    Some examples:
    -Bois de Cedrat Creed
    -Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat Guerlain
    -Pure Cedrat Azzaro for men
    -Cedrat Intense Parfums de Nicolaï

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I feel that Chandler is rather unapologetically showing us what he regards as moving works - and his taste is clearly shining through. I admit that he is perfectly entitled to do that, and for an inaugural "virtual exhibit" of this kind, I think that doing what he - personally - wants, rather than a balanced mix of styles, is probably the best choice, given the uncertainty of it all. Still, I understand why some folks would prefer more balance.

    I have mixed feelings about what he said in dismissing all-natural perfumery - something along the lines of "not interested". He didn't so much call it unimportant, but he implied it by saying he was sticking to important works. I agree that this is not the time and place for natural and small artisan stuff. But it would have been a perfect opportunity to get those folks on board by speaking to the future, and implying that they will someday find a bit of shelter and respect - even just a smidgeon - in the MAD. (Ca Fleure Bon is a big friend of all-natural perfumery, so he was certainly in the right place to do some pre-sales for future exhibits.)
    I totally agree, with you but also with CB.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    It's my continuing contention that olfactory art needs a language of its own. Not just borrow-words, but its own language. Language is messy - the borrow words will hang around, but pretty soon, they become distinctly olfactory and not visual / musical / textural / flavorful. And there are uniquely fragrant words - chypre, fougère, etc. But I really believe that we need more and better sensory descriptors, be they borrowed and modified or internally generated.
    I agree, that's why I totally didn't get his dismissal on using terms like 'oriental' etc. as efficient indicators.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I think we will get a bit more variety. However, I highly doubt that we will be treated to any of the Gothic knuckle-draggers that a lot of the boys would appreciate. If we even get a flower-draped diva from the past, I'd be surprised. But I am fully convinced that there will be some real quality coming.
    Again: agreed. However I begin to suspect that this is more of a CB exposition than I initially thought. It's like getting a tour through someones home and his/her taste of art/interior design.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Windblownhair View Post
    I have great respect for Chandler's taste, and sincerely hope that we are treated to a wide cross-section of it. Especially as a newbie, I would love it if the Untitled Series were run like an introductory art appreciation class. Regardless of whether the teacher loves post-modernists, I don't want a class that is 90% about postmodernism. I would love to emerge from the class feeling like I learned about a wide range of styles and movements.
    Just like Red says, I think some variety will come, but not so much as one would like. It's indeed an art teachers pet favorites class. I feel lucky that I get to enjoy this postmodernist olfactory art as it's my favorite too.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    Plenty of educated noses can't mangae to dredge them up either, even in the face of Chandler's prompting, so this shared experience is helping me feel better about the validity of my own impressions.
    Totally agree, I hope we can hold on to that as for me that is the most fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    And I'm sure I was not the only one to let out a guffaw when, after apologizing for the slow shipping, and initially telling everyone that #4 was ready to go, after mumblings from the OS rep offstage, he reassured everyone that they'd be receiving #4 "within two weeks".
    You are not, I think it's really poorly organized either as an afterthought or because of some commercial/sponsor deal with Open Sky. I'm glad at least now we get a FB page for the project
    http://www.facebook.com/ChandlerBurrUntitledSeries
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  50. #230

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    This probably sounds crazy and completely ridiculous BUT what if E02 was supposed to be this 'Trog' thing and E03 was supposed to be the Mugler? Do you think it's possible that Burr's description of E02 was actually meant for the Arquiste but the Mugler was sent instead? I remember when he commented to a poster (re. E02) that she would, and I paraphrase, probably never have smelt this, when we all know the Mugler is readily available. And what if the supply chain issues experienced (and mix-up with bottle sizes) with E03 relate to all this confusion?
    Or am I just an insane conspiracy theorist?

    Now, I'll just sit here and wait for everyone to bag me out! Lol.

  51. #231

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo123 View Post
    This probably sounds crazy and completely ridiculous BUT what if E02 was supposed to be this 'Trog' thing and E03 was supposed to be the Mugler? Do you think it's possible that Burr's description of E02 was actually meant for the Arquiste but the Mugler was sent instead? I remember when he commented to a poster (re. E02) that she would, and I paraphrase, probably never have smelt this, when we all know the Mugler is readily available. And what if the supply chain issues experienced (and mix-up with bottle sizes) with E03 relate to all this confusion?
    Or am I just an insane conspiracy theorist?

    Now, I'll just sit here and wait for everyone to bag me out! Lol.
    I don't think you're crazy, Leo (LOL about 'trog' like cave man or troglodyte or the Dutch word meaning 'a pigs feeder')

    The organization is poor and I believe Burr himself doesn't actually smell the small bottles that they are sold prior to them being sold to us.
    Last edited by Irina; 5th September 2012 at 01:18 PM.
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  52. #232

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Windblownhair View Post
    I have great respect for Chandler's taste, and sincerely hope that we are treated to a wide cross-section of it. Especially as a newbie, I would love it if the Untitled Series were run like an introductory art appreciation class. Regardless of whether the teacher loves post-modernists, I don't want a class that is 90% about postmodernism. I would love to emerge from the class feeling like I learned about a wide range of styles and movements.

    Perhaps it is a bit too early in the series to be worried about it, but just from reading The Perfect Scent, it is apparent that Chandler Burr appreciates a wide variety of scents. Here's hoping that we are treated to that variety in this series.
    In some ways, Chandler's approach to the Untitled Series reminds me of the tea master Rikiu described in Kakuzo Okakura's The Book of Tea:

    One is reminded in this connection of a story concerning Kobori-Enshiu. Enshiu was complimented by his disciples on the admirable taste he had displayed in the choice of his collection. Said they, "Each piece is such that no one could help admiring. It shows that you had better taste than had Rikiu, for his collection could only be appreciated by one beholder in a thousand." Sorrowfully Enshiu replied: "This only proves how commonplace I am. The great Rikiu dared to love only those objects which personally appealed to him, whereas I unconsciously cater to the taste of the majority. Verily, Rikiu was one in a thousand among tea-masters."

    It is much to be regretted that so much of the apparent enthusiasm for art at the present day has no foundation in real feeling. In this democratic age of ours men clamour for what is popularly considered the best, regardless of their feelings. They want the costly, not the refined; the fashionable, not the beautiful. To the masses, contemplation of illustrated periodicals, the worthy product of their own industrialism, would give more digestible food for artistic enjoyment than the early Italians or the Ashikaga masters, whom they pretend to admire. The name of the artist is more important to them than the quality of the work. As a Chinese critic complained many centuries ago, "People criticise a picture by their ear." It is this lack of genuine appreciation that is responsible for the pseudo-classic horrors that to-day greet us wherever we turn.

    We can only hope to appreciate his taste.

  53. #233

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I don't think you're crazy, Leo (LOL about 'trog' like cave man or troglodyte or the Dutch word meaning 'a pigs feeder')

    The organization is poor and I believe Burr himself doesn't actually smell the small bottles that they are sold previously to them being sold to us.
    Lol - pigs feeder! And thanks for the understanding! I was waiting to be pounced on for that one! As amazing as most basenoters are, some can be a little ruthless at times.

  54. #234

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo123 View Post
    Lol - pigs feeder! And thanks for the understanding! I was waiting to be pounced on for that one! As amazing as most basenoters are, some can be a little ruthless at times.
    I love this piece of internet, this specific subforum and even more specific the threads on the project. I think it's because of Red. He is very positive, respectful and thoughtful in his writing and together with other very nice and kind BN-ers (I mean it's because of them that I can even participate!) we get a very harmonious group of people that are honest, open but still in a very respectful way.
    It's unique, really!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    In some ways, Chandler's approach to the Untitled Series reminds me of the tea master Rikiu described in Kakuzo Okakura's The Book of Tea:

    One is reminded in this connection of a story concerning Kobori-Enshiu. Enshiu was complimented by his disciples on the admirable taste he had displayed in the choice of his collection. Said they, "Each piece is such that no one could help admiring. It shows that you had better taste than had Rikiu, for his collection could only be appreciated by one beholder in a thousand." Sorrowfully Enshiu replied: "This only proves how commonplace I am. The great Rikiu dared to love only those objects which personally appealed to him, whereas I unconsciously cater to the taste of the majority. Verily, Rikiu was one in a thousand among tea-masters."

    It is much to be regretted that so much of the apparent enthusiasm for art at the present day has no foundation in real feeling. In this democratic age of ours men clamour for what is popularly considered the best, regardless of their feelings. They want the costly, not the refined; the fashionable, not the beautiful. To the masses, contemplation of illustrated periodicals, the worthy product of their own industrialism, would give more digestible food for artistic enjoyment than the early Italians or the Ashikaga masters, whom they pretend to admire. The name of the artist is more important to them than the quality of the work. As a Chinese critic complained many centuries ago, "People criticise a picture by their ear." It is this lack of genuine appreciation that is responsible for the pseudo-classic horrors that to-day greet us wherever we turn.

    We can only hope to appreciate his taste.
    How beautiful, thank you so much for sharing! This reminds me of what is important: the art, the fragrance. Not the ego or the label.

    I don't know if I can do this episode, this month is killing busy and I don't want to rush it again. With getting any of the episodes from the US to here, there is just too little time left to enjoy and join the discussion passionately.
    But I do like to read y'all and enjoy all the talk about art.
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  55. #235

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I love this piece of internet, this specific subforum and even more specific the threads on the project. I think it's because of Red. He is very positive, respectful and thoughtful in his writing and together with other very nice and kind BN-ers (I mean it's because of them that I can even participate!) we get a very harmonious group of people that are honest, open but still in a very respectful way.
    It's unique, really!

    - - - Updated - - -



    How beautiful, thank you so much for sharing! This reminds me of what is important: the art, the fragrance. Not the ego or the label.

    I don't know if I can do this episode, this month is killing busy and I don't want to rush it again. With getting any of the episodes from the US to here, there is just too little time left to enjoy and join the discussion passionately.
    But I do like to read y'all and enjoy all the talk about art.

    I agree Irina - great people & great discussion. That's why I come back every day!

  56. #236
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I think some variety will come, but not so much as one would like. It's indeed an art teachers pet favorites class.
    I'm with Windblown here, and hoping for more variety than we've gotten so far, rather than just this post-modern subset of things. My personal feeling is that if you are going to curate a museum based on a subject that is, quite frankly, an unfamiliar field for most of the general public, you do owe that public a broad representation of the subject matter at hand. If there were scent museums scattered all over the country, then perhaps it would be fine to have some that concentrate on subsections of the field, but personally I'm hoping for at least a few of the Gothic knuckle-draggers that Red referred to before we are through.

    I also am hoping that the offerings will be seasonally appropriate, and that #4 will contain some hints of Fall. Can postmodernism encompass the soul of each of the seasons, or is it, by it's nature seasonless ? I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

    If CB is out there, I hope he understands that beneath all this rough and tumble talk, and underneath the grumbled grousing, the vast majority of us are really enjoying his project, appreciating the energy he's putting into it, and that his push to have people see things in a new ways, both objectively and subjectively, is being realized.

    So bring on the water-washed green, and the certainly citrus, and bring on the fire gilded Medieval mirror with its micro-pitted patina of toxic, silvery mercury lying under glass.

    If it brings to mind a rolly-polly little puppy in a tussle with a Lemon Pledge-soaked rag, that'll be fine with me too.
    Last edited by Birdboy48; 5th September 2012 at 03:52 PM.

  57. #237

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    My personal feeling is that if you are going to curate a museum based on a subject that is, quite frankly, an unfamiliar field for most of the general public, you do owe that public a broad representation of the subject matter at hand.
    See, I suspect that in Burr's actual Museum of Art and Design exhibit (which if I recall correctly will have a catalogue with samples, no doubt $$$) that level of historical and generic breadth will be seen, but I am increasingly skeptical about the Untitled OpenSky project.
    Read something old and smelly? Come across an interesting historical reference to smell? Contact me!

  58. #238
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    I'm hoping that he's chosen scents that are easily worn during the time of year they are received. I wouldn't want to test a gourmand scent in July.
    Last edited by socalwoman; 5th September 2012 at 10:52 PM.

  59. #239
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    L'Etrog is dark.
    I never got this, but I'm sure you did, because this feature made such an impression on Chandler as well. To me, it's painfully light. I find this paradoxical observation fascinating.

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    That being said, as an unexpected bonus, I developed a newfound respect for Happy For Men out of this, and I guess that's something...
    I really love this side-effect of the project! I've rediscovered my passion for several scents!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Etrog = Cedrat. Its essential oils begin to win popularity, many other perfumers use it more and more.
    Some examples:
    -Bois de Cedrat Creed
    -Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat Guerlain
    -Pure Cedrat Azzaro for men
    -Cedrat Intense Parfums de Nicolaï
    I *LOVE* cedrat! O.M.G. - that's what it is! Bois de Cedrat is one of my deepest fragrant loves.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I agree, that's why I totally didn't get his dismissal on using terms like 'oriental' etc. as efficient indicators.
    Great thought - I had forgotten that fragrance term. It's definitely a fully appropriated borrow word.

    You know, I think he wants us to just forget all our "usual" stuff - despite the fact that it works. I really think his main goal is to get us away from all the nuts-and-bolts descriptors, so that we can see new features in fragrance - things we're not used to talking about. And I have to say, I hope it works.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Again: agreed. However I begin to suspect that this is more of a CB exposition than I initially thought. It's like getting a tour through someones home and his/her taste of art/interior design.
    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    It's indeed an art teachers pet favorites class.


    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I'm glad at least now we get a FB page for the project
    http://www.facebook.com/ChandlerBurrUntitledSeries
    Cool!

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo123 View Post
    This probably sounds crazy and completely ridiculous BUT what if E02 was supposed to be this 'Trog' thing and E03 was supposed to be the Mugler? Do you think it's possible that Burr's description of E02 was actually meant for the Arquiste but the Mugler was sent instead? I remember when he commented to a poster (re. E02) that she would, and I paraphrase, probably never have smelt this, when we all know the Mugler is readily available. And what if the supply chain issues experienced (and mix-up with bottle sizes) with E03 relate to all this confusion?
    Or am I just an insane conspiracy theorist?

    Now, I'll just sit here and wait for everyone to bag me out! Lol.
    Interesting idea - and I'll take it seriously enough to explain why I'm certain that it's not the case.

    There was definitely something up with E02 - that stuff was just wrong. I have since smelled several authentic samples of Mugler Cologne. However, I am positive that they are all the same fragrance There is too much similarity in almost every aspect of the fragrance save one, which happens to be very important.

    However, I can also tell you that every sample of Mugler Cologne has smelled differently. I just smelled some in Macy's last week, and while it was more green than E02, it was significantly less green than my authentic Mugler Cologne, and it was even less green than the tester in Von Maur.

    Oddly, the degree of "wrongness" of the scents - the lack of green - is inversely proportional to sample volume, in a very obvious order. That is to say, my large bottle is the greenest, the smaller bottles are less green, and the 30 mL decant was the least green of all. I am growing increasingly suspicious that an oxidation effect after bottling, kills the green note. That would explain everything, and it can happen with everybody telling the truth about reformulations, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    The organization is poor and I believe Burr himself doesn't actually smell the small bottles that they are sold prior to them being sold to us.
    It's pretty hard to deny any of this. I did get my half-money back, however, just like it was promised.

    I'm calling it a clean slate for OpenSky - let's hope they do well with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    In some ways, Chandler's approach to the Untitled Series reminds me of the tea master Rikiu described in Kakuzo Okakura's The Book of Tea:

    One is reminded in this connection of a story concerning Kobori-Enshiu. Enshiu was complimented by his disciples on the admirable taste he had displayed in the choice of his collection. Said they, "Each piece is such that no one could help admiring. It shows that you had better taste than had Rikiu, for his collection could only be appreciated by one beholder in a thousand." Sorrowfully Enshiu replied: "This only proves how commonplace I am. The great Rikiu dared to love only those objects which personally appealed to him, whereas I unconsciously cater to the taste of the majority. Verily, Rikiu was one in a thousand among tea-masters."

    It is much to be regretted that so much of the apparent enthusiasm for art at the present day has no foundation in real feeling. In this democratic age of ours men clamour for what is popularly considered the best, regardless of their feelings. They want the costly, not the refined; the fashionable, not the beautiful. To the masses, contemplation of illustrated periodicals, the worthy product of their own industrialism, would give more digestible food for artistic enjoyment than the early Italians or the Ashikaga masters, whom they pretend to admire. The name of the artist is more important to them than the quality of the work. As a Chinese critic complained many centuries ago, "People criticise a picture by their ear." It is this lack of genuine appreciation that is responsible for the pseudo-classic horrors that to-day greet us wherever we turn.

    We can only hope to appreciate his taste.
    Absolutely one of the best posts ever. That first paragraph should be framed and put up somewhere in the museum!

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo123 View Post
    Lol - pigs feeder! And thanks for the understanding! I was waiting to be pounced on for that one! As amazing as most basenoters are, some can be a little ruthless at times.
    Don't worry about those guys! Most of the snark-meisters are just pussycats with a wicked sense of humor. A long time ago, there were a lot of guys here who favored large carnivores and big-breed dogs as avatars. I was always tiptoeing around them. It took a couple of thousand posts to realize that those avatars might as well have been teddy bears!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I love this piece of internet, this specific subforum and even more specific the threads on the project. I think it's because of Red. He is very positive, respectful and thoughtful in his writing and together with other very nice and kind BN-ers (I mean it's because of them that I can even participate!) we get a very harmonious group of people that are honest, open but still in a very respectful way.
    It's unique, really!
    Thanks, Irina - I appreciate your faith in me. But honestly, I'm just a fool with a "soup-stone" who unknowingly baited in you folks, who have the real goods!

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    I don't know if I can do this episode, this month is killing busy and I don't want to rush it again. With getting any of the episodes from the US to here, there is just too little time left to enjoy and join the discussion passionately.
    But I do like to read y'all and enjoy all the talk about art.
    I do hope you can come around and spend time with us, even if you're just smelling by proxy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo123 View Post
    I agree Irina - great people & great discussion. That's why I come back every day!
    Glad you're here, too!

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    If CB is out there, I hope he understands that beneath all this rough and tumble talk, and underneath the grumbled grousing, the vast majority of us are really enjoying his project, appreciating the energy he's putting into it, and that his push to have people see things in a new ways, both objectively and subjectively, is being realized.
    Affirmative. Totally!

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    So bring on the water-washed green, and the certainly citrus, and bring on the fire gilded Medieval mirror with its micro-pitted patina of toxic, silvery mercury lying under glass.
    Love it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdboy48 View Post
    If it brings to mind a rolly-polly little puppy in a tussle with a Lemon Pledge-soaked rag, that'll be fine with me too.
    I think you just channeled Turin's assessment of Burr's taste on a day when he was feeling very 1-star!

    Quote Originally Posted by Friede View Post
    See, I suspect that in Burr's actual Museum of Art and Design exhibit (which if I recall correctly will have a catalogue with samples, no doubt $$$) that level of historical and generic breadth will be seen, but I am increasingly skeptical about the Untitled OpenSky project.
    I agree. But I would like to give Chandler a pass - just on the odd thought that this may be his last fragrant fling as anything approaching "just another guy on the web with an opinion". I am sure that when the curator hat is fully on, as in having a valid wing in existence, and when all the forces around the fragrance world are clamoring for mind-share, he will be up to his neck in political alligators. This may end up being one of the last perfect glimpses of his personal taste, until a "Curator's Favorites" exhibit appears in..... don't even want to hazard a guess.

    Quote Originally Posted by socalwoman View Post
    I'm hoping that he's chosen scents that are easily worn during the time of year they are received. I wouldn't want to test a gourmand scent in July.
    Me too! I would love to get some fall scents for fall. But most of all, I'm hoping that the one for November produces a real buzz around the museum opening!
    * * * *

  60. #240

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

    Glad I could help, Red I mean it: you have a gift. Often on the net I feel like the French put it so funny "comme un éléphant dans un magasin de porcelaine" ('like a bull in a china shop'). You have a way to put even clumsy people like me at ease. I think you should do an Untitled Series of your own
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