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Thread: Goutal-o-rama

  1. #121
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    This is fun...so glad you are enjoying the Grand Dame of Sample Passes.

    My Goutal collection more than doubled as a result of this pass.

    So much fun to read everyone's reactions!
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  2. #122

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by RHM View Post
    This is fun...so glad you are enjoying the Grand Dame of Sample Passes.

    My Goutal collection more than doubled as a result of this pass.

    So much fun to read everyone's reactions!
    Hi RHM! So good to see you!

    I'm making a wish list of the scents I want too. So far Eau D'Hadrien is my top choice.
    Of course, I'm not quite done yet.

    Your avatar always makes me hungry! Time for a snack...

  3. #123

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Oh, wow! Genie Jeanie, you're a super fast sniffer! Great reviews as always! And I'm glad you're over your cold and your nose is in top form again! I'm sick now, but it's ok--- I can still smell and it is a great excuse to be on BN all day! lol!

    Eau de Charlotte is definitely a cuddly favorite of mine too! On my skin, the greens keep it cool and clean so it doesn't get too sweet though. In some ways, the greens remind me a tiny bit of Folavril, but without the tomato leaf.

    I'm glad to hear that Un Matin d'Orage didn't disappoint entirely after waiting out the gardenia, lol! That one also had a distinctly cool feel for me too-- possibly from something green again-- I haven't quite figured it out...

    Your description of Grand Amour makes me want to sniff from my decant again! I liked it enough to get a decant, but the last time I wore it, it had some musty element that was less than wonderful, and reminded me of cigarette breath. I hope it hasn't turned or something!

    Thank you for the great reviews!!!! Great job!!!

  4. #124

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Ya, Genie..don't ever see me liking gardenia. Ineke came kinda close..lol..I thought..hmm, maybe not too bad, so I put on a full wear, mistake. The gardenia really started to come out, during church, and totally distracted me for a bit. I wanted to scrub it off..that annoying note! I was like..oh, uh oh..the gardenia is really taking off! Make it stop! That Hothouse isn't too bad at first, actually kinda nice..I kinda dig a bit.. but that gardenia goes full bloom after a bit...and I go fully to the sink to wash! lol. But I tried. There are things I really like about Hothouse though. It's just when that gardenia really comes out...sorry, can't do it. I wanted to fully to like it...but in the end, nope!
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  5. #125
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Since the pass is still going around, I check in to see how everyone is enjoying the samples.

    It's gotten cold here, so Grand Amour will be sitting on my dressing table again....along with the original three Orientalists.
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  6. #126

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Goutal-o-rama must have a special signature base of greeness. My three favorites from Annick Goutal are all not so green as others:
    Un Matin d'Orage is fresh, light-hearted gardenia flower after a summer shower.
    Songes is sweat woody jasmine, lush and seductive
    Heure Exquise is misty iris emerged from a summer garden

  7. #127

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by j_mysscent View Post
    Goutal-o-rama must have a special signature base of greeness. My three favorites from Annick Goutal are all not so green as others:
    Un Matin d'Orage is fresh, light-hearted gardenia flower after a summer shower.
    Songes is sweat woody jasmine, lush and seductive
    Heure Exquise is misty iris emerged from a summer garden
    Hi j_mysscent! Nice to have you join us here. I agree that there are very distinctive notes carried throughout the Goutal collection.


    Sorry for the holdup here. Again! I got sidetracked for a few days, but hope to "get 'er done" today.
    Back later.....

    - - - Updated - - -

    It's been another fragrant day with Annick Goutal! I believe I've sampled all of the bottles so here's a summery of the last of the lot.

    EAU DE CAMILLE - Opens very bright & green. I’m not overly fond of green notes, but Camille is a very fresh & dewy green, with no harsh or astringent notes. The scent is joined by a floral bouquet that quickly turns into a very intense honeysuckle. It softens considerably in the drydown to a scent that smells like Springtime. While I prefer her sister Charlotte, Eau de Camille is quite nice.

    NEROLI - Very sweet floral opening here. It reminds me of the smell of the orange blossom honey you find everywhere here in Florida. And some sort of resin or evergreen. Maybe cedar or pine. Maybe holly. Scent is very linear. Stays the same from top notes to drydown. A good scent for layering.

    DES LYS - Fresh delicate lily. Green & white of the plant. As kalli noted, it almost seems a bit aquatic at the opening. There is also another note which is hard for me to pinpoint. Almost like a touch of suede. Very clean & natural!

    LA VIOLETTE - I’ve missed my little sample of La Violette & waited until I’d “earned” it to apply it once again. The opening just shouts purple. It exudes the beautiful aspects of a tight little violet bouquet right out of the garden, stems, leaves & all. A little touch of rose in the drydown creates a scent that is soft & feminine.This one ranks high on my list of wants!

    HEURE EXQUISE - Heure Exquise is a beautiful iris creation. As the scent develops it intertwines with rose & a slightly musky note. Sandalwood in the drydown balances the scent into an inviting, warm carress. Wishing for a little more heft, but beautiful none the less. Big thumbs up on this one!!

    SONGES - Songes opens as a big sweet bouquet of white flowers. The gardenia note speaks the loudest at the start, but is tempered by my preferred notes of ylang & jasmine as the scent progresses. It then becomes smoother & more subdued in the drydown, as a touch of amber & wood tame the intensity of the sweeness. For me, Songes has the greatest longevity of the florals. A tropical delight.

    Well, this has been quite a fun & educational journey!!! I don't think I've ever had the opportunity to experience so many scents from one house before & certainly not at the same time! The recurrent "theme" of Goutal becomes so apparent with this type of power-sampling. She has such a distinctive, unique signature embedded into her scents. It's unmistakable once you "get it." I've discovered some likes & a few must haves. To me, that's a very successful venture! I think there's something here for everyone.

    Huge thanks & hugs to cestrum nocturnum for organizing this marathon! And many thanks to all the wonderful BNers who have contributed along the way. I won't name names so that no one is left out, but this has become such a massive group endeavor! Samples have come from so many people, with some not even being active participants. I feel blessed to be a part of such a generous community.

    The samples will get sealed & wrapped up tomorrow for their journey to Cacio. Hope you're ready, my friend!!
    Last edited by Genie Jeanie; 16th November 2012 at 05:32 PM.

  8. #128

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Wonderful description ... I am in Italy until nov 26, and connecting very intermittently if at all. I forgot, if there is anybody after me, it is easier if he or she goes first (or if anybody wants to jump in).

    cacio

  9. #129

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Wonderful description ... I am in Italy until nov 26, and connecting very intermittently if at all. I forgot, if there is anybody after me, it is easier if he or she goes first (or if anybody wants to jump in).

    cacio
    Ciao, Cacio! What a wonderful trip!!

    I'm more than happy to send the scents on to PerfumedLady & she can pass them along to you. That will give you a bit of time to recuperate from your travels before testing.

    I hope the weather is good & that you're having a fabulous time. And I just have to ask... What scents did you choose to take on your vacation?

  10. #130

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Great reviews and descriptions Genie Jeanie!
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  11. #131

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by j_mysscent View Post
    Goutal-o-rama must have a special signature base of greeness. My three favorites from Annick Goutal are all not so green as others:
    Un Matin d'Orage is fresh, light-hearted gardenia flower after a summer shower.
    Songes is sweat woody jasmine, lush and seductive
    Heure Exquise is misty iris emerged from a summer garden
    j_mysscent Thank you for joining in and adding your observations! Heure Exquise (and the beloved doppelganger, No. 19) always reminds me of warm, sunny gardens too!

    Quote Originally Posted by Genie Jeanie View Post

    Well, this has been quite a fun & educational journey!!! I don't think I've ever had the opportunity to experience so many scents from one house before & certainly not at the same time! The recurrent "theme" of Goutal becomes so apparent with this type of power-sampling. She has such a distinctive, unique signature embedded into her scents. It's unmistakable once you "get it."

    I won't name names so that no one is left out, but this has become such a massive group endeavor! Samples have come from so many people, with some not even being active participants. I feel blessed to be a part of such a generous community.
    Genie Jeanie, thank you for more of your wonderful reviews and observations! You really described Camille perfectly!

    I am so pleased that the sample pass grew into a beautiful survey of so many scents through the generosity of so many! And I wholeheartedly agree; BN *is* a wonderful, amazing community! I think we need a giant group hug now. <3

  12. #132

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Group hug! Yay!

    I saw we agree again, Genie Jeanie! I thought that Heure Exquise and La Violette are the best of Goutals, but they are very, very similar to Chanel 19 and Iris de Nuit, respectively.

  13. #133

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Just a quick one to let you all know I now have the Goutal-o-rama! Made it here yesterday, right before the holiday, thanks to Genie Jeanie's speediness. If only UPS were this sharp, I wouldn't have to wait until next week for that new HdP!

    Lovely presentation, cn, you really made these look inviting! Can't wait to dig in! Your lavender smells so beautiful and so different from mine (probably different varieties, mine is English); we must have a chat about our plants someday!

    Plan to start these over the weekend- back soon!

    - - - Updated - - -

    O.k., I finally made enough of a dent in these to start posting! Before this pass, I had only tried a handful of Goutals, most of them roses. I didn't find a scent I loved enough to own but I really liked most of them. My previous sampling indicated to me this house could be a great fit for me style-wise and it's starting to appear that I do indeed love that Goutal aesthetic!

    Eau de Camille- These sister scents are both very pretty. Camille is my favorite of the two; no surprise as I love my greens and this actually lists grass as a note. It is very grassy but not sharply so. It isn't piercing like galbanum nor does it become damp or swampy like moss. Not pungent as in herbal greens. Truly just grassy and fresh but that's not to say it's boring. The lilac and honeysuckle interplay is quite interesting to me; the honeysuckle works to tame lilac, which can be sharply soapy. May try this again in spring, could be a nice alternative to the usual citrus-galbanum-hyacinth heavy greens I like to wear then.

    Eau de Charlotte- while I like Camille better, this one is no slouch! Feels very modern to me in spite of its early 80's creation. Rather like the traditional floral aldehydes stripped down to their balsamic floral hearts. Sparkly pretty powder! Too sweet for me but enjoyed it nonetheless.

    La Violette- the less said about violet soliflores and me, the better. I think violet is a beautiful note but I prefer mine with some edge. This note in soliflore just leaves me wanting. But I have to say, I like this one better than most I've tried. The violet note strikes that perfect balance between candied and green to my nose, much like that of The Queen of Edgy Violets, Jolie Madame.

    Rose Absolue- had tried this one before and my appreciation only grew with a second sampling. After all that rambling about no violet soliflores, I do LOVE rose soliflores when done right. This bouquet has every type of rose and nothing else. It's up to the quality of the rose materials to perform their magic on skin and here, it works. Soft and petal-y all the way through and so, so beautiful.

    Sables- tried this previously, too- and from cacio's bottle! So, my dear, I got the pleasure of spending a bit more time with your lovely scent. This is solidly masculine to my nose and IMO, one of the best out there. Immortelle is not heavy or syrupy to me here, just sweetly autumnal. Strong, unique, very manly-yet very snuggly and cozy. All masculines should be composed and executed with the quality and care shown here.

    Mandragore- sigh, swoon, faint! Found a love here already, thanks a lot, cn. An iris scent masquerading as a happy, fresh, citrus. For all the talk of mint, it wasn't very prominent on this skin but the spices (anise, ginger and black pepper) were. I never really seemed to click with pepper as a perfume note when this spice was having its 15 minutes but that's because I hadn't tried Mandragore. Love how it's done so airily here, lightly spicy but does not sacrifice presence for the sheerness. Perfectly blended and only grows more addictive with time on skin. All the elements here are given the same weight and heft, which makes it all so seamless. Even the labdanum and heavier base notes are treated with such a delicate hand, this never veers into true oriental territory. I know our Matildaben loves this and I believe she recently got Quarry hooked. I see why. Will need at least a decant of this. I am always beyond happy when I find an interesting take on my love, the iris!

    Now, back to work on the Goutal-o-rama sampling! See you all again soon!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Le Muguet- I can do lily of the valley as part of a bouquet in perfume but never have gotten along with large doses of it. Too sharp, too sweet, too head-splitting. This type of scent is the equivalent of a jackhammer to the brain for me. The only one I've come close to being able to wear is Penhaligon's Lily of the Valley, with it's hefty dose of green. Even that one is a scent I have no plans of meeting again. That said, Le Muguet is probably among the more natural smelling lov scents available, given all the restrictions on the needed materials. A very challenging scent category for me and this sample did not change that.

    Ce Soir ou Jamais- this is called an "Eternity wannabe" in The Guide and having worn Eternity back in the day, I must say I have no idea where that's coming from. Not an inkling of Eternity here. But I do love the book very much and appreciate the hours of good-natured arguing I've had with LT & TS in my head! Tried this previously, even went through a fairly large decant, nearly bought it. In the end, that pear note is just too synthetically sticky feeling to me. This is like a photo album (of smell), tracking the growing rose through all its stages. Starts off clear, bright and fresh and progresses through rich, jammy and wine-like right on up to dried potpourri. Do still love this one, in spite of that pear.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 27th November 2012 at 10:57 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  14. #134

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Well, I sucked it up and started on the Big White Florals.

    Gardenia Passion- well, the slightly mentholated tuberose note is nice but Ms. Goutal failed in hiding that gardenia altogether. This nose prefers to stay far away from gardenia! Just very obnoxious and unpleasant to my nose. Would change seats if I were stuck sitting next to this one.

    Songes- now jasmine and I get along fine! This is pretty, if not earth-shattering. Nice clean jasmine, just how I like it, along with ylang and I think a tiny smattering of that minty tuberose. Not compelled to spend more time with this but very glad I finally tried it.

    Des Lys- I keep trying lily scents even though I don't seem to like wearing them because I grow lilies and do love the scent of the actual flower. Des Lys does not come close to realism. For realistic lilies, one could do better with Penhaligon's Lily & Spice, Ava Luxe Madonna Lily, or Malle's Lys Mediterranee.

    Neroli- this one tricked me! When I think neroli, I think screechy orange blossom, which is second only to gardenia on my list of disliked notes. Not here, though- Neroli stays smooth, clear, citrusy and happy. The only neroli scent I've tried that I'd be happy to meet again! This never plays that nasty joke on me that most nerolis do- turning from bright and lovely to hissing, snarling and smothering. No, this Neroli is very friendly on this skin! Very nice surprise! No big white floral notes here at all.

    EDIT: No idea how I did it but the thread finally bumped to the top! For those following along, I have another novella length post right above this one.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 28th November 2012 at 05:03 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  15. #135

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Hey PL, there you are!! I had the same problem getting my reviews to update the thread, as they sank into the abyss at the bottom of the page. I should have checked in on you!!

    Great reviews! I'm reading over them saying to myself, "that's what I was trying to say," but you are much more articulate with your descriptions than I am. Very fun read!

    " This nose prefers to stay far away from gardenia! Just very obnoxious and unpleasant to my nose. Would change seats if I were stuck sitting next to this one".

    ROFL!! I've never tried to hide my relationship with this one. Gardenia smells wonderful on *some* people, but I'm not one of them either. But I did enjoy the Neroli too. I hope you like citrus. There are some very nice ones coming up for you!

  16. #136

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    That's o.k. Genie Jeanie! It just happens sometimes. Don't know why we can't just start a new post after our last one, we used to be able to.

    Please do not sell yourself short! Believe me, I've noticed how these sample passes have been refining your nose- and so quickly! Your write-up of Gardenia Passion is actually my favorite kind: short, to the point, informative and hilarious! I'd be much happier if I could fit my thoughts into a few sentences like you, cacio and some of the others I've done passes with. And our Twolf is a master at making her point with only a few words! I'm afraid I'm too naturally wordy to ever reach that goal but I try. You are very articulate, Genie, and a real asset to these passes.

    Yes, I do like citrus! I'm excited to try Eau d'Hadrien- but first, I must steel myself for Un Matin d'Orage! And I'm still cracking up about Annick Goutal being urged to create a gardenia scent because American women liked the scent so much (as per The Guide)! Of course, some must love it; just hard to prove by this group!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 28th November 2012 at 09:26 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  17. #137

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Oh, I am sooooooooo late to PerfumedLady's sniffing turn . I am so sorry!

    It was so interesting to read your impressions! There is IRIS in Mandragore? I need to try it again! I thought it smelled rather sophisticated for a mojito . Agree about Neroli, it's a good one for neroli fans, to me the opening smelled exactly like essential oil I add to my facial creams and lotions. I do like it, but per my skincare routine I associate it with my creams and lotions. I haven't smelled real lilies, thank you for clarifying that Des Lys doesn't come close - I did like Lys Mediterrannee. Un Matin D'Orage is not most offensive gardenia I have ever smelled, I thought it was romantic and not as obnoxious as some. But I am really curious to see what you will think about Nuit's d'Hadrien - I also have a feeling that you might like Eau de Sud with it's classy chypre vibe.

    I do hope you will feel better soon. Sending you healing vibes and chicken noodle soup!

    Genie Jeanie, I absolutely agree with PerfumedLady - Don't sell yourself short! I still chuckle by myself like a crazy woman when I remember your drunken gardenia review.

  18. #138

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Oh, PerfumedLady, you have written such wonderful reviews! I'm sorry I've been MIA. I'm so pleased that Camille was enjoyable! I agree, it is a lovely scent that just sings of springtime, doesn't it? Ce Soir-- what a perfect description-- it does capture the life cycle of a rose. My mom actually complimented me on it once! (And she is really *not* into perfumes, lol!) Oh, and sorry about the big white flowers! I think my skin mutes them; it has been so informative to read about all of the varying (and mostly negative! eek!) impressions!

    Genie Jeanie , I must concur, your reviews are wonderful! Don't be shy! And, I too, wish that I could be less verbose and write clever, short and witty reviews! I'm so happy that you joined the pass!

  19. #139

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Lol, we will just have to content ourselves with being some of the chattier samplers, cn! I think you and I are alike in that writing about scents is what really unlocks our thoughts on them. Emily Dickinson said something along the lines of "how can I know what I think until I see what I've written?" Sound familiar? Sure does to me! Thank goodness, we have room for all types of writers here! Anyway, I know your posts must be very helpful to many, many people. Your nose does not miss a note!

    And no apologies necessary! I know your plate is full and really, I'm only about halfway through these. I am able to smell again-YAY!-and will update later this evening with some more thoughts. Had been looking forward to Grand Amour and now that I'm in it, can't get past the "ooh, ahh, pretty!" just yet!

    No apologies allowed for the white florals, either! Right now, the only gardenia I can love is Mimi. But after that tuberose fiasco, you better believe I'll be keeping my mind open about other challenging notes!

    Thanks for the well wishes, Whitefluffy! I hope I have you talked into trying Mandragore again! May just be the one citrus with enough depth and mystery for you!

    - - - Updated - - -

    O.k., after the minor setback of sniffles, I'm back on the Goutal-go-round!

    Un Matin d'Orage- now this is getting closer to a gardenia I could do! Very sharply green, almost poisonously bitter opening, which I love. The bracing quality of the green notes keep the gardenia from becoming too heady, lush and sweet for me. Really true to life tropical florals here. Can almost feel the humidity of the greenhouse when sniffing this yet it never becomes sticky or cloying. That pure, clean Goutal jasmine adds just the right touch of floral sweetness. My only beef here would be this scent is a bit linear once the fascinating greens tire out and the drydown a little lackluster. Maybe wouldn't buy this one but wouldn't turn it away if a sample or decant makes its way toward me again. Consider this gardenia hater impressed!

    Passion- Oooh, another tuberose I love! What is happening to me? This really is structurally a classic white floral chypre but it doesn't wear anything like the overly heady members of this bunch (like say, 24 Faubourg). Again the florals are clean, non-animalic; no terribly challenging white flowers here, even if the notes sound scary. Beautiful soft, mossy patchouli drydown. A very smooth, airy, well-behaved scent that just smells gorgeous. Would like a nice fat decant of this one.

    Le Mimosa- starts off very naturally floral, impressively so- but it took me right back to RHM's giant peach as it developed. I do love peachy florals but don't want my peach too syrupy or sticky. This one, combined with that musk drydown, takes the sugar over the top for me. Not my kind of scent but as with most Goutals so far, wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to someone more suited to it. It is a very well done polite floral.

    Heure Exquise- This is the last one from the group with which I am already acquainted. And I love it! I'm happy whenever HE and I cross paths so you all know I had a dab! This is probably the most powdery green I know. The iris here is fluffy and comfy; relaxing instead of moody or earthy. I'm a green lover and this one stands apart from all the others I love enough that it may just find a home with me one of these days. This is the olfactory equivalent of my giant goose down comforter with its pale green duvet cover. And every bit as peaceful and calming. When I first tried it, I thought it must be one of Goutal's best but had not tried enough to know that for sure. Now, I'm finding it certainly does come out at the top for me. Every once in a while, we get threads posted about favorite or best green scents; this one always belongs on that list.

    Vanille Exquise- I'm hard on vanillas, I'm spoiled by Shalimar's otherwordly vanilla. That is what I reach for when I want vanilla. But this one impresses me. It's a sweeter, boozier vanilla than I like but it does capture something of Shalimar's strange, burnt and smoky vibe. Being without Shalimar's sometimes harsh bergamot, I can see VE being quite a crowd pleaser. Very pleasant but I'll stick with the old Grand Dame.

    Grand Amour- like this one a lot, too! Where Heure Exquise falls into the Chanel No.19 style of greens, this one belongs in the Cristalle family. This is one to try if you love Cristalle's hyacinths but can't do its mossy, ashy notes. This is just crisp florals and a faint touch of suede. Can pick out some high quality rose and a honeysuckle note that is true to nature, delicately sweet. The essence of spring. Very, very nicely done. Which brings me to a very bold request- we have two almost full vials of this one still; does anyone mind me keeping the opened one for a bit more investigation? We only have cacio left behind me; this would leave him a full, unopened vial. Wouldn't even think of asking otherwise but this one is very much my style!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 4th December 2012 at 04:31 AM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  20. #140

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Glad you're feeling better, PerfumedLady! Sounds like you're a power sniffer like me. I think I would have gone into next year if I'd tested them out one at a time. Glad you found some love for a few of the white flowers. Passion is the only scent containing that *t word* that I can tolerate! I'm more than happy to help Santa out with your list & will send you a decant.

    And hey, I like reading the *chattier samplers* reviews!! You guys are the bomb!

  21. #141

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Genie, thank you for your sweet and generous offer! I'll take you up on it but I insist on putting a package of goodies together for you right after Christmas. You've mailed so many sample passes to me, it's about time you get a little reward! Passion is beautiful, nothing frightening about that *t word* in there at all! Yes, I do like to power sniff when I can! It really comes in handy if it's your style of sampling, for instance when I got the sniffles. At least I knew I could rest a few days without falling behind. And other people need more time which is great, too. Different types of samplers only complement one another. Same with posting our impressions-it's all these unique individuals who make these passes so helpful and interesting. Doesn't matter if you prefer to say a little or a lot. You're all the bomb!

    It's been all citrus-y and energetic today here- sampled Eau d'Hadrien and Les Nuits d'Hadrien. Eau d'Hadrien is my favorite of the two, those lemons & garpefruits stay fresh and biting on this skin a long time. The addition of ylang makes this interesting to me; I've only ever encountered it in a traditional EDC style scent as part of a bouquet, usually along with orange blossom/neroli. Here it's one of the star players and the only floral I detect. All tart lemons and smooth ylang on me until the soft, woody drydown. A standout citrus, so glad I finally tried it. It feels a bit too masculine for me but I'd encourage any other citrus lover to give it a go, regardless of gender. Specifically it's the sharp handling of the basil note that makes this lean masculine to my nose. This is among my favorite citruses I know of now, even if not for my own skin. Les Nuits surprised me by being even more masculine in style and while it's nicely done, I don't care for it as much as Eau. Les Nuits is more powdery orange where Eau's citruses are more acidic and I just prefer the latter. I get hints of neroli but not much else floral. Toward the drydown, it does start to lose some of the masculine edge and starts to lean more woody floriental. A great citrus, just too manly for me and not my preferred citrus notes. Would be thrilled if the Mr. wanted to wear these but of course, he is not a citrus kind of guy.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  22. #142

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    I am so glad you that you liked Eau d'Hadrien! And I am so getting it! (In my previous post I meant Eau d'Hadrien, not Nuits d'Hadrien, I am officially losing my mind ) You know how I don't like colognes and anything citrus-y at all, but Annick should have a statue in her honor for convincing me otherwise. I was dead set not to care for it, and now I am in love! Aren't these passes great? We all get our worlds turned upside down when we least expect it. As for Un Matin d'Orage I knew you won't completely hate it, because I almost liked it too. There is another reason Annick deserves a statue, for creating gardenia that we both consider(!) in our wardrobes.

  23. #143

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Well, now, that will really add something different to your collection, Whitefluffy! What a wonderful choice! Yes, I think maybe Annick deserves an award for being one of the most surprising houses, as well as the statues. I expected to like the citruses and delicate, airy florals but I was not prepared for how Manly ( with a capital M!) this house can be. Such a pleasant surprise and I hope lots of men will check AG out. Was also very, very surprised to find another tuberose to love here-and a gardenia I don't hate! We are so lucky to be able to explore this house in such an intensive, in depth manner. Sounds like most of us have found something to help us lighten our wallets!

    I have just four left to go! Am taking a break today and for sync Friday but I will be mailing to cacio early next week! Can't wait to see if he finds any surprises here!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  24. #144

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    PerfumedLady, thank you for the excellent reviews as always! I'm so pleased that this pass has grown so much that there is practically something for everyone! lol! I really appreciated your description of the variations in the two Hadriens; that exactly captures how they smell to me too! Nuits d’Hadrien *is* more masculine to my nose… but I do like basil quite a bit, so that doesn’t stop me!

    Lol, I will try to think of my writing style as “chatty” as opposed to longwinded or rambling—that sounds so much nicer! If I didn’t struggle to really “understand” fragrances, I would probably blather less. I hope it gets easier as I gain experience.

    Oh, and you have my vote regarding the extra vial of Grand Amour-- I think it has your name on it!!!!

  25. #145

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Thank you, cn! I mailed the box to cacio this morning and I did keep the partial vial of Grand Amour! I hope no one else minds! cacio, I'm sorry, I didn't get a chance to check with you about any samples I could tuck in as extras, which I always like to do in sample passes. Please check my wardrobe after the holidays and see if I can send you a goody package!

    This has been so much fun and educational for me! Besides the ones I already mentioned, I had only tried Quel Amour and Rose Splendide, so I guess there were only 6 I knew from this house. Now I know so many more and I do like the Goutal style very much. My favorite new discoveries were Mandragore and Passion, loved them both and will track down more of them. Thank you so much cn, I had been wanting an in depth Goutal exploration for a long time! Even better that I got to do it with friends! Everything about this pass is so thoughtful and lovely; you really did a fantastic job putting this together. I appreciate your efforts so very much!

    Last 4 and I thankfully did not find any more loves!:

    Eau de Sud- at first I thought I had found a love here. I love the fresh and juicy grapefruit and bergamot opening with the moss lurking beneath. Seemed all set to be right up my alley. Citruses have always been friendly to this skin so I was surprised to find the grapefruit souring as the scent progressed. I've heard of grapefruit being compared to b.o. and never had a clue what those folks were talking about until now. Yep, sort of a briny funk. As the oakmoss became more prominent toward the drydown, this combo of citrusy, salty body odor with the damp darkness of the moss took on an attract/repel quality for me. Interesting but not something I can wear.

    Le Chevrefeuille- beautiful honeysuckle scent, lightly sweet and green. Pretty and springy in a straightforward, simple way. Not much to say on this though I'd gladly wear it. Sometimes one needs inoffensive, lovely and elegant things and this is well done enough to keep me interested. Not every scent need be a thinker.

    Duel- oh, my, another gorgeous masculine! I could almost do this one myself and I bet lots of women do. Very leathery, I was surprised as I expected the Goutal take on leather to be faint and airy. It is not, it is most definitely present and hefty. Leather and iris make a perfect pair if you ask me and this scent is one more reason why. Again a simple idea well executed and again, an extremely elegant result.

    Folavril- expected to love this one but I don't. Don't hate it, just was a bit bored with it. The tomato leaf, while pleasant at first, does wear out its welcome with me. This is not a bad scent by any means but there are many other delicate green florals from this house I'd rather wear.

    I was so surprised that I found so many scents here I'd love to sniff on a man! Plenty here worthwhile for the guys to explore. For myself, I think I like the Goutal florals most overall but there were some fantastic citruses here, too. I think there must be something here for just about everyone, I really am so impressed by this house's work. Thanks again, cn! I've had a blast!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  26. #146

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Thanks, looking forward!
    cacio

  27. #147

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Just got the packet. What a bounty! Thank-you so much! (and the nice sachet too).

    Just put on two random ones:
    Violette: a very good one, this one seems to veer off towards the sweet flower. Chowards mints. If I remember well, compared to the penhaligon, this is sweeter. Somebody mentioned Jolie Madame before, and of course, JM's underlying bitter, s&m leather is on a different planet.
    Eau de Charlotte: sparkly sweet, balanced by some green vegetal note. Not a big fan of sweets here, but in the genre, this is a standout. Regrettably, I'm afraid this is probably not sweet and slutty enough for current trashy teens, who are rather enticed by pink cupcakes.

    cacio
    Last edited by cacio; 20th December 2012 at 03:38 PM.

  28. #148

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    That was me with the Jolie Madame reference! But I was only comparing the sweetness of the violets, not the compositions. Probably goes without saying that I'd rather wear the far more interesting JM!

    Not surprised our thoughts on Charlotte were similar; too sweet for me, too. I'm curious to see if you'll like the drier Camille better. Actually, I'm interested in your thoughts on all the greenies in that box, cacio!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  29. #149

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Looking forward to the greenies - I tend to like green.
    EdCharlotte turned a little bit less sweet as it went, and the green soap was more evident. Still - I prefer my greens sharper.

    Wearing Mandragore now. Pleasant, slightly aromatic, slightly sweet, no poison (the mandrake plant, incidentally, doesn't smell like anything. It's the root that can be poisonous). Should be used instead of some masculine sweet gourmands. But not a genre I tend to gravitate towards.
    Also have little paperstrips in my pocket with Muguet and Folavril. Muguet is nice and clean, and among the set of current muguets, one of the least functional smelling. But alas, this keeps verifying Luca Turin's dictum that it is now impossible to do a great muguet. And vintage Diorissimo is miles away. Folavril is also a nice pleasant floral, slightly green and clean. Nice, but it doesn't really move me.
    I am also wearing a dab of Eau de Camille (I believe) on my wrist. Nice very sharp green top. Now a more sedate greenish soap. More of an eau than a real perfume.

    cacio

    - - - Updated - - -

    A few more tried:

    Lys: I like lilies, but this one is rather clean, fully a white floral without ham or salami. Nice, but I wish it had a little more depth.
    Mimosa: in the sense of cocktail more than flower. A touch too sweet, but extremely light. My skin, which eats perfumes, devoured this in about 10 minutes.
    Eau d'Hadrien: lemony, citrusy, but veering towards kitchen functional. Likely, reformulation is to blame.
    Nuits d'hadrien: citrusy but with something fresh and green. I liked this one better than the EdH. A very good freshener.
    Vanille exquise: sharp vanilla, perhaps better than the Guerlain SDV, but still not particularly good.
    Passion: very interesting tropical floral, with both a fresh note, and a creamy lactonic one. This when smelled up close. From a distance, and through the clothes, a strange note prevails - and I must be hypersensitive to it. It's thick, creamy, but claustrophobic, almost makes me gasp for air. Somehow, I vaguely associate it with some functional bath product of when I was a child. Perhaps some hair spray? Or something like that. And it's a note I sometimes smell in other perfumes. Given my dislike, this very much destroys the frag for me.
    Gardenia Passion: as others have said, more like a polite tuberose.
    Rose absolue: good rose soliflore.

    cacio

  30. #150

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Cacio, you’ve been a busy bee! Thank you for sharing your impressions. I hope none of the others prove as awful for you as Passion! That sounds remarkably dreadful—particularly the claustrophobic part! Eek. Loved your hilarious descriptions of Charlotte and Mimose! Thanks for the chuckle! I have to run and finish wrapping gifts and baking, but I look forward to reading more of your wonderful reviews!

  31. #151
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Not every scent need be a thinker.
    Touché!

    Enjoying this thread very much.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  32. #152

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Merry Christmas!

    Waiting to go to a Christmas dinner (where I think I'll be wearing Nuit de Noel, just for the sake of it), I put on two more Goutals.

    Chevrefeuille: citrusy and mixed herbs of the parsley family, a touch too sweet as it goes. Not bad, but not a fan, too close to both functional and foodie.

    Grand Amour: big radiant floral. Nice sharp green up top, then hyacinth, which I like a lot. But then there's some hazy, round note (lactonic? who knows) that reminds one too much of florists, and not necessarily in a good way. I looked at Sanchez's review, she mentions Chamade, I didn't really get much of it - this smells more modern and full. She also mentions silvey sheen, which I agree with.

    cacio

    - - - Updated - - -

    After a long pause, a few more scents:

    Heure Exquise: perhaps my favorite feminine in the line. Green chypre-ish, but somewhat warm. Comparisons to No 19 have been made, but this one is more relaxed. Great.

    Ce Soir ou jamais: watery floral with fruits. Not great.

    Eau du Sud: pleasant, refreshing green cologne. A good member of an eau de cologne rotation. I prefer it to the (current formulation of) Eau d'Hadrien.

    Duel: nicely anisic, slightly bitter-woody. Very pleasant, though not very strong on me. A good, relaxed masculine nonetheless.

    Songes: beautiful rich jasmine.

    Sables: this one I didn't try because I own it. My favorite in the line. Beautiful immortelle: rich, long lasting, smooth, pleasant. Smoother than other more striking or angular renditions of the material, and likely the one to try for those who don't really like the material.

    Matin d'orage: it took me a couple of wearing to pay attention to this, somehow it just seemed to get lost ... Greenish scent seems to turn a little bit soapy as it goes. So so. TS laments an unbearable woody amber - uncharacteristically (since I also tend to strongly dislike woody ambers), but I must be hyposmic to this one, which also would explain why I find it soapy and not, presumably, woody. Curious that in the similarly named Bois d'orage by Malle, instead, I do perceive the strong woody amber.

    I think that's about it - unless I forgot some of the scents (so many of them!). Thanks again to the organizer and to those who have donated samples. Overall, I found the Goutal line very enjoyable. Typically well done scents, pleasant, floral, vastly preferable to the sharp white floral scents prevalent now. Still, this is not a genre I tend to gravitate towards, I like florals, but prefer more substantial ones. The only one I own is the least typical of the group, Sables, and probably the only one, right now, I see myself owning is Vetiver (not in the series). Heure exquise is also very good, though somehow it doesn't feel essential if one already has other green chypres.

    cacio

  33. #153

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Cacio, thank you for your wonderful reviews! You really have a way of capturing the essence of scents.

    As you and others have mentioned, the Goutal line seems like a collection that is easily enjoyed by many. They are often my go-to scents when I want something that is inoffensive but pleasant.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Cacio, thank you for your wonderful reviews! You really have a way of capturing the essence of scents.

    As you and others have mentioned, the Goutal line seems like a collection that is easily enjoyed by many. They are often my go-to scents when I want something that is inoffensive but pleasant.

  34. #154

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Wow,Cacio, you had quite a busy holiday with the Goutals! Way to power sniff & thanks for the wonderful reviews! You have me curious about the Vetiver perfume. I love the scent of a smooth vetiver, but it seems to be a note mostly found in very masculine scents. Any suggestions for me?

    Heure Exquise seems to be high on the list of favorite florals with the group. It was the most enjoyable for me, along with Songes. I wish I'd found Un Matin D'Orage to be a woody amber, as I've grown to love those scents. What I got was not so nice.

    This pass was tons of fun CN!! Thank you once again for organizing this for us.

  35. #155

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Yes, interesting impressions, Cacio; although for some reason I thought you might like Eau du Sud. Heure Exquise is understandable given your likes for Chanel 19 and greens, but I think it leans more feminine then Chanel 19.

    And I just wanted to add a comment that I didn't emerged from this pass completely unscathed: my wallet had to cough up for Heure Exquise dry body oil and Eau d'Hadrien EdT. However, I am not regretting it at the very least .

  36. #156

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Just back from a trip to SD, so I couldn't answer before.

    Indeed, I like Eau du Sud a lot, a good refreshing cologne. I still prefer the Chanel, but this one could be a worthy addition.

    I like my vetivers dry and stark, and the Goutal is one of them. My favorites are Vetiver Extraordinaire and Sycomore. Not sure what to suggest for a smooth one. Diptyque vetiveryo is - but it is somewhat fruity. Fat electrician is rather sweet to my nose (but not to me). And Hermes Vetiver Tonka is unplesantly sweet.

    cacio

  37. #157

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    I am so pleased that despite the varied personal tastes, preferences (and some intense dislikes!) quite a few folks were able to find something enjoyable in the Goutal round up. Of course, this probability increased with the amazing growth in the sample set, thanks to all of the generous contributors! The Goutals are really no-brainer scents in my collection, and I mean that in the best possible way. For me, they are just pleasant and never “challenging,” as some might say of certain fragrances. And I’ve never had anyone force a fake cough and glare at me when I wear any of these light and lovely scents! LOL!

    Cacio has informed me that there is a generous amount left in the vials, and enough to accommodate several additional sniffers. I PM’d Fleurine, as she had to drop out earlier due to her schedule, but I have not heard back from her. There is one other interested party, SaNielsen. Anyone else interested in having a sniff? It seems like there is still space for at least one or two more.

  38. #158

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Will send on to Sanielsen.

    meanwhile, I just wanted to remind that Twolf started a Romea d'Ameor pass the sample. The style of the house isn't miles away from that of Goutal, so those who enjoyed this pts might find that interesting as well. There are probably still open slots:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/310...ass-the-sample

    cacio

  39. #159

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Got the samples today. WOW! The package is like a fragrant horn of plenty. I'm not smart about notes, but I can give little impressions. So far I've tried two:

    Sables: like a dry, non-skanky Shocking de Schiaparelli
    Duel: oooh, I like this. It's as if 4711 grew a pair. Mr. Darcy would wear this.

    There is plenty of everything here. I would be glad to pass along the bounty and continue the pass when I'm done. Lisa

  40. #160

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by SaNielsen View Post
    Got the samples today. WOW! The package is like a fragrant horn of plenty. I'm not smart about notes, but I can give little impressions. So far I've tried two:

    Sables: like a dry, non-skanky Shocking de Schiaparelli
    Duel: oooh, I like this. It's as if 4711 grew a pair. Mr. Darcy would wear this.

    There is plenty of everything here. I would be glad to pass along the bounty and continue the pass when I'm done. Lisa
    Hi Lisa, WELCOME to the pass! It's great to see we still have some testers here!

    Short impressions are just fine & the way a lot of us start out learning notes. After participating in a several passes I can now recognize quite a few. Many other notes still escape me, but I'm still a work in progress, & that's just part of the fun of discovery.

    Take your time & enjoy all the scents. There are some good ones in there for sure!

  41. #161

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Interesting, Shocking is one of my favorite perfumes, but I had never compared the two. Shocking to me is honeyed animalics - it doesn't feel like immortelle to me (that is, slightly caramelized and curried). But they are both dark and sweetish, and immortelle is clearly drier, and Sables has fewer animalics, just some smooth amber. And none of the sticky, dirty feel of the more daring Schiaparelli.

    cacio

  42. #162

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Take my comparisons with a grain of salt, as I am a noob. I was comparing Sables to a Shocking EDC decant that is much drier than the lovely, beastly Shocking I tried from one of those antique perfume nips. (by the way, if anyone wants to try some nips, I have a variety that are labelled -- vintage fun).
    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting, Shocking is one of my favorite perfumes, but I had never compared the two. Shocking to me is honeyed animalics - it doesn't feel like immortelle to me (that is, slightly caramelized and curried). But they are both dark and sweetish, and immortelle is clearly drier, and Sables has fewer animalics, just some smooth amber. And none of the sticky, dirty feel of the more daring Schiaparelli.

    cacio
    Today I put on Neroli. I was a little afraid, actually! My only experience with orange blossom fragrance was the terrible tourist-trap perfume my dad brought back from a Florida trip when I was twelve. The Goutal neroli is just lovely, so bright and fresh and seems to be grinning! An excellent choice for northern Maine today. To put our weather in perspective, the projected high and low temperatures for this coming Wednesday are minus 3 and minus 30, respectively. Lisa

  43. #163
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Is there still enough room for a novice sniffer? This would be a great learning experience for me and I would be happy to join in!
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  44. #164

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Quote Originally Posted by SaNielsen View Post
    Take my comparisons with a grain of salt, as I am a noob. I was comparing Sables to a Shocking EDC decant that is much drier than the lovely, beastly Shocking I tried from one of those antique perfume nips. (by the way, if anyone wants to try some nips, I have a variety that are labelled -- vintage fun).

    Today I put on Neroli. I was a little afraid, actually! My only experience with orange blossom fragrance was the terrible tourist-trap perfume my dad brought back from a Florida trip when I was twelve. The Goutal neroli is just lovely, so bright and fresh and seems to be grinning! An excellent choice for northern Maine today. To put our weather in perspective, the projected high and low temperatures for this coming Wednesday are minus 3 and minus 30, respectively. Lisa
    Hi Lisa! It's so nice to have you join the sample pass! Thank you for posting your impressions, and please don't discount your comparisons and observations-- they are both interesting and refreshing! Take your time, and enjoy!

    Quote Originally Posted by southerngardens View Post
    Is there still enough room for a novice sniffer? This would be a great learning experience for me and I would be happy to join in!
    Yes, indeed there is room for you! Thank you for your interest!

  45. #165
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    Thank you CN for allowing me to join in! I am not a note impressionist yet,but I have my own way of writing my impression of a fragrance.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  46. #166

    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    OK, will likely get the samples in the mail to southerngardens on Saturday. My favorites were Duel, Neroli and Mimosa. This sample pass was a great education in flower notes.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I found the baggie containing Duel and Mandragore samples between the sofa cushions...oops...will send it along to southerngardens to complete the pass set. Lisa

  47. #167
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    southerngardens
    Last edited by southerngardens; 31st January 2013 at 03:24 PM.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  48. #168
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    The Goutal's came in today! However, I'm still working on the 15 sample pass that came in earlier this week! I will get them all done as soon as possible!

    southerngardens
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  49. #169
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    Default Re: Goutal-o-rama

    The Goutal's came in today! However, I'm still working on the 15 sample pass that came in earlier this week! I will get them all done as soon as possible!

    southerngardens

    - - - Updated - - -

    I am about to start the Goutal pass, but wanted to let everyone know that there is room for another sampler.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Hello Everyone! These are my reviews of the Goutals. Hope you enjoy reading them because I had a good time sampling all of them and I learned a lot!

    Songes - Songes wears well as a casual or daytime scent.The scent itself is quite bright and sugary. Imagine a bouquet of fresh jasmine and frangipani blooms sprinkled with icing sugar and you have Songes.
    This fragrance actually makes me think of a wedding. Not a particular wedding, just an image of a romantic celebration, and Songes could very well be a beautiful and fitting fragrance for such a day. This fragrance has great lasting power, so those people that assume that Annick Goutal fragrances don't last, you should think again. I knew even before testing this fragrance, that Songes would be undeniably hard to resist. If you love white florals or sweet scents, I highly recommend Songes.

    Passion
    - The first initial spray is indeed rather heady and strong, but the scent itself is unlike anything else. The warm vanilla, jasmine and tuberose blend is to die for. The scent reminds me of old fashioned stores filled with lace, rose scented oils and antiques. Passion is such a comforting scent with a slight incense touch in the base notes which settles beautifully on the skin.
    Because this fragrance is niche you won't find many women wearing this, hence the reason why I love this fragrance so dearly. The lasting power is fantastic and the warmth in the drydown is unlike anything I've ever tried before. This is a must for lovers of floral scents, or women searching for something expensive smelling yet unique and sophisticated.

    Neroli
    -
    The orange note is certainly obvious in this fragrance. It's not overly citrusy, more pulpy and juicy with a dash of herbs. It does have a masculine quality to it, however I wouldn't go so far to say that it's unpleasant. The scent tends to be very light and airy at times with a touch of greeness and a likable bitterness. Unfortunately the lasting power is extremely poor, I could barely smell it after an hour on my skin.
    Neroli evokes a strong sense of Summer in my mind. Lots of sunshine, cool drinks and warm breezes. It's pretty, but like I said, disappointing in the longevity department. I wanted to see how it would develop further. Vanilla does play a part in this fragrance's drydown, giving Neroli a somewhat sweet aspect that still manages to smell very natural. What I do admire about this fragrance is its ability to smell like a blossom picked fresh from a garden. This is an all-natural interpretation of a beautiful orange blossom.

    La Mimosa
    - The scent of mimosa is something I'm very familiar with. I grew up on a property where this stuff bloomed everywhere. I played under it as a child and delighted in snapping off branches of the stuff, yet as I got older, it gave me dreadful hay fever. Le Mimosa is close to the scent of my childhood, but unfortunately it has been overshadowed with syrupy peach and sugary musk. I see this fragrance as being a delightful, bright little Spring scent, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't expect more from this release.

    At times this fragrance is a little powdery and honeyed. To me it doesn't smell like mimosa, instead it smells like the inside of a beehive or another flower altogether. It's pleasant and unique so to say; very sunny, bright and yellow just like mimosa blooms itself, but still to my nose, this is not mimosa. In all honesty it's mostly peach, powder and a dash of icing sugar. It's unfortunately quite linear and predictable after a while, which leaves me a little lost as to how to describe it. It's a fragrance that's trying to follow in the footsteps of the sugary and pretty Songes, but somehow it fails to live up to its proud predecessor.
    The drydown is quite musty. Le Mimosa was unfortunately poor in terms of longevity and sillage.

    Eau Du Sud-
    I find Eau de Sud perhaps more herbaceous and soapy; almost peppery, especially in the opening. It's lightly feminine on the skin which is something I absolutely adore. For that fact alone, I agree that Eau de Sud would make a lovely choice for those particularly humid days.
    Robin on her blog, Now Smell This, mentioned an interesting smokiness, being quite distinctive, which emerged quite prominently in the drydown. Although I had not noticed this initially, once reading her review and returning to this fragrance, I must agree. The smokiness disrupts the soapy sharpness, which ultimately smoothed out the scent considerably.
    I find some similarities between this fragrance and Chanel's Cristalle, although they are not complete replicates.
    The lasting power of Eau de Sud, in the eau de toilette concentration is pretty weak unfortunately. This is also one of Annick Goutals lighter fragrances that don't depend upon the wonderful sillage to create a beautiful aura. Eau de Sud is a fragrance for those that enjoy their soft, clean and crisp scents.

    Heure Exquise
    - Annick Goutal HEURE EXQUISE is such a complex and compelling creation, constructed of such high-quality components, that it could easily have come out of the house of Guerlain in the early twentieth century, back in the good old days, long before the devastating coup staged by industrial chemists and venture capitalists. Wow, I'm impressed.
    Unbelievably, HEURE EXQUISE actually lives up to its name. This exquisite chypre-like floral approaches the stratum occupied by the likes of MITSOUKO and ARPEGE. You won't find any sour, synthetic sandalwood here. Du vrai parfum, this is just stunning! Rose and iris mingle with a variety of unlisted chypre notes to produce an intoxicating composition with excellent longevity and big, beautiful sillage.

    Le Muguet-
    Le Muguet by Annick Goutal is one of those fragrances that I feel so-so about. Occasionally I catch a waft of it and enjoy its freshness, however most of the time I find it a little too strong.
    Le Muguet is most definitely fresh and bright on the skin, yet I find its greenness and touch of sugariness annoying. Perhaps it is the benzoin accord that makes this fragrance's opening so harsh and chemical. The heart turns the lily of the valley note, sweet, soapy and clean. It actually smells quite lovely on the skin, like you've just stepped out of the shower. I wouldn't call the sillage intimate at this stage, but it certainly isn't as loud as the top notes.
    I must admit that the bottle is really beautiful, with a striking aqua-marine ribbon. It caught my eye the moment I entered the store. I think this whole range has been re-released, hence the reason why this once discontinued fragrance has recently reappeared.
    The drydown is the best bit in my humble opinion. The lily of the valley is much smoother, with a light and delicate woodsy-ness cancelling out that somewhat sharp greenness. I may have enjoyed this fragrance more if the top notes were as good as the base notes. On a more positive note, this EDT lasts extremely well, which is rare for a Annick Goutal. I tentatively recommend Le Muguet for both spring and Summer, and urge people to muster up the courage to experience the drydown even if the top notes encourage you to scrub.

    Rose Absolue
    -Anyone who even considers a perfume with the name ROSE ABSOLUE, can hardly find fault with a composition comprising all and only roses all the time. That's what this Annick Goutal creation is. To be more precise: all rose petals, all the time. There are apparently six different varieties of rose present in this creation, so if you love roses, you'll probably be in heaven.
    What is not present is anything but rose petals! This is definitely not a rosebush-in-a-blender (no green elements) or a powdery or an oriental or a fruity rose. No. 'Rose' is the key word here. ROSE ABSOLUE may be the result literally of suspending rose absolute in the usual fragrance solvent suspects. This composition is less complex than Guerlain Aqua Allegoria ROSA MAGNIFICA, which contains aldehydes and some other "adulterants". It is also a lot less complex than Yves Rocher ROSE ABSOLUE, which also used this name, but arguably in error.

    Le Chevrefeuille-
    Le Chevrefeuille is an extremely green scent, almost bitter but lovely all the same.For those who aren't usually wearers of green fragrances, this may take a while to get acquainted with. Le Chevrefeuille is actually quite delicate and fresh. The honeysuckle, jasmine and narcissus gives this scent an unusual femininity while the petit grain creates an interesting grassy and herbaceous finish. The lemon is quite dominant alongside the honeysuckle, however this isn't sour citruses, it's more fresh and energizing, with a definite 'zing'.
    Oddly enough this fragrance is not sweet. It's rich and quite brash. I think there's a lot going on which makes it very complex for me.
    All in all this is a very luscious and happy fragrance which would wear wonderfully in Spring and Summer. The lasting strength is so-so in my opinion, not terrible but certainly not as lasting as other Annick Goutal's that I've tried. If it's possible to get Le Chevrefeuille in eau de parfum concentration then disregard the price tag because that would be your best option.

    Vanille Exquise-
    It never ceases to amaze me how many vanilla perfumes there are in existence--and that their number appears to be increasing nearly as fast as that of those boasting oud! I suppose that it should not be that surprising, given the ready availability of the substance, as evidenced by the volume of vanilla extract consumed in kitchens each year. The big surprise to me is that so many people should want to smell like vanilla extract!
    Vanilla used to be the signature back-drop to classic Guerlain perfumes, but all bets are off now post-Y2K. Since then, vanilla has stepped forward to claim an entire chunk of the grand olfactory map, and most every niche line-up has their equivalent to a vanilla-solifore. To say nothing of the huge group of sweet celebrity and designer vanilla-patchouli scents!
    Annick Goutal VANILLE EXQUISE offers the vanilla note in a less-sweet composition with a bit more wood than usual and a slightly Playdoh-ish quality, although I hasten to add that it is nowhere even close to Dior HYPNOTIC POISON, in part because it is so much thinner, with the viscosity of water. In any case, upon initial application, I was struck by the similarity of the woody quality to that of this house's jasmine perfume, which I did not like very much. Here the same base appears to be present, but it is not so strong as to overwhelm the vanilla. Of course, that would probably be pretty difficult to do, but the point is that vanilla and wood are equal partners in this perfume.
    The benzoin must be what accounts for what I perceive as a Playdoh quality. It is light and likeable, and overall this is a pretty nice vanilla perfume, as far as vanilla perfumes go. I am not that keen on such simple vanilla perfumes myself, but I'm sure that those who love to smell like wood-tinged vanilla extract will find lots to like here!

    La Violette
    - Annick Goutal's La Violette is quite a delightful take on a natural violet accord. It's a little greener than I expected, but still beautiful nonetheless.Spring comes to mind when I smell La Violette. It's fresh, watery and clean. I detect a hint of crushed mint in this composition, which is a little piercing and green in the opening. It soon settles into a soft, slightly candied violet, which is thankfully not powdery like most violet scents tend to be .It smells like something smelt from nature itself, like the feeling of inhaling fresh blooms. Annick Goutal's soliflores, while not overly complex or rich, really capture the essence of the flower itself. Although linear, La Violette is captivating from beginning to end.
    La Violette is an intriguing fragrance to say the least, and a surprisingly strong one at that. I applied this fragrance before bed, and a good 12 hours later I could still catch wafts of it every now and then. I wouldn't dare to wear this in the colder weather as it is such a cheerful and bright scent. All the soliflores from this collection were most likely designed with Spring in mind. La Violette is lovely in an unexpected and delicate kind of a way. It's very concentrated and quite expressive, and for that alone, La Violette is high on my list of recommendations for violet or floral lovers.

    Grand Amour
    - Love is in the air, Annick Goutal’s GRAND AMOUR, to be precise. I was looking for love in what was supposed to be an oriental perfume, but I found it instead in this voluptuous floral green.
    GRAND AMOUR opens big and flowery: dark jasmine, heavy lily and dewy honeysuckle mingle together initially, and as the composition settles down, green grassy hyacinth erupts in billowy clouds of sillage that keep traveling up my neck to my nose, as if to remind me over and over again that I really am wearing perfume, not just another frag. At long last, I finally understand the enthusiasm of so many AG fans. Very glad that I did not dismiss this line after three strikes, else I would have missed this.

    Eua D’ Hadrien
    - As I sprayed Eau d'Hadrien, I was immediately reminded of Eau du Sud and for a moment thought that a "switch" was made.Within a few minutes however, I could tell the difference in spite of not having smelled Eau du Sud for quite a while now. There's a light but noticeable cypress note that emerges quickly. It sets it apart from Eau du Sud.
    The opening of Eau d'Hadrien is a blast of slightly shimmering citrus. The grapefruit makes it a bit tangy and the lemon adds a tartness. The cypress note starts coming on after 2 or 3 minutes along with a floral component that I can't say I recognize as the listed ylang- ylang. I'm quite sure it's me and I've noticed that ylang-ylang seems to throw me off in spite of having smelled it countless times now. It goes well with the woody aspect and the citric accord hangs in there for a good amount of time.
    Personally, if I had to choose between Eau d'Hadrien and Eau du Sud, I'd choose the latter. Eau du Sud seems to have more depth, but Eau d'Hadrien smells a bit more realistic to me. Some have mentioned furniture polish in regards to the lemon rendition. I get no such correlation. If anything, Eau d'Hadrien is a very good and simplistic wear for the warmer months when you want citrus with a downplayed wood note. Yet another worthy Goutal is Eau d'Hadrien.

    Les Nuits D’Hadrien
    - This is not a citrus cologne, like its namesake, although the opening smacks unmistakably of EAU D'HADRIEN. From there, however, the two creations diverge quite radically. LES NUITS D'HADRIEN contains cypress, but it also contains juniper, basil, and caraway! And then there is the base which is rich enough to be an oriental perfume: amber, musk, patchouli and vanilla? In fact, it really smells nice at every stage of its development, even though it seems like three or even four different perfumes! This Citrus Oriental Aromatic Fougère sounds like a mess, but somehow it works!
    Sables- It's a little sharp at first, but Sables begins with a strong burst of pepper, woods and smoke. Although masculine, I thought it was a little too much, somewhere along the lines of the ruggedly masculine yet rich and bold like Yatagan by Caron. Thankfully Sables settles into a divine, sensual blend of woods, spice, caramel and burnt golden syrup. It's almost a gourmand for men with its distinctive deliciousness.I love how the burnt sugar accord doesn't make this fragrance feminine or too sweet. It's perfectly balanced and very sexy, something that I would never tire of smelling.
    The longevity and sillage are rather impressive, with this fragrance clinging to the skin for almost a whole 12 hours or more. I highly recommend.

    Eau de Charlotte
    - I don't think I could ever refer to Eau de Charlotte as being a gourmand. To my nose, this fragrance is more of a rich fruity floral rather than being particularly “foody”. Nevertheless, Eau de Charlotte is a lovely fragrance. It's a surprising scent to say the least. In the opening it's very juicy and intense, however in the drydown it becomes soft and powdery.
    Eau de Charlotte opens with sweet berries, which almost resemble the scent of home-made berry jam. Very delicious indeed. I began to predict that this fragrance would mellow slightly and end with a musky drydown, however, as I said before, Eau de Charlotte is surprising, you can't preempt how this fragrance will develop. In the heart, Eau de Charlotte became quite flowery and feminine. The combination of both mimosa and lily-of-the-valley is crisp and refreshing, bringing me to conclude that this would make an excellent Spring/Summer scent.
    The vanilla is pretty much all I can smell in the base notes.
    Overall, Eau de Charlotte is unusual, classy, relatively long-lasting, wearable and very enjoyable.

    Eau De Camille
    - Eau de Camille is a beautiful, delicate floral with green undertones. The greenness in this fragrance is neither harsh nor bitter. It's more of a subtle grassy-ness more than anything else. A very crisp and Summery scent. The jasmine and honeysuckle are really pretty. After an hour or so, the floral blend becomes quite clean and soapy, making it an excellent choice for those that enjoy their florals soft and refreshing.
    I was amazed at how well this fragrance lasted on the skin, especially for that of an EDT. I usually prefer the EDPs for longevity, however in this particular case the EDT suited me fine.
    If strong honeysuckle is what you're after I'd tend to lean more on Le Chevrefeuille for my honeysuckle fix, however for something lighter and prettier, Eau de Camille is perfection.

    Ce Soir
    Ou Jamais
    - The delicious rose note in this fragrance is almost dewy, being fresh and exotic in a very appealing sense. It is a tad 'antique inspired', however it does not seem so rich and ancient like it's big sister, Rose Absolue.Ce Soir ou Jamais has a rather youthful impression, which I feel is brought about by subtle fruity notes, like pear, that tends to linger softly in the heart. This fragrance is a little bit like Quel Amour!, yet perhaps not as Spring-like and fresh.
    I read a beautiful article on the” Perfume-Smellin' Things” blog, that portrayed Ce Soir ou Jamais as being in 3-D. I have to agree that this fragrance has the ability to bring a rose note to life.
    I have only experienced this fragrance in the EDT concentration, and from that I would say that the lasting power is quite good and the sillage light yet detectable.

    Folavril
    - The top notes consist of tomato leaf, fizzy citruses and sweet mango. When I say fizzy, I mean fizzy. The opening literally fizzed up my nose with an interesting sourness. It actually took some time for this fragrance to settle, but once it reached the heart, the sour accords were forgotten, making way for a light, delicate and feminine jasmine note. The floral blend is rather soapy and a touch sweet. It's an understated soapiness that's presented here, something not too bland, but clean enough to be fresh. I think you'd have to enjoy fresh green florals to like Folavril. It strikes me as being very green and natural, sort of garden-like on my skin.
    It's really the heart of green florals and that sweet mango that makes this fragrance so appealing. In all honesty the opening is perhaps a little too sharp for me. The sillage is so-so, and the longevity chops and changes as it pleases. Some days it lasts, some days it doesn't. I enjoy this fragrance for what it is, a clean, soapy floral with tropical and green undertones.

    Un Matin d'Orage- This fragrance is most likely going to appeal to those that enjoyed Songes and Le Jasmin. The dominant gardenia note, while crisp in the opening, especially when alongside the citrus, becomes creamier and buttery towards the heart. The gardenia and the other floral accords in this composition, smell very naturalistic. One can imagine an exact replicate of this scent in a luscious, spring garden. can sometimes be a little too one-dimensional, especially since it doesn't develop too well. The lasting power is also very fleeting which is another slight disappointment. In the drydown, it becomes increasingly soapy. Not to an extent that it's unlikable, however it does resemble a somewhat generic bar of sweet gardenia soap.
    While I do honestly like this fragrance, I would have aimed to improve it by making it longer lasting and perhaps more green.

    Gardenia Passion
    - Gardenia Passion smells natural and real to me. Almost perfection in a way. While Fracas is too buttery for my tastes, Gardenia Passion is like traipsing through a florist's shop and inhaling various floral aromas.
    Gardenia Passion is rich and powdery once settled. Believe it or not, this fragrance smells absolutely divine on smokers. Despite the belief that white florals smell like 'old ladies', Gardenia Passion does not fuel this idea and instead comes across as being very seductive and elegant on the skin. Despite its tendency to be rather strong, Gardenia Passion is never cloying. It has that real classic appeal, something that screams sophistication and femininity. I might also add that the lasting strength is impressive, especially for that of an EDT.

    Duel- Duel is a nicely done aromatic fragrance with hints of leather, citrus, tea and rich tobacco. It's subtly done, and is a wonderful choice for spring and summer wear. Annick Goutal tends to make rather bold orientals or sharp citrus scents, however Duel is not so 'in your face'. Although masculine, it's not strictly so, preferring to adopt a unisex feel, which is both elegant and unique. While I think Sables has more character, I like Duel's refreshing approach. It's clean and light but not in a boring aquatic or citrus after-shave sense of the word. It doesn't smell generic or for that matter, like anything you'd find the average man wearing. It's quite cozy and lovable. The tea note stands out the most for me, followed by smokey tobacco and subtle hints of lemon and lime. It can be quite linear at times, however I'm not too bothered with its lack of development. I enjoy the scent nonetheless.
    Perhaps its only disappointing aspect was its lack of lasting power and strong projection. I'm used to Annick Goutal's male fragrances being lasting and bold. In regards to price, Duel is rather cheap when compared to other fragrances from this house. It may be worth trying if your man, or even yourself, wouldn't feel cheated if the fragrance only lasted a few hours and required touch-ups during the day.

    Mandagore- Madragore starts out like a cold blast of citrusy eau de cologne. Bergamot is prominent to my nose, and the mint does not detract from the overall citrusy smell, but rather serves to provide the effect of green coolness. The citruses subside quite quickly, and the fragrance warms as the pepper and herbal notes come into play. Iris provides a soft powder that persists throughout the development of the perfume. The scent ultimately settles into a gentle green aromatic, with pepper and ginger providing a bit of a spicy kick. While the cool initial blast suggested to me that this was strictly a warm weather perfume, that effect is fleeting, and the drydown is warm enough for year round use. I personally would have preferred that the citruses stayed around longer, but that is a minor criticism. All in all, Madragore is a very lovely, restrained and elegant fragrance. I see it as a perfect office scent. I can't imagine this offending anyone, but it isn't a common scent that everyone wears either. Projection is medium and longevity medium to good. Absolutely unisex
    Last edited by southerngardens; 9th February 2013 at 12:46 PM.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

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