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  1. #1

    Default Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Hi there!

    I love cuir de russie parfum, and I am looking to sample more 'elegant plush' civet fragrances, what I am looking for is the 'sexy/warm glowing skin' type, not the 'diaper' type.

    I see many describe jicky as the diaper type which puts me off, but I have also seen reviews describing cuir de russie as barnyard and I don't get that at all - well, I can agree it reminds me of leather horse saddle, but not manure!

    I am not a fan of bitter or wet mossy/damp fragrances (live in ireland, trying to escape the damp in my choice of fragrances - dry moss is ok!). Also really heavy talcum powder ambers become 'too much' for me after about 10 mins wearing.

    Any Recommendations? I am open to male, female or unisex fragrance suggestions.
    Last edited by galwaygirl001; 12th August 2012 at 02:57 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Even if Jocky is excessive on the civet and even if my recommendation is a male scent, apart from having an unisex tone to it and being worn and liked by several ladies on Basenotes, I'd venture to recommend: Mochoir de Monsieur.

    Here, the civet is not so preeminent and carefully, moderately and elegantly intermingled with more dominant leather, lavender and gourmand vanilla notes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Even if Jocky is excessive on the civet and even if my recommendation is a male scent, apart from having an unisex tone to it and being worn and liked by several ladies on Basenotes, I'd venture to recommend: Mochoir de Monsieur.

    Here, the civet is not so preeminent and carefully, moderately and elegantly intermingled with more dominant leather, lavender and gourmand vanilla notes.
    Thank you Ken_Russell. Added Mochoir de Monsieur to my sample list.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Unfortunately, civety florals, a staple of old french perfumery, are pretty much extinct, not least because many of the flowers that civet used to support (jasmine primarily) have been banned. Joy used to be a wonderful civety jasmine, but I have not smelled the post-IFRA version, so not sure how much civet is left there. In vintage, if you happen to find them, check stuff like My Sin, Zibeline, Arpege. Amouage Gold man has plenty of civet still, and it is certainly plush and elegant (I don't detect much civet in the current female version).

    Muscs Koublai Khan, depending on the point of view, can also be described as elegant plush.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Have you tried - Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez or Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens ?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pierre Clementi View Post
    Have you tried - Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez or Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens ?
    Yes, I have tried both - I have current bal a versailles and I am trying to swap it away as it just isn't me - feels like I am wearing someone else's perfume - too talcum/heavy for me. I like Cuir Mauresque, but its not love yet, think its the 'heavy' thing again, I like a lighter feeling fragrance :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Unfortunately, civety florals, a staple of old french perfumery, are pretty much extinct, not least because many of the flowers that civet used to support (jasmine primarily) have been banned. Joy used to be a wonderful civety jasmine, but I have not smelled the post-IFRA version, so not sure how much civet is left there. In vintage, if you happen to find them, check stuff like My Sin, Zibeline, Arpege. Amouage Gold man has plenty of civet still, and it is certainly plush and elegant (I don't detect much civet in the current female version).

    Muscs Koublai Khan, depending on the point of view, can also be described as elegant plush.

    cacio
    Cacio,

    Thats what I was afraid of - think I am transitioning onto the next phase in perfume hobby/addiction - vintage ;-) My Sin, Zibeline, Arpege, eh? Must sample and hope I don't need to add them to my 'saved search' section on ebay!

    Muscs Koublai Khan was too diaper for me - my husband sniffed it on me and recoiled in horror!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Hello! I think you might enjoy Guerlains Sous Le Vent, a lovely dry chypre with animalic undertones. Also try Amouage Gold, but that may be a little powdery for you. And Shalimar has quite an animalic side along with all its lush vanilla.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Re: the suggested Bal a Versailles, the current edt turns into powder quite quickly on me too, after a nice animalic start. But the edc is different, more animalic. Unfortunately, that's vintage too.

    cacio

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    My recommend is the lovely (to my nose) Le Temps D'Aimer by Alain Delon. It's much much lighter than Bal a V. A woodsy-floral made in traditional french style.
    Top notes are aldehydes, green notes, peach and brazilian rosewood; middle notes are cloves, , gardenia, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are leather, amber, patchouli, coconut, civet, vanilla, oakmoss and styrax.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    One of the most interesting modern civet-centered composition is Intrigant Patchouli. Modern in the meaning that is not an older fragrance now reformulated yet definitely classic in smell. Civety, plush and smooth yet thick and dark, just gorgeous. I'll definitely second Bal A Versailles EDC which you can still find for incredibly cheap. Jicky in pure parfum is a stunner.

    Also, check Ungaro II (lavender and civet on a smooth woody-vanilla base).

    A few words you would probably want to keep in mind. Civet-centered fragrance, expecially when vintage, are not exactly easy to approach. My suggestion is to revisit some of the stuff you dismissed (e.g. MKK) on a second time. Explore as much animalic fragrances as you want, acquire the taste and then, try to give a second chance to what you initially didn't like.

    Here are a few other random suggestions...

    Leather Oud
    Rien
    Shalimar (vintage)
    Bethrotal
    Ubar
    Jolie Madame (vintage)
    Peau D'Espagne
    Kouros


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  11. #11

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Rien is not really for beginners I would say. And to my nose mouchoir de monsieur has not less civet than jicky. It's a great frqgrwnce though. Must de cartier has civet in it, at least my nose detects it.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Quote Originally Posted by galwaygirl001 View Post
    Yes, I have tried both - I have current bal a versailles and I am trying to swap it away as it just isn't me - feels like I am wearing someone else's perfume - too talcum/heavy for me. I like Cuir Mauresque, but its not love yet, think its the 'heavy' thing again, I like a lighter feeling fragrance :-)



    Cacio,

    Thats what I was afraid of - think I am transitioning onto the next phase in perfume hobby/addiction - vintage ;-) My Sin, Zibeline, Arpege, eh? Must sample and hope I don't need to add them to my 'saved search' section on ebay!

    Muscs Koublai Khan was too diaper for me - my husband sniffed it on me and recoiled in horror!
    Galwaygirl, it does look like you are getting into the next phase, and it is so enjoyable - nothing like learning to love something old and sometimes a little odd I'd try the Bal a Versaille again, edc, and the Jicky pure perfume, vintage if you can get it. Lots of other good recommendations here too. Have fun with all your saved ebay searches - I have no end of those myself...

  13. #13

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Amouage Gold.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Like other have said, try Mochoir de Monsieur. For a civet heavy cheapie try Jean Pascal for men. It may be a little much for you though.
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Several to explore:

    Chanel No. 5
    Dior Diorissimo
    Jean Patou Joy
    Givenchy Ysatis
    Estee Lauder Knowing
    Guerlain Shalimar
    Calvin Klein Obsession
    Laura Biagiotti Roma
    Carolina Herrera Carolina Herrera
    Versace Blonde
    Cartier Panthere
    Joop! Joop! Femme
    Elizabeth Taylor Passion
    Nina Ricci Nina
    Benetton Colors de Benetton

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Another for Rien

  17. #17

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Ysl pour homme haute concentration

  18. #18

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Have you tried the vintage Coty Chypre? Maybe slightly bitter, but it has the greatest civet effect I have smelled which, coupled with the powdery musk might give that "plush" feeling you're after.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    galwaygirl, I have a feeling that you are not looking for civet in particular, but you could be smitten by the cuir de russie touch that the parfum still has (birch tar). However, IMO ylang-ylang is a big player to create the overall effect of Cuir de Russie Parfum. So, I find Guerlain Vega not too distant from its effect. Also you might want to try Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's new Cuir Fetiche. Otherwise, like cacio said, for real cuir-de-russie fragrances vintage is your way... the Lanvins etc.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    I wore Mouchoir de Monsieur to Her Majesty's Theatre yesterday, two hours after application. Its civet behaved politely, and I did not regret wearing it; it is a beautiful composition, and I recommend it. Living in Ireland, you may rarely experience the truly animalic side of civet, for that tends to come out in the heat and humidity. Under cool conditions, it will not often 'stick out' of many fragrances, but remain a well-blended (yet still addictive) note. Jicky EdT on a day of tropical humidity is a mindblowing experience - I retain indelible memories of that afternoon. The current composition of Bal a Versailles, EdT concentration, has some detractors, but I think it rather pleasant civetous oriental.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Ooh, interesting discussion - I was about to post something similar when I just spotted this.

    A lot of fragrances are hard to sample where I live, but yesterday I was in Manchester and I took full advantage of there being a Selfridges and House of Fraser there.

    One of the fragrances I sampled at Selfridges was Cuir de Russie, and I can see why you like it - it's really good, and definitely something I'd wear (I really don't care about male/female designations - many of the distinctions seem bizarre to me).

    Talking of civet, one of my favourites is Givenchy Gentleman, which has civet and leather in the mix - and to me both notes work very well - if you like civet and you like Cuir de Russie, it might be worth a try.

    I also sampled, at House of Fraser, another one that has been mentioned here - Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur. And it's beautiful - there's musky civet in it, but it also has a complex blend of other notes that all seem to work together really well. I sprayed a sample and walked around in the fresh air with it for a while, and the only thing that stopped me buying it is that when I went back to the store, they didn't actually have any for sale - they only had the tester.
    Alan

  22. #22

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Do you mean the L'Air Rein by Miller HArris?

  23. #23

    Default Re: Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingpharroh View Post
    Do you mean the L'Air Rein by Miller HArris?
    I think they're talking about Rein by Etat Libre d'Orange.

  24. #24
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    Default

    Eau d'Hermes is a civet fragrance, with citrus and other notes. Recommended.

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