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  1. #1

    Red face suggestions for a new perfume

    Hello everyone !

    Well, after reading you guys religiously for over 3 months (and discovering some great fragrances in the process) I've decided to take the next step and write my first post :-)

    I am on my ever-searching quest for the perfect perfume for me, if that's possible. My favorite perfumes are the following:

    1. Narcisse Noir parfum (Caron). I have a "vintage" from the nineties that sweeps me off. God nows what an old vintage could do to me. Doesn't stay long on my skin though, which makes me a bit sad. The current EDT nice, but tame ergo disappointing.

    2. Cuir de Russie EDT (Chanel). I also own the parfum, but for some reason I like the EDT a bit better. the smoky drydown is to die for! Also, it lasts longer on my skin than the parfum.

    3. Coco parfum (Chanel): I may be a guy, but I get compliments every time I wear this. This is as feminine as I to go though. It's a transgender madness! :-)

    4. Duro (Nasomatto): I love the raw boldness of this one. It's just explosive, and dry, which I love.

    5. Rien (EldO): I wish the florals where a tiny bit less overpowered by the animatics and the incense, but still it develops beautifully on my skin.

    6. Cuir Fetiche (MPeG): I love this one for it's beauty and discreetness. I wear it to work every day, alternating with my beloved Cuir de Russie.

    Other fragrances that I've worn/wear and like very much are Egoiste (Chanel) and Opium (YSL).

    I guess you've realized by now that I'm not partial to fresh/herbal fragrances (which makes me loud in the summertime but oh well). I'd say my favorite notes are leather, wood / oud, animalics, and florals. I'm open to more notes though. I particularly enjoy florals and sweetness that are somehow restrained and attacked by the sourness of other elements. that creates a beautiful tension that I mostly find in Rien and Narcisse Noir and, to a lesser extent, in Coco and Cuir de Russie.

    I'll be glad and grateful to read your suggestions. I'm pretty new to the technicalities of the perfume industry and I apologize if my descriptions are not as accurate as they should be. Thanks in advance!!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    I don't have any suggestion for you as I'm relatively new here but just wanted to give you a warm welcome to Basenotes! It's filled with lovely people who I'm sure will be coming along shortly to help you.

  3. #3

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Welcome!

    Sweet floral leathers of the past include vintage Jolie Madame (sweet violets and butch leather); but you have to go vintage, the current formulation has been cheapened. And En Avion by Caron (anise, orange blossom, leather); certainly not the current edt, perhaps the current extrait, but it's always hard to say with Caron, they keep cheapening and reformulating.

    And have you tried Bandit or Knize Ten? They're both leathers with flowers. However, the leathers are very butch, so the feel is quite different from Chanel Cuir de Russie smooth suede, especially Bandit, which has a lot of green, but then bitter, intense leather. Serge Lutens Boxeuses has Lutens's typical candied fruits over some leather; unfortunately, it doesn't last too long on me, but it's beautiful while it does.

    If you want a supersmooth leather, you can also check Tom of Finland; not much florals, but lemon and saffron over a smooth suede.

    cacio

  4. #4
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    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Perhaps Oud Cuir D'Arabie by Montale

  5. #5

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Thank you all so much for the welcome and the comments! I haven't tried Jolie Madame, Knize ten, Bandit, Boxeuses or Oud Cuir d'Arabie, so I guess I'll have to get hold of samples asap :-P. calcio I think you're right about Caron. I was at their NYC store (yes, I got to meet Diane lol) looking to try the praised Tabac Blond and it didn't do much for me, just a sweet luxury that smelled good but I could dispense with. I also tried En Avion, Poivre, Yatagan and Secret Oud and they didn't impress me either: the only ones I loved were Narcisse Noir parfum and Parfum Sacre (this one is too feminine for me so my mother will be getting it for Christmas lol). I've tried Tom of Finland and it didn't impress me too much either: of ELdO I loved Rien and, to my astonishment (based on the description), Delicious Closet Queen (but I had already spent a lot of money on perfume that day and I felt guilty about buying a bottle... It's still on my mind though).
    You guys are awesome! Any more suggestions? :-P

  6. #6

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Leather Oud, Kouros, Joop.

  7. #7

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    I wouldn't worry about trying to find a "holy grail." Your doing it the right way by finding certain notes or accords that you enjoy. Some that I'd recommend trying are Chanel Sycomore, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Nasomatto Black Afgano, Comme des Garcons 2 Man, Fahrenheit Absolute, M7, Chanel Antaeus, Creed Royal Oud, and 24 Gold.
    Summer 2014 favorites

    1. Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche (orange)
    2. Dueto Citiver (Vetiver)
    3. Dior Homme Sport 2012 (Citron)
    4. Lalique Encre Noire Sport (Woody)
    5. Dior Homme Eau (Iris)
    6.Chanel Allure Edition Blanche (Lemon)

    7. Cartier Roadster (Mint)
    8. Joop Splash (Fruity)
    9. Lanvin L'homme Sport (Petitgrain))
    10. Jesus Del Pozo Adventure Quasar (Gin)

  8. #8

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Alfredo, welcome! I love your taste in perfume; I think Cuir Fetiche is totally underrated.

    I agree with all of Cacio's suggestions (particularly Knize Ten and Tom of Finland), but also think you should try Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens, Prada's Cuir Ambre, and Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire. You also might like Estee Lauder's Azuree.

    Also, have you tried Chanel's Bois des Iles?

  9. #9

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Thank you all for the suggestions. My, do I have some samples to get lol. I think youre right silentrich, there's not a holy grail, but oh the adrenalin you feel while you look for it lol ;-) I have tried Sycomore, and I didn't really care much for it. I owned Antaeus a few years ago, but I grew tired of it: too overpowering and not playful enough for my taste. I have tried some of the Fahrenheit line but they all seem to be lacking something for me (I don't think I've tried Absolute though).
    To be more specific, the notes that I seem to be most attracted to are: leather, amber, sandalwood, orange blossom, Oud, civet, tonka bean, vanilla, jasmine, ylang ylang (a la Chanel) and why not, a few spices for the perfect mix :-P

    Edit: Kagey, thanks for the welcome and the compliments. I'll keep your suggestions in mind, they are intriguing indeed. I have tried bois des iles, smelled quite good on paper but my skin totally repelled it :-(
    Last edited by Alfredo86; 4th August 2012 at 07:24 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    A couple of suggestions:

    Black Orchid by Tom Ford; very rich and dark with the spices, vanilla and sandalwood.

    Cuir by Lancome is a cheapie that I like more and more. I get leather mixed with mandarin, it's unpretentious, pleasant and easy to wear.

    And just to throw you a curveball : A Quiet Morning by Miller et Bertaux. No leather here, just a meditative mix of spices and woods: Saffron, basmati rice, orange blossom, sandalwood and cedar

  11. #11

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Alfredo, what a terrific taste!!!

    Some great suggestions already, I'll second the vintage Madame Jolie and Knize Ten but you really ought to test Sarrasins as one of the most decadent florals with leathery undertones around. Tabac Blond (extrait) is another one to check out. For something easier to wear yet incredibly well crefted and distinctive, check Cuir Pleine Fleur.


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  12. #12

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Quote Originally Posted by Alfredo86 View Post
    To be more specific, the notes that I seem to be most attracted to are: leather, amber, sandalwood, orange blossom, Oud, civet, tonka bean, vanilla, jasmine, ylang ylang (a la Chanel) and why not, a few spices for the perfect mix :-P

    I have tried bois des iles, smelled quite good on paper but my skin totally repelled it :-(
    Hello Alfredo and welcome to basenotes:-)

    I share your love of cuir de russie and coco. I would recommend giving bois des iles a few wearings before making a decision - I didn't like the first few wearings and then it 'clicked' and I adore it now. I would recommend sampling ormonde jayne tolu, vintage bal a versailles (civet oriental) and possibly hypnotic poison elixir, tom ford oud wood and serge lutens daim blond (apricot leather).

  13. #13
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    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Welcome to Basenotes, Alfredo86! A few good leathers you might enjoy are Caron Tabac Blond, Gres Cabochard, Guerlain Cuir Beluga and Hermes Eau d'Hermes.

  14. #14

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Thank you all for your suggestions!! Galwaygirl, as for Bal à Versailles, it had been on my mind for a long time and I decided to blind buy, for a reasonable price, the EDC and the pure parfum for a reasonable price (and if I'm not mistaken the extrait might be vintage, since the cap is spherical, not violin-shaped). I'm still waiting for the parfum, but the EDC just arrived and I applied it 10 minutes ago. The box wasn't sealed (wtf???) but I think it might not have been used, since I had to press three times until the spray finally stopped working. I do think it's the real deal. I'm smelling a lot of powder and citrus, not really my thing. But as I'm writing this, a few notes are starting to kick in, I think it's amber and animalics (yaaay!!!) and I'm enjoying it more and more. I'll let it do its thing for a while, and see if I finally love it. So far, not disappointed, but I surely could be doing away with the citrus (perhaps that's unavoidable in an EDC?).

    I tried Tabac Blond at Caron NYC and wasn't impressed: smelled good, but too nice and sweet on me.

    I haven't tried the rest of your suggestions but they sure sound great, especially Sarrasins, Jolie Madame, Black Orchid and Knize Ten.

    Thanks again for the suggestions!!! Keep in mind that I don't necessarily need a leather note (I have a few perfumes that do not have it). I like leathers, but my main interest is basically dark florals (more sour than sweet, darkened by either leather, animalics, woods, resins, oud, a mixture thereof... teheh :P

    Edit: On second thoughts, I'm not sure I'd like Black Orchid if it's as strong in chocolate as people say. Not a fand of gourmands here ... :-(
    Last edited by Alfredo86; 4th August 2012 at 10:04 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Quote Originally Posted by Alfredo86 View Post
    Galwaygirl, as for Bal à Versailles, it had been on my mind for a long time and I decided to blind buy, for a reasonable price, the EDC and the pure parfum for a reasonable price (and if I'm not mistaken the extrait might be vintage, since the cap is spherical, not violin-shaped). I'm still waiting for the parfum, but the EDC just arrived and I applied it 10 minutes ago. The box wasn't sealed (wtf???) but I think it might not have been used, since I had to press three times until the spray finally stopped working. I do think it's the real deal. I'm smelling a lot of powder and citrus, not really my thing. But as I'm writing this, a few notes are starting to kick in, I think it's amber and animalics (yaaay!!!) and I'm enjoying it more and more. I'll let it do its thing for a while, and see if I finally love it. So far, not disappointed, but I surely could be doing away with the citrus (perhaps that's unavoidable in an EDC?)
    My guess is you will prefer the Bal à Versailles parfum to the EDC :-)

  16. #16

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Quote Originally Posted by Alfredo86 View Post

    I tried Tabac Blond at Caron NYC and wasn't impressed: smelled good, but too nice and sweet on me.
    What diluition have you tried? The extrait isn't that sweet...at least surely not more than Cuir De Russie...


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  17. #17

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    What diluition have you tried? The extrait isn't that sweet...at least surely not more than Cuir De Russie...
    I tried the extrait. Maybe it was just my skin chemistry. Diane was impressed with how my skin brought out all the sweetness of Tabac Blond. Cuir de Russie is by far less sweet on my skin. God knows why...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by galwaygirl001 View Post
    My guess is you will prefer the Bal à Versailles parfum to the EDC :-)
    I can't wait to get it. It's only 0.25oz though I'm still wearing the EDC, and it's developing quite beautifully. Now it's powder with lots of amber and some sweaty flowers...
    Last edited by Alfredo86; 4th August 2012 at 10:31 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Yep, great suggestions, and great taste my friend.
    I'll add a few goodies in the basket:

    Onda Parfum Vero Profumo
    Lonestar Memories Tauer
    Cuir Ottoman Parfum D'Empire
    Fig Aftelier (it's not a fig fragrance...)
    Sepia Aftelier
    Intrigant Patchouli Parfumerie Generale

  19. #19

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    For dark florals, have you tried Amouage Gold man? Huge floral with incense and other resins, plus a dollop of civet. Ubar would have been in similar territory,but somebody reported that it has been watered down. Arpege, even in current form, is also a woody dark resinous floral. The current edp is plush, slightly less animalic than before, and with a touch of strawberry note (which you might not like). Vintage, at least to my nose, is a touch brighter, but more animalic.

    cacio

  20. #20

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Knize ten
    cuir pleine fleure
    Balladin
    Guerlain Arsene Lupin
    Guerlain Derby
    Guerlain Chamade pour Homme
    Guerlain l'heure bleue EdT

  21. #21

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    +1 for Azuree, you might find the he's periodic opening not to your taste but give it time before scrubbing. It's a tough bikers leather jacket after 30 minutes. Or try the Aramis range linked to Azuree and other feminines from the EL group fraternally. Cheap as chips and outstanding quality.

    +1 Daim Blonde smooth apricot suede done in the inimtable SL style. Also try Bottega Veneta's eponymous scent which is the same accord but slightly less candied. Cheaper and again excellent work.

    Piguet Calypso is a suedey leather and EldO Sex Pistols, now called Malaise of the 70s, is an aldehydic bomb which when the hairspray aldehydes blow off smells of the punk/indie/goth clubs I frequented in my youth. It smells of well won black biker jacket, warm zips and studs, patchouli, reefers and a little fresh sweat from dancing body odour. Not to everyone's taste but I admit to having a soft spot for it.

    Most of all welcome and enjoy your search for your version of the Holy Grail

  22. #22

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Thank you all (yes, again) for your suggestions! Some of them seem a tad too masculine for me. I'm more into butch with a feminine side, or both sides coexisting together in harmony . I find Azuree intriguing (from EL I've only tried Pleasures for men, not me at all). I'm also VERY excited about Amouage Gold: both the feminine and masculine versions sound like something I would terribly enjoy. one question: Do you think I'd enjoy Shalimar? It gets rave reviews here and I'm attracted to the notes at first sight. Also, what about Ambre Fétiche? That one sounds awesome too...
    Last edited by Alfredo86; 5th August 2012 at 10:54 AM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Hard to dislike Shalimar (the original, not the flankers). A wonderful vanillic, nearly gourmand oriental. Likely the primary example of the famous Guerlain vanilla. It is however not particularly dark, though it does have some leathery-tarry notes among the many. The darker and strongly animalic oriental used to be Tabu, but the version now sold in drugstores is too simple and harsh. Niche firm Ormonde Jayne makes another wonderful, slightly vanillic oriental with some animalics called Tolu.

    cacio

  24. #24

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    I just ordered samples of Amouage gold men & women, Knize ten, black afgano, lonestar memories, intrigant patchouli and al Oudh. I only wish that lucky scent had more choices to sample; I couldn't find Bandit or Jokie Madame, among others I can't wait for them to arrive. I'll keep you posted! :-P

  25. #25
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    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Do try:

    Cuir Pleine Fleur by Heeley - One is initially treated to an enchanting, herbaceous melange. Violet leaf with its marked greenness, akin to grass clippings, couples with the bittersweetness of bergamot as well as the sweetly floral and faintly woody aroma of mimosa. An illusion of a hay-stacked pasture is consummated. Transitioning to the heart, a nascent, leathery castoreum blooms, while lovely black locust adds its indolic, orange blossom flavor and hawthorne imparts its slightly honey and almond aspect to the exquisite opening blend. Immersed in the augmented mixture, the resplendent leather takes on a refined, suede-like aura. An undercurrent of aubepine, with its slightly rose-like odor and anise-like facet, as well as the wintergreen of birch carries the luxurious, leather concoction to the waiting base. The sumptuous leather is lifted by the woody birch, which comes into its own, with its somewhat medicinal and spearmint facets marrying with the earthy grassiness of vetiver as well as the pencil shavings of Virginia cedar. An elegant drydown ensues. A majestic scent for all seasons, this polished, masculine composition has average projection and good longevity, 8-10 hours.

    &


  26. #26

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Thanks dollars&scents for the suggestion! It does sound amazing, I'll have to get hold of a sample of that :P. btw, my Bal à Versailles parfum (vintage, I believe, with the round cap) just arrived. It was sealed and everything, but half the bottle was spilled! I don't know if I'll be able to return it... Anyways, I tried two drops on and I find it quite similar to the EDC so far, only that it wears closer to the skin. I just love it's decadency. One of my best findings ever!

  27. #27

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Spiller or evaporated? It is not uncommon for parfums to evaporate. But if it spilled in transit it's a different thing.

    cacio

  28. #28

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Well half of it was missing, so I assumed that's what happened. Also there was a strong smell of the perfume as soon as I unsealed it and even a bit before that. However, I did not find the inside of the box soaked (but the bottle did feel greasy), so maybe it did evaporate and not spill after all. Do you think that it's possible for half of the 0.25oz perfume to evaporate? It seems like a lot of fluid, doesn't it?

  29. #29

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Late to the party as I hardly ever check this section, I admit!
    Amazing first post, Alfredo! Amazing taste! Congratulations!
    I think you are ready for the classic Guerlains!
    My proposal for current and non-vintage:
    Jicky EdP or Extrait
    Vol de Nuit Extrait
    Sous le Vent (Guerlain Boutique Exclusive)
    Vega (Guerlain Boutique Exclusive)

  30. #30

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Hi everyone!

    So far I've tried Knize Ten (hated it), Lonestar Memories, Black Orchid and Intrigant Patchouli (meh). Then a few days I finally decided to blind buy vintage Jolie Madame EDT. So glad I did, it's just GORGEOUS. It opens on me with a blast of burnt sugar boozy sweetness and then morphs into a mossy violet leather that I love. However, the scent doesn't last so long on me and the projection is only so so. The box was opened but the bottle apparently never was, and the seller had thousands of nothing but positive reviews from reliable users so I guess it's the real thing (it definitely smells like it, perhaps it's just that I had too high expectations on longevity and sillage: it dries down so quickly!! . )
    I ordered at the perfumed court some vintage narcisse noir, which I've never smelled in vintage formulation, vintage Jolie Madame (just to make sure I got the real deal), and some vintage shalimar, samsara, Mitsouko and Jicky. I still have Sarrasins to try, I know lol

  31. #31

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    Wonderful purchase, I should double up too! I too have Jolie Madame EDT and it is not particularly long lasting on me either, though it's fantastic while it does. I suppose the parfum concentration will be long lasting, but I haven't tried it. Projection is ok on me, but as you know many older perfumes don't have the projection of the later synthetic monsters, which I think it's not a bad thing. From your description, you clearly have the real deal, and in very good state (deterioration in perfume shows up in off notes, not in longevity or sillage per se).

    If you dislike the leathers a la Knize Ten (and thus, avoid Bandit as well), Sarrasins should do well, because the leather is light and the florals are airy and serene (though jasmine is dirtier than pretty violets).

    cacio

  32. #32

    Default Re: suggestions for a new perfume

    You need

    Bel Ami vintage if possible
    Tom Ford Oud Wood
    Guerlain Arsene Lupin
    Knize Ten
    Tauer l'air du desert marocain

    Last but not least

    Dior Leather Oud (leather plus smoke plus veeery animalistic)

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