This is fun...so glad you are enjoying the Grand Dame of Sample Passes.
My Goutal collection more than doubled as a result of this pass.
So much fun to read everyone's reactions!
"Great art picks up where nature ends.”
- Marc Chagall
Oh, wow! Genie Jeanie, you're a super fast sniffer! Great reviews as always! And I'm glad you're over your cold and your nose is in top form again! I'm sick now, but it's ok--- I can still smell and it is a great excuse to be on BN all day! lol!
Eau de Charlotte is definitely a cuddly favorite of mine too! On my skin, the greens keep it cool and clean so it doesn't get too sweet though. In some ways, the greens remind me a tiny bit of Folavril, but without the tomato leaf.
I'm glad to hear that Un Matin d'Orage didn't disappoint entirely after waiting out the gardenia, lol! That one also had a distinctly cool feel for me too-- possibly from something green again-- I haven't quite figured it out...
Your description of Grand Amour makes me want to sniff from my decant again! I liked it enough to get a decant, but the last time I wore it, it had some musty element that was less than wonderful, and reminded me of cigarette breath. I hope it hasn't turned or something!
Thank you for the great reviews!!!! Great job!!!
Ya, Genie..don't ever see me liking gardenia. Ineke came kinda close..lol..I thought..hmm, maybe not too bad, so I put on a full wear, mistake. The gardenia really started to come out, during church, and totally distracted me for a bit. I wanted to scrub it off..that annoying note! I was like..oh, uh oh..the gardenia is really taking off! Make it stop! That Hothouse isn't too bad at first, actually kinda nice..I kinda dig a bit.. but that gardenia goes full bloom after a bit...and I go fully to the sink to wash! lol. But I tried. There are things I really like about Hothouse though. It's just when that gardenia really comes out...sorry, can't do it. I wanted to fully to like it...but in the end, nope!
Since the pass is still going around, I check in to see how everyone is enjoying the samples.
It's gotten cold here, so Grand Amour will be sitting on my dressing table again....along with the original three Orientalists.
"Great art picks up where nature ends.”
- Marc Chagall
Goutal-o-rama must have a special signature base of greeness. My three favorites from Annick Goutal are all not so green as others:
Un Matin d'Orage is fresh, light-hearted gardenia flower after a summer shower.
Songes is sweat woody jasmine, lush and seductive
Heure Exquise is misty iris emerged from a summer garden
My sales thread:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/414234
Sorry for the holdup here. Again! I got sidetracked for a few days, but hope to "get 'er done" today.
- - - Updated - - -
It's been another fragrant day with Annick Goutal! I believe I've sampled all of the bottles so here's a summery of the last of the lot.
EAU DE CAMILLE - Opens very bright & green. I’m not overly fond of green notes, but Camille is a very fresh & dewy green, with no harsh or astringent notes. The scent is joined by a floral bouquet that quickly turns into a very intense honeysuckle. It softens considerably in the drydown to a scent that smells like Springtime. While I prefer her sister Charlotte, Eau de Camille is quite nice.
NEROLI - Very sweet floral opening here. It reminds me of the smell of the orange blossom honey you find everywhere here in Florida. And some sort of resin or evergreen. Maybe cedar or pine. Maybe holly. Scent is very linear. Stays the same from top notes to drydown. A good scent for layering.
DES LYS - Fresh delicate lily. Green & white of the plant. As kalli noted, it almost seems a bit aquatic at the opening. There is also another note which is hard for me to pinpoint. Almost like a touch of suede. Very clean & natural!
LA VIOLETTE - I’ve missed my little sample of La Violette & waited until I’d “earned” it to apply it once again. The opening just shouts purple. It exudes the beautiful aspects of a tight little violet bouquet right out of the garden, stems, leaves & all. A little touch of rose in the drydown creates a scent that is soft & feminine.This one ranks high on my list of wants!
HEURE EXQUISE - Heure Exquise is a beautiful iris creation. As the scent develops it intertwines with rose & a slightly musky note. Sandalwood in the drydown balances the scent into an inviting, warm carress. Wishing for a little more heft, but beautiful none the less. Big thumbs up on this one!!
SONGES - Songes opens as a big sweet bouquet of white flowers. The gardenia note speaks the loudest at the start, but is tempered by my preferred notes of ylang & jasmine as the scent progresses. It then becomes smoother & more subdued in the drydown, as a touch of amber & wood tame the intensity of the sweeness. For me, Songes has the greatest longevity of the florals. A tropical delight.
Well, this has been quite a fun & educational journey!!! I don't think I've ever had the opportunity to experience so many scents from one house before & certainly not at the same time! The recurrent "theme" of Goutal becomes so apparent with this type of power-sampling. She has such a distinctive, unique signature embedded into her scents. It's unmistakable once you "get it." I've discovered some likes & a few must haves. To me, that's a very successful venture! I think there's something here for everyone.
Huge thanks & hugs to cestrum nocturnum for organizing this marathon! And many thanks to all the wonderful BNers who have contributed along the way. I won't name names so that no one is left out, but this has become such a massive group endeavor! Samples have come from so many people, with some not even being active participants. I feel blessed to be a part of such a generous community.
The samples will get sealed & wrapped up tomorrow for their journey to Cacio. Hope you're ready, my friend!!
Last edited by Genie Jeanie; 16th November 2012 at 06:32 PM.
Wonderful description ... I am in Italy until nov 26, and connecting very intermittently if at all. I forgot, if there is anybody after me, it is easier if he or she goes first (or if anybody wants to jump in).
I'm more than happy to send the scents on to PerfumedLady & she can pass them along to you. That will give you a bit of time to recuperate from your travels before testing.
I hope the weather is good & that you're having a fabulous time. And I just have to ask... What scents did you choose to take on your vacation?
Great reviews and descriptions Genie Jeanie!
I am so pleased that the sample pass grew into a beautiful survey of so many scents through the generosity of so many! And I wholeheartedly agree; BN *is* a wonderful, amazing community! I think we need a giant group hug now. <3
Group hug! Yay!
I saw we agree again, Genie Jeanie! I thought that Heure Exquise and La Violette are the best of Goutals, but they are very, very similar to Chanel 19 and Iris de Nuit, respectively.
Just a quick one to let you all know I now have the Goutal-o-rama! Made it here yesterday, right before the holiday, thanks to Genie Jeanie's speediness. If only UPS were this sharp, I wouldn't have to wait until next week for that new HdP!
Lovely presentation, cn, you really made these look inviting! Can't wait to dig in! Your lavender smells so beautiful and so different from mine (probably different varieties, mine is English); we must have a chat about our plants someday!
Plan to start these over the weekend- back soon!
- - - Updated - - -
O.k., I finally made enough of a dent in these to start posting! Before this pass, I had only tried a handful of Goutals, most of them roses. I didn't find a scent I loved enough to own but I really liked most of them. My previous sampling indicated to me this house could be a great fit for me style-wise and it's starting to appear that I do indeed love that Goutal aesthetic!
Eau de Camille- These sister scents are both very pretty. Camille is my favorite of the two; no surprise as I love my greens and this actually lists grass as a note. It is very grassy but not sharply so. It isn't piercing like galbanum nor does it become damp or swampy like moss. Not pungent as in herbal greens. Truly just grassy and fresh but that's not to say it's boring. The lilac and honeysuckle interplay is quite interesting to me; the honeysuckle works to tame lilac, which can be sharply soapy. May try this again in spring, could be a nice alternative to the usual citrus-galbanum-hyacinth heavy greens I like to wear then.
Eau de Charlotte- while I like Camille better, this one is no slouch! Feels very modern to me in spite of its early 80's creation. Rather like the traditional floral aldehydes stripped down to their balsamic floral hearts. Sparkly pretty powder! Too sweet for me but enjoyed it nonetheless.
La Violette- the less said about violet soliflores and me, the better. I think violet is a beautiful note but I prefer mine with some edge. This note in soliflore just leaves me wanting. But I have to say, I like this one better than most I've tried. The violet note strikes that perfect balance between candied and green to my nose, much like that of The Queen of Edgy Violets, Jolie Madame.
Rose Absolue- had tried this one before and my appreciation only grew with a second sampling. After all that rambling about no violet soliflores, I do LOVE rose soliflores when done right. This bouquet has every type of rose and nothing else. It's up to the quality of the rose materials to perform their magic on skin and here, it works. Soft and petal-y all the way through and so, so beautiful.
Sables- tried this previously, too- and from cacio's bottle! So, my dear, I got the pleasure of spending a bit more time with your lovely scent. This is solidly masculine to my nose and IMO, one of the best out there. Immortelle is not heavy or syrupy to me here, just sweetly autumnal. Strong, unique, very manly-yet very snuggly and cozy. All masculines should be composed and executed with the quality and care shown here.
Mandragore- sigh, swoon, faint! Found a love here already, thanks a lot, cn. An iris scent masquerading as a happy, fresh, citrus. For all the talk of mint, it wasn't very prominent on this skin but the spices (anise, ginger and black pepper) were. I never really seemed to click with pepper as a perfume note when this spice was having its 15 minutes but that's because I hadn't tried Mandragore. Love how it's done so airily here, lightly spicy but does not sacrifice presence for the sheerness. Perfectly blended and only grows more addictive with time on skin. All the elements here are given the same weight and heft, which makes it all so seamless. Even the labdanum and heavier base notes are treated with such a delicate hand, this never veers into true oriental territory. I know our Matildaben loves this and I believe she recently got Quarry hooked. I see why. Will need at least a decant of this. I am always beyond happy when I find an interesting take on my love, the iris!
Now, back to work on the Goutal-o-rama sampling! See you all again soon!
- - - Updated - - -
Le Muguet- I can do lily of the valley as part of a bouquet in perfume but never have gotten along with large doses of it. Too sharp, too sweet, too head-splitting. This type of scent is the equivalent of a jackhammer to the brain for me. The only one I've come close to being able to wear is Penhaligon's Lily of the Valley, with it's hefty dose of green. Even that one is a scent I have no plans of meeting again. That said, Le Muguet is probably among the more natural smelling lov scents available, given all the restrictions on the needed materials. A very challenging scent category for me and this sample did not change that.
Ce Soir ou Jamais- this is called an "Eternity wannabe" in The Guide and having worn Eternity back in the day, I must say I have no idea where that's coming from. Not an inkling of Eternity here. But I do love the book very much and appreciate the hours of good-natured arguing I've had with LT & TS in my head! Tried this previously, even went through a fairly large decant, nearly bought it. In the end, that pear note is just too synthetically sticky feeling to me. This is like a photo album (of smell), tracking the growing rose through all its stages. Starts off clear, bright and fresh and progresses through rich, jammy and wine-like right on up to dried potpourri. Do still love this one, in spite of that pear.
Last edited by PerfumedLady; 27th November 2012 at 11:57 PM.
The nose wants what it wants!
Well, I sucked it up and started on the Big White Florals.
Gardenia Passion- well, the slightly mentholated tuberose note is nice but Ms. Goutal failed in hiding that gardenia altogether. This nose prefers to stay far away from gardenia! Just very obnoxious and unpleasant to my nose. Would change seats if I were stuck sitting next to this one.
Songes- now jasmine and I get along fine! This is pretty, if not earth-shattering. Nice clean jasmine, just how I like it, along with ylang and I think a tiny smattering of that minty tuberose. Not compelled to spend more time with this but very glad I finally tried it.
Des Lys- I keep trying lily scents even though I don't seem to like wearing them because I grow lilies and do love the scent of the actual flower. Des Lys does not come close to realism. For realistic lilies, one could do better with Penhaligon's Lily & Spice, Ava Luxe Madonna Lily, or Malle's Lys Mediterranee.
Neroli- this one tricked me! When I think neroli, I think screechy orange blossom, which is second only to gardenia on my list of disliked notes. Not here, though- Neroli stays smooth, clear, citrusy and happy. The only neroli scent I've tried that I'd be happy to meet again! This never plays that nasty joke on me that most nerolis do- turning from bright and lovely to hissing, snarling and smothering. No, this Neroli is very friendly on this skin! Very nice surprise! No big white floral notes here at all.
EDIT: No idea how I did it but the thread finally bumped to the top! For those following along, I have another novella length post right above this one.
Last edited by PerfumedLady; 28th November 2012 at 06:03 PM.
The nose wants what it wants!
Hey PL, there you are!! I had the same problem getting my reviews to update the thread, as they sank into the abyss at the bottom of the page. I should have checked in on you!!
Great reviews! I'm reading over them saying to myself, "that's what I was trying to say," but you are much more articulate with your descriptions than I am. Very fun read!
" This nose prefers to stay far away from gardenia! Just very obnoxious and unpleasant to my nose. Would change seats if I were stuck sitting next to this one".
ROFL!! I've never tried to hide my relationship with this one. Gardenia smells wonderful on *some* people, but I'm not one of them either. But I did enjoy the Neroli too. I hope you like citrus. There are some very nice ones coming up for you!
That's o.k. Genie Jeanie! It just happens sometimes. Don't know why we can't just start a new post after our last one, we used to be able to.
Please do not sell yourself short! Believe me, I've noticed how these sample passes have been refining your nose- and so quickly! Your write-up of Gardenia Passion is actually my favorite kind: short, to the point, informative and hilarious! I'd be much happier if I could fit my thoughts into a few sentences like you, cacio and some of the others I've done passes with. And our Twolf is a master at making her point with only a few words! I'm afraid I'm too naturally wordy to ever reach that goal but I try. You are very articulate, Genie, and a real asset to these passes.
Yes, I do like citrus! I'm excited to try Eau d'Hadrien- but first, I must steel myself for Un Matin d'Orage! And I'm still cracking up about Annick Goutal being urged to create a gardenia scent because American women liked the scent so much (as per The Guide)! Of course, some must love it; just hard to prove by this group!
Last edited by PerfumedLady; 28th November 2012 at 10:26 PM.
The nose wants what it wants!
Oh, I am sooooooooo late to PerfumedLady's sniffing turn . I am so sorry!
It was so interesting to read your impressions! There is IRIS in Mandragore? I need to try it again! I thought it smelled rather sophisticated for a mojito . Agree about Neroli, it's a good one for neroli fans, to me the opening smelled exactly like essential oil I add to my facial creams and lotions. I do like it, but per my skincare routine I associate it with my creams and lotions. I haven't smelled real lilies, thank you for clarifying that Des Lys doesn't come close - I did like Lys Mediterrannee. Un Matin D'Orage is not most offensive gardenia I have ever smelled, I thought it was romantic and not as obnoxious as some. But I am really curious to see what you will think about Nuit's d'Hadrien - I also have a feeling that you might like Eau de Sud with it's classy chypre vibe.
I do hope you will feel better soon. Sending you healing vibes and chicken noodle soup!
Genie Jeanie, I absolutely agree with PerfumedLady - Don't sell yourself short! I still chuckle by myself like a crazy woman when I remember your drunken gardenia review.
Oh, PerfumedLady, you have written such wonderful reviews! I'm sorry I've been MIA. I'm so pleased that Camille was enjoyable! I agree, it is a lovely scent that just sings of springtime, doesn't it? Ce Soir-- what a perfect description-- it does capture the life cycle of a rose. My mom actually complimented me on it once! (And she is really *not* into perfumes, lol!) Oh, and sorry about the big white flowers! I think my skin mutes them; it has been so informative to read about all of the varying (and mostly negative! eek!) impressions!
Genie Jeanie , I must concur, your reviews are wonderful! Don't be shy! And, I too, wish that I could be less verbose and write clever, short and witty reviews! I'm so happy that you joined the pass!
Lol, we will just have to content ourselves with being some of the chattier samplers, cn! I think you and I are alike in that writing about scents is what really unlocks our thoughts on them. Emily Dickinson said something along the lines of "how can I know what I think until I see what I've written?" Sound familiar? Sure does to me! Thank goodness, we have room for all types of writers here! Anyway, I know your posts must be very helpful to many, many people. Your nose does not miss a note!
And no apologies necessary! I know your plate is full and really, I'm only about halfway through these. I am able to smell again-YAY!-and will update later this evening with some more thoughts. Had been looking forward to Grand Amour and now that I'm in it, can't get past the "ooh, ahh, pretty!" just yet!
No apologies allowed for the white florals, either! Right now, the only gardenia I can love is Mimi. But after that tuberose fiasco, you better believe I'll be keeping my mind open about other challenging notes!
Thanks for the well wishes, Whitefluffy! I hope I have you talked into trying Mandragore again! May just be the one citrus with enough depth and mystery for you!
- - - Updated - - -
O.k., after the minor setback of sniffles, I'm back on the Goutal-go-round!
Un Matin d'Orage- now this is getting closer to a gardenia I could do! Very sharply green, almost poisonously bitter opening, which I love. The bracing quality of the green notes keep the gardenia from becoming too heady, lush and sweet for me. Really true to life tropical florals here. Can almost feel the humidity of the greenhouse when sniffing this yet it never becomes sticky or cloying. That pure, clean Goutal jasmine adds just the right touch of floral sweetness. My only beef here would be this scent is a bit linear once the fascinating greens tire out and the drydown a little lackluster. Maybe wouldn't buy this one but wouldn't turn it away if a sample or decant makes its way toward me again. Consider this gardenia hater impressed!
Passion- Oooh, another tuberose I love! What is happening to me? This really is structurally a classic white floral chypre but it doesn't wear anything like the overly heady members of this bunch (like say, 24 Faubourg). Again the florals are clean, non-animalic; no terribly challenging white flowers here, even if the notes sound scary. Beautiful soft, mossy patchouli drydown. A very smooth, airy, well-behaved scent that just smells gorgeous. Would like a nice fat decant of this one.
Le Mimosa- starts off very naturally floral, impressively so- but it took me right back to RHM's giant peach as it developed. I do love peachy florals but don't want my peach too syrupy or sticky. This one, combined with that musk drydown, takes the sugar over the top for me. Not my kind of scent but as with most Goutals so far, wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to someone more suited to it. It is a very well done polite floral.
Heure Exquise- This is the last one from the group with which I am already acquainted. And I love it! I'm happy whenever HE and I cross paths so you all know I had a dab! This is probably the most powdery green I know. The iris here is fluffy and comfy; relaxing instead of moody or earthy. I'm a green lover and this one stands apart from all the others I love enough that it may just find a home with me one of these days. This is the olfactory equivalent of my giant goose down comforter with its pale green duvet cover. And every bit as peaceful and calming. When I first tried it, I thought it must be one of Goutal's best but had not tried enough to know that for sure. Now, I'm finding it certainly does come out at the top for me. Every once in a while, we get threads posted about favorite or best green scents; this one always belongs on that list.
Vanille Exquise- I'm hard on vanillas, I'm spoiled by Shalimar's otherwordly vanilla. That is what I reach for when I want vanilla. But this one impresses me. It's a sweeter, boozier vanilla than I like but it does capture something of Shalimar's strange, burnt and smoky vibe. Being without Shalimar's sometimes harsh bergamot, I can see VE being quite a crowd pleaser. Very pleasant but I'll stick with the old Grand Dame.
Grand Amour- like this one a lot, too! Where Heure Exquise falls into the Chanel No.19 style of greens, this one belongs in the Cristalle family. This is one to try if you love Cristalle's hyacinths but can't do its mossy, ashy notes. This is just crisp florals and a faint touch of suede. Can pick out some high quality rose and a honeysuckle note that is true to nature, delicately sweet. The essence of spring. Very, very nicely done. Which brings me to a very bold request- we have two almost full vials of this one still; does anyone mind me keeping the opened one for a bit more investigation? We only have cacio left behind me; this would leave him a full, unopened vial. Wouldn't even think of asking otherwise but this one is very much my style!
Last edited by PerfumedLady; 4th December 2012 at 05:31 AM.
The nose wants what it wants!
Glad you're feeling better, PerfumedLady! Sounds like you're a power sniffer like me. I think I would have gone into next year if I'd tested them out one at a time. Glad you found some love for a few of the white flowers. Passion is the only scent containing that *t word* that I can tolerate! I'm more than happy to help Santa out with your list & will send you a decant.
And hey, I like reading the *chattier samplers* reviews!! You guys are the bomb!
Genie, thank you for your sweet and generous offer! I'll take you up on it but I insist on putting a package of goodies together for you right after Christmas. You've mailed so many sample passes to me, it's about time you get a little reward! Passion is beautiful, nothing frightening about that *t word* in there at all! Yes, I do like to power sniff when I can! It really comes in handy if it's your style of sampling, for instance when I got the sniffles. At least I knew I could rest a few days without falling behind. And other people need more time which is great, too. Different types of samplers only complement one another. Same with posting our impressions-it's all these unique individuals who make these passes so helpful and interesting. Doesn't matter if you prefer to say a little or a lot. You're all the bomb!
It's been all citrus-y and energetic today here- sampled Eau d'Hadrien and Les Nuits d'Hadrien. Eau d'Hadrien is my favorite of the two, those lemons & garpefruits stay fresh and biting on this skin a long time. The addition of ylang makes this interesting to me; I've only ever encountered it in a traditional EDC style scent as part of a bouquet, usually along with orange blossom/neroli. Here it's one of the star players and the only floral I detect. All tart lemons and smooth ylang on me until the soft, woody drydown. A standout citrus, so glad I finally tried it. It feels a bit too masculine for me but I'd encourage any other citrus lover to give it a go, regardless of gender. Specifically it's the sharp handling of the basil note that makes this lean masculine to my nose. This is among my favorite citruses I know of now, even if not for my own skin. Les Nuits surprised me by being even more masculine in style and while it's nicely done, I don't care for it as much as Eau. Les Nuits is more powdery orange where Eau's citruses are more acidic and I just prefer the latter. I get hints of neroli but not much else floral. Toward the drydown, it does start to lose some of the masculine edge and starts to lean more woody floriental. A great citrus, just too manly for me and not my preferred citrus notes. Would be thrilled if the Mr. wanted to wear these but of course, he is not a citrus kind of guy.
The nose wants what it wants!
I am so glad you that you liked Eau d'Hadrien! And I am so getting it! (In my previous post I meant Eau d'Hadrien, not Nuits d'Hadrien, I am officially losing my mind ) You know how I don't like colognes and anything citrus-y at all, but Annick should have a statue in her honor for convincing me otherwise. I was dead set not to care for it, and now I am in love! Aren't these passes great? We all get our worlds turned upside down when we least expect it. As for Un Matin d'Orage I knew you won't completely hate it, because I almost liked it too. There is another reason Annick deserves a statue, for creating gardenia that we both consider(!) in our wardrobes.
Well, now, that will really add something different to your collection, Whitefluffy! What a wonderful choice! Yes, I think maybe Annick deserves an award for being one of the most surprising houses, as well as the statues. I expected to like the citruses and delicate, airy florals but I was not prepared for how Manly ( with a capital M!) this house can be. Such a pleasant surprise and I hope lots of men will check AG out. Was also very, very surprised to find another tuberose to love here-and a gardenia I don't hate! We are so lucky to be able to explore this house in such an intensive, in depth manner. Sounds like most of us have found something to help us lighten our wallets!
I have just four left to go! Am taking a break today and for sync Friday but I will be mailing to cacio early next week! Can't wait to see if he finds any surprises here!
The nose wants what it wants!
PerfumedLady, thank you for the excellent reviews as always! I'm so pleased that this pass has grown so much that there is practically something for everyone! lol! I really appreciated your description of the variations in the two Hadriens; that exactly captures how they smell to me too! Nuits d’Hadrien *is* more masculine to my nose… but I do like basil quite a bit, so that doesn’t stop me!
Lol, I will try to think of my writing style as “chatty” as opposed to longwinded or rambling—that sounds so much nicer! If I didn’t struggle to really “understand” fragrances, I would probably blather less. I hope it gets easier as I gain experience.
Oh, and you have my vote regarding the extra vial of Grand Amour-- I think it has your name on it!!!!
Thank you, cn! I mailed the box to cacio this morning and I did keep the partial vial of Grand Amour! I hope no one else minds! cacio, I'm sorry, I didn't get a chance to check with you about any samples I could tuck in as extras, which I always like to do in sample passes. Please check my wardrobe after the holidays and see if I can send you a goody package!
This has been so much fun and educational for me! Besides the ones I already mentioned, I had only tried Quel Amour and Rose Splendide, so I guess there were only 6 I knew from this house. Now I know so many more and I do like the Goutal style very much. My favorite new discoveries were Mandragore and Passion, loved them both and will track down more of them. Thank you so much cn, I had been wanting an in depth Goutal exploration for a long time! Even better that I got to do it with friends! Everything about this pass is so thoughtful and lovely; you really did a fantastic job putting this together. I appreciate your efforts so very much!
Last 4 and I thankfully did not find any more loves!:
Eau de Sud- at first I thought I had found a love here. I love the fresh and juicy grapefruit and bergamot opening with the moss lurking beneath. Seemed all set to be right up my alley. Citruses have always been friendly to this skin so I was surprised to find the grapefruit souring as the scent progressed. I've heard of grapefruit being compared to b.o. and never had a clue what those folks were talking about until now. Yep, sort of a briny funk. As the oakmoss became more prominent toward the drydown, this combo of citrusy, salty body odor with the damp darkness of the moss took on an attract/repel quality for me. Interesting but not something I can wear.
Le Chevrefeuille- beautiful honeysuckle scent, lightly sweet and green. Pretty and springy in a straightforward, simple way. Not much to say on this though I'd gladly wear it. Sometimes one needs inoffensive, lovely and elegant things and this is well done enough to keep me interested. Not every scent need be a thinker.
Duel- oh, my, another gorgeous masculine! I could almost do this one myself and I bet lots of women do. Very leathery, I was surprised as I expected the Goutal take on leather to be faint and airy. It is not, it is most definitely present and hefty. Leather and iris make a perfect pair if you ask me and this scent is one more reason why. Again a simple idea well executed and again, an extremely elegant result.
Folavril- expected to love this one but I don't. Don't hate it, just was a bit bored with it. The tomato leaf, while pleasant at first, does wear out its welcome with me. This is not a bad scent by any means but there are many other delicate green florals from this house I'd rather wear.
I was so surprised that I found so many scents here I'd love to sniff on a man! Plenty here worthwhile for the guys to explore. For myself, I think I like the Goutal florals most overall but there were some fantastic citruses here, too. I think there must be something here for just about everyone, I really am so impressed by this house's work. Thanks again, cn! I've had a blast!
The nose wants what it wants!
Thanks, looking forward!
Just got the packet. What a bounty! Thank-you so much! (and the nice sachet too).
Just put on two random ones:
Violette: a very good one, this one seems to veer off towards the sweet flower. Chowards mints. If I remember well, compared to the penhaligon, this is sweeter. Somebody mentioned Jolie Madame before, and of course, JM's underlying bitter, s&m leather is on a different planet.
Eau de Charlotte: sparkly sweet, balanced by some green vegetal note. Not a big fan of sweets here, but in the genre, this is a standout. Regrettably, I'm afraid this is probably not sweet and slutty enough for current trashy teens, who are rather enticed by pink cupcakes.
Last edited by cacio; 20th December 2012 at 04:38 PM.
That was me with the Jolie Madame reference! But I was only comparing the sweetness of the violets, not the compositions. Probably goes without saying that I'd rather wear the far more interesting JM!
Not surprised our thoughts on Charlotte were similar; too sweet for me, too. I'm curious to see if you'll like the drier Camille better. Actually, I'm interested in your thoughts on all the greenies in that box, cacio!
The nose wants what it wants!
Looking forward to the greenies - I tend to like green.
EdCharlotte turned a little bit less sweet as it went, and the green soap was more evident. Still - I prefer my greens sharper.
Wearing Mandragore now. Pleasant, slightly aromatic, slightly sweet, no poison (the mandrake plant, incidentally, doesn't smell like anything. It's the root that can be poisonous). Should be used instead of some masculine sweet gourmands. But not a genre I tend to gravitate towards.
Also have little paperstrips in my pocket with Muguet and Folavril. Muguet is nice and clean, and among the set of current muguets, one of the least functional smelling. But alas, this keeps verifying Luca Turin's dictum that it is now impossible to do a great muguet. And vintage Diorissimo is miles away. Folavril is also a nice pleasant floral, slightly green and clean. Nice, but it doesn't really move me.
I am also wearing a dab of Eau de Camille (I believe) on my wrist. Nice very sharp green top. Now a more sedate greenish soap. More of an eau than a real perfume.
- - - Updated - - -
A few more tried:
Lys: I like lilies, but this one is rather clean, fully a white floral without ham or salami. Nice, but I wish it had a little more depth.
Mimosa: in the sense of cocktail more than flower. A touch too sweet, but extremely light. My skin, which eats perfumes, devoured this in about 10 minutes.
Eau d'Hadrien: lemony, citrusy, but veering towards kitchen functional. Likely, reformulation is to blame.
Nuits d'hadrien: citrusy but with something fresh and green. I liked this one better than the EdH. A very good freshener.
Vanille exquise: sharp vanilla, perhaps better than the Guerlain SDV, but still not particularly good.
Passion: very interesting tropical floral, with both a fresh note, and a creamy lactonic one. This when smelled up close. From a distance, and through the clothes, a strange note prevails - and I must be hypersensitive to it. It's thick, creamy, but claustrophobic, almost makes me gasp for air. Somehow, I vaguely associate it with some functional bath product of when I was a child. Perhaps some hair spray? Or something like that. And it's a note I sometimes smell in other perfumes. Given my dislike, this very much destroys the frag for me.
Gardenia Passion: as others have said, more like a polite tuberose.
Rose absolue: good rose soliflore.
Cacio, you’ve been a busy bee! Thank you for sharing your impressions. I hope none of the others prove as awful for you as Passion! That sounds remarkably dreadful—particularly the claustrophobic part! Eek. Loved your hilarious descriptions of Charlotte and Mimose! Thanks for the chuckle! I have to run and finish wrapping gifts and baking, but I look forward to reading more of your wonderful reviews!