Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 35 of 35
  1. #1

    Default EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    As most on Basenotes are probably aware the fragrance industry is largely self-regulated through the International FRagrance Association (IFRA), set up for the purpose in 1973. Many here consider the level of regulation draconian and detrimental to the art of fragrance creation - in the wider population many consider it to be inadequate, self-serving or even determined to give everyone eczema . . .

    Whatever you think of IFRA though you might want to get involved in the process of debate now reaching its final stages in the EU - even if you live elsewhere in the world - because the potential for much more widespread regulation, enforced by law (unlike the IFRA Standards), will inevitably drive IFRA into more restrictions in an attempt to stave off legal regulation.

    The EU already requires 26 fragrance ingredients alleged to be potential allergens, to be declared on labels, something which resulted in widespread re-formulation of many fragrances. If the current proposals go ahead some fragrance ingredients, including oakmoss and lyral in particular, could become illegal in the EU and effectively be removed from the perfumer's palette worldwide.

    For more information see this article in Perfumer and Flavorist.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  2. #2

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks for the info and link, Chris.

  3. #3
    Dependent Birdboy48's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Bend Oregon USA
    Posts
    1,104

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Swell.

    I suspect the logical end point to all this will be an official recommendation, posted on the bottle, that perfume not be allowed to come into contact with human skin at all.

    Edit :

    This statement from IFRA would seem to be a relevant post as well :

    http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fra...164442106.html

    From that post :

    The proposed process also includes the right of scrutiny for interested civil society groups. Building upon the initiative, the IFRA also suggests using technologies such as smart labeling, telephone hotlines and websites to help consumers obtain detailed, accurate and beneficial information on fragrance materials, which would allow consumers to evaluate a product in relation to potential skin allergens and their own requirements.
    Telephone hotlines, set up specifically to assist people in evaluating the personal danger posed to them by fragrances ?

    And what sort of practical help would a hotline be able to provide over the phone ? My guess is that all they could really do is suggest that I consult a physician first, before I take the risk of applying any sort of fragrance-containing material ?

    I can't wait to get that phone number, so I can exercise my proper civil scrutiny.

    One thing I can say : They sure are doing a wonderful job of framing perfume as simply one more toxic substance in this ever-dangerous world that wise people need to be afraid of.
    Last edited by Birdboy48; 6th August 2012 at 08:05 PM.

  4. #4
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Interesting.

    Well, please bear this in mind. WE are stakeholders, too. Maybe fragrance lovers need an organization that represents their interests.

    I nominate le MDM to represent us!

    And I have to say, smart labeling seems really smart. So - there is a QR code on the box that takes you to a landing web page, customized for your fragrance, with links to every question you might have, and pages where all your health care questions can be answered. No paper inserts, no warning labels, no JUNK. Just a nice pretty pattern that leads you to tons of information that can be updated in perpetuity.

    SMART.
    * * * *

  5. #5
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Bķzios
    Posts
    78,520

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks for this info.

  6. #6

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by redneck perfumisto View Post
    interesting.


    I nominate le mdm to represent us!

    .
    just let me at them!
    "...a Chacun son Mauvais Gout."

  7. #7

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks for the heads up, Chris.

    It would be funny if it weren't so maddeningly stupid.

    Stock up while you can and if you have the resources go bespoke and sign the requisite 'held harmless' waiver for your supplier, sorry, your perfumer.

  8. #8
    IngaMi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Red Deer area in Alberta
    Posts
    568

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Go get'em MdM!

  9. #9

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks for the info and link, Chris! Can you say which groups of perfume would be affected most - apart from the oakmoss? What contains lyral in particular? I mean if one reads 'limonene' and 'linalool'... that's practically in everything? Are the maximum levels so low that it severly affects perfumes (like oakmoss)?

    I wish these EU goofballs put as much effort in the combat of mass obesity and strangle e.g. the beverage industry, one of the major contributors!!!

  10. #10

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Gosh, not this crap again...please!


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  11. #11

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Lyral appears on labels as Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde - another part of the EU madness is the compulsory use of names that are meaningless to most people: the labelling regulations require an odd mix of chemistry, Latin, French and English that results from multi-national negotiations and ends up being comprehensible only to specialists.

    It was a very widely used lily of the valley fragrance at one time, now you can't put enough of it in for it to be useful for that but even now that it is heavily restricted it is very useful as an enhancer for most florals and many other fragrances. It has an amazing effect on longevity and projection even at tiny doses.

    At the moment it's use is limited not only by the IFRA restriction (to 0.1% in fine fragrance) but also by the fact that marketing departments, understandably, don't want to have to put Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde on the label of a perfume. Reading that is enough to give people a rash . . .

    Limonene appears in practically everything because it is in all citrus oils and those are the one kind of natural still used in huge quantities in mainstream perfume. Linalool is in the natural scent of many types of flower and so is added (as a synthetic) to many, many fragrances to achieve those floral scents. It also appears as part of quite a few natural oils.

    You are probably exposed to more limonene by handling the oranges in your local supermarket than by spraying yourself with fragrance in reality.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge with us!

  13. #13
    Basenotes Plus
    senore01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NEW YORK CITY
    Posts
    3,856
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    In a few years, all frances will be 90% synthetic.

  14. #14

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by senore01 View Post
    In a few years, all frances will be 90% synthetic.
    For all practical purposes this has already happened. Anything you can buy in a Department Store will already be 90% or more synthetic. That isn't just driven by regulations though, the main drivers are cost and consistency:

    Consistency:
    If you are making fragrances on the scale that the big companies now are, then there is a significant issue in keeping consistent supplies that will enable you to ensure that you meet the consumer demand for reliable, consistent product. By consistent supplies I mean not only supplies that are reliably the same (every batch of a natural material is different, depending on origin, climate and so on) but in addition natural products can suddenly leap in price or simply become unavailable as a result of crop failure, outbreak of regional wars or whatever - this happened a couple of years ago with patchouli for example.

    Cost:
    compare the cost of rose otto at upwards of £7,000 per kilo with a top quality synthetic rose blend at about £150 and the incentive to use the synthetic is obvious: a cheap rose blend might be as little as £35 a kilo. That isn't always the case - menthol for example is sometime cheaper when produced from corn mint than when produced from citral in a factory. However even then the total environmental impact can be greater when using menthol derived from mint compared to the manufactured variety.

    Regulation:
    The main impact here isn't so much that natural materials are prohibited (there are far more synthetics prohibited than naturals) but that you have to know how much of the restricted chemicals there is in your natural oil - so for example if I use both nutmeg and clove oils as part of my carnation fragrance (which I do) I have to take account of the fact that both of those oils contain eugenol - and eugenol is restricted to 0.5% in my fragrance - that additional analytical burden just adds to the cost advantage of using synthetic eugenol where I know exactly how much is present when I add it.


    Don't get me wrong here - I'm not against synthetic fragrance materials - I use and love them. But I do regret the loss of many traditional materials like oakmoss, that have been used for centuries. I also believe that a fragrance with less than 50% natural materials in it is likely to be too simplistic to hold your interest for very long. Most of my best fragrances are nearer 80% natural and I don't think that is coincidence.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  15. #15

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    More dreadful news. But thanks for the info, Chris, and yes - I do think perfume users ought to have some say in all this apart from just not buying crap. But how?
    And I guess we can all watch the price of vintages shoot even higher on eBay now.

  16. #16

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks for letting us know.

    Hopefully, this will not lead to further vapid, cheesy, tastelessly corny reformulations.

  17. #17

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Science will continue to improve, and soon the best ingredients will all be synthetic. Better projection, longevity, consistency, variety, etc... I would think... I would hope...
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Creed - Spice & Wood
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Dior - Vetiver
    4.
    by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    5. by Kilian - Cruel Intentions
    6. Puredistance - Black
    7. Tom Ford - Plum Japonais
    8. Neela Vermeire - Trayee
    9. Creed - Royal Oud
    10. Chanel - Egoiste

  18. #18

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Thanks, Chris for sharing this here as well
    It sure sucks for the formulators! But like Red, I sure love the idea of smart labeling
    And I wish there was a 'consumers board' for fragrances that would do some lobby-ing. But who has the time and money to do such a thing nowdays?
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & research network on all things smelly, daily smelly science twitter feed @SomethingSmelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  19. #19

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    <rant>
    They will outlaw flowers next!

    People of intelligence and integrity see this for what it is, a money train for accountants, lawyers and bureaucrats who are not content merely with ruining the worlds economy.
    </rant>

    Off to rub some raw undiluted oakmoss on my wrist (you know what it does not do any harm).

  20. #20
    queen of the universe
    jujy54's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Rustbeltistan on Erie
    Posts
    2,416

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Oh, hell, why not just make them controlled substances, where the consumer signs off on the risk?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  21. #21
    mihailo
    Guest

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    I guess I'll have to find a healthier hobby. I certainly do not want to end up having a rash or eczema.

  22. #22

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    I just picked up my prescription for GIT today...
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Creed - Spice & Wood
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Dior - Vetiver
    4.
    by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    5. by Kilian - Cruel Intentions
    6. Puredistance - Black
    7. Tom Ford - Plum Japonais
    8. Neela Vermeire - Trayee
    9. Creed - Royal Oud
    10. Chanel - Egoiste

  23. #23

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Ellťna, Polge, Sheldrake, Ropion, Duchauffour, Roucel, Wasser... speak up please. We can't hear you.

  24. #24
    Dependent Birdboy48's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Bend Oregon USA
    Posts
    1,104

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by dougczar View Post
    I just picked up my prescription for GIT today...
    Trying hard not to laugh at this.

  25. #25

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
    <rant>
    They will outlaw flowers next!

    People of intelligence and integrity see this for what it is, a money train for accountants, lawyers and bureaucrats who are not content merely with ruining the worlds economy.
    </rant>

    Off to rub some raw undiluted oakmoss on my wrist (you know what it does not do any harm).
    Yes! I've been using rose absolute, jasmine, sandalwood and other essential oils for years as single perfumes directly on my skin. And although I've had some problems with manufactured frags, including eczema and contact dermatitis, I've never had any bad reaction from the EO's. In fact, they affect me positively as the delicious smells bring peace and contentment.

  26. #26

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by dougczar View Post
    I just picked up my prescription for GIT today...
    LAMO!!! Good one

  27. #27

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by redrose View Post
    Yes! I've been using rose absolute, jasmine, sandalwood and other essential oils for years as single perfumes directly on my skin.
    That's where my fragrance wardrobe has been heading towards, over the last couple of years. As I said before, several months ago, it's only going to get worse. Unless you're a perfumer, accept it and try to find your own ways around it - I certainly have.

  28. #28

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    For people interested in more information on the subject, here is the official most recent pdf by SCCS
    http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientifi...sccs_o_102.pdf
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & research network on all things smelly, daily smelly science twitter feed @SomethingSmelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  29. #29

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    What I'd like to know is, and this may sound naive, but is there anything that we as consumers can actually do?

  30. #30
    Frag Bomb Squadron XVII
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    6,379

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by chypre View Post
    What I'd like to know is, and this may sound naive, but is there anything that we as consumers can actually do?
    Yeah, stockpile your holy grail fragrances NOW.

  31. #31
    Dependent Birdboy48's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Bend Oregon USA
    Posts
    1,104

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    For people interested in more information on the subject, here is the official most recent pdf by SCCS
    http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientifi...sccs_o_102.pdf
    Oh bother : I've had experience with "expert advisers" like these.

    They hire a number of "hazard experts" to see if there's a problem, they pay them a substantial sum , and what : after being paid all that money for their expertize, they are going to come back and report that they've *not* found any hazards ?

    Frankly, when it's someone's job description to find problems, you can pretty much bet that they are going to find problems.

    And that the next group of such experts will discover even more.

  32. #32
    BN better than ever
    Quarry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    7,976
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    It's one thing for us to hoard and scoop up vintage, but when that's exhausted, what do future generations do -- wait for the invention of Star Trek replicators to chemically reanimate vintage Mitsouko and Opium extraits?
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  33. #33

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Yeah, stockpile your holy grail fragrances NOW.
    Oh dear, it's getting more and more grim, isn't it?... Yeah I started stockpiling back in 2006 when the furor first exploded. I think it would be a pity to no longer be able to get ANY decent perfumes from retailers though. Now there are still some good ones you can get from retailers, but what about the future?


    As a further question, what about other markets? I know what happens in the EU affects other regions as well, but if the Middle Eastern market is growing, the Asian market has potential etc, then would the fragrance companies consider different regional approaches, like an EU formulation and an non-EU formulation?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    It's one thing for us to hoard and scoop up vintage, but when that's exhausted, what do future generations do -- wait for the invention of Star Trek replicators to chemically reanimate vintage Mitsouko and Opium extraits?
    What would be even more ridiculous would be if people were forced to replicate "vintage Coco Mademoiselle" or "vintage J'Adore".

  34. #34
    Basenotes Junkie
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    624

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Everyone get ready for more inferior reformulations of classics!

  35. #35

    Default Re: EU Prepares to regulate more fragrance ingredients

    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndBakeryAttack View Post
    Everyone get ready for more inferior reformulations of classics!
    I fear that is going to happen!

Similar Threads

  1. Where To Buy Fragrance Ingredients
    By Carla02 in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 8th April 2012, 04:48 PM
  2. High-end vs. low-end fragrance ingredients
    By Cbalducc in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 1st February 2012, 01:13 AM
  3. Too many ingredients?
    By stuigi in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 23rd May 2006, 02:40 PM
  4. Puig prepares next three launches
    By whitechandoo in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10th April 2006, 09:55 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •